White Residue Left After Foliar

[stonestacker]

Hi all, So I like the root & foliar paks. I use them as drench mostly. The times I've used them as foliar anyone that sees it automatically say pm. I'm just a nob, will I be able to tell the difference ? If I make the tea will it not leave the white residue ?
Yesterday morning I found pm in my veg. My bad lazy ass. I believe it was caused by a spike in rh and lack of air movement. Added dehumidifier better fan placement and sprayed,drenched with green cure top and bottom of leafs. moped floor and wiped walls down with bleach @ 3/4 cup to the gallon.
Want to spray foliar today. What do you all think?

Thanks Stonestacker.

 

[shawnskush]

The residue in the foliar is from the talc and I think @Capulator has a thread about his teas and products where he discusses skimming out the talc. PM is systemic and once plants are infected it is really difficult to eradicate completely without nuking your plants with some serious chemicals, everything else is just keeping it in check. If you have an unaffected mother area I would scrap and scrub the veg and start over with uninfected clones personally. Good luck whatever route you choose.

 

[stonestacker]

The residue in the foliar is from the talc and I think @Capulator has a thread about his teas and products where he discusses skimming out the talc. PM is systemic and once plants are infected it is really difficult to eradicate completely without nuking your plants with some serious chemicals, everything else is just keeping it in check. If you have an unaffected mother area I would scrap and scrub the veg and start over with uninfected clones personally. Good luck whatever route you choose.

Unfortunately the only thing in veg right now is my mothers. I need to cut clones in 7 days.

 

[shawnskush]

That really blows my friend..I would cut my clones then hit the moms with some serious chems so they have a couple months to process it out. The clones you send into flower you are gonna have to watch like a hawk and make sure all your conditions stay in check to prevent flare ups. Keeping the plants healthy as can be and hit with bennies may get you thru flower without any ill effects.

 

[stonestacker]

That really blows my friend..I would cut my clones then hit the moms with some serious chems so they have a couple months to process it out. The clones you send into flower you are gonna have to watch like a hawk and make sure all your conditions stay in check to prevent flare ups. Keeping the plants healthy as can be and hit with bennies may get you thru flower without any ill effects.

Why not hit with serious chems then cut clones? they would still have 3 months before harvest. And what do you use for the systemic cure?

 

[shawnskush]

Because you want 6-8 months for the chems to process out. Many people recommend eagle 20 but I would steer you towards Oxidate if you can get it. Oxidate will completely eradicate it but you'll need to clean your room very well and maybe start using some preventatives afterwards such as Sonata. Better airflow also always helps.

 

[oldirtybastard]

I wouldn't hit them with any Chems, they're not needed IME if you catch it early.. Caps foliar will take care of the pm if not soap and water will Evan take care of it.. Green Care also.. PM has been fairly easy to take care of IME.. Just have to get on it asap and spray weakly... Hope this helps... ~ODB~

 

[Capulator]

and http://serenadegarden.com/wp-content/themes/serenade_garden/labels-msds/con-label.pdf


I am pretty sure that both actives in these products are in the foliar pack. ;)

Weekly use of compost tea with root and foliar packs will be very helpful in preventing and dealing with most types of environmental stress/pathogens/baddies.. :blackalien:

Even letting the talc settle out after mixing, you will still get some spotting. It's hard to avoid. Using yucca extract as a spreader sticker is an excellent idea for uniform coverage and less spotting. Applying when RH is high (usually night time) is best.

Happy gardening,

Cap

 

[Seamaiden]

Hi all, So I like the root & foliar paks. I use them as drench mostly. The times I've used them as foliar anyone that sees it automatically say pm. I'm just a nob, will I be able to tell the difference ? If I make the tea will it not leave the white residue ?
Yesterday morning I found pm in my veg. My bad lazy ass. I believe it was caused by a spike in rh and lack of air movement. Added dehumidifier better fan placement and sprayed,drenched with green cure top and bottom of leafs. moped floor and wiped walls down with bleach @ 3/4 cup to the gallon.
Want to spray foliar today. What do you all think?

Thanks Stonestacker.

All you're seeing are the fruiting bodies. If you haven't dealt with PM before you should know that after the fruiting bodies die, the leaf tissue underneath dies, so just be aware of that and don't let it bother you. PM can be washed off, the fruiting bodies, which are really the reproductive units of the fungus, don't tolerate certain things well, for example water of a high pH, say around 9 or 10. This can be achieved with baking soda. Or, burning or vaporizing sulfur. Milk used at a ratio of 1 part milk to 10 parts water will control PM, but you will be left with a residue as well there. Powdered milk can even be used. I don't think any of these treatments will kill the beneficials you're inoculating, either, but I know that OxiDate, unfortunately, will. It's also very caustic until it's dissipated and dried, so you have to be very careful to use the proper gear when applying it, which is why I tend to go the other routes first. There's also a product called JMS Stylet oil that acts as a physical barrier, that's a good part of IPM for both PM and spider mites.

