would starting 12/12 for the first 2wks with a 600w mh then switching to a 1k hps be a bad idea?

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catdaddy

catdaddy

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got some girls, due to go into 12/12 soon, that have gotten pretty big on me and wanted to know, if i was to do it like how i stated in the topic would it help keep them from stretching as much as oppose t to starting out with the 1k hps? thanks in advance.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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Supercrop to limit stretch. Your plants need all the light they can get in the first few weeks of flower, so don't skimp. MH is good, but one signal the plants depend on is a change in spectrum- so if you go with MH, your girls may take a lil longer to flower.

Best of all worlds option; BOTH.
 
catdaddy

catdaddy

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Supercrop to limit stretch. Your plants need all the light they can get in the first few weeks of flower, so don't skimp. MH is good, but one signal the plants depend on is a change in spectrum- so if you go with MH, your girls may take a lil longer to flower.

Best of all worlds option; BOTH.
thanks for the solid info.
 
AdvancedBioHydroponics

AdvancedBioHydroponics

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No offense but actually it is not solid information. The spectrum of light does not determine or make the plant switch to flower, nor does it affect how fast or slow a plant flowers, it is the LENGTH of time the lights stay on.

It makes no difference if your using a MH or HPS as far as triggering flower goes.

The light spectrum does however affect plant growth, it just is not the determining factor of when your plants flower, as mentioned the length of daylight hours triggers flowering.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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No offense but actually it is not solid information. The spectrum of light does not determine or make the plant switch to flower, nor does it affect how fast or slow a plant flowers, it is the LENGTH of time the lights stay on.

It makes no difference if your using a MH or HPS as far as triggering flower goes.

The light spectrum does however affect plant growth, it just is not the determining factor of when your plants flower, as mentioned the length of daylight hours triggers flowering.

I am very precise with my use of language, and this is an example of how assuming you know what I'm saying without a careful read can get you in trouble. What I said was, '...one signal the plants depend on is a change in spectrum...' I did NOT say it was the determining factor, I said it was one signal, a contributing factor if you like.

Of course Cannabis is dependent on photoperiod to flower- but even here you got it backwards, bro; the plant doesn't care how long daylight is, it only keeps track of how long NIGHT TIME lasts. This is why people can grow good weed with 8, 10, or even 16 hours of daylight, as long as they still get their 11 hours or more of uninterrupted darkness. What changes between these scenarios? Yields and quality. How does one do it? Get a high quality cycle timer with a large enough periodicity range. Sentinel makes several.

The practice of pushing plants into a desired phase of growth involves many factors. You can be ham-fisted about it, or you can carefully build up all the appropriate conditions and watch the plant reward you with highly desireable growth.
 
catdaddy

catdaddy

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no disrespect but the answer was mainly about controlling the stretch, and me wanting to know if i could control by starting off with an 600 mh for the first two weeks then switching to a 1k hps after for the rest of the flower period. it definitely wasn't about triggering photo period or which bulb triggers the photoperiod.
 
oil

oil

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Bump

Im wondering the exact same thing...I need to reduce stretch. How effective is mh in reducing stretch?
 
B

Badmf

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Controlliong differnces in day and nite temps will control stretch. Adding MH and reducong N in the first weeks helps too. As leaves on crowded plants get shaded it grows hence stretch.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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to control stretch, use topping and tying down techniques and also higher light intensity; reducing light will only make them even lankier! MH is more effective at controlling stretch than HPS, but won't stop it altogether; besides, to a great extent stretch is a good thing, so why try and fight it? If all you want is an even canopy, flip them sooner and use the stretch to fill in your trellis...
 
oil

oil

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8
thanks for the info. I was thinking about flowering my sour d mom but I think she is just to big and bushy for my tent. ive decided to keep her and take more cuts.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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thanks for the info. I was thinking about flowering my sour d mom but I think she is just to big and bushy for my tent. ive decided to keep her and take more cuts.

Oh man, there are some crazy one plant grows goin' on around the farm, these guys are killin' it and getting over an elbow of connoisseur grade goods from just one 600w in a 3x3 or 4x4 tent. It's your plant, I'm just sayin'...
 
oil

oil

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Yeah flowmasta's grows are what gave me the idea, his plants are ridiculous. Ive decided to keep her so I can try a couple of SOG runs. I made a 3x2.5' bed that im gonna fill up. I have only grown in 3 and 5 gallon containers no more than six at a time so this would be a new experience. I have a 4x4 tent with 600 watt hps. Im thinking this might be my best bet for a quick turn around.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
Yeah flowmasta's grows are what gave me the idea, his plants are ridiculous. Ive decided to keep her so I can try a couple of SOG runs. I made a 3x2.5' bed that im gonna fill up. I have only grown in 3 and 5 gallon containers no more than six at a time so this would be a new experience. I have a 4x4 tent with 600 watt hps. Im thinking this might be my best bet for a quick turn around.

That's the spirit! I've even heard of guys putting TWO 600w bulbs in a 3x3 or 4x4, and killin' it. They used 'growzilla' dual bulb vented hoods, as I recall... massive yields, ridiculous frost as long as the plants stay at least 24" from the sealed n vented hood and temps in the tent were kept below 85. They ran one each HPS and MH for optimum spectrum, fwiw
 
oil

oil

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8
I just checked out those growzilla hoods you are talking about. Very cool. I think Im going to look into one of those. I recently bought a great white xxxl, but I may try to sell it to pick up one of these. Thanks for the tip.
 
Ever after

Ever after

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a better yield ............................................................................ i that what i do only i go to hps not a 1k those i have never been able to master

the blue light will make more nodes and it will make the plant stronger and make a bigger yield because if its stronger than it will yield more because it wont feel the stress of the weight till its too late ahaha monster buds?the buds below the the huge buds will be of high quality because they got good light i would add a week though because of the red light is needed too the blue can make the yield higher just from adding sites ...........................................
 
Ever after

Ever after

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the xxxl is the best on the market !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! nothing beats it the god zilla hood is bad
 
pugliese63

pugliese63

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63
I'll share my experience. I used MH the first two weeks of flower on a run of a cut of an Aloha White Widow F2 that I grow regularly. I've run this cut many times and she has a fairly good stretch. Using the MH during the first two weeks of flower made a big difference in the stretch. Sure, there are many factors involved that can contribute to plants stretching. But if most everything is inline (ie. temps, nutrients ect.) then using MH the first two weeks will contribute to helping control stretch. I don't use this technique, I just did it to confirm what I had read. These days I just do my best to get my plants into flower at the proper height. Its a real hassle growing plants that have vegged too long but sometimes its unavoidable.
 

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