Bbonez said:

I don't think that theory works with clones grown under the same conditions, seeds maybe.

Question to the topic:

Those of you who count day 1 the day you flip(seems to make the most sense) does day 1 start when the lights turn on after the first 12 hours of darkness? Do you give your plants 12 hours of darkness or 12 hours of light 1st? This probably is dependent on the time(8pm-2PM for me) of your veg cycle and the time you want your lights on in flower.

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Mine get 12 light first then 12 dark on day 1. When the 12hr light comes on the second day-thats the start of day 2.

Mr.GreenthumbOG said:

Why beat the dead horse anymore?

the only reason growers need to understand the stages of development, or terminology assigned to these stages is to understand the nutritional and lighting requirements.

You wouldn’t feed your girls “week 1 veg food”
In the first week of the seedlings life. So for me veg begins when the feedings, and lighting requirements begin to climb.
Typically 10-20 days from seed drop.

Flowering begins when you flip the lights, or in an autoflower, when pre flowering begins.

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You can count however you want. But when most people ask how long you vegged, they are asking how old the plant was when you flipped-not how long since you started feeding. Lots of soil growers don't feed until into flower. I guess the kids today need every thing spelled out for them.

Kyleb said:

A lot of people when growing cannabis follow a specific set of rules it only applies to multiple sets of opinions put forth by previous growers. I was told that you start off with germination when it comes out of the soil you enter a seedling stage I continues this is with the cannabis plant that continues to the 6th to 8th note then when is when you could consider the plant to be in a vegetative stage growing vegetation more and a more frequent rate and developing secondary tissues secondary vascular tissues like branches and stuff usually happens around the 6

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There is so much more to focus on then this. How long are you going to go on. The guy asked 1 question. When does flower start. And you want to start the answer about seed germination.
That was not the question asked.
The answer is, for most people in the world flower starts on the day of flip. And instead of trying to show how smart you are. You could have them given some more important information then what you are carrying on about based on the question asked.

like how to tell when the flower is ripe. The percent of Amber trichomes vs cloudy ones. Or how the trichomes transition from clear to cloudy to amber. All of which would help him judge when his plant was ripe. Which is much more pertinent to the question asked then when exactly a plant is a seedling, or in vegetive state.

I took a 1 year course at a pilot station for Texas A&M in Horticulture, had to learn to spell Chrysanthemum. Learned how to build a greenhouse. Studied rice cultivation techniques, ect. After 4 years of Agriculture in High School. Research is your friend.

how do you tell with an autoflower that does no flipping? (asking because my autos are 4 weeks old tomorrow and it would be good to know so i can adjust things for flowering - move light, decrease humidity and such.)

Mr.GreenthumbOG said:

You wouldn’t feed your girls “week 1 veg food”
In the first week of the seedlings life. So for me veg begins when the feedings, and lighting requirements begin to climb.
Typically 10-20 days from seed drop.

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When my seedling breaks through the plug it gets transplanted and fed week #1 veg food always. Not sure what you meant by that.

Rootbound said:

When my seedling breaks through the plug it gets transplanted and fed week #1 veg food always. Not sure what you meant by that.

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It probably has a good root structure on it by then, and has more than cot leaves. That’s what I was getting at.

Rootbound said:

When my seedling breaks through the plug it gets transplanted and fed week #1 veg food always. Not sure what you meant by that.

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My seedings are planted into cocoloco and don't get feed until week 1 or 2 flower.. you can see the first set of leaves starting as soon as the pads open. That's day one. Pretty simple.

We’re all saying the same damn thing. Just don’t assign the same terminology, and that’s fine.
day one of the plant age, The day you pop the seeds.
day one of flower. The day you flip the lights.

growsince79 said:

My seedings are planted into cocoloco and don't get feed until week 1 or 2 flower.. you can see the first set of leaves starting as soon as the pads open. That's day one. Pretty simple.

Click to expand...

I am in inert promix and mine are like you said just the cotyledon starting to open with no roots yet and get transplanted and their first veg feeding.

lvstealth said:

how do you tell with an autoflower that does no flipping? (asking because my autos are 4 weeks old tomorrow and it would be good to know so i can adjust things for flowering - move light, decrease humidity and such.)

