Why Are By Sugar Leaves Turning Brown?

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Badwolf

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It does look like you had some nutrient burn, but that looks like a lock out caused by an excess of something or fluctuating pH.

Can you tell us:


What is your pH of reservoir?

What is your starting EC, before mixing in nutrients.

Do you have to adjust pH after mixing nutes, are you adjusting up or down?

My immediate advice:
-Flush container(s) heavily with 1/4 strength nutrients at 5.9 pH
-Feed 1/2 Strength nutrients for three days, at least once a day, preferably two at pH 5.9; you will find your plants will drink a lot more water when you lower the strength of feed.
-Get back to us! Remember that this type of damage will not recover, you may stop it from spreading, don't expect these leaves to go green again.

Good luck,

X


Ph of tap water is 8.0
ppm -80

reservoir ph is 6.0
current ppm 1000
night temps lowest have been 72 daytime high of 82

light is at recommended manufacturer spec of 18 inches above canopy.
humidity is sitting at 45

for this crop which did share the room with the last is at day 7 of flower

I have to ph adjust down after adding nutes usually from 6.4 down to 6.0

let me know if i missed any other questions.
If its light burn it would surprise me, this is a new light for me recently replaced with from 1000w hps
 
B

Badwolf

61
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What kinda water you using coco doesn't work well with some well water becuase of it total lack of C. Some salts effect it not wonderfully It doesn't work with city water period.
If you want help need your whole chemical formula and how much how often.
I would look for bugs, if you rule them out move to chemistry. The edges tips rolling over and the rust burns on the edges I have also seen.
You want answers answer the questions.
It looks like your chemistry was off and the light and you got 3 leef. When you corrected that you added cal/mag to deal with deficiency in doing that you have signs of N tox . This may not be how you did it but was how I did it and that looked a lot like your stuff the new leaves correcting them self with spots is classic PH flux. If this has moved thru your grow room do they all end up with it or signs of it.
The fact that many bugs and defincies look a lot alike that is why I have a binocular stereo microscope if its a critter or scale 2500 power will see it.
Bought at a school sale for 20 bucks.


Haven't used it for anything but looking at tricombs for a long time now.
I don't mess with ma nature I grow regular weed seeds and my chemistry is from this site. I still believe is white strain. also stop telling me what it is or isn't I don't need your help

So the original pics of the crusty cola is a plant that has been harvest already.
Currently this problem is now affecting new plants even after a bleaching out the room although these current ones shared the room for about a week with the older ones.

Without trying to get into to much detail I had a light leak with the previous crop that is not fixed and it caused a hormonal imbalance in the plants which made them grow leafs of three and extended the cycle by about 3 weeks past their original harvest date. Which is why the current crop ended up sharing the same space as the old plants. The veg plants and the flowering ones overlapped cycles.

Currently, I am using tap water and ill raise my light another 6-12 inches.

As far as chemistry the most detail I can give
is that in this stage of the life cycle im feeding.
1000 pm every other day but im bumping it up to every day now because the plants are of a size that there consuming all the water within 48 hours
125ml for 18 gallons spread across
all the products I reduced the the a/n feed from 4ml down to 2ml for there a/b mix because I found it to be a bit hot.
currently its
a/b
big bud
rhino skin
bud ignitor
bud factor x
microbraials, voodo juice, tarantula, a third one forget the name same line.
cal-mag
bud candy

I mix in silicate first followed by micros then a/b, cal-mag etc
then I ph the water down.

I haven't found any critters yet but I ordered a new digi scope that is more powerful that my 60x to try and get a better look
 
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hermit186

hermit186

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I am sorry get wound up. your chemistry is a part of your problem.
I have had light leeks before and a bad timer and still recovered the grow.
I would not use most of the stuff you use as it msds is scary.
I have experimented with several of the hormones your mixing but never at the same time.
Good luck
I would axe it and throw half the chemestry in toilet and start over.
 
