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Would like to try a new nutrient line that has honest feed charts.

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Would like to try a new nutrient line that has honest feed charts.

longbottom 68 Replies 11,318 Views
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I'm listening ! My bottled nutrients are on the shelf too long as it is, I'm thinking I need to go with powder (dry)... I was unaware taht liquid nutes have a shelf life but just discovered this today reading up on some of the brands you all recommend...
Yeah, depending on what brand it is, you can have mineral hardening as well as just basic light degradation going through the plastic speeding up a slow dissipation and the organic nutrients that they make those can go bad without being refrigerated like the wholly mackerel etc
 
OK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am just here for a few seconds and don't have time to reply right now, but I will be back to ask you a MILLION questions.
I have experience with two systems. The first is Fox Farms soils (Happy Frog and Ocean Forest), supplemented with GH Flora Trio synthetic liquid nutes. When I was running like that, I would either feed or transplant into fresh amended soil when my runoff fell below 1000 ppms, aka 2.0 EC. I rarely fed in veg, because I was transplanting frequently, using Happy Frog. Right before I'd flip to flower, I'd transplant into the final pots, using Ocean Forest, which is heavily amended. Then my first "real" feeding might be three or four weeks into flower. Depending on how the plants were doing, I might feed one or two more times, before cutting off base nutes two weeks before chop. A single feed would be 600 ppms at the ratio recommended by GH for that week, watering slowly to runoff, which might require between a quarter and a third of the pot volume.

I switched to 100% coco coir and dry nutes a couple years ago. Because the media doesn't come with nutes in it, and it drains better/faster than soil mixes, I feed the whole way, using ebb & flow in seedling and Blumats in veg and flower. Despite being media-based, it's a very different style from amended soil mixes.

I realize the following is a hot take and not widely held: the nute lines all work. The synthetic lines are all made from the same agricultural commodity chemicals. The ratios vary, which means the lines give us different levels of control. I like dry nutes to save money, and I like a "part A" that doesn't have any nitrogen in it. That's meant Jack's or Masterblend for me, although there are plenty of other options which will work great. I tend to avoid lines that are obvious money grabs. I'm not going to name names, because I'm not trying to start a fight.
 
Yeah, depending on what brand it is, you can have mineral hardening as well as just basic light degradation going through the plastic speeding up a slow dissipation and the organic nutrients that they make those can go bad without being refrigerated like the wholly mackerel etc

I grow one plant at a time and haven't used 1/4 of my small Dyna Grow bottles after years ! My Dyna grow nutrients are 3 years old now, in fact, its not even Dyna-grow anymore, they were taken over by Superthrive... I'm sad too, the Superthrive website is not nearly as good as Dyna Grow...


I'm thinking dry nutrients are the only way to go...I'll probably need to dump these..

Dyna
 
I have experience with two systems. The first is Fox Farms soils (Happy Frog and Ocean Forest), supplemented with GH Flora Trio synthetic liquid nutes. When I was running like that, I would either feed or transplant into fresh amended soil when my runoff fell below 1000 ppms, aka 2.0 EC. I rarely fed in veg, because I was transplanting frequently, using Happy Frog. Right before I'd flip to flower, I'd transplant into the final pots, using Ocean Forest, which is heavily amended. Then my first "real" feeding might be three or four weeks into flower. Depending on how the plants were doing, I might feed one or two more times, before cutting off base nutes two weeks before chop. A single feed would be 600 ppms at the ratio recommended by GH for that week, watering slowly to runoff, which might require between a quarter and a third of the pot volume.

I switched to 100% coco coir and dry nutes a couple years ago. Because the media doesn't come with nutes in it, and it drains better/faster than soil mixes, I feed the whole way, using ebb & flow in seedling and Blumats in veg and flower. Despite being media-based, it's a very different style from amended soil mixes.

I realize the following is a hot take and not widely held: the nute lines all work. The synthetic lines are all made from the same agricultural commodity chemicals. The ratios vary, which means the lines give us different levels of control. I like dry nutes to save money, and I like a "part A" that doesn't have any nitrogen in it. That's meant Jack's or Masterblend for me, although there are plenty of other options which will work great. I tend to avoid lines that are obvious money grabs. I'm not going to name names, because I'm not trying to start a fight.

