Winterizing To Purify Rso

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DGP

DGP

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If you lower the temperature of the ethanol to below -50C by dropping dry ice in it, you can soak and agitate the material in it, without picking up much chlorophyll or plant waxes.

Consider that if the protective plant waxes stay in place, that the alcohol has minimal access to the chlorophyll in the plant cells.
Thanks! I have easy access to dry ice so I may run a batch that way to see how it works. Still torn between ethenol and dry ice with bubble bag....Not sure which would be best at this point. However, one thing that always bugged me was the cost of the

D
If you lower the temperature of the ethanol to below -50C by dropping dry ice in it, you can soak and agitate the material in it, without picking up much chlorophyll or plant waxes.

Consider that if the protective plant waxes stay in place, that the alcohol has minimal access to the chlorophyll in the plant cells.
Do you just pack the dry ice in around the container of Ethanol/cannabis? Then agitate? How long would be a good soak/agitate time?

Thanks again,

D
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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So, one reason I have used ethanol is the low toxicity. Isn't hexane and pentane quite toxic. The attraction of using a low toxicity solvent is you don't have to worry about perfect purging.

Lately I have been using extract that was just made with dry ice and a 120 micron bag because it is basically solvent-less.....no worry about fire or purging. Then it is mixed with some coconut oil and an emulsifier such as a tiny amount of lecithin. I have often wondered if this is a better way to make an "RSO like" material with the same benefits and a lot less clorophyll (if it is shaken out carefully).

D
Pentane nor Hexane are particularly toxic, but our livers turn Hexane into 2.5 Hexane Dione, which is a carcinogen.

You can use oil as the menstruum, but you will be limited at how much it will hold in solution, where you can remove some of the alcohol and make the extract more concentrated and potent per unit/volume.

An Homogenizer does a good job of maximizing how much kif the oil will hold, by chopping the oil and kif into micron size bits.
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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Thanks! I have easy access to dry ice so I may run a batch that way to see how it works. Still torn between ethenol and dry ice with bubble bag....Not sure which would be best at this point. However, one thing that always bugged me was the cost of the

D

Do you just pack the dry ice in around the container of Ethanol/cannabis? Then agitate? How long would be a good soak/agitate time?

Thanks again,

D
You can dump the dry ice in the alcohol or pack it around the container of alcohol, you just need to get it below -50C.

You watch the color, but about 15 or 20 minutes with agitation.
 
DGP

DGP

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Pentane nor Hexane are particularly toxic, but our livers turn Hexane into 2.5 Hexane Dione, which is a carcinogen.

You can use oil as the menstruum, but you will be limited at how much it will hold in solution, where you can remove some of the alcohol and make the extract more concentrated and potent per unit/volume.

An Homogenizer does a good job of maximizing how much kif the oil will hold, by chopping the oil and kif into micron size bits.

Been just using an old fashioned stainless mortise and pestal. Would you use some kind of grinder/pulverizer then? I have noticed the trichs are rather like fine sand in solution and they do tend to separate which was my concern that lead me to use an emulsifier. Doesn't seem to work that well though.

D
 
Graywolf

Graywolf

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Been just using an old fashioned stainless mortise and pestal. Would you use some kind of grinder/pulverizer then? I have noticed the trichs are rather like fine sand in solution and they do tend to separate which was my concern that lead me to use an emulsifier. Doesn't seem to work that well though.

D
What generator are you using? We used the CAT Scientific X-1000D with their G-20 generator.
 
Cyclopath

Cyclopath

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If you use 99% isopropyl you will get a much higher yield than Everclear.

When i make QWEHO (Quick Wash Everclear Hash oil) my yield is 12-14%

When i make QWISO (Quick Wash ISO Hash oil) with 99% isopropyl my yield is 17.2-24.5%. Thats like 50-100% more yield.

I think 99% ISO gives you a higher yield because there is much less water in it.

Two.Bears, are you living in a state where Everclear is NOT 190proof? Using 150 proof Ethanol will absolutely reduce your yield.

I did not see a yield hit when I moved from 99% Isopropanol to 95% (190 proof) Organic Ethanol.

Here in Oregon we can get 190proof at the liquor store, or buy 200proof from organicalcohol.com

I've only used the 200 proof a couple of times, and as I recover most of my solvent, I end up with 190 for the next round anyway...
 
A

Alvarodemoya

2
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Yes the clorophyll once it is frozen and strained through a coffee filter the solid bits of clorophyll fats lipids and solids will be filtered out of the liquid. I guarantee it.

I wish the mobile version of tge website permited me to send pictures i have on file but it only works with the camera and never shows my pictures in my galery.

PM me and send me your e mail address abd will ne happy to send you somd pictures i have on file with beautiful yellow liquid before purging, and final photoz of extracts done with 99% ISO, and others extracted with Everclear.
 
A

Alvarodemoya

2
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@two bears first time in forum but I was wondering I can get those fotos showing the color of each jar
 
Cyclopath

Cyclopath

45
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Winterizing will greatly improve thde taste of RSO.

If you use 99% isopropyl you will get a much higher yield than Everclear.

