Yellowing Around Outside Of Leaf

[Stevena12345]

Hello there. I was having the outside of some of my leafs turn yellow and some of the edges of my leafs curling upword. Here is a very recent pic. I thought the leafs curling upword could be hotspots, or something similar. And the yellowing around the outside seems to just be on the older leafs. Thanks for any feedback.

 

[Stevena12345]

In case that picture is to small here is a bigger sized one to examine.

 

[Toaster79]

How far away are your lights?

 

[Stevena12345]

How far away are your lights?

They are roughly 12-15 inches, but I'm only running a 600 watt hood.

 

[Toaster79]

Well if the heat isnt a problem than I would say you have pest problem. To start with check your roots. From what I've learnd here this looks like RA infestation. But I might be wrong since I'm not an expert. Sure some of the more experienced guys will chime in. You really need to provide more info about your grow like temperatures, Rh, medium, nutes ...

 

[Seamaiden]

Too little information to go from, and I can't make out any coloration changes in those photos.

This does not resemble a root aphid infestation in my experience. It does look like there are issues with vapor pressure deficit, but I can't speak to the yellowing.

 

[Stevena12345]

My roots are white as fuck and massive. And I'm using h202. Haven't seen any sign of any pests. But I will check more once my lights come back on. I'm growing in a 5 X 5 tent. Rather small and I will not be using it again as it is very hard to move around in. I've read certain places that it could be a mag def. But I sprayed with Epsom salt to make sure that wasn't the case. 2

 

[Stevena12345]

My temperature is around 72-74 when lights are on. 64-66 when lights are off. My relative humidity is around 42-44. Im using Canna Aqua Flakes A and B. I looked into the whole vapor pressure deficit and I feel like my numbers shouldn't indicate that but at the same time it does look like it. Ive never had this issue and im never growing in a tent again after this. Plus its hard as fuck to move around in the small area. Any other information you need?

 

[Stevena12345]

My ppms have been rather low around 425-450. Im about to do a water change and I will boost that up more towards 600. The picture I attached here should give you a good indication. I believe now that it has something to do with me spraying with h202, I also used humic acid in the mix and I realized that was dumb. I think my leafs need to be sprayed with fresh water and rinsh them off from multiple sprays of h202. That combined with perhaps hotspots and the small area of my tent has effected the leafs. Does that make sense? Some of the tips of my leafs are burnt as well. And this has only gotten worse the last 24 hrs so I believe it to be that and im going to freshly spray my plants. Hopefully things look better then as I believe they will, but I still have the issue with the leafs curling upward from one of my previously pictures. You mentioning the VPR ratio and it potentially being at a deficit sounded right on, especially sense it says that it mimics a Mag-Def. Which I thought this was from the beginning. Ill see how things look after a fresh spray. Im also putting a new oscilatting fan over my canopy to ensure there are no hotspots. That leaves the VPR like I just said but it seems like I am within the right ratio at 73 and 42-45 humidity. Ive never had these issues and that's why I thought a lot of this had to do with the small tent I was using. My rootz literally look amazing. Huge and all white, even my branches look bulky with no discoloration on my main branches and side branches. So I think a fresh spray will help a lot. Let me know if I have valued my VPR at a wrong ratio. If I haven't then all I can really come up with is that I have hotspots, which should go away due to added the oscilating fan over the canopy, or another micronutrient def. SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO FUCKING FRUSTRATING... at day 21 this run had the biggest colas ive ever had at that point. Thought I Was going to hit 2 lbs or something under this 600 watt lol. But analyzing things now I realize I may have overdone it with the h202, and I don't think you can ever use h202 with a humic acid during a folial sprays. Makes complete sense now. Also I am about 12-15 inches away from the canopy, just as something added information. I believe I have been much more complete with my run and the information I have provided here. Ill touch base tomorrow and see what is mentioned. See how things look after I rinse the leafs off right now. Give it 24 hrs and post what has occurred. Im thinking because my root mass is so big and healthy, that ususally will indicate your plants bouncing back at a quicker rate. Your rootz is where everything lies, just don't over fertilize or burn like it seems like I did with h202 and the leafs lol. Im a dumbass and should know better with how professional my setup is and the effort and time I put into it. I scrog the fuck out of my shit like no other all top buds and lollipop. OOOPS I mean more like super lollypop. 100 top budz one fucking plant. Im not fucking around when it comes to my techniques and my approach and work ethic. I stop at nothing to ensure everything is addressed. But all it takes is one fucking thing to be off and everything can be a mess and waste of time. REAL TALK. Appreciate the feedback, check the most recent pic out and give your opinion. Word. Thanks.