It happens that I've used Happy Frog, Ocean Forest, and one round with Fox Farm Coco-Loco... Happy Frog is what I like to use now, I love this stuff.

With happy frog, my soil goes without water or feed for 3-4 days before becoming "light weight" and ready for water. So, I feed once a week and water with plain water alternating through the grow. If I see obvious deficiencies, or signs of over feeding, I may adjust feeding and plain watering as needed.

Frankly, the more grows I get under my belt, the less sure I am that I'm feeding properly ( It was so much easier when I was brand new, I just followed the charts).... Now I question myself all the time....

I've started to monitor EC at feed and at runoff, this helps, but I'm still having some issues mid to late flower that I just cant seem to correct...

So basically, I'm not sure if I'm over feeding or underfeeding... I just don't know for sure and was hoping for better feedcharts to use as a guideline..

Thanks for the tips, sorry to write a book ! It sounds like your feeding less than I am...
 
I'm a fan of the General Hydroponics Flora Trio as well.
Some people use the feed charts supplied with no issues but I prefer this feed chart below, it's a good starting point to build off of.

View attachment 2356702

That seems simple enough. Is the feed amount listed recommending to feed once a week or every watering?

I like this, to be honest it seems very similar to the charts I've been using for Dyna Grow and Fox Farm...

Please note: I'm not knocking Fox Farm or Dynagrow ! They've worked very well for me, I'm just thinking of trying something else to see what happens...
 
Examples of feed-charts I use from Dyna Grow and Fox Farm... (I use half recommended dose and work up as needed. I'm still unsure if the mean to feed nutrients once a week or every watering... (I've been alternating Feed and plain watering)



Dynagro Feeding Schedule




Dyna Gro Feeding Chart 1 1024x791
 
You know all, I think I'm gonna pull the plug on this thread... I'll just have to figure this out myself.

Thanks for the great tips on nutrients to try , I'm taking notes and appreciate the help....

As far as having a feed-chart that "holds my hand the whole way through" I think it may be wishful thinking....
 
I have experience with two systems. The first is Fox Farms soils (Happy Frog and Ocean Forest), supplemented with GH Flora Trio synthetic liquid nutes. When I was running like that, I would either feed or transplant into fresh amended soil when my runoff fell below 1000 ppms, aka 2.0 EC. I rarely fed in veg, because I was transplanting frequently, using Happy Frog. Right before I'd flip to flower, I'd transplant into the final pots, using Ocean Forest, which is heavily amended. Then my first "real" feeding might be three or four weeks into flower. Depending on how the plants were doing, I might feed one or two more times, before cutting off base nutes two weeks before chop. A single feed would be 600 ppms at the ratio recommended by GH for that week, watering slowly to runoff, which might require between a quarter and a third of the pot volume.

I switched to 100% coco coir and dry nutes a couple years ago. Because the media doesn't come with nutes in it, and it drains better/faster than soil mixes, I feed the whole way, using ebb & flow in seedling and Blumats in veg and flower. Despite being media-based, it's a very different style from amended soil mixes.

I realize the following is a hot take and not widely held: the nute lines all work. The synthetic lines are all made from the same agricultural commodity chemicals. The ratios vary, which means the lines give us different levels of control. I like dry nutes to save money, and I like a "part A" that doesn't have any nitrogen in it. That's meant Jack's or Masterblend for me, although there are plenty of other options which will work great. I tend to avoid lines that are obvious money grabs. I'm not going to name names, because I'm not trying to start a fight.
All nutrients are NOT created equal!
While they may use similar minerals and processes, it comes down to sourcing those minerals and how they’re processed.

I always think about Ruby Fulvic from New Millennium…

While on the face of it, it’s just another fulvic acid, but if you look into it, most fulvic acid is sourced from the same one or two sources…

Ruby is sourced from NINE different sources and add their own bacteria’s to the mix.

New Millennium may cost more than most, but there’s definitely a reason for it!

Carbeaunaria is made in small batches of ferments that extract several different plant available sugars.

All of their products, besides their basic bases, aren’t clear at all…and some can create biofilm or be sort of pulpy from all the beneficial goodness they hold ha ha ha.

Look into it!
 
You know all, I think I'm gonna pull the plug on this thread... I'll just have to figure this out myself.