Click to expand...

its been said many times on here watch the resin heads they will change from clear to milky then amber you choose what % you want to be amber i go 10% . i have only grown autos out door and they did not need much , watch mr. canucks grow on you tube its a great channel lots of indoor organic auto grows.

not sure i understand, i thought the milky and amber heads were in the late stage, i am talking about the change from veg to flower. i watched canucks and others, but everyone skips over the "how to tell when to change over to flower in an auto. it stops at one video, then picks up with him saying how he changed the humidity and height of his lights due to flower stage... just never said when or how he knows. looks like i just have to do it then i will know how to do it. i just thought i could find someone who knew and would share it with me. for now, i am looking for pistils in the flower part, then i will change the light and the humidity for flower. i just thought since all here were in agreement, they might figure a way to tell a dummy like me when flower is in an auto, i am truly surprised it is different between the two.

lvstealth said:

not sure i understand, i thought the milky and amber heads were in the late stage, i am talking about the change from veg to flower. i watched canucks and others, but everyone skips over the "how to tell when to change over to flower in an auto. it stops at one video, then picks up with him saying how he changed the humidity and height of his lights due to flower stage... just never said when or how he knows. looks like i just have to do it then i will know how to do it. i just thought i could find someone who knew and would share it with me. for now, i am looking for pistils in the flower part, then i will change the light and the humidity for flower. i just thought since all here were in agreement, they might figure a way to tell a dummy like me when flower is in an auto, i am truly surprised it is different between the two.

Click to expand...

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Learn How To Grow Autoflowers: Week-By-Week Guide
Autoflowering strains provide fantastic results in little time, often surging from seed to harvest in as little as 8 weeks. Both beginner and advanced growers will have a fun and easy time raising these varieties.


997 58
7 May 2020
Learn to grow autoflowering cannabis.
Contents:

• 1. How long do autoflowers take from seed to harvest?
• 2. Light schedule for autoflowering strains
• 3. A note on pH
• 4. Autoflowering grow guide: How to grow autoflowers week by week
• 5. Which autoflower to choose?

Autoflowering cannabis plants are hardy, fast, and easy to cultivate in confined spaces. What’s not to love? Learn how to grow them week by week below.
HOW LONG DO AUTOFLOWERS TAKE FROM SEED TO HARVEST?
Autoflowering strains typically move from seed to harvest in 8–10 weeks. However, some varieties can take up to 12 weeks to fully mature. Strains such as Bubble Kush Automatic and Quick One fall towards the faster end of the spectrum, whereas varieties like Royal Creamatic and Royal Haze Automatic take a few more weeks to ready their buds for harvest.
Many growers elect to cultivate autoflowers because of their speedy growing rate. Their hardy genetics and forgiving nature also make them easier to grow and therefore more beginner-friendly.
Their impressive resistance to pathogens and pests allows them to withstand the challenges of outdoor growing.
However, their yields aren’t as spectacular as those obtained from photoperiod giants, but, the trade-off for brevity makes the decision worthwhile for most growers.


LIGHT SCHEDULE FOR AUTOFLOWERING STRAINS
As the name suggests, autoflowering strains don’t require a change in the light cycle to enter the flowering stage. Many growers choose to keep their autoflowers on a light schedule of 18 hours on and 6 hours off during the entire growing cycle. Other cultivators choose to keep their lights on around the clock in hopes of maximising photosynthesis and growth rate, however, this can get quite expensive.
Because of this unique trait, outdoor growers can achieve multiple harvests during a single growing season. By germinating seeds week after week in early spring, you can theoretically rake in your first harvest after ~8 weeks, with subsequent weekly harvests when growing fast strains.
A NOTE ON PH
The pH value of your soil will determine how well your plants can access the nutrients within. If the pH becomes too high (alkaline) or too low (acidic), nutrient lockout will occur and deficiencies will set in. Cannabis plants thrive in a soil pH of between 6.0 and 6.5. Use a pH tester to track pH throughout your grow.
AUTOFLOWERING GROW GUIDE: HOW TO GROW AUTOFLOWERS WEEK BY WEEK
Follow the fail-safe week-by-week grow guide below for a quick and easy route to harvest time. We cover all of the parameters and variables you need to consider—at the correct times—to ensure your plants remain healthy, vigorous, and productive.


