White Edges--Help Identifying Please

[pRiMo303]

I Googled and searched the forums here prior to posting, but after not finding my answer and the fact Im going to be out all day house hunting, I wanted to post to see if anyone had insight and could assist. Before I fill out the sheet, a lil info.. I watered on 3/22. It was a mix of 2 tsp microbe brew, 1.5 tsp blackstrap, 1mL rapid start, and 5mL hygrozyme--per gallon. In addition, I had about a qt leftover from last feeding, which was stored in fridge, which was about 150ppm FNG, 1 tsp (/gal) Caps foliar pack, and some molasses. The leftover nute was mixed w 5 gallons, so were talking less than 30 ppm. Now, something worth nothing that may have caused this (though the other 2 plants are not exhibiting the white edges)--mixed 48 hrs in advance (no airstone), and when I checked the pH prior to watering it was like 5.2. My target pH was 6.3, and I had to add a shit load of up to get it 6.3. I rarely need to use pH up, mostly just down. With pH down it generally takes me 3-5 drops to get a gallon to move a point on the scale. I was having to add ~20 drops to get a gallon to shift a point, so when I say a shit load, I am not exagerating. But as I said, my Bruce Banner is the only one showing this. Seems to be just on the upper older leaves, but not the new growth or anything low. They are under 4' 8 tube HO T5. Temps stay below 80..havent sprayed w anything. Now the info..

HYDROPONICS/Aero Ponics/Coco/Soiless/

How long has this problem been going on? WATERED 3/22, WAS LOOKING GOOD 23, AND NOW THIS MORNING (3/24) NOT LOOKING GOOD.

Are you growing in a PVC grow tent? (example: Hydrohut or any other non brand tents) NO

What system are you running? (DWC? Ebb flow? Aero? Water Farm? Flood Tables? and so on...) HAND WATER IN 5 GALS SUNSHINE 4 AGGREGATE

What STRAIN are you growing? BRUCE BANNER 3 IS THE ONE SHOWING
What was the establishing technique? (Were the seed or clone?) CLONE

What is the age of your plants? 6 WEEKS OR MORE? DONT REMEMBER THE EXACT DATE THEY ROOTED..MAYBE 8?

How long have they been in there mixture they are in now?(coco,soiless etc..) THE ENTIRE TIME..I DIDNT AMMEND THE SOIL W ANYTHING THIS CROP.
How tall are the plants? ~10"

What PHASE are the plants in? (seedling, vegetative or flower) are the plants in? VEGGIE

What Technique are you using? SHE HAS BEEN TOPPED AND SUPER CROPPED..ALL HAVE--SOME TIED DOWN TOO, BUT NOT THE ONE PICTURED.

What substrate/medium are you using?(Hydroton, RockWool etc.) SS 4 AGGREGATE

What is the Water temperature? NO RESV..HAND WATER W ROOM TEMP WATER.

What color are your roots? White? Brown? Are your roots slimy? THEY WERE HEALTHY WERE I TRANSPLANTED. SOIL IS WET RIGHT NOW, SO I CANT POP IT OUT.

What Nutrient's are you using?(If growing soiless)
How much of each nutrient are you using with how much water? *Knowing the brand is very helpful* FLORA NOVA GROW. WHEN I TRANSPLANTED I WATERED IN AT 150PPM (SEE ABOVE PARAGRAPH). AND ON THE MOST RECENT WATERING (2 DAYS PRIOR TO THE ISSUE) IT WAS JUST A BENNIE TEA W SOME ROOT ENHANCERS AND ENZYMES. I DID ADD SOME LEFTOVER NUTE AND CAPS FOLIAR FROM PREV FEEDING, BUT A QUART OF 150PPM ADDED TO 5 GAL WATER IS NOTHING.

How often are you feeding? (If using soiless) EVERY OTHER TILL I GET THEM BUILT UP, THEN IT WILL BE UNDER 1/3 STRENGTH EVERY WATERING. AT THE MOMENT, EVERY OTHER, THOUGH.

How often are you giving nutrients? (If using soiless) ISNT THAT THE SAME QUESTION AS THE PREVIOUS?

If flowering, when did you switch over to using Bloom nutrients? N/A
What order are you mixing your nutrients? (example: veg nutes 1st, bloom 2nd ect) I USE 1 PART NUTE.

What is the TDS/EC/PPM you are using 150PPM WAS THE MOST RECENT--OR LESS 25PPM IF YOU WANNA BE TECH.

What is the pH of the "Tank"? N/A

How often are you testing your pH/PPM/EC/TDS? AT EVERY FEED/WATER

Are you sure your calibration is correct on your equipment? YES. CALIBRATE PRIOR TO EVERY USE PRACTICALLY. IM SUPER ANAL--NO HOMO.

When was your last watering? 3/22..TODAY IS THE 24TH

What is your water temps? ROOM TEMP

When was your last feeding change? (ie. grow-bloom-micro-additional) HOW HIGH WAS THE PERSON WHO WROTE THESE QUESTIONS? I ANSWERED THIS. WHEN I TRANSPLATED. I DID 150PPM ON OR AROUND 3/15? IDK, I LET EM GET REAL DRY.

