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costa
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If your problem is getting worked out by your current practices. ..i wouldnt worry about the GENERALLY lower overall iron in Cannas nute lineup. If it was a drastic concurrent problem iam sure the forums would be all over it. Canna nutes still sell..and sell well...which means they work.Little update . The plants are now back to normal , color is normal , except for new budsites , which are a bit paler . Won't take long before they green up as well . Sorry for the lack of pics . I honestly don't know how to do it . Ph is 5.8 - 5.9 ish ,,, @ Pimples , how can I deal with the iron issue ? Has canna got a product re. this ? I am following canna's feed program formulated especially for my situation . They work it out from a tap water @ 200 ppm , hence me using epsom and mono cal. to add to the 30 ppm on my RO water . Anyway , they are praying again and sips 2 l every 36 hours in 8 l of coco . I'm hoping for a ' peaceful run home ' ,,,, lol
Your tap (0.3 ec right? ) with about a tsp (5ml) of calmag puts you at what ec before adding canna a &b to final pot transplants? What amount (tsp or ml) of a & b ? What is final ec even after pH adjusting if any? What is final pH of transplant solution? I ask these questions because I too get the purple stems (its NOT NORMAL PURPLE) and yellow (ish) leaves on SOME strains of cannabis. This is with my 0.2 ec tap and 8 to 10 ml. of Canna A & B .... pH down added (its about 6.5 ish after nutes before ph down) to final about 6.0. Some strains are funky for the first week of final pot transplant (2 or 3 gallon geo pots and smart pots). But some dont right along side them. My knock off Blue Dream gets the funk (yall know what iam talking about). The Santa Cruz cut of Dream (more sativa. ...way more) looks fine and takes off immediately after transplanting. With roots popping out the pot bottoms within days. The funky purple and yellowish leaves just sag and are sad looking on some of my strains. Takes forever to dry out the coco coir. They are slow. But iam relentless with the Canna feeds and they come around after a week or so of Canna A & B ( 8 to 10 ml of each - 1.2 to 1.4 ec TOTAL) with no calmag extra (just 0.2 tap).Very interesting thread and one where I will like to share my experiences…
Canna Coco base on my numerous experiments requires the addition of a Cal/Mag product to avoid possible Cal or mag deficiencies. This is a standard practice among growers in my area. I am not sure if the deficiency is due to Cal or Mag or the fact that many of the growers are using other substrate besides the Coco sold by Canna. I have experience the deficiencies every single time and it reflects on the plant two days after transplanting and feeding with Canna A-B without CalMag.
When I contacted Canna about the issue I was told that if the grower utilizes a coco substrates that is not made by Canna they can’t warrantee the efficiency of their nutrient line.
My intent is not to blame Canna for this issue but rather find the source of the problem.
This can very well be a result of the substrate, Nutrient ratios or minerals in the water.
I have experimented with 100% RO water, 50/50 RO to Tap water (tap water 150ppm), 100% tap water and plans till always show deficiencies unless Cal Mag at the rate of 3 to 7 Mil per gallon.
I will be interested in posting a part of the standard formula for canna to see if you guys can identified a possible issues with the ratios… I am not well-verse in the matter of ratios and I will like to hear your opinions….
Please read mu edited post. We have similar start waters.Not sure I will have to test it... My tap water is generally very low at 150 ppm .03 ec...... Give me 5 minutes and I will give you results.....
As I'm trying to decipher their nutrients and reasoning, I keep reminding myself that people have great results running just the base nutrients, Part A and B.
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