Classic Remix
- 1,800
- 263
i use my food saver bag sealer's hose attachment for my purges. yes it works
B
blaze-0
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I
So what exactly do u have to do? I'm a newbie, any help would b appreciated
orbad
- 262
- 43
They also make the food savers that stick to the outside of the bags as well. I wonder if it has enough suction to make a difference?
Would be pretty easy to drill a hole in the lid of a Mason jar. I doubt it really pulls that much vacuum to make a difference in purging.
Would be pretty easy to drill a hole in the lid of a Mason jar. I doubt it really pulls that much vacuum to make a difference in purging.
B
blaze-0
- 7
- 1
U dont even have to drill a hole in lid, there's an attachment that fits right on top of the mason jar...it sucks all the air out. If you did it 5 or 6 times I'm sure it would work
B
blaze-0
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- 1
Can u tell me how to make it please?
Glab120
- 127
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I actually made an entire form describing how I built it. It's called DIY vacuum purging station.
B
blaze-0
- 7
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S
So all I need is a 3cfm vacuum pump
A 3 gallon stainless steel vacuum chamber
And a ball valve....
Is that it?
So all I need is a 3cfm vacuum pump
A 3 gallon stainless steel vacuum chamber
And a ball valve....
Is that it?
recordsnherb
- 30
- 8
ok guys super newb question im sure but im trying to figure out if my assumptions are correct, basically every sample of wax ive gotten from a club or caregiver with the exception of one ive taken a .2 size dab and put my lighter to it, and everytime it looks like a gddamn 4th of july sparkler. this is butane, lots, correct? i understand mayber water can give that off too but idk? when i make mine its in a hot water bath for maybe 30-40 mins then sits on a griddle at about 140 for roughly 7 hrs a day for about 5-6 days, pyrex never gets above 110. i dont do any agitation besides popping bubbles. then i scrape and its nice golden and the consistency of what i would consider shatter, drop it on the table it breaks. i light it up and it does nothing but bubble and melt. the feel of the high is much different than other waxes i try, feels clean and less paranoia. is what im doing wrong per se, time and low heat no agitation as opposed to vac purge? i also hear of people baking there bho after the bath, seems awfully scary to me
Graywolf
- 1,597
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Water will definitely make a sparkler out of BHO. Put some reclaim oil from your water pipe on a wire and stick it in the flame to watch. Even with no visiable water present, it burns erratically and with sparkles.
35 to 42 hours at 140F should be an adequate purge.
You might consider thinning out the oil puddle and cutting the time back to find the sweet spot where the taste of butane is gone and THC is maximized.
35 to 42 hours at 140F should be an adequate purge.
You might consider thinning out the oil puddle and cutting the time back to find the sweet spot where the taste of butane is gone and THC is maximized.
We Solidarity
- 1,610
- 263
I've done it every way - I get similar results with a water bath and vac purge as I do with a long purge and low heat.
I think it's all about maintaining a stable but high (135-165) degree temperature throughout the process, for two reasons.
1) to evaporate the butane
which is sorta silly because butane violently boils off at any temperature over 34 degrees F. As long as you're keeping your plate warm enough to keep the oil viscous there should be absolutely no reason any butane is left in the oil. What will be left over are the by-products of butane evaporation, which are usually a little bit of water and some petroleum distillates. (assuming you're using butane you bought at a headshop and not your local N-butane distributor)
if you're spraying batches larger than an ounce you may have to worry about further purging, but remember at room temperature butane is a gas, and it evaporates much quicker than the oil you are making cools down.
when I spray I use a level in my dish, that way everything puddles in the middle, where the heat is most stable and where it is easiest to work with.
2) to decarboxylate the THCA into THC.
by heating your oil, you're basically removing the carboxylic acid chain in the THCA, which will convert into THC that your body can absorb. Most THC in a plant that's not in a trichome is stored as THCA. When thc-a is converted it gives off carbon dioxide and hydrogen -if there is alot of THCA to convert during the "purge" you may wind up with small bubbles of carbon dioxide in your oil. no biggie.
I've heard it works quite well to decarb your starting material in the oven for 20-45 minutes between 150 and 200. Great yields and flavor but oil comes out slightly darker due to the possibility of flavonoids being present.
when it comes to decarbing, anything longer than an hour and lower temp than 180 works just fine. Longer purges at lower temps will make the most consistently clear and shatter oil in my experience.
I think it's all about maintaining a stable but high (135-165) degree temperature throughout the process, for two reasons.
1) to evaporate the butane
which is sorta silly because butane violently boils off at any temperature over 34 degrees F. As long as you're keeping your plate warm enough to keep the oil viscous there should be absolutely no reason any butane is left in the oil. What will be left over are the by-products of butane evaporation, which are usually a little bit of water and some petroleum distillates. (assuming you're using butane you bought at a headshop and not your local N-butane distributor)
if you're spraying batches larger than an ounce you may have to worry about further purging, but remember at room temperature butane is a gas, and it evaporates much quicker than the oil you are making cools down.
when I spray I use a level in my dish, that way everything puddles in the middle, where the heat is most stable and where it is easiest to work with.