How often do you clean your system: example: Flush out water replace with clean water and nutrients? N/A

What size bulb are you using? SUNBLAZE 48 HO T5 6500 K TUBES

How old is the bulbs you are using? NOT SURE. GOT FIXTURE W BULBS USED. THIS IS MY FIRST RUN VEGGING W IT.

What is the distance to the canopy? ~6"

What is your RH Factor(Relative Humidity)? 20%. I LIVE IN COLORADO, AND MY FRESH AIR EXCHANGE IS SO MUCH THERE ISNT MUCH I CAN DO TO RAISE IT.

What is the canopy temperature? 80F

What is the Day/Night Temp? (Include flucutaion range) 24/7..ITS ALWAYS DAY.

What is the current Air Flow? (cfm etc.) THERES A DUCT BOOSTER EXHAUSTING OUT THE FALSE ROOF IN MY CLOSET. I LIVE IN A STUDIO STYLE APT AND SOME WALLS DONT GO ALL THE WAY TO CEILING. FITTED CLOSET W SHEET OF FOAM INSULATION AND PORTED HOLES. ALSO HAVE A DUCT BOOSTER ON MY INTAKE WHICH DUMPS RIGHT BEHIND MY CIRCULATION FAN,

Tell us about your ventilation, intake exhaust and when its running and not running ? RUNS 24/7.
Is the fan blowing directly at plants? YES, MY CLOSET ISNT LARGE ENOUGH TO ALLOW IT TO OSCILLATE. BUT THE PLANT IN QUESTION HAS 3 PLANTS BETWEEN IT AND THE FAN (THERE ARE 2 STAGGERED ROWS).

Is your water HARD or SOFT? ITS ON THE HARDER SIDE (DENVER)

What water are you using? Reverse Osmosis (RO)? Tap? Bottled? Well water? Distilled? Mineral Water? 24 HR + TAP

If using tap water, what is the ppm/EC/TDS of the water right out of the tap? AFTER SITTING, ~160

If using RO,Distilled,mineral water, what is the ppm/EC/TDS without any additives? N/A

Are you using water from a water softener? NOPE

Has plant been recently pruned, cloned off of or pinched IT WAS TOPPED ~3 WEEKS AGO..MAYBE 4?
Have any pest chemicals been used? If so, What and When? NO. I HAD AN ISSUE WITH THE BALE BEING INFESTED W ROOT APHIDS AND GNATS ON THE LAST CROP, BUT PRETREATED/INOCULATED THE MEDIUM W CAP'S FOLIAR PACK THIS TIME. NO BUGS. NUT TO ANSWER THE Q, NO, NO PEST CHEMS.

Are plant's infected with pest's NEGATIVE

 

[mig1]

It seems like its a magnesium deficiency. It also causes your stem to turn purple, and I noticed that in one of your pics. For fastest action Epsom salts can be used. You could buy a bag of Epsom salt at any drug store.

 

[pRiMo303]

I appreciate your input, and not trying to deny it either, but by using blackstrap and 24 hr tap water (both are sources of Mg), do you still think a Mg def?? Plus, the other 4 arent displaying the white, and although all 4 arent the same, the one that is (Bruce Banner #3--OGxStrawberry D) has some of the same genetic make up..707 HB=OGxMASTERxSOUR, BANNER=OGXSTRAWBERRY, AND Chemdog #4 (PREDECESSOR OF DIESLEL STRAINS). So, seems like they should be on or close to the same page.. Still think Mg def??

 

[Budzillah]

Use a calcium, magnesium, iron supplement. Botanicare has Cal-mag. Technaflora has MagiCal. Use 5ml/gal every watering. You will never have a cal/mag/iron deficiency using these

 

[Budzillah]

Looks like a nutrient deficiency to me. Ovetwatering can cause a nutrient lock out or over fertilizing. I would suggest getting a fertilizer that is complete and made for Cannabis. Advanced Nutrients (expensive), Pure Blend Pro, Technaflora, Humbolt. Stay away from General Hydro, Fox Farm. They have high phosphorous in their flowering formula. Cannabis wants potassium in flower with a little phosphorous. Veges want opposite.

 

[pRiMo303]

Definitely not over watering or over feeding. As I stated in the troubleshooter, I let my pots get DRY (they weigh nothing)between feed/waterings. And when I transplanted I watered in at 150 w bennies..def not overfeeding either and the bennies help
w the uptake of food. I could very possibly be under feeding, but as Ive never run these before Im still trying to get a feel for them. Do you mind me asking where youre from, Budzillah? I have some frends that do grow consulting in Denver and they say there is no need for CalMg in Denver unless youre using RO.

 

[Budzillah]

Im here in WA. I have well water that is around 100ppm. I bring it up to250-300ppm with Calmag from Botanicare. Water that is more than 200ppm would get

 

[pRiMo303]

And Im not trying to put down what works for you, but I would never buy "cannabis specific" nutes. Thats just silly to me..Kushie kush? Youve got to be kidding me. Like AN stumbled on the secret to growing cannabis. How did we ever grow it wo these companies?I have better things to spend money on (ie, Capulator) that are gonna bennefit my crop, then some bs thats "specifically designed" for cannabis. Obviously my shit isnt dialed in atm, but you def dont need the canna specific stuff.
Idk much about the well water thing, but 24 hr tap water in Denver does not require CalMg from what I understand. Oh, and when I said 150 I just meant the nutes. Im 160 at the tap, so 310ppm to be specific.