 

[stonestacker]

All you're seeing are the fruiting bodies. If you haven't dealt with PM before you should know that after the fruiting bodies die, the leaf tissue underneath dies, so just be aware of that and don't let it bother you. PM can be washed off, the fruiting bodies, which are really the reproductive units of the fungus, don't tolerate certain things well, for example water of a high pH, say around 9 or 10. This can be achieved with baking soda. Or, burning or vaporizing sulfur. Milk used at a ratio of 1 part milk to 10 parts water will control PM, but you will be left with a residue as well there. Powdered milk can even be used. I don't think any of these treatments will kill the beneficials you're inoculating, either, but I know that OxiDate, unfortunately, will. It's also very caustic until it's dissipated and dried, so you have to be very careful to use the proper gear when applying it, which is why I tend to go the other routes first. There's also a product called JMS Stylet oil that acts as a physical barrier, that's a good part of IPM for both PM and spider mites.

Thanks, Sea I was starting to freak thing don't look to health this morning.

Because you want 6-8 months for the chems to process out. Many people recommend eagle 20 but I would steer you towards Oxidate if you can get it. Oxidate will completely eradicate it but you'll need to clean your room very well and maybe start using some preventatives afterwards such as Sonata. Better airflow also always helps.

Thanks for the replies. I have friends ( believe it or not ) That swear everything is out in two months. I like the 6-8 better, my wife, son, and a lot of friends use these meds. Besides I don't have the proper PPE for this application. I have a beard I would have to shave to get a proper seal with full face mask. The bride would have a cow if I did that.

and http://serenadegarden.com/wp-content/themes/serenade_garden/labels-msds/con-label.pdf


I am pretty sure that both actives in these products are in the foliar pack. ;)

Weekly use of compost tea with root and foliar packs will be very helpful in preventing and dealing with most types of environmental stress/pathogens/baddies.. :blackalien:

Even letting the talc settle out after mixing, you will still get some spotting. It's hard to avoid. Using yucca extract as a spreader sticker is an excellent idea for uniform coverage and less spotting. Applying when RH is high (usually night time) is best.

Happy gardening

Thanks,Cap. I'm lazy and a sterile freak in the garden. It's too easy to just mix foliar and root let set and drench. Ok I'll start making tea and get som Yucca extract.

 

[stonestacker]

I can be so dumb sometimes. When you make tea the blackstrap molasses, worm casting, and alfalfa meal turns it brown (duh) don't look like PM now ma.

I found just a littel PM in flower last night. So I was going to burn sulph, now I'm just going to use Cap's foliar and root pack. Spray, in the reservoir, and top feed. I think this weekly regiment will be my best and safest plan of attack. I will be keeping a close watch on all my rooms. What sucks is getting up @ 5 am to spray the flower room just before lights out.

Thank all for the sound advice. Stonestacker

 

[Capulator]

I can be so dumb sometimes. When you make tea the blackstrap molasses, worm casting, and alfalfa meal turns it brown (duh) don't look like PM now ma.

I found just a littel PM in flower last night. So I was going to burn sulph, now I'm just going to use Cap's foliar and root pack. Spray, in the reservoir, and top feed. I think this weekly regiment will be my best and safest plan of attack. I will be keeping a close watch on all my rooms. What sucks is getting up @ 5 am to spray the flower room just before lights out.

Thank all for the sound advice. Stonestacker

It is great to use yucca extract as a spreader sticker as the talc residue will collect on the leaf margins instead of showing up as spots.

 

[stonestacker]

It is great to use yucca extract as a spreader sticker as the talc residue will collect on the leaf margins instead of showing up as spots.

I noticed that yesterday.

 

[Smokeyjojackson]

I have dealt with what is probably the worst case of PM I have ever seen including on the internet.

I had about 30 girls and left a helper in charge. I came home to a room that looked as if someone had sprinkled powdered sugar all over every fan leaf in the room. It looked like it had been snowing... That crop was ruined and the room was completely contaminated.

What you seek is a sulphur burner.

I killed it dead at that location by burning sulphur 2-3 times for something like 4 hours at a time then evacuating the rooms air before entering.
I had another issue in a new room I built that was having huge RH swings. Sulphur burned once (caught it early) solved the RH issue and it never came back. I like to burn when the room is empty between runs to keep the room itself clean.

That was my experience with PM and sulphur burners.

I used Dr Bronner's as a surfacant with the foliar pack and still noticed some spotting.