DrMcSkunkins

DrMcSkunkins

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Ph of 6.0 in hydro locks out phosphorous and potassium, drop it to 5.8 for best results.
Nutrient-Lockout-Chart-Cannabis-2.jpg
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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i guess i may be a little confused. i though coco was a medium that is best watered every day. but im guessing thats with less nutes or cutting them in half
It would seem your pushing that ole gal a tad too hard with the nutes. Since your that close to flush I wouldn't worry too much. Ease up on the nutes a bit till flush.

How close are your LEDS from the canopy?
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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If you would answer my previous questions, I may be able to assist you.

From your recent pictures, some of it looks like potassium or phosphorous deficiency. The first photos on OP could be light burn, nutrient burn, or Boron Deficiency.

If you are experiencing so many deficiencies at once, I always assume and check pH, as a variation or swing will cause multiple nutrients to lock out.

If you are using tap water, you may have high alkalinity(carbonates) which will affect medium pH regardless of what your water pH is at feed.

The other thing that would cause such mayhem, to my knowledge, would be underfeeding, but at 1200 PPM that's incredibly unlikely.

It could also be environmental. Too low of humidity with too intense of light/heat will cause a plant to stop transpiring, they then seize to drink and eat. This will cause a lot of weird things.

It could be watering practices too. If you allow a medium to dry out or leave it over saturated, salts build up and create lockouts or the plant essentially drowns which shows in a lot of different ways.

It might be a pest, but I briefly read through my notes on russet and broad mites, this isn't the type of damage I would expect to see. Though, different strains react differently to different things.

Good luck,

X
Ahhh very nice to see another farmer who understands the relevance of high alkalinity/ carbonate hardness affecting Ph in the rootzone. And like you said that will happen no matter what Ph your feed solution was/is. Bravo!!!
 
B

Badwolf

61
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Ahhh very nice to see another farmer who understands the relevance of high alkalinity/ carbonate hardness affecting Ph in the rootzone. And like you said that will happen no matter what Ph your feed solution was/is. Bravo!!!

was the answer to this, to officially try a different water source.

and leds are about 20 inches above the canopy
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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was the answer to this, to officially try a different water source.

and leds are about 20 inches above the canopy
Depending on the wattage your using I have seen some weird situations with conditions that appear to be nutrient or lack of nutes but were related to the distance of the leds from the canopy. Suggest on your next fresh run try elevating the lights some more to see if this helps. Lots of folks think that cause their lights are now LED and not HID that with minimizing heat you can put leds closer and thats true to some degree, but wattage, optic lens used, degree of focal point and par along with uva and uvb emitted can actually burn or bleach the plant. Cant prove it just my opinion and thoughts.

On water sources with high alkalinity you could always use RO or source your water from elsewhere which is a PITA. Or you can treat your water source with an acid to bring down the alkalinity levels to an acceptable range.

Here is a way to accomplish reduction but it involves handing and use of chemicals. Here is the recipe. Adjust amounts per the actual amount of water treated.

How to Reduce Water Alkalinity for Gardening

Irrigation water is an important element of gardening. Water varies in alkalinity content much like soil, and at times it must be adjusted to provide the most hospitable conditions and the best results for your garden plants. It is important to know what type of plants you have in your garden and what alkalinity levels those plants prefer. Then your irrigation water supply can be adjusted to match.

1 Fill a large barrel or water tank with the irrigation water in need of alkalinity adjustment. Measure the size of the container so the proper calculations can be made when adding the necessary chemicals.

2
Add the acidic chemical of your choosing to the water tank or barrel so the pH level of the water within is reduced to the preferred irrigation standard of 5.8. The alkaline levels in the water will also be reduced by the increase in acidity. Each type of acid must be applied according to its own relative ratio based on a thousand-gallon water supply, and each is available in most gardening and home improvement centers.

3
Don your safety gear before working with acids. Add 9.1 ounces of citric acid per 1,000 gallons of irrigation water, 6.6 ounces of nitric acid, 8.1 ounces of phosphoric acid or 11 ounces of sulfuric acid. Add only one of these substances to your water supply and never attempt to mix more than one. Multiply these ratios to fit for water supplies that are larger than 1,000 gallons, and reduce them accordingly for smaller supplies. For example, if you are treating 100 gallons of water, you would add 0.91 ounces of citric acid and so on.