Thanks for the great tips on nutrients to try , I'm taking notes and appreciate the help....

As far as having a feed-chart that "holds my hand the whole way through" I think it may be wishful thinking....
There’s many lines that literally tell you exactly how much per gallon to mix and when to use it ha ha ha
 
There’s many lines that literally tell you exactly how much per gallon to mix and when to use it ha ha

Well i broke down the greenleaf in a pretty simple breakdown, its not difficult homie.
 
I’m just thinking this thread has run its course. I got some good answers, thanks all.

I’m also out of energy to keep typing, I swear I’d be writing a book if I continue here on this subject (I won’t)
 
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Why do bottled nutes cause so much problems? The range of NPK the plant can take is huge. Any time I've over fed the delay is counted by the huge burst of growth. No burning..


One day thcfarmer is claiming "the claw" is too much nutes the next day it's "the burn". Maybe someday they will figure out what's burning all these plants when you try to feed them.



Something is imbalanced in the trace minerals if you're getting damaged leaves.
 
Mega Crop.

I'm loving this feed-chart, this is how it should be done? (similar to my method learned by trial and error)

Thanks for the tip, I'm buying mega crop now ! This is EXACTLY what I was looking for..

Mega Crop for the win !

How to Dial In Feeding For Optimal Results​

The Feeding Calculator is used as a general starting point for finding the right amount of nutrients to use. Depending on your setup, you may benefit from using more, or less than the suggestion. After running MEGA CROP for a few weeks you can begin to “dial-in” your feeding program, ie: modify it to achieve maximum harvest/results and have the healthiest plants!

Step 1 – Dialing In Nitrogen levels through MEGA CROP dosage by monitor your plants coloring:
  • Pay close attention to the green coloring of your plants leaves. Nitrogen levels in MEGA CROP are strongly related to how green your plants leaves will appear
  • If your plant leaves are light green or yellow, then increase your dosage of MEGA CROP to boost Nitrogen levels and increase green color
  • If your plant leaves are too dark green and/or have burned tips, then scale back your MEGA CROP dosage to reduce the nitrogen.
  • Your goal is to have the plants coloring to be a strong healthy green without burning, and you control this by increasing or decreasing the MEGA CROP dosage. If you are a new grower and not sure what color your plants should be at, browse the internet for pictures of healthy plants of your same type. You should make dosage changes for the first time in small amounts, for example changes of 10-20% increase or decrease only, and then waiting 2-3 weeks to monitor plant response after each change. Since the plant has to take time to uptake nutrients and process them, it may take 2-3 weeks to notice the results of the changes you made.
Step 2 – Dialing in your PK boost levels during bloom for maximum yields and resins:
  • Once your have achieved proper base nutrient dosage through regulating Nitrogen, then during flowering/blooming phase you can optionally add in PK booster to increase harvest.
  • PK Boosters like Bud Explosion have high amounts of P and K, and 0 (N)itrogen, so you can add them in during flowering without risking changing your plants Nitrogen levels
  • This may take some time, but you can continually increase PK boosters over several harvests to monitor for increase weight and quality. As long as you do not notice plant damage from increasing the dosage, you can experiment by increasing the dosage, and monitoring the final end results/yields.
  • Eventually you will find the dose that maximizes your results/yields, where adding more will not give additional benefit (saturation point).
 
Why do bottled nutes cause so much problems? The range of NPK the plant can take is huge. Any time I've over fed the delay is counted by the huge burst of growth. No burning..


One day thcfarmer is claiming "the claw" is too much nutes the next day it's "the burn". Maybe someday they will figure out what's burning all these plants when you try to feed them.



Something is imbalanced in the trace minerals if you're getting damaged leaves.

My main problem with bottled nutrients is the expense and shelf life. I can't use them in time before they expire...

My Dyna Grow bottles are all over 3-4 years old now and less than half used.
 
I'm loving this feed-chart, this is how it should be done? (similar to my method learned by trial and error)

Thanks for the tip, I'm buying mega crop now ! This is EXACTLY what I was looking for..

Mega Crop for the win !

How to Dial In Feeding For Optimal Results​

The Feeding Calculator is used as a general starting point for finding the right amount of nutrients to use. Depending on your setup, you may benefit from using more, or less than the suggestion. After running MEGA CROP for a few weeks you can begin to “dial-in” your feeding program, ie: modify it to achieve maximum harvest/results and have the healthiest plants!

