Dmayer963 said:

This is my first time growing and so I'm doing a budget grow.
I'm growing in some organic soil I bought from home depot,
I dont ph my water but it is filtered water
The temp in my grow environment ranges from 77-81
I dont use notes.
If anyone could help me out that would be great!

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killing it with water,what does stem at soil look like,almost looks like damping off,the plant a baby,take a turkey baster and water out away from the plant about 3inchs the roots will spread but that small your looking at about 3in long roots and your water the whole pot,if your using MG dont add anything but just water

oldskol4evr said:

killing it with water,what does stem at soil look like,almost looks like damping off,the plant a baby,take a turkey baster and water out away from the plant about 3inchs the roots will spread but that small your looking at about 3in long roots and your water the whole pot,if your using MG dont add anything but just water

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One of them looks kind of white and the other looks purple

Dmayer963 said:

This is my first time growing and so I'm doing a budget grow.
I'm growing in some organic soil I bought from home depot,

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I'm totally into budget growing. Can you provide the brand and product name of the soil?

It looks too dense/heavy. I always add perlite to get abut 50% perlite in the soil. I don't see any in that soil. Cannabis likes wet/dry cycles (not constantly wet.).

Allmost looks like mold, what is your rh?( relative humidity) if its very humid in your grow room, above 50% max you can get spotting and mold if your plant is suseptable to it, and remember your seedling is at it's most vulnerable stage, it is very wet looking in your bag so you are overwatering witch can cause similar problems, so if I were you I would leave it alone as it drys and grows hopefully it will correct itself, I like my ph around 6.2 but no more than 6.5 max, my rh is between 40 & 50mlb max, in the winter you sometimes get an rh of 15 and this causes it's own set of problems. I in my humble opinion I think that it has been so hot and humid for so many people that unless your indoors and can control your environment your ok, but if you can't control your environment or your outdoors and your plants are not hardy enough to withstand high rh your going to have problems unfortunately.

az2000 said:

I'm totally into budget growing. Can you provide the brand and product name of the soil?

It looks too dense/heavy. I always add perlite to get abut 50% perlite in the soil. I don't see any in that soil. Cannabis likes wet/dry cycles (not constantly wet.).

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Naturally care
Organic garden soil

Edinburgh said:

Allmost looks like mold, what is your rh?( relative humidity) if its very humid in your grow room, above 50% max you can get spotting and mold if your plant is suseptable to it, and remember your seedling is at it's most vulnerable stage, it is very wet looking in your bag so you are overwatering witch can cause similar problems, so if I were you I would leave it alone as it drys and grows hopefully it will correct itself, I like my ph around 6.2 but no more than 6.5 max, my rh is between 40 & 50mlb max, in the winter you sometimes get an rh of 15 and this causes it's own set of problems. I in my humble opinion I think that it has been so hot and humid for so many people that unless your indoors and can control your environment your ok, but if you can't control your environment or your outdoors and your plants are not hardy enough to withstand high rh your going to have problems unfortunately.

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The rh bounces between 35 and 55

Dmayer963 said:

Naturally care
Organic garden soil

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That's a MiracleGro product. The NPK is 0.12-0.10-0.12. That's not too bad. Some of those retail-store soils can be 0.25-0.20-0.20. People get in trouble with those because it's to "hot" for cannabis, burns the plant. That's why I asked for specifics.

You should be ok with that one. But, next time you should mix it with 50% perlite. (Don't use MiracleGro perlite. It has nutrients added to it.). Or, use Black Gold Organic potting mix which is 0.05-0.00-0.00. Among the retail potting mixes, that seems better. I would mix a lot of perlite into it too. Cannabis likes well-draining, fast-drying soil.

At this point you should leave it alone and see what happens. It's common for new growers to "kill them with kindness."

If you ever want to talk budget growing, PM me. My lighting and feeding schedule is right out of Mad Max. I've gotten good results with it.

az2000 said:

That's a MiracleGro product. The NPK is 0.12-0.10-0.12. That's not too bad. Some of those retail-store soils can be 0.25-0.20-0.20. People get in trouble with those because it's to "hot" for cannabis, burns the plant. That's why I asked for specifics.

You should be ok with that one. But, next time you should mix it with 50% perlite. (Don't use MiracleGro perlite. It has nutrients added to it.). Or, use Black Gold Organic potting mix which is 0.05-0.00-0.00. Among the retail potting mixes, that seems better. I would mix a lot of perlite into it too. Cannabis likes well-draining, fast-drying soil.

At this point you should leave it alone and see what happens. It's common for new growers to "kill them with kindness."

If you ever want to talk budget growing, PM me. My lighting and feeding schedule is right out of Mad Max. I've gotten good results with it.

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For sure I appreciate it! What is npk though?

Dmayer963 said:

For sure I appreciate it! What is npk though?

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Nitrogen, Phosphorous & Potassium. It's the macro nutrients. It's what's shown on product labels, like "12-8-16." They represent the percentage of weight of those nutrients to the total package weight. If a package was 1kg (1000g), then it would have 120g nitrogen, 800g phosphorous, etc.