When i make QWEHO (Quick Wash Everclear Hash oil) my yield is 12-14%

When i make QWISO (Quick Wash ISO Hash oil) with 99% isopropyl my yield is 17.2-24.5%. Thats like 50-100% more yield.

I think 99% ISO gives you a higher yield because there is much less water in it.

there are two things in play here.
1)Iso absolutely picks up more fats that ethanol! so you get a bigger pile, but no increase in actual cannabinoid yield.
2) if you're in a state where your everclear is 150proof not 190proof. the added water will also lower your yields.

https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF02543490

400e761ed2e3ddd927d284757e162accc3aa8f5f_1_500x500.jpg


also: Where are you getting your 99% iso? I believe that it's 91% being sold in the grocery store.
 
thehighguy

thehighguy

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The person that extracts for me uses ethenol that I provide. isn't ethenol polar?

The reason I asked for winterizing was because the clorophyl upsets my stomach (that's my assumption anyway).


thanks,

DP
ethanol is polar but at low temperatures it takes on some non-polar properties and in turn does not extract the chlorophyll as readily.
 
JTsTHCfarm

JTsTHCfarm

4
3
What exactly is filtered out of the alcohol when you do the winterizing step. The process is to put the alcohol solution in the freezer for a day or so and then cold filter through a coffee filter in the freezer keeping it cold the whole time. The stuff that comes out looks really awful. I am just curious if it is mostly chlorphyl or just other plant material that is not needed?

Any suggestions on how to make RSO cleaner?

I currently farm very carefully and am not using any pesticides/fungicides at all. If I need some help with bugs during past grows I have been going to good bugs and then OMRI/KIND rated natural pesticides only when absolutely needed.

Thanks!

DP

View attachment 634421
When I filter my winterized RSO my coffee filter is completely black, almost like I’m losing good oil. I hope I’m not making a mistake by adding this step to my process.
 
Eskander

Eskander

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When I filter my winterized RSO my coffee filter is completely black, almost like I’m losing good oil. I hope I’m not making a mistake by adding this step to my process.
If you have a freezer cold enough for a good winterization then you might give some thought to extracting it it as well. If your dry bud is frozen and then the already cold ethanol is added, nothing that comes out in winterization will get into solution in the first place. You will probably want to run it through a filter anyway to get out bits of plant material but that will be a fast filtration rather than the slow as fuck filtering of waxes.

Next, if you really want to clean it up and are willing to do some more intense organic chem, you might give thought to a hexane/salt water wash. Skunk Pharma has a good write up on it here:

Isn't the "appeal" of RSO that it is poorly refined process and product? I'm a heretic when it comes to RSO, but it always seemed like it is effectively shorthand for any crappy solvent extraction technique...

-Eskander
 
JTsTHCfarm

JTsTHCfarm

4
3
If you have a freezer cold enough for a good winterization then you might give some thought to extracting it it as well. If your dry bud is frozen and then the already cold ethanol is added, nothing that comes out in winterization will get into solution in the first place. You will probably want to run it through a filter anyway to get out bits of plant material but that will be a fast filtration rather than the slow as fuck filtering of waxes.

Next, if you really want to clean it up and are willing to do some more intense organic chem, you might give thought to a hexane/salt water wash. Skunk Pharma has a good write up on it here:

Isn't the "appeal" of RSO that it is poorly refined process and product? I'm a heretic when it comes to RSO, but it always seemed like it is effectively shorthand for any crappy solvent extraction technique...

-Eskander
I wonder if your method will extract the same amount of oil as heating it up in a magic butter maker for eight hours with a constant blend? I’m always looking to improve my methods, what do you think?
 
Eskander

Eskander

74
33
I wonder if your method will extract the same amount of oil as heating it up in a magic butter maker for eight hours with a constant blend? I’m always looking to improve my methods, what do you think?
No matter what approach you use you have some residual left behind that is % loss. Extracting hot with agitation will always extract more that a cold soak but it will also pull vastly more garbage out too. You will get more waxes and proteins and essentially everything else that isn't cellulose and lignin in MBM. It is a difference of endpoints. Do you want a high quality extract or maximum yield? You can rarely do both.

If you did the hot extraction and then the hexane clean up, you might end up with decent quality and high yield. The hexane wash will have a certain % loss too as literally EVERY handling step has some loss. How much loss you get at each step is the crucial thing to look at and is what that step achieves worth that loss to you?

If you can go from foul tasting black tar to honey with 1% loss it is kind of a no brainer. If it is 10 or 20% then it gets harder to consider. No clue what the loss rate will be for the clean up like that but if I was going to take a swag I'd say less than 5%. @Moe.Red might put a different number on it.

-Eskander
 
Moe.Red

Moe.Red

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Well, I got paged to this thread - I have to admit that I did not read it all it is quite old.

I think it is worth mentioning that winterization is a method to remove lipids - that's pretty much it. It does not remove chlorophyll or any other nasty stuff like that.

I can elaborate - but I think this thread is off in the weeds a bit. We might need to start over with some definitions and expectations setting.
 
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