Step 1 – Dialing In Nitrogen levels through MEGA CROP dosage by monitor your plants coloring:
  • Pay close attention to the green coloring of your plants leaves. Nitrogen levels in MEGA CROP are strongly related to how green your plants leaves will appear
  • If your plant leaves are light green or yellow, then increase your dosage of MEGA CROP to boost Nitrogen levels and increase green color
  • If your plant leaves are too dark green and/or have burned tips, then scale back your MEGA CROP dosage to reduce the nitrogen.
  • Your goal is to have the plants coloring to be a strong healthy green without burning, and you control this by increasing or decreasing the MEGA CROP dosage. If you are a new grower and not sure what color your plants should be at, browse the internet for pictures of healthy plants of your same type. You should make dosage changes for the first time in small amounts, for example changes of 10-20% increase or decrease only, and then waiting 2-3 weeks to monitor plant response after each change. Since the plant has to take time to uptake nutrients and process them, it may take 2-3 weeks to notice the results of the changes you made.
Step 2 – Dialing in your PK boost levels during bloom for maximum yields and resins:
  • Once your have achieved proper base nutrient dosage through regulating Nitrogen, then during flowering/blooming phase you can optionally add in PK booster to increase harvest.
  • PK Boosters like Bud Explosion have high amounts of P and K, and 0 (N)itrogen, so you can add them in during flowering without risking changing your plants Nitrogen levels
  • This may take some time, but you can continually increase PK boosters over several harvests to monitor for increase weight and quality. As long as you do not notice plant damage from increasing the dosage, you can experiment by increasing the dosage, and monitoring the final end results/yields.
  • Eventually you will find the dose that maximizes your results/yields, where adding more will not give additional benefit (saturation point).
I’ll make it even easier than that:

IMG 4572

I use the Mega Crop One Part and feed every time I water which is every 2-3 days.
 
All nutrients are NOT created equal!

Thanks, I'll read up on this. I'm reading up on everything here that has been recommended. I also enjoy the fact that you are not following along with others by saying "All nutrients are NOT created equal!"... You'll get a lot of heat and arguments by saying this, but I still appreciate all view points...

Lets take Nitrogen and think about it.... Its an element right? You'd see it on the periodic table correct? So, why would N be any different swapping nutrient lines? (I'm asking all, not telling)... Nitrogen is Nitrogen.... Gold is Gold right?

Anyway, I'm going to try mega crop. I really like the direction they take with the feed-chart---read your plants and feed as they need it...

Its also nice to have a feed-chart created by folks here that know...

While they may use similar minerals and processes, it comes down to sourcing those minerals and how they’re processed.

I always think about Ruby Fulvic from New Millennium…

While on the face of it, it’s just another fulvic acid, but if you look into it, most fulvic acid is sourced from the same one or two sources…

Ruby is sourced from NINE different sources and add their own bacteria’s to the mix.

New Millennium may cost more than most, but there’s definitely a reason for it!

Carbeaunaria is made in small batches of ferments that extract several different plant available sugars.

All of their products, besides their basic bases, aren’t clear at all…and some can create biofilm or be sort of pulpy from all the beneficial goodness they hold ha ha ha.

Look into it!
 
Last edited:
Why do bottled nutes cause so much problems? The range of NPK the plant can take is huge. Any time I've over fed the delay is counted by the huge burst of growth. No burning..


One day thcfarmer is claiming "the claw" is too much nutes the next day it's "the burn". Maybe someday they will figure out what's burning all these plants when you try to feed them.



Something is imbalanced in the trace minerals if you're getting damaged leaves.
Homie, plain and simple, you give too much nitrogen. You get dark waxy leaves with a downward hook.

Thats just facts.

I know of zero trace minerals that have a nitrogen tox similarity symptom wise in terms of looks.

I say next time you do a run, keep one bs plant around until veg, bomb it with a heavy handed mix of nitrogen and see what happens.
 
Thanks again ! I'm super excited to try this. The price is right too !
Yes it is. You have @Captspaulding to thank for the mix ratios in the picture. That’s what I transcribed from his much larger recipe and it works wonders.
 
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