 

[symbiote420]

Like Sea said it looks more like a humidity issue to me too! Are your fans blowing directly on your plants? I always up my K around this time of year as the humidity drops in my neck of the woods to help offset the problem. It's good to know it's not RA

 

[Stevena12345]

I had my oscilating fan fall over and break, so for the last week or two ive just been using two fans that don't oscilate and aren't fully blowing over the top of the canopy. I just fixed that tonight. Now I have a fan properly blowing over the canopy and things seem to look a little better. My humidity is always between 40-50%, so unless my humidity reader is wrong, I don't see how I would have a problem there. Im pretty sure the yellowing and the burnt tips were from overuse of h202 especially along with humic acid the last 48 hrs. If anyone else has experienced any of that from my picture due to a nutrient def. Please chime in. I believe all of that will stop now that I have sprayed with fresh water. BUT STILL my only problem still remains the edges of my leafs curling up. Could this be from perhaps the top of whats covering my hydro bucket not fully being enclosed and all the aeration from the air stones constantly being on causing this. I sat and pondered for quite a while earlier after a phatty purple haze blunt and got in depth mentally with this bullshit problem ive never had before lol. I was thinking because im running this smaller tent, that because things are enclosed that could be causing some issues.

 

[toquer]

Have you looked at the VPD chart. You are in the red dude. Red is bad. Raise the humidity or drop the temps.

 

[Stevena12345]

Yea Ive been checking that out lately. Guess I was a little off. That chart is very intriguing to me. So for someone running there room at 76 degrees they seriously keep there humidity at 60%. Wouldn't that cause mold or mildew to grow? I just always thought never really let your humidity get higher then 50-55 to prevent that. What do you run your room at?

 

[kolah]

side question, not to hi-jack or anything but is that VPD chart for indoor grows only? ??

I always thought rh and temps had different sweet-zones in regards to veg versus flower cycles.

 

[sixstring]

side question, not to hi-jack or anything but is that VPD chart for indoor grows only? ??

I always thought rh and temps had different sweet-zones in regards to veg versus flower cycles.

it must be,because those factors are uncontrollable outside :) i was just listening to a vid where he talked about that chart and how it stopped transpiration on the leaf surface which caused other problems with nute uptake so its probably not as important as every other factor within the plant.i run veg at 30-40%rh and flower never goes above 40% and normally is around 30% somtimes less.im sure it plays a part in how much my plants drink but they seem happy and i never have budrot or pm problems.i think those vdp numbers are designed for fast veg growth and could get new growers into trouble during flower if there rooms are not dialed in all other areas.just my thoughts so dont bite my head off guys :)

 

[Stevena12345]

Yea exactly sixstring... I always thought it was better to keep your flower at or below 40%... So that chart would say complete otherwise... I thought that if the humidity was lower the plants would uptake more water and therefore give you more bud growth. I would feel pretty worried about running my room at for example 75-76 degrees and having to keep the humidity at 60%. That would breed mildew I would think.

 

[kolah]

it must be,because those factors are uncontrollable outside :) i was just listening to a vid where he talked about that chart and how it stopped transpiration on the leaf surface which caused other problems with nute uptake so its probably not as important as every other factor within the plant.i run veg at 30-40%rh and flower never goes above 40% and normally is around 30% somtimes less.im sure it plays a part in how much my plants drink but they seem happy and i never have budrot or pm problems.i think those vdp numbers are designed for fast veg growth and could get new growers into trouble during flower if there rooms are not dialed in all other areas.just my thoughts so dont bite my head off guys :)

Agree.

 

[toquer]

I thought that if the humidity was lower the plants would uptake more water and therefore give you more bud growth.

Yes they uptake more water but at what cost? The increased uptake in water does not yield an increase in bud growth, quite the opposite actually.
The mechanism for the plant to regulate it's environment is costly to the plant. It requires K to open and close the stomata which require P to transport the O needed to do so which drives the Ca use up because I'd the movement of water from the soil to the atmosphere. Notice no C or N has been fixed in this scenario so no growth has taken place, just an expenditure of energy.
Is more costly to grow this way that's where VPD helps.
Humidity is an issue without air flow and mainly an issue just as lights go out.
When the lights go out the plant stops photosynthesis and the turgor pressure drops substantially. Then the plants exhale as the temperature drops pushing more moisture into the air as the stomata close. The leaves sit down and the plants shields itself from the environment. This is when mildew and bud rot can set in. It is in this time that humidity must be brought down to 40% or so to avoid those issues. Look at the VPD chart and remain at 1.09 to 1.22 at all hours.
VPD above 1.22 means you are pulling more moisture aka water from the soil through the plant for the "recommended" feeding cycles. VPD below 1.0 means the plant is not breathing and you are creating an anaerobic rhizosphere.

 

[FooDoo]

I'm a little too stoned to read thru everyone's responses but that looks like calcium problems. I'd get that when I followed nutw labels directions and the ratios would be out of whack. Either calcium toxicity or calcium def due to some kind of.lock out

 

[vek11]

Your issue is basically light stress, just raise your lights a few inches it shows in your leaves bro. Also an abundance of p or k will give a false mag deficiency! During bloom plants secrete enzymes that promote bacteria at the root zone which helps the uptake if elements needed for flower and sugar production. During this process an abundance or change can bring about all sorts of symptoms. Try the light distance first then process if elimination. Any additional questions feel free.