 

[Budzillah]

an RO filter.^ I used General Hydro for years and did good. When I switched to Botanicare and Technaflora products and have done really good. Advanced Nutrients is to rich for my blood. Its all about finding what a plant wants and giving it that. Hopefully my advice helps? Good luck.

 

[pRiMo303]

. Its all about finding what a plant wants and giving it that.

No doubt, thats exactly what its all about. I appreciate your input for sure. Sorry if I came off unappreciative. Once I burn through this FloraNova Im making the switch to organics and start brewing teas.

 

[M.S.T.]

I appreciate your input, and not trying to deny it either, but by using blackstrap and 24 hr tap water (both are sources of Mg), do you still think a Mg def?? Plus, the other 4 arent displaying the white, and although all 4 arent the same, the one that is (Bruce Banner #3--OGxStrawberry D) has some of the same genetic make up..707 HB=OGxMASTERxSOUR, BANNER=OGXSTRAWBERRY, AND Chemdog #4 (PREDECESSOR OF DIESLEL STRAINS). So, seems like they should be on or close to the same page.. Still think Mg def??

Not saying this is the prob, and I'm sure someone else may elaborate on this. Sometimes the molecules of cal/mag in tap water are larger and harder for the plant to uptake, maybe even jamming ways and locking things up. That is why many use ro water even if their tap is fine. The cal/mg that you add back to the water is more refined and easier to uptake. Just had a similar issue and I use tap water also, but mine comes out of tap at 70ppm and now I add cal/mg until it's at 150ppm. Just some more insight. Hope helps and good luck. If you are going to flower soon I wouldn't worry too much. Looks early and you seem to be on top of it. If you are super worried, flush and fresh nutes.

 

[Budzillah]

We just here to try and help each other. I didnt take offense to anything you wrote. Peace and be well.^

 

[Budzillah]

This is proof in the pudding. I use a good organic dirt and keep my ppm at 250-300 with calmag. Always add 5 ml/gal. I only have to start using nutrients two weeks into flower.

 

[Budzillah]

A few more pics from my current grow.

 

[pRiMo303]

Those little girls look lush and healthy, BudZ. My grow doesnt seem to be in my sig since the update, but heres a link to my previous grow.
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...sh-lambsbreath-ray-charles.44045/#post-769269

 

[Budzillah]

They look nice! After seeing those pics and reading the above thread has lead me to believe you are not applying enough or strong enough nutrients. Easy fix! Heres a pic of my meter. This is what my numbers are after adding Calmag and before I add a complete fertlizer.

 

[Budzillah]

^

 

[Seamaiden]

That is not a Mg- to my eyes. I would have preferred to be able to see the entire plant along with close-ups, because that helps gauge overall appearance as well as telling me where on the plant you're seeing these white edges.

In any event, what I see is a slight P- (phosphorous deficiency) and a Ca-, just beginning, if the leaves where you're seeing the white edges are newer leaves.

You can tease apart the Ca and Mg issues by using them only as foliar applications. Unfortunately with Ca, you won't see correction of issues, only alleviation of progression. But Mg is decidedly different, you can see a difference in 24 hours IF there's a problem with Mg uptake or utilization.

P is more problematic, can't be foliared to the best of my knowledge (if it can, I just learned something new, hell, maybe it's worth a try with a very red-petioled plant, eh?), but is mobile and so can be used to alleviate symptoms and results should be seen very quickly. The reddened petioles are the tell for the P problem.

Not saying this is the prob, and I'm sure someone else may elaborate on this. Sometimes the molecules of cal/mag in tap water are larger and harder for the plant to uptake, maybe even jamming ways and locking things up. That is why many use ro water even if their tap is fine. The cal/mg that you add back to the water is more refined and easier to uptake. Just had a similar issue and I use tap water also, but mine comes out of tap at 70ppm and now I add cal/mg until it's at 150ppm. Just some more insight. Hope helps and good luck. If you are going to flower soon I wouldn't worry too much. Looks early and you seem to be on top of it. If you are super worried, flush and fresh nutes.

It's difficult to rely on CaCO3 and MgCO3 (calcium and magnesium carbonate, respectively) to be the sources of those elements for plants.

 

[pRiMo303]

They look nice! After seeing those pics and reading the above thread has lead me to believe you are not applying enough or strong enough nutrients. Easy fix! Heres a pic of my meter. This is what my numbers are after adding Calmag and before I add a complete fertlizer.

On my last/first real grow I over fed, trying to get a feel for them, prior to flipping my lights and ended up setting me back a little. On the new grow, I have a separate veg closet set up w a SunBlaze 48 HO T5. Last grow I vegged in what is now the flower room under a 1000mh. I read somewhere that nutes have to be worked up to a little slower under fluorescents as opposed to HID. Im probably being over cautious and working up a little too slowly.