B
Badwolf
- 61
- 8
It does look like you had some nutrient burn, but that looks like a lock out caused by an excess of something or fluctuating pH.
Can you tell us:
What is your pH of reservoir?
What is your starting EC, before mixing in nutrients.
Do you have to adjust pH after mixing nutes, are you adjusting up or down?
My immediate advice:
-Flush container(s) heavily with 1/4 strength nutrients at 5.9 pH
-Feed 1/2 Strength nutrients for three days, at least once a day, preferably two at pH 5.9; you will find your plants will drink a lot more water when you lower the strength of feed.
-Get back to us! Remember that this type of damage will not recover, you may stop it from spreading, don't expect these leaves to go green again.
Good luck,
X
What kinda water you using coco doesn't work well with some well water becuase of it total lack of C. Some salts effect it not wonderfully It doesn't work with city water period.
If you want help need your whole chemical formula and how much how often.
I would look for bugs, if you rule them out move to chemistry. The edges tips rolling over and the rust burns on the edges I have also seen.
You want answers answer the questions.
It looks like your chemistry was off and the light and you got 3 leef. When you corrected that you added cal/mag to deal with deficiency in doing that you have signs of N tox . This may not be how you did it but was how I did it and that looked a lot like your stuff the new leaves correcting them self with spots is classic PH flux. If this has moved thru your grow room do they all end up with it or signs of it.
The fact that many bugs and defincies look a lot alike that is why I have a binocular stereo microscope if its a critter or scale 2500 power will see it.
Bought at a school sale for 20 bucks.
Haven't used it for anything but looking at tricombs for a long time now.
I don't mess with ma nature I grow regular weed seeds and my chemistry is from this site. I still believe is white strain. also stop telling me what it is or isn't I don't need your help
It would seem your pushing that ole gal a tad too hard with the nutes. Since your that close to flush I wouldn't worry too much. Ease up on the nutes a bit till flush.i guess i may be a little confused. i though coco was a medium that is best watered every day. but im guessing thats with less nutes or cutting them in half
Ahhh very nice to see another farmer who understands the relevance of high alkalinity/ carbonate hardness affecting Ph in the rootzone. And like you said that will happen no matter what Ph your feed solution was/is. Bravo!!!If you would answer my previous questions, I may be able to assist you.
From your recent pictures, some of it looks like potassium or phosphorous deficiency. The first photos on OP could be light burn, nutrient burn, or Boron Deficiency.
If you are experiencing so many deficiencies at once, I always assume and check pH, as a variation or swing will cause multiple nutrients to lock out.
If you are using tap water, you may have high alkalinity(carbonates) which will affect medium pH regardless of what your water pH is at feed.
The other thing that would cause such mayhem, to my knowledge, would be underfeeding, but at 1200 PPM that's incredibly unlikely.
It could also be environmental. Too low of humidity with too intense of light/heat will cause a plant to stop transpiring, they then seize to drink and eat. This will cause a lot of weird things.
It could be watering practices too. If you allow a medium to dry out or leave it over saturated, salts build up and create lockouts or the plant essentially drowns which shows in a lot of different ways.
It might be a pest, but I briefly read through my notes on russet and broad mites, this isn't the type of damage I would expect to see. Though, different strains react differently to different things.
Good luck,
X
Ahhh very nice to see another farmer who understands the relevance of high alkalinity/ carbonate hardness affecting Ph in the rootzone. And like you said that will happen no matter what Ph your feed solution was/is. Bravo!!!
ill give it a go for this week and hope that it makes a differenceePh of 6.0 in hydro locks out phosphorous and potassium, drop it to 5.8 for best results.
Depending on the wattage your using I have seen some weird situations with conditions that appear to be nutrient or lack of nutes but were related to the distance of the leds from the canopy. Suggest on your next fresh run try elevating the lights some more to see if this helps. Lots of folks think that cause their lights are now LED and not HID that with minimizing heat you can put leds closer and thats true to some degree, but wattage, optic lens used, degree of focal point and par along with uva and uvb emitted can actually burn or bleach the plant. Cant prove it just my opinion and thoughts.was the answer to this, to officially try a different water source.
and leds are about 20 inches above the canopy
Keep in mind if using hps or led it is best to take pics for diagnosing issues when the pic is snapped in a better CRI range and a more natural light source. LED especially can make it harder to accurately diagnose under this light source.24hr update you can see the progression from the outer edges to the inner leaves
Since I stopped trying to push my feedings and started using a ml measuring cup I have stopped having problems like this. 5ml base nutes and 5ml bloom or grow works wonders, especially if you aact.
Since I stopped trying to push my feedings and started using a ml measuring cup I have stopped having problems like this. 5ml base nutes and 5ml bloom or grow works wonders, especially if you aact.
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