Those numbers are good for price shopping. You can know how much nutrient you're buying (compared to a 6-4-8 product which contains half the amount of nutrients.). But, a better way to think abut it is as a *ratio*. Both of those examples are a ratio of 1.5-1-2. That's a good ratio for veg. But, not so much for flower (which might prefer 1-1.5-1.2 in mid flower). The balance of N, P & K is important. It's easier to think of as a ratio that way. Easier to compare products.

Getting back to Mad Max growing: if you think of fertilizer products this way, you don't need to buy into the expensive multi-bottle "lineups." You can use ordinary products and get to an NPK ratio that you like. But, just starting out, you don't even need to do that. Just use a 1-1-1 ratio all the way through. (MiracleGro "Tomato" is an example. It's about a ratio 1-1-1.2. I've grown a plant with it. It grew fine. 5/8tsp/gal of water. I couldn't burn the plant even when I tried to using 1.2tsp/gal. It's inexpensive.).

Let me know if you need budget advice. I've done a lot in that area. It shouldn't cost a lot to grow your first plant.

If you have a fan moving air over the containers, that can help the soil dry faster. Being seedlings you don't want to create a wind-tunnel. But, a gentle breeze might help. (If your relative humidity was lower, you'd want to be careful about causing crinkled leaves by blowing too much air on them. But, that shouldn't be a problem at 35% RH. And, if it's not a powerful wind.).

It’s a bit wet at the feet.
Next time, use a small container to get seeds going. Like a solo cup.
That soil is loamy and it’s use is for inground and as an amendment. Next time get potting mix. It will have perlite and coco in it .
In your case , let it dry out , a lot. The humidity swing is also as issue, do you a a dehumidifier to maintain a steady environment.?
But long story short it’s just a bit too wet. Ease back on watering , I would water, take a spray bottle full of water, and every time it need water, mist the soil. You may need to do this daily once the media/ soil is dryer, but as soon as it stacks leaves , 3-5 sets, you can safely start watering, pro tip; water only at the perimeter. And not till it drips out the bottom, this will be later once you start feeding her.

Can you provide details about the light you are using?

Dmayer963 said:

Naturally care
Organic garden soil

The rh bounces between 35 and 55

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I thought dew poin and relative hum were the same thing, the amount of moisture in the air, last sat we had dew points, real feel, in the high 70s with temp of 100f so with the dew point it felt like 120f, I have either a temp rh meter or it must be a temp rel humidity meter, it still tells you how much water is in the air, I run an ac, my pants run at 78f I keep my rel hum or dew point between 40 and 50, when a.c. is of I have seen it go to 75, in the winter as low as 15 very dry, your outside temp can't fall below the dew point, so I wish you would explain to me the difference between rh, relative hum and dew point,

May bee I'm confused, I have an electric meter that tells temp and indoor humidity, is this not the same as rel humidity or 6th? We get dew points in the high 70s that tells you how much humidity is in the air, by running my ac and controlling my environment I run my plants at 78f with indoor humidity between 40 and 50, is not this the rh of my environment, or how much moisture is in the air, is not this not my relative humidity or rh? Now in the winter it gets dry, I have seen my indoor humidity go as low as 15 then I have to use a humidifier to get my indoor humidity up to at least 40%, is not rh the same thing as indoor humidity? It tells you how much moisture is in the air or how little moisture is in the air, is not this my rh?

Edinburgh said:

I thought dew point and relative hum were the same thing, the amount of moisture in the air, last sat we had dew points, real feel, in the high 70s with temp of 100f

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As far as I know, the OP should just watch RH, unless there were condensation concerns (wild temperature changes). As I understand it: dew point is the temperature at which air will be 100% saturated. If the temperature rises, its ability to hold moisture increases, causing the RH to drop -- but its dew point remains the same. If the temperature rose *and* more moisture entered the air (which you'd expect to happen, higher evaporation at warmer temperatures), the RH would rise, *and* the dew point -- the temperature at which RH is 100% -- would rise too).

Dmayer963 said:

This is my first time growing and so I'm doing a budget grow.
I'm growing in some organic soil I bought from home depot,
I dont ph my water but it is filtered water
The temp in my grow environment ranges from 77-81
I dont use notes.
If anyone could help me out that would be great!

Click to expand...

Dig it out & work some perlite into your soil as said above; water right around the plant until it grows a little bigger with a baster or a spray bottle, learn to water using a wet / dry cycle and for best results learn to pH your water or you're going to have continuing problems in my opinion, good luck

FWIW, and I'm only saying this because the OP's on a budget, I don't ph and never have troubles. It has appeared to me that soil has far more "gravity" (buffers) to pull the nutrient solution's ph to it (than the other way around). But, this depends on the water's mineral content, the strength of the nutrients. (If a person feeds strong, then the "weight" of the solution may affect the soil.). It may depend on whether the soil has dolomite added (I add 1-1.5 Tbsp per gallon of soil mix. I use Fertilome Hi-Yield Agricultural Lime.). It may depend on which nutrient brands are used. Maybe I'm just lucky. (But, I've seen others say they stopped ph'ing, and no problems.).

