crimsonecho
Self-Proclaimed Don Quixote
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I like that approach. It’s hard to say how much a plant needs since there are so many variables with enviornment but increasing the food little by little until you hit the sweet spot is part of the learning curve when it comes to soilless/hydro type mediums. It’s a much safer idea than bombarding them with a strong feed.
Yup. With fertile balanced organic soil you don’t really need to check pH or add additional nutrients. However I believe in MissBotany’s case the “soil” that was used isn’t truly soil but actually what is called a soilless medium. It’s ment to be flexible. It’s up to the gardener to amend it into a soil or to use it as a hybrid hydro medium. I really dislike how some companys label bags of perlite and peat as soil just because they added earth worm castings. It’s just not enough diversity to be true living soil by itself IMO.
After after feeding, new and existing growth does fine then after a few days the issue appears. I rotated the plants because it appears the leaves that receive the highest light intensity are showing the defecieny/excess.
Increased rate of photosynthesis = increased nutrient uptake which could either mean they are getting too many nutrients or not enough. If the leaves that are now receiving the highest PAR become effected then I’ll know it’s because the lights are too close, again. However, I can’t raise the lights up any higher. I’ll have to get them moved into my other tent (which is occupied for another week or two).
Here’s a picture after I rotated the pots. The damaged leaves are now receiving lower intensity light and the healthy leaves are now in the highest PAR “footprint,” receiving the most intense light.
All good advice!
I think I have a couple of issues going on with light intensity and nutrients/soil.
Here’s the Rx for my sickly plants:
Feed 1 tsp of each gro, micro, flora per gallon each watering, as needed. Adjust pH to 6.8. If needed, increase nutrient strength after one week.
Move light up as high as possible (I have 4” to work with). In the mean time, I moved all plants as far away as possible from the center of the tent to avoid the high intensity light.
Also, after 8 hours of rotating the pots, look what popped up on my previously healthy leaf!
Yes I too prefer to amend my soil grows so that only water is necessary. Makes things much easier with organics.Agreed. It is real easy to ammend the soil tho and just let it do its thing without the hassle of phing and adjusting correct amount of nutes and so on.
But as i said if you are phing you should do it at 6.8, imo it will be better for your plants. When you do 6.5, as the organic material decomposes it becomes acidic and at 6.4 P is not available for the plant according to the chart i posted above.
I like that nutrient plan. They seem to be pretty happy with N so if you see them get any greener or the leaves start to claw down you will know to reduce the grow and/or micro a bit.All good advice!
I think I have a couple of issues going on with light intensity and nutrients/soil.
Here’s the Rx for my sickly plants:
Feed 1 tsp of each gro, micro, bloom per gallon each watering, as needed. Adjust pH to 6.8. If needed, increase nutrient strength after one week.
Move light up as high as possible (I have 4” to work with). In the mean time, I moved all plants as far away as possible from the center of the tent to avoid the high intensity light.
Also, after 8 hours of rotating the pots, look what popped up on my previously healthy leaf!
Yes I too prefer to amend my soil grows so that only water is necessary. Makes things much easier with organics.
I completely agree that in a real soil scenario you aren’t wrong about pH but there are a few key points that IMO change the typical rules of thumb for this particular grow. In the Epsoma mix the only thing that isn’t inert is worm castibgs which has already been processed and has a nuetral pH. There’s no blood, bone, or guano to break down and become acidic nor is there any dolomite lime or oyster shell to help balance out the acidity of the previous ingredients stated. None of them are there. There’s no food available from organic inputs nor is there food for the biology in the worm castings to munch on. It’s an incomplete soil web.
The epsoma mix is pretty much like promix and they are more suited to a slightly lower pH than true soil since it has no additional organic inputs. IMO I wouldn’t start changing the pH just yet.
True tinkering with pH isn’t that hard to do. In this case only the little reactive strips and color chart are available to Missbotany. They get it done but the strips aren’t perfect for precise pH measurments so I would be weary in attempting to guess 6.8 in fear that it’s above 7 as hydroponic nutrients don’t do well above 7.I think tinkering with the ph is the easiest thing to do in this scenario tho, thats my opinion, i agree about the incomplete soil web and not much organics to lower the ph but if this is a peat mix, peat moss is organic and i think at least that decomposes over time?
True tinkering with pH isn’t that hard to do. In this case only the little reactive strips and color chart are available to Missbotany. They get it done but the strips aren’t perfect for precise pH measurments so I would be weary in attempting to guess 6.8 in fear that it’s above 7 as hydroponic nutrients don’t do well above 7.
Good point. Peat moss does decompose over time but unfortunatley its nutritional value is practically nothing.
Actually that was my concern too, when i was phing anything that gives off a tint to the water, the strips and drops were inaccurate for me so bought a ph pen then moved to organic soil which is the best for me, slow but steady. In this case because she doesn’t have a ph pen, she could be setting the ph even lower, that would cause a lockout i think. Well in anycase i think she had diagnosed a P deficiency earlier and also i think what she now has looks like a calcium deficiency, what would be your suggestion about the solution, from your posts i think you are advising to up the nutes right? Which i too think should be done, but also with correct ph because it is as you said, like a soilless grow, correct ph value becomes more important in this case.
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