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White widow, gelat.og and king tut

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White widow, gelat.og and king tut

Cashmeh 48 Replies 8,857 Views
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Cashmeh

Cashmeh

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Auto white Widow is at day 35 from sprout. And the other 2 are just now popping up.

Im about to do a res change and was curious as to what ppm you all would use, ive been at 420 for some time. Ph stays around 5.6.

Also is that root rot? All those roots were starting to clump together and get hard. I massaged them a bit and now water flows through them. Just sucks they stay brown.

Please criticize too. . I still have some deficiencies once leafs grow large. Gonna suck when i get to flower stage :(
 

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Roots look good good. Keep your temps in check and they should stay that way. I just popped some Gelot. OG too. The pics seedsman has of it look sooo good.
 
Just a few updates.
Ppm on rdwc is 160
PPM on dwc auto is 450.
Starting low on PPMs due to having so many issues when trying to increase it.

Will be installing a suction cup airstone center bottom buckets tomorrow on all 3 buckets and res.

The dwc is auto white widow. Left rdwc is King Tut. Right is gelot.og.

Sprouts are almost a week. Auto is 45 days from sprout. Just switched the auto to a flora transition blend.

Issues -

Roots are not near as white as they once were.

New growth does not darken up. All the leafs have spots on them from nutrient burn and a 5.5-5.4 ph for a few days last week.

Im wondering how defoliation works according to ppm. If I have alot of leaf mass, with a 500ppm, and i defoliate to near nothing, should I reduce the ppm? Isnt that too much nutrients for the plant?

So far i get these spots, then i make them go away. It always happens when i increase the ppm to high. Now im thinking its too low. I just always get spots when increasing ppm. Im trying to read the uptake of nutrients.

No chiller is hydroguard a must? Should i ditch the 3 part flora series? I want simplicity. . thats it.. . a 1 part. . id love to add fewer ingredients honestly.

Thoughts on my setup? Ill upgrade it to 6 pots when these are done.
 

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450 ppm at .5 or .7 scale? Either is too low if you have decent light.
 
450 ppm at .5 or .7 scale? Either is too low if you have decent light.

The more I study the more I notice different systems run at different ppms. One guy I been following on youtube suggests the lower the better. He mentioned something about airation effecting ppm. . i really dont know.

Its just every time I try to increase in a res change. . everything gets nutrient burn. Honestly i will bring it up to 500 tomorrow night. The ppm drops slowly. If i start at 450ppm ill be at 440 in 2 days. . ill be at 430 in 4 days.

My thoughts are that im not that far off. And since i put spots on all the leafs every time I try to increase by 100ppm. . I guess im just finding it easier to start low and work my way up. ID rather slow the growth vs stunt it. If im making sense. . i might not be lol. .yall tell me

I did a res change to 550ppm last week. 1 day later it was at 575ppm. 3 days later it was at 625ppm. . i diluted to 550ppm. . and it kept climbing. That burnt all leafs causing major spots.
 
google ec conversion chart and find out at what your meter is set at
 
The cheap ones are usually set at .5. You can get by with an ok meter. It's just the constant calibration sometimes. More so with the cheap ph pens.
 
The cheap ones are usually set at .5. You can get by with an ok meter. It's just the constant calibration sometimes. More so with the cheap ph pens.
Im actually over 800 ppm now. . .but thats where i should be due to monitoring the uptake of nutrients every 12hrs. My meter was junk, just gotta fancy one and it shows double what my other says. . over double ppm . .So yea, life goes on. Sucks that my seedlings are doing great at 320ppm vs the 150 I thought I was giving them. I have to unlearn all this low ppm crap that ive been doing. :(
 
My charting shows I need to lower ppm on rdwc and level out the ppm uptake/intake on my dwc. My ppm meter was junk, so im starting from scratch with this ppm stuff. Regardless im switching the blend on the auto to a bloom blend and will post the updated charting. The PPM section of my charting is all messed up. Im working on leveling it out. Didnt realize it was this bad until i made these charts lol. . oh well. . wont happen again.
 

