Wondering whats going on with my babies

[CaptainCLE420]

PLEASE HELP MY BEAUTIFUL FRIENDS


So I potted my babies about two weeks. They were germinated. Was going great for a while. Pretty much just growing them outside. When it rains bad I bring them in. I was watering them periodically. So I don't know what's going on and could use some professional help
Idk why but the he bottow leaves on a couple of my plants are bvb yellowing. A few of them are looking great but the a few are not. I didn't do anything different to the ones that are yellowing so I really don't know what's going on. I didn't think nutrients would be important. I'm using natural organic soil. Growing them outside as I said. PLEASEEEEE HELPPPP I JUST WANT MY BABIES TO GROW. this my first time growing and would be devastated if I screw it up. I'll add pics to show ya what they look like.

wonder if I was over watering. I stopped watering them but then it rained. Hopefully I can get a couple days of nice sunny weather to string together so I can eliminate the overwatering theory. Either way imma leave it up to the pros on here to give me some advice!

LOVE YALL!

 

[Moe.Red]

I'm not a soil grower, nor do I grow outside, but it looks to me like something is eating them.

Also the cotyledons are dying faster than I would typically want to see at this point, meaning the plant is searching for nutes and can't find them so stealing from the cotyledons. This could be the soil, lack of roots, or something else. Hopefully an outdoor soil grower can chime in here.

Good luck.

 

[Moshmen]

You say soil big sure looks like something I would consider a potting mix ? What brand of soil are you using and what kinda of temps you getting

 

[Aqua Man]

Spraying them with water in full sunlight?

 

[OldManRiver]

Given the bark on top, I'd guess that the pH is pretty low, because a lot of bark used in soil mixes is acidic. OP, you can get a pH test meter from the big box stores or amazon for 15 bucks. Water the soil, put the meter in, give it five min to settle. I'll bet a six pack it'll come in about 5. If thats the case, get some Lilly soil sweet, throw a handful in, water in, wait a day, repeat. Probably need three treatments, but better to go easy. It could equally be high, in which case, same program with aluminum sulphate.

Either deviation locks up nutrients in the soil, mimicing deficiency. The cots are fading because the plant wants to grow and is taking the nitrogen from there to favor the upper leaves, which is normal, but implies that N isn't available. At this stage of life, the plant doesn't need much, so that suggests lockout due to pH to me.

 

[CaptainCLE420]

Ok thank you everyone for the responses! So I transfered the because I thought maybe it was the soil. I used an organic soil. Like I said first time grower so new to this and appreciate any all input. I ended up transferring them. To small cup thinking maybe they were in to big of pots and also switched the soil. Now using Happy Frog Fox Farm soil. Now that your saying to flush them I wish I would have because the cups don't have any drain holes.
So either way what I'm hearing is they are savable if I take the right steps and that makes me happy. Put slot of effort and time into these and still learning.
OldManRiver anyway you could link me a pH tester that you would recommend ? I have Amazon prime so it'd probably be here the next day. Reason being I checked WalMart and couldn't find anything but fish tank pH. Also what lilly soil is.

Might be good to tell you what I did at first too.
I used purely organic soil not for any particular reason I just figured it'd be the safest option. Also I used smart water and Evian to water them for weeks which come to find out that Evians actually pH is like 6.8. but I did end up switching to my sink water and the fish tank pH strips suck so idk what the sinks pH actually is. It looked right in-between y and I but there's no way of telling because they suck.

So hopefully that can help access a little more. Here's more update photos..O and I have one that's doing pretty good which I did absolutely nothing different with but I'm proud of lmao


Thank you guys all so much for spending any amount of your time to respond

 

[CaptainCLE420]

Ok thank you everyone for the responses! So I transfered the because I thought maybe it was the soil. I used an organic soil. Like I said first time grower so new to this and appreciate any all input. I ended up transferring them. To small cup thinking maybe they were in to big of pots and also switched the soil. Now using Happy Frog Fox Farm soil. Now that your saying to flush them I wish I would have because the cups don't have any drain holes.
So either way what I'm hearing is they are savable if I take the right steps and that makes me happy. Put slot of effort and time into these and still learning.
OldManRiver anyway you could link me a pH tester that you would recommend ? I have Amazon prime so it'd probably be here the next day. Reason being I checked WalMart and couldn't find anything but fish tank pH. Also what lilly soil is.

Might be good to tell you what I did at first too.
I used purely organic soil not for any particular reason I just figured it'd be the safest option. Also I used smart water and Evian to water them for weeks which come to find out that Evians actually pH is like 6.8. but I did end up switching to my sink water and the fish tank pH strips suck so idk what the sinks pH actually is. It looked right in-between y and I but there's no way of telling because they suck.

So hopefully that can help access a little more. Here's more update photos..O and I have one that's doing pretty good which I did absolutely nothing different with but I'm proud of lmao


Thank you guys all so much for spending any amount of your time to respond

Even the one that's doing good has bad tips. I don't get it !