WEEK 1: GERMINATION AND EARLY SEEDLING STAGE
Germination usually takes 1–3 days. During this time, your seeds will activate and send a root down into the soil and a shoot above the surface. To begin the germination process, you’ll need to prepare a suitable soil mix. Autoflowers don’t need as much nutrients as photoperiod varieties and prefer light and airy soil.
You can make your own potting mix using the following formula:

• 3 parts peat moss
• 3 parts compost
• 2 parts perlite, moistened
• 1 part vermiculite, moistened

After you’ve prepared the mix, add some Easy Boost Organic Nutrition to the blend. These pellets will slowly release adequate levels of nutrition into the soil, providing foundational elements and minerals for the entire growing cycle. Add some mycorrhiza to the soil to help your plants flourish later down the line. These symbiotic fungi will bind to the root system and help your plants uptake nutrients more effectively.
Next, poke a 10–15mm hole into a pot with your soil mix. Sow your seed directly into its final pot to avoid the stress of repotting later down the line. Transplanting causes plants to go into shock, and autoflowers grow so fast that they’ll struggle to recover. Place a seed in the hole and cover lightly with soil. You’ll see your seedling emerge in the next few days.
Environmental factors play a key role in optimal germination. Aim for the following to boost your success rate:

• 70–90% relative humidity (RH)
• 22–25°C air temperature

RELATED STORY

How Many Cannabis Plants Can You Grow Per Square Metre?

Click to expand...

WEEK 2: LATE SEEDLING STAGE
Your seedling has now emerged and the process of photosynthesis has started. A 250W LED light will provide enough power to fuel an indoor grow. Using this setup, you’ll be able to grow one large plant per square metre. However, if you use low-stress training, you’ll be able to cultivate four plants under a light of this power.
LEDs are energy-efficient, produce less heat, and allow users to switch between light spectrums. Switch your light to the blue setting during the vegetative phase and set the timer to meet your chosen light schedule.
Now you should start applying nutritional formulas specifically designed for the seedling and vegetative phases. Easy Grow Booster Tablets provide everything plants need to optimise vegetative growth, and complement Easy Boost Organic Nutrition perfectly. Because autos don't need as many nutrients as photoperiods, you'll only need to use ¼–½ of the normal dose. Simply add half a tablet into 3–5 litres of water and administer the solution twice per week.

WEEK 3: VEGETATION WELL UNDERWAY
Week 3 will consist of low-stress training and maintaining optimal conditions. At this point, your autoflower will be well into the vegetative phase. You’ll notice new fan leaves forming, which will ramp up photosynthesis. Aim for the following environmental factors during week 3:

• 50% RH
• 20°C air temperature
• 2x feed with Easy Grow (half a tablet per 3–5 litres of water)

Your plant will be around 15cm in height at this point. Reposition your light so it hangs around 1m from the tip of the canopy. This will allow for optimal photosynthesis without risking light stress. Your plant will be thirsty enough to drink around 0.5l of water each day. However, only water once the top layer of soil has dried out.
When growing indoors, apply low-stress training during week 3 to boost productivity during the flowering stage. Simply tie a piece of soft garden wire halfway up the main stem, then gently bend the stem parallel to the ground and secure it in position by attaching the other end of the wire to the rim of the pot. This will flatten the canopy and expose more bud sites to the light source.

RELATED STORY

The Growth or Veg phase

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WEEK 4: LATE VEGETATIVE PHASE
During week 4, your plant will be nearing the beginning of the flowering stage. This week will consist of making some minor training adjustments and gearing up for flowering. Aim for the following environmental conditions for optimal growth:

• 45% RH
• 20°C air temperature
• Light 70cm from the canopy
• 0.5l water per 24 hours
• 2x feed with Easy Grow (half a tablet per 3–5 litres of water)

You may start to notice some pre-flowers forming at the nodes on your plant. With the flowering phase right around the corner, you’ll need to finish off any training to avoid stressing your plant during bloom. Use garden ties to pin down any additional growth to flatten out the canopy and keep all future bud sites at the same level.