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This was horrible lol. . so it looks like alot of bad info when studying ppm trends. Im basically mocking someone elses grow now. Gonna start this bloom blend and hopefully kickstart flower mode :) 745ppm starting @ .7 scale. . 5.6 ph, . . . basically that day is split into 3 columns. The left column and yesterday was all done with a bad ppm meter lol. . i finnaly figured this shit out. . i think.
 

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D WC ppm 750 increasing to 800 tomorrow.
Rdwc ppm 230 stable 4 days now. Heavy ph fluctuation due to adding too much ph up and ph down. . finnaly figured about how much it takes. I lowered it to much, then raised it too much, then lowered it too much. . now im at 5.6 lol. .went from 5.8 to 5.5 up to 6.2 down to 5.5 and now im at 5.6 lol. .

Removed cool mist due to not being able center it in tent. Humidity is at 40 percent without it. But all res temps increased by 2 degrees. No root rot.

Both small plants are starting to look the same. I had one looking good and one ugly due to cool mist only hitting one plant before being exhausted. I was 50% with and 40 without. All is still fine. Both still show wear and tear on old growth due to enviromental and ph conditions.

Good news, new growth on all 3 plants look better than before.

Last question, i think i stunted the auto during flower phase. It went back to veg and is now starting to bud?

Do you see that leaf that has a pistol on it lol?

I have charting if needed. My goal was to eliminate negative variables. So now if i have issues, it should be the same across the board.

Tell me ur thoughts?
 

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looking good
Got my charting established. About to increase to 800ppm on the d WC. Rdwc is so fkn stable lol. . i love my rdwc. .crazy how much longer it stays stable.
 

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Some pictures for those bored.

So ive always had those spots. .for months now. I assume its either due to ph dipping below 5.6 or above 6.0. . or calmag issue. . i really dont know.

Since mocking ago there grow I increased calmag and it seems it helped the big plant. All new growth looks great. If i could isolate exactly what it was it would be nice.

Is it too low of calmag combined with low ph. . or to much calmag combined with high ph?

I shouldnt have ph issues anymore. Just had a learning curve. . yet as to calmag. . too much or not enough? The flora bloom series sucks apparently.
 

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Need to change my nutrients. Ph just started dropping. I have been feeding it the flora transition blend and will convert to the grow blend.

Are those spots calmag deffeciencys? I increased my calmag input on my auto and it loved it, no more spots on new growth. I guess im asking when switching to the grow blend, How much calmag should I add? I have a feeling im not adding enough lol. .

Should I top them and pull them to the center of the tent now? 3 plants in a 2x4. Looking to create 3 triangles. The buckets are pretty close to the wall.

Also the 220ppm worked perfect for 2 weeks. The charting makes it seem like I should keep it at 220?? Should I go up to 300 or 250? I just dont want nutrient burn.

As for res changes, this is the original mix. I havnt had to top it off. Lasted quite a long time and ppm was stable.
 

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@Aqua Man

first week 200ppm, second 220ppm. 18 gal sys, ppm dropped down to 110 over a 10 day period. After studying other similar grows on grow diaries, I feel comfortable setting the ppm at 500 now for them. Im just going to keep it on the transition blend due to it being week 3. I plan to flow them at week 4-5 somewhere. I am wondering if a bloom transition will work 10 days from now. I will send them to flower in 10-14 days. Ima try the quick flowering method. I noticed a bit of slime buildup on the edges of the res. I cleaned it all after the change. Im assuming due to light leaks and 10 day res. I never had to top it off lol. I am trying not to do weekly res changes. I would perfer to change them ever 2 weeks.

Hows all this sound?
 
Dropped down to 210 lol. . not 110. Also meant to say flower them at week 5-4. .not flow. . . Stupid phone :(
 
Necrotic peppering is indicative of calcium deficiency. You want your ph to rise and your ppms to lower. Just add nutrients to bring both back. (usually) Might have to add some ph down here and there.
 
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