A ph pen, calibration solutions, probe cleaning and storage solutions... it adds up. The OP may want to take their chances. (My life feels much easier without ph'ing. But, again... maybe I'm just lucky.).

The soil goes through a fairly wide range of ph between wet and dry too. As long as there isn't salt buildup in the soil (feeding too strong, not enough runoff), that range should be healthy unless the soil has a bad ph to start with.

Also, to help the soil dry, the OP can get a 1/4" aluminum rod at the hardware store. About 18" long. Put it in a drill, spin the opposite end against a steel file to make a rounded point for less damage to the roots. Then bend about 4" (of the other end) 90-degrees to make a handle. Use that to aerate the soil. I use this a lot in flower when the soil is compacted (which, sometimes I wonder is due to too much magnesium). That could be a way to help the soil dry faster without disturbing the plant (trying to get perlite into it). The aerator doesn't have to be as fancy as I made for myself. It could be a coat hanger. Just stiff enough to push into the soil. For me, at this stage of growth, it wouldn't be hard to push a wire coat-hanger into the soil. But, in flower, I need something stiffer. (I wouldn't go crazy poking into the soil. It has to be a balance between improving the root zone versus tearing it up. 5-6 holes can help it dry, drainage.).

To the OP: It would help to know your water quality. If you're in the US, water providers are required to publish an "annual water quality report." You can usually find it by googling. If not, you can call your water provider and ask for it. (Or, if you're not in the US, they should be able to tell you about the water quality.). You need to know the "TDS" (total dissolved solids) in your water. And, what they are. If it's high (above 200... but maybe you could live with 300), you should take steps to correct that. Or, if there's some kind of imbalance in the minerals, that would be good to know about before you have problems.

Eventually you should have a PPM pen. You can get them for $20 on Amazon (last time I looked: EZ-TDS or TDS-3). You don't need calibration solution. You can mix[1] 1 gram of salt (from the kitchen table) to 1 liter of distilled water. That's 1000ppm. If you had a pen now, that would tell you the total PPM of you water. But, you'd still need to know what those PPMs are (by finding the water quality report, or calling your provider.).

[1] I have a Horizon PRO-20B. It measures up to 20g with 0.001 resolution. Costs $22. But, that's more precise than necessary. I have a Horizon HB-01 (100g with 0.01 resoluton). It costs $12. That's plenty good for weighing the salt for the PPM calibration, or your nutrients if you mix different products together. A company called "anyvolume" sells these.

I don't think $1599 for an electric ph meter is a bad investment, you may have been lucky, I hope you stay lucky, really I do, but for that small price in less than a min I can tell how my plants are really running, shure you can observe your plants, me I want to know.

Edinburgh said:

I don't think $1599 for an electric ph meter is a bad investment, you may have been lucky, I hope you stay lucky, really I do, but for that small price in less than a min I can tell how my plants are really running, shure you can observe your plants, me I want to know.

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My first grow Haha I hope I can make it pass the seedling stage at least, but in learning quick that these plants are more than just plant and grow

Edinburgh said:

I don't think $1599 for an electric ph meter is a bad investment, you may have been lucky, I hope you stay lucky, really I do, but for that small price in less than a min I can tell how my plants are really running, sure you can observe your plants, me I want to know.

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I agree. I could have never gotten to ph-less without having a ph-pen. It took awhile for me to realize I was feeding too strongly, not enough volume, etc. Without seeing runoff ph, and adjusting my nutrient ph to compensate... I would have had failed grows. (I even poured ph 11 water through the soil to correct what I later figure out was salt build up.). It would have been scary to not have that insight. Seeing the ph helped me put the pieces together, straighten out my nutrient strength (and runoff volume).

But, pH'ing has its downsides too. PH-up products typically contain fertilizer (potassium?). They don't show it on the label because it's not sold as a fertilizer. But, when using ph-UP you add salts to the soil. In my case, I was trying to fix a ph problem that was due to too strong nutrients. The more the salts built up in the soil, and the runoff was more acid (and my ph soil probe showed it going south)... I added more ph-up. Which added more salts to the soil.

For me, it was like a breath of fresh air to unwind all that. Feed less, see my runoff ppms remain in a sane range; my soil probe showing good ph; the runoff ph not meaning anything anymore.... At that point, it didn't take much ph-up to move the nutrient solution because it wasn't too strong. Which suggested to me that it wouldn't move the soil ph (i.e, the ph-up wasn't doing much to it, any more than the soil would do to it.). That's why I cut the cord with my ph pen. I just mix nutrients an pour it in. I keep an eye on runoff ppm to make sure I'm not feeding too strong (or getting too little runoff). I rarely look at that anymore since I have it all dialed in.

But, I agree. If the OP continues to have problems, a pH pen will be a necessary part of understanding all the variables.