 

[Moe.Red]

GroTheory PH Meter and Tds Meter PPM Meter and pH Meter for Water Testing 0.01 High Accuracy pH Tester Digital Tds Meter pH Reader for Hydroponics Pool and Aquarium

Something like that is a good start that won’t break the bank
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086JG935T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZYRMYY5TGGMWT0JGGM6Z

 

[BDH420]

Just a heads up on the Fox Farm Happy Frog soil. When watering do not use tap water. The soil uses the natural food web and microbes to feed the plants. The chlorine will kill off the beneficial microbes. these microbes brake down the stuff in the Happy Frog soil to feed the roots. So If you kill them off you will have to feed with some bottled nutes. I hope this helps. Letting tap water sit for 4 days or so will evaporate the chlorine off supposedly. I took a giant trash bin cleaned it really good am and using that to store my water for the Happy Frog soil.

 

[Aqua Man]

Just a heads up on the Fox Farm Happy Frog soil. When watering do not use tap water. The soil uses the natural food web and microbes to feed the plants. The chlorine will kill off the beneficial microbes. these microbes brake down the stuff in the Happy Frog soil to feed the roots. So If you kill them off you will have to feed with some bottled nutes. I hope this helps. Letting tap water sit for 4 days or so will evaporate the chlorine off supposedly. I took a giant trash bin cleaned it really good am and using that to store my water for the Happy Frog soil.

It's not usually an issue with any organic soil as chlorine will react with organic matter and be destroyed in the process. Max allowable is 4ppm and most often it's knly around 1ppm. Chlorine is actually a micronutrient and although I would not use it for a tea imo it's not an issue in soil.

Most municipalities have switch to chloramine and that nasty shit will last up to weeks even if aerated unlike chlorine. This is because of the strong bond between the chlorine and ammonia in chloramine.

If you want to neutralize it instantly 1 gram of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) per 100gal will eliminate 1ppm so if your preating I would suggest treating say 5gal with 0.1 grams that will neutralize 2ppm of chlorine or chloramine almost instantly if your worried about it... but personally I wouldn't worry unless brewing teas.

 

[CaptainCLE420]

UPDATE:
So I let them dry out and haven't been using tap water. Was using alkaline water but figured that wouldn't be acidic enough to help the plant absorb nutrients so just let them sit and absorb rain water.
We've been getting slot of rain and they've been doing slot better.
I plan on moving these to the woods next to my house when they are jig enough. I can still check and water them when I need to in this spot so hoping to do a partial gorilla grow.


I checked the pH in the soil tho and it actually is showing in-between 7 and 8 which I'm guessing is why the bottom leaves are a little orange/yellow because it's not absorbing the nutes?? Not an expert but that's kind of what I've been hearing. Idk what to do to lower the pH just a very tiny little bit without overdoing it and ending up being to acidic. That why I just been letting the rain water do the trick because the rain water I'm sure is at a good pH level.

What you guys think? Definitely looking slot better but still looking for advice and tips if any of you have anything for me I'd greatly appreciate it

Love y'all and thank you
Great community of people here

 

[OldManRiver]

Soil pH of over 7 will lock out nutrients. Aluminum or iron sulphate will fix that.

BTW, the last batches of Happy Frog I got were both well over 7, and I won't use them again.

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

That soil is ... interesting. What's in it?

 

[CaptainCLE420]

@OldManRiver
How to much aluminum or iron sulfate should I use? And which would you use?
Another question, I have to report the ones that are still in the cups, what soil would you recommend for outdoor growing that won't need me to keep dumping nutrients into it?

Also how would I add these to the plants? Are they a powder that I just dumping there and how much? Thank you so much !

@Aqua Man it's happy frog soil. Like I was telling oldmanriver I still have to report these plants, what soil would u recommend for outdoor growing that would require minimal additional nutes?

 

[Aqua Man]

@OldManRiver
How to much aluminum or iron sulfate should I use? And which would you use?
Another question, I have to report the ones that are still in the cups, what soil would you recommend for outdoor growing that won't need me to keep dumping nutrients into it?

Also how would I add these to the plants? Are they a powder that I just dumping there and how much? Thank you so much !

@Aqua Man it's happy frog soil. Like I was telling oldmanriver I still have to report these plants, what soil would u recommend for outdoor growing that would require minimal additional nutes?

@OldManRiver will have much more knowledge on this than myself. I would say a properly amended organic soil. Or some added Gaia 4-4-4. There are so many options and I'm really not the guy to be giving advice on this.

@OldManRiver @GNick55 @oldskol4evr @1diesel1 are all growers that come to mind that have the knowledge to help you here.

I only tagged a few that popped into my mind but there are lots of them on here and maybe a seoerate post asking for an outdoor amended soil recipe would help more.

You definitely don't want to be using synthetic nutrients if they are exposed to rain.

 

[OldManRiver]

@OldManRiver
How to much aluminum or iron sulfate should I use? And which would you use?
Another question, I have to report the ones that are still in the cups, what soil would you recommend for outdoor growing that won't need me to keep dumping nutrients into it?

Also how would I add these to the plants? Are they a powder that I just dumping there and how much? Thank you so much !