WEEK 5: FLOWERING BEGINS
Flowering has begun! During week 5, you’ll start to see small sacs topped with hairs emerging at the nodes. These will gradually turn into sticky and resinous buds. This week, you’ll want to continue dialling in environmental conditions and adjusting the lighting. Your plant will be roughly 30cm tall at this point. Aim for the following parameters if you’re growing indoors:

• 45% RH
• 23°C air temperature
• Light 65cm from the canopy
• 1l of water per 24 hours
• 2x feed with Easy Bloom (half a tablet per 3–5 litres of water)

Change the settings of your LED light from blue to red. This spectrum of light encourages the budding process and helps plants stretch and expand during the early flowering stage.
Your plants will require amendments to their nutrition during the flowering phase. Higher demands for phosphorus, potassium, calcium, and magnesium, and less need for nitrogen, calls for Easy Bloom Booster Tablets. Simply dissolve ½ a tablet into 3–5 litres of water and administer the mix when watering your plants.
RELATED STORY

The Flowering Stage Of Cannabis Week By Week

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WEEK 6: THINGS START TO SMELL
Flowers will be proliferating at each bud site now. You’ll notice your training start to pay off as the even canopy develops a consistent spread of evenly sized buds. During week 6, drop the humidity slightly to minimise the risk of mould. Aim for these parameters:

• 40% RH
• 24°C air temperature
• Light 45cm from the canopy
• 1.5l of water per 24 hours
• 3x feed with Easy Bloom (half a tablet per 3–5 litres of water)

Keep an eye out for any odd banana-like structures protruding from buds. This signals that your plant is hermaphroditic and attempting to pollinate itself. Remove these from the grow space to stop them from pollinating nearby plants. Thankfully, hermaphrodites are rare, but they are still worth looking out for.

WEEK 7: ROUTINE CHECKS ARE KEY
The goal of week seven: maintenance. Focus your time and energy on keeping the grow room in balance. Be especially cautious of letting humidity get too high, as this can cause mould issues. Conduct routine checks with a magnifying glass to search for pests like thrips and spider mites. Continue to check leaves for signs of nutrient deficiency (which would likely be due to pH issues). Aim to maintain the following conditions:

• 40% RH
• 24°C air temperature
• Light 45cm from the canopy
• 1.5l of water per 24 hours
• 3x feed with Easy Bloom (half a tablet per 3–5 litres of water)

RELATED STORY

Organic Cannabis Nutrients And Plant Cures

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WEEK 8: FLUSH AND DEFOLIATE
Your buds will be looking thick and resinous at this point. Most autoflowers will be ready to harvest soon. If your plant appears to be lagging, don’t worry! Simply treat it as though it is still in week 7 and proceed after the buds have gained more size.
Environmental conditions for week 8:

• 40% RH
• 25°C air temperature
• Light 45cm from the canopy
• 1.5l of water per 24 hours

At the start of week 8, you’ll want to start flushing your plant. First of all, stop feeding your plants Easy Bloom at this stage. Next, simply flood the soil with as much water as it can hold and wait for it to empty. Repeat this process several times over the next two weeks. Flushing removes excess nutrients and gives your buds a smooth taste.
Now, reach for your trimmers and start defoliating. This method works really well alongside low-stress training to further enhance yields. Cut away the small fan leaves from the lower nodes and the shabbier fan leaves near the top of the canopy. This will help increase light exposure and further reduce the risk of mould.

WEEK 9: THE FINISH LINE APPROACHES
You're almost there! Your hard work and dedication will pay off soon in the form of juicy, resinous buds. However, there are still a couple of jobs to tend to before this epic moment. You must strive to keep these environmental factors in balance to avoid any final infestations or other issues:

• 40% RH
• 25°C air temperature
• Light 45cm from the canopy
• 1.5l of water per 24 hours

You'll also notice the fan leaves start to become discoloured and even drop off. Don't be alarmed! This means that you've successfully flushed your plants and you're one step away from harvest time.
RELATED STORY

Top Tips To Successfully Dry And Cure Your Fresh Cannabis Buds

Click to expand...

