Yellow Slime in Recirculating Hydro

  • Thread starter Dr.Pepper
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ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
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I've had all the slime troubles in my RDWC system, so I'll give you the rundown on what worked for me. First, get the water temps down. Nothing else will work- especially beneficial bacteria- until the water temp is at least in the mid 60s, and preferably between 60 and 64. If it rises during your day cycle that's okay, but it needs to get that cold every day at least once.

The cooler the water, the MORE dissolved oxygen it can hold, which encourages bennies including aerobic bacteria, micchorhyzae and so fort, and discourages pathogens, which are generally anaerobic and don't do well in highly oxygenated environments. That's why you need the water to be colder- but not too cold, as below 60 degrees will slow the growth of your plants and provides no additional oxygenation or pest control benefits.

Just as you can't stir much sugar into cold tea but you can easily dissoolve a bunch into warm tea, you can't oxygenate warm water enough to keep the nasties down. H2O2, DM Zone, Regen-a-root, I've tried them all in high temps and they just don't work.

If you can't cover the expense of a chiller right away, then find other sources of cold water, and if you live north of 60 like your tagline says I'll bet your house water is nice and cold right now, so try this; run a coil of copper or aluminum pipe in your reservior, and pass house water through that coil. You could even run that house water back into your household water system afterwards with no ill effects other than a bit of pressure drop. Or run to waste as needed. The water will not mix with the nutes in your res but it will suck heat out, fast. Circulating the water in your res will speed up this process. If your res is smaller, this won't take long, and it will work until your household water warms up in the summer.

Once your res temp is where it should be, a little DM zone OR beneficials (not both!) will keep everything humming along smoothly.

Lastly, I would not add anything into your reservoir that pathogens might see as food, so no molasses or carbs. If you need to use them to grow a batch of bennies, do that before adding to your res.
 
GR33NL3AF

GR33NL3AF

1,904
263
Im under the impression that if you add beneficials to a rockwool hydro system their isnt any organic matter for the beneficials to work with and they fail. Temps arnt an issue for me so I am going to run H202 on a regular basis, I have access to 35%. Im using a 100 gal res with 3 airstones and 1 circulating pump.
 
Dr.Pepper

Dr.Pepper

233
43
I've had all the slime troubles in my RDWC system, so I'll give you the rundown on what worked for me. First, get the water temps down. Nothing else will work- especially beneficial bacteria- until the water temp is at least in the mid 60s, and preferably between 60 and 64. If it rises during your day cycle that's okay, but it needs to get that cold every day at least once.

The cooler the water, the MORE dissolved oxygen it can hold, which encourages bennies including aerobic bacteria, micchorhyzae and so fort, and discourages pathogens, which are generally anaerobic and don't do well in highly oxygenated environments. That's why you need the water to be colder- but not too cold, as below 60 degrees will slow the growth of your plants and provides no additional oxygenation or pest control benefits.

Just as you can't stir much sugar into cold tea but you can easily dissoolve a bunch into warm tea, you can't oxygenate warm water enough to keep the nasties down. H2O2, DM Zone, Regen-a-root, I've tried them all in high temps and they just don't work.

If you can't cover the expense of a chiller right away, then find other sources of cold water, and if you live north of 60 like your tagline says I'll bet your house water is nice and cold right now, so try this; run a coil of copper or aluminum pipe in your reservior, and pass house water through that coil. You could even run that house water back into your household water system afterwards with no ill effects other than a bit of pressure drop. Or run to waste as needed. The water will not mix with the nutes in your res but it will suck heat out, fast. Circulating the water in your res will speed up this process. If your res is smaller, this won't take long, and it will work until your household water warms up in the summer.

Once your res temp is where it should be, a little DM zone OR beneficials (not both!) will keep everything humming along smoothly.

Lastly, I would not add anything into your reservoir that pathogens might see as food, so no molasses or carbs. If you need to use them to grow a batch of bennies, do that before adding to your res.

Thanks a lot for your response!

i will keep your advice/experience in mind. As soon as i can afford it, i WILL be buying a Chiller but till then i will have to make due with topping off my rez with 4L of Ice and DM Zone.... i can keep the Rez temp at 72F is that still do-able??
 
pRiMo303

pRiMo303

541
93
Im not sure how much a chiller will cost you, but you can make a wort chiller similar to what ttystikk was talking about. Check out any homebrew site (Austin Homebrew and Midwest are good sites) or go to the hardware store and make your own.
 
F

FTWx561

28
3
Im not sure how much a chiller will cost you, but you can make a wort chiller similar to what ttystikk was talking about. Check out any homebrew site (Austin Homebrew and Midwest are good sites) or go to the hardware store and make your own.


If you are getting the brown slime (Cyanobacteria), lowering the temperature will not always solve the issue. The batcteria can flourish in low light, cold and oxygentaed environments.I was getting it in Res's running at 60F. I started troubleshooting the system and for me it appeared to be a combination organic nutes (pureblend pro) and zymes (cannazyme, and hygrozyme) I switched to chemical nutrients (jacks professional) and benneficial tea (capulator's tea packs) and I have not seen the problem since even with res temps over 68F. I have also been running cheap submersible bio filters to give the bennies a place to live.

Just FYI from my experience and anectdotal evidence on the web zyme type products tend to make the issue worse.

Ttystikk was right on with the DM zone as that works for a lot as well but would eliminate the benefit of running nutes containing organic matter.
 

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