@Aqua Man it's happy frog soil. Like I was telling oldmanriver I still have to report these plants, what soil would u recommend for outdoor growing that would require minimal additional nutes?

Follow the directions, but use less. For a 16 oz solo cup, a slightly heaping tablespoon would be a good place to start. Sprinkle on top, water in thoroughly, wait a few days, then measure again. Use half as much the second time. It doesn't mater which you use, it's the sulphate part that matters.

I have had really bad luck with Happy Frog the last two years, with pH being way too high. I will never use a Fox Farm product again. I wrote to them about it, and their answer was, send us the lot number, which I did, then I never heard from them again. Fuck them hard. GH Organic soil, available at my local big box store, has been great. I'm not an organic fanatic, it's just good soil. With any soil, you'll get better results with pot if you plan on using a veg feed and a bloom feed. If you use a soil like Miracle Grow, with fertilizer in it, you'll get timed release of nitrogen into your bloom period, which suppresses blooming and encourages stretch. Pot is best grown with a fairly low nitrogen, good drainage soil, and then augment the soil with feeding a very soluble (eg., NOT time release) pot oriented fertilizer. I use Botanicare Pro, but General Hydro, etc, are all fine. Just stick with one manufacturer, you can get issues if you mix and match. You need less than the manufacturers recommend, i use half as much, half as often, as they recommend, and I grow trees.

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

Follow the directions, but use less. For a 16 oz solo cup, a slightly heaping tablespoon would be a good place to start. Sprinkle on top, water in thoroughly, wait a few days, then measure again. Use half as much the second time. It doesn't mater which you use, it's the sulphate part that matters.

I have had really bad luck with Happy Frog the last two years, with pH being way too high. I will never use a Fox Farm product again. I wrote to them about it, and their answer was, send us the lot number, which I did, then I never heard from them again. Fuck them hard. GH Organic soil, available at my local big box store, has been great. I'm not an organic fanatic, it's just good soil. With any soil, you'll get better results with pot if you plan on using a veg feed and a bloom feed. If you use a soil like Miracle Grow, with fertilizer in it, you'll get timed release of nitrogen into your bloom period, which suppresses blooming and encourages stretch. Pot is best grown with a fairly low nitrogen, good drainage soil, and then augment the soil with feeding a very soluble (eg., NOT time release) pot oriented fertilizer. I use Botanicare Pro, but General Hydro, etc, are all fine. Just stick with one manufacturer, you can get issues if you mix and match. You need less than the manufacturers recommend, i use half as much, half as often, as they recommend, and I grow trees.

I agree except I like FF OF for exactly those properties (delayed feed). It's far more forgiving that way and to me, much better for a beginning unguided grower.

 

[OldManRiver]

You definitely don't want to be using synthetic nutrients if they are exposed to rain.

I am curious as to why you would say this. Rain is just relatively pure, slightly acidic water, and this statement makes no sense to me. Fertilizers broadly exist in two types, highly soluble, and somewhat insoluble. The timed release fertilizers and organic fertilizers, which depend on bio-breakdown to become available, have the disadvantage of being relatively insoluble, and therefore are providing nitrogen to your plants for a lengthy and indeterminant/difficult to manage time. This delivers nitrogen to your girls potentially past the time you want to be doing that. The 'synthetic' nutrients are typically soluble, and wash through the soil, allowing better control of the available nutrient profile over the season.

 

[Aqua Man]

I am curious as to why you would say this. Rain is just relatively pure, slightly acidic water, and this statement makes no sense to me. Fertilizers broadly exist in two types, highly soluble, and somewhat insoluble. The timed release fertilizers and organic fertilizers, which depend on bio-breakdown to become available, have the disadvantage of being relatively insoluble, and therefore are providing nitrogen to your plants for a lengthy and indeterminant/difficult to manage time. This delivers nitrogen to your girls potentially past the time you want to be doing that. The 'synthetic' nutrients are typically soluble, and wash through the soil, allowing better control of the available nutrient profile over the season.

Well by synthetic I mean excluding slow release. The reason I say that is because they are immediately available and soluable so they are quickly washed out of the soil in a heavy rain unlike organic amendments.

Your points are exactly why I say this. But that's not to say that if they need a bump synthetics aren't good because that's exactly what I would use for a boost

 

[OldManRiver]

I agree except I like FF OF for exactly those properties (delayed feed). It's far more forgiving that way and to me, much better for a beginning unguided grower

Well by synthetic I mean excluding slow release. The reason I say that is because they are immediately available and soluable so they are quickly washed out of the soil in a heavy rain unlike organic amendments.

Your points are exactly why I say this. But that's not to say that if they need a bump synthetics aren't good because that's exactly what I would use for a boost

Nutes, in particular nitrogen, washing out reasonably quickly is what you want when growing weed. I think they are washed out less quickly than you think, certainly if you are in the ground, rather than pots, as I am. Nutes aren't food, they are more like vitamins. An excess of nutes is much harder to remedy than a shortage. I am currently battling an excess of nitrogen from too much manure over the past five years.