WEEK 10: HARVEST!
Ready to reap the fruits of your labour? Many autoflowers will be ready to harvest during week 10! You will know your buds are ready to be snipped when the majority of trichomes are milky in colour and the pistils have taken on a reddish/brown hue.
If you notice that some of your buds are ripe and others aren’t, try a progressive harvest. You’ll most likely notice the buds closer to the top of the canopy finish first. Even if you trained your plant, some buds will naturally sit closer to the light than others.
Also, don't worry if your plant seems behind or ahead at this point in the timeline. Some autos grow faster than others. Slower-growing strains such as Amnesia Haze Automatic might need a bit more time to mature, whereas others might already be finished.
After harvesting your buds, start the drying and curing process to ensure a tasty, top-shelf stash.
WHICH AUTOFLOWER TO CHOOSE?
With so many choices out there, things can get confusing. Check out our 10 best autoflowers in each strain category below to make this decision much easier!
TOP AUTO STRAINS FOR DIFFERENT SCENARIOS

hope this helps

lvstealth said:

not sure i understand, i thought the milky and amber heads were in the late stage, i am talking about the change from veg to flower. i watched canucks and others, but everyone skips over the "how to tell when to change over to flower in an auto. it stops at one video, then picks up with him saying how he changed the humidity and height of his lights due to flower stage... just never said when or how he knows. looks like i just have to do it then i will know how to do it. i just thought i could find someone who knew and would share it with me. for now, i am looking for pistils in the flower part, then i will change the light and the humidity for flower. i just thought since all here were in agreement, they might figure a way to tell a dummy like me when flower is in an auto, i am truly surprised it is different between the two.
[/QUOT

Click to expand...

mine are 5 weeks old tomorrow, i should lower the light and change the humidity tomorrow?

that is what i see most places, and it seems iffy to me that a strain like i have that says less than 8 weeks would flower the same week as one that takes 12 weeks (i have both time frame seeds). i have 2 the same age and one is not like the other in size and look. so it is difficult to understand.

that is very confusing, it is saying the temp should be 68f, that seems cold and difficult to do in my house. and 45% rh. so if this is right i really messed them up! they have been 75f and 65 rh!

Who says 68? LOL Thats dumber than dumb. Makes about as much sense as counting veg from 6-8 nodes.

the post he so kindly found for me says that. its ^^^^ up there. the one that says 5 weeks

"
WEEK 3: VEGETATION WELL UNDERWAY
Week 3 will consist of low-stress training and maintaining optimal conditions. At this point, your autoflower will be well into the vegetative phase. You’ll notice new fan leaves forming, which will ramp up photosynthesis. Aim for the following environmental factors during week 3:

• 50% RH
• 20°C air temperature"

"
WEEK 4: LATE VEGETATIVE PHASE
During week 4, your plant will be nearing the beginning of the flowering stage. This week will consist of making some minor training adjustments and gearing up for flowering. Aim for the following environmental conditions for optimal growth:

• 45% RH
• 20°C air temperature"

20c that is 68f.

and if that is dumb, then is the rest?

Didn't realize you were doing autos. I don't do autos. But it sounds retarded as hell. My stuff grows best at 80. 75-77 in late flower. Wtf wants to smoke autos anyways?

lvstealth said:

the post he so kindly found for me says that. its ^^^^ up there. the one that says 5 weeks

"
WEEK 3: VEGETATION WELL UNDERWAY
Week 3 will consist of low-stress training and maintaining optimal conditions. At this point, your autoflower will be well into the vegetative phase. You’ll notice new fan leaves forming, which will ramp up photosynthesis. Aim for the following environmental factors during week 3:

• 50% RH
• 20°C air temperature"

"
WEEK 4: LATE VEGETATIVE PHASE
During week 4, your plant will be nearing the beginning of the flowering stage. This week will consist of making some minor training adjustments and gearing up for flowering. Aim for the following environmental conditions for optimal growth:

• 45% RH
• 20°C air temperature"

20c that is 68f.

and if that is dumb, then is the rest?

Click to expand...

they are a colder climate plant i guess not like sativa and Indica

growsince79 said:

Didn't realize you were doing autos. I don't do autos. But it sounds retarded as hell. My stuff grows best at 80. 75-77 in late flower. Wtf wants to smoke autos anyways?

Click to expand...

LoL, I'm thinking it is not accurate. I'm not dropping the temp.

Is there a difference in how autos smoke? I'm sure I will enjoy it, but that's due to growing it myself.

Lots of "dumb" things out there, it's a path one has to navigate, figure out the dumb from the rest. Too bad too. But it is what it is. I try to read it all, filter as needed and do as I can. Being disabled, I have to adapt most things anyway.