4
Stir the mixture gently with a long-handed shovel so the acid works its way evenly through the water supply. Test the water supply for pH and alkalinity. The ideal pH level lies between 5.2 and 6.8 for most plants, and the ideal alkalinity ranges from 30 to 60 calcium carbonate parts per million in most cases. Use a water pump and garden hose to distribute the water around the garden. I would use the Ph range as a base, but would use the range your cannabis strain likes and stick with that.

Things You Will Need
  • Barrel
  • Water tank
  • Citric acid
  • Nitric acid
  • Phosphoric acid
  • Sulfuric acid
  • Long-handed shovel
  • pH test
  • Alkalinity test
  • Thick work gloves
  • Eye goggles
  • Long sleeve shirt
  • Long pants
Tip
  • Alkalinity is often confused with pH, but the two are not interchangeable terms. A pH test measures the amount of acid or basic in water, while an alkalinity test measures the water's acid-neutralizing properties only.
Warning
  • Use caution when working with corrosive, poisonous elements like acid. Serious injury and death can occur. Wear heavy work gloves, eye goggles, long sleeves and pants at all times to prevent injury by splash or spill.
I hope this helps.
 
B

Badwolf

61
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If I may ask why does no one seem to think the possibility is rust fungus.

based off the idea of alkaline water wouldn't that affect veg plants as well and I would see the same symptoms sooner?
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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24hr update you can see the progression from the outer edges to the inner leaves
Keep in mind if using hps or led it is best to take pics for diagnosing issues when the pic is snapped in a better CRI range and a more natural light source. LED especially can make it harder to accurately diagnose under this light source.
 
B

Badwolf

61
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another 24hrs took some leaf pics outside the room and ill take some more without the led. def leaning on rust fungus
 
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DrMcSkunkins

DrMcSkunkins

Dabbling in Oil
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By the charts it looks like a P toxicity. Thin new leaves with interveinial chlorosis, leaf tips and margin burns. Ca and Mg deficiencies will likely follow if I am correct.
marijuana-deficiency-chart-jorge-cervantes.jpg
 
DrMcSkunkins

DrMcSkunkins

Dabbling in Oil
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Since I stopped trying to push my feedings and started using a ml measuring cup I have stopped having problems like this. 5ml base nutes and 5ml bloom or grow works wonders, especially if you aact.
 
B

Badwolf

61
8
Since I stopped trying to push my feedings and started using a ml measuring cup I have stopped having problems like this. 5ml base nutes and 5ml bloom or grow works wonders, especially if you aact.

when using the full line of a/n nutes a batch to their recommended ml per it results in a 1700ppm so I've always cut their specs in half and diluted with more water if i had to.
I do measure with a ml shot class and a specific measuring cup. I have an 18 gal res that I usual do about 130ml of each nute when there in full flower about 1200 ppm, currently less for week two around 800-1000

Interesting I was leaning towards a deficiency,not a toxicity because I did have red stems in veg though have disappeared in the first two-week stretch. I just changed the water source this morning to distilled water and withheld
silicate in case my nutes were getting locked out in the reservoir. Still spring with an anti-mite and fungal spray at night. well see where the next 48 hours go
 
B

Badwolf

61
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Since I stopped trying to push my feedings and started using a ml measuring cup I have stopped having problems like this. 5ml base nutes and 5ml bloom or grow works wonders, especially if you aact.

At this point, I'm considering doing a flush today and just feeding a/b without other additives like big but bud ignitor.
what do you think?
 
DrMcSkunkins

DrMcSkunkins

Dabbling in Oil
3,901
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Always nuye your water until the final flush with coco. If you really think that you over fed and watered with no runoff causing salt buildup on the soil, I would water until I got runoff and then water with normal nutes to replace the washed away food.
 
B

Badwolf

61
8
I've always been good with runoff 20% or more I use a homemade drain table or rack I should say and try and push through extra water just so I don't have that issue. I was thinking the flush because I'm trying to get as small as possible to eliminate variables, distilled water nothing but basic a/b bloom nutes with cal-mag and ph to 5.8 like you suggested and spraying a fungal/insecticide and keeping rh low and room specs in check
 

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