2) to decarboxylate the THCA into THC.
by heating your oil, you're basically removing the carboxylic acid chain in the THCA, which will convert into THC that your body can absorb. Most THC in a plant that's not in a trichome is stored as THCA. When thc-a is converted it gives off carbon dioxide and hydrogen -if there is alot of THCA to convert during the "purge" you may wind up with small bubbles of carbon dioxide in your oil. no biggie.
I've heard it works quite well to decarb your starting material in the oven for 20-45 minutes between 150 and 200. Great yields and flavor but oil comes out slightly darker due to the possibility of flavonoids being present.
when it comes to decarbing, anything longer than an hour and lower temp than 180 works just fine. Longer purges at lower temps will make the most consistently clear and shatter oil in my experience.
opt1c
- 330
- 28
i toss my vac chamber in a small grow tent with an electric heater hooked up to a ronco thermostat for heated vac purging... set it at 90f and it works great and fast too
recordsnherb
- 30
- 8
thanks for the responses guys appreciate it, ill add that when i blast i use as big a pyrex as possible that will still fit into one larger for the bath and i dont just spray in the middle i go side to side while extracting, i wonder if this helps "thin out" the oil pool making evaporation easier? also i have definitely seen reclaim sparkle like crazy, but does this mean clubs are slanging either reclaim or shit with lots of butane in it for 25-30 for .5's?
Phatso305
- 1
- 1
I was talking to a friend about the HmK method but he says his method of purging takes 2 - 6 days ??? anyone know anything about this ... Im going crazy because I am contemplating buying the Vacuum kit online but theres just so much info that i can't decide ... I usually do small runs of either 7g or 28g tube ... I use a Hot plate under my pyrex and keep it at around 110 - 120 but about 30 min before i get antsy and start yabadabberdoobin lol ... if anyone can help clarify whether i need a vac or not would be great ... If not just follow the HmK method and i will have fully purged wax?
We Solidarity
- 1,610
- 263
sparkles are a sign of humidity or moisture in the oil. If there are butane traces in it there's really no way to tell.
Graywolf
- 1,597
- 263
It is the water in the reclaim that makes it burn so erratically. Remove some from your own oil bubbler on a thin wire, let it get visably dry, and then stick it in a flame to observe this fire dance first hand for a comparison.
mikeb437
- 592
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Do these purging techniques result in a shatter or a wax or an oil? And can you properly purge butane without using a vac?
LittleDabbie
Supporter
- 11,813
- 438
For those who clicked hot water anything.. can you help me understand why?
Butane will absorb water at something like 30% its volume Dont quote my math im pulling this from memory atm.. But thats counter productive to what you want.. the more water in your oil the longer your gonna have to purge for or shy of that your substance is gonna be a pile of sticky tar.. i just dont get it..
A griddle and a round glass dish... no water needed.. why complicate things with trying to maintain a steady temp + the added cost of adding h20 back into your product only to have to remove that and much more in the end.
Why does the hot water continue to live on i will never understand.. Even without a vac just pyrex and a heat source.. why add more to that?
Butane will absorb water at something like 30% its volume Dont quote my math im pulling this from memory atm.. But thats counter productive to what you want.. the more water in your oil the longer your gonna have to purge for or shy of that your substance is gonna be a pile of sticky tar.. i just dont get it..
A griddle and a round glass dish... no water needed.. why complicate things with trying to maintain a steady temp + the added cost of adding h20 back into your product only to have to remove that and much more in the end.
Why does the hot water continue to live on i will never understand.. Even without a vac just pyrex and a heat source.. why add more to that?
overgrown
- 135
- 63
Because Pyrex on heat without a buffer is a nono it will shatter the pyrex . I've seen it happen
squiggly
- 3,277
- 263
1. Vac purge is the way to go--undeniably. If you can't afford a vac, don't make oil. It's that simple. Smoke or vape the bud, you'll get plenty high--I swear.
2. For a hot water bath, you're not putting water on the material. You make a bath of hot water and then you place the container with your material into that bath. The material itself never comes into contact with water. Unless you're in the desert the butane will be pulling moisture out of the air at about the higest rate it's going to anyway so you're not getting any benefit by keeping water far from it. In fact, the butane is even more hygroscopic with regard to water vapor than it is to liquid water and the air is generally more than saturated with water vapor to be pulling out plenty.
3. Butane will absorb about 3-4% of its volume in water, nowhere near 30%. As stated, it will reach this level of saturation just by being outside of a vacuum in most places in the continental US due to the ubiquity of water vapor.
4. Use a vacuum purge. Seriously. Purge it several times even.
That's absolutely correct. Try your luck at this enough times and you WILL shatter your pyrex. Pyrex must be heated fairly evenly to prevent shattering. You can get away with heating a water bath in a pyrex dish using a decent hot plate (not a griddle, please) because the water will help to even out the temperature across the entire vessel. Other than that--and preferably not even that--you should avoid applying direct heat to a pyrex dish except in an oven where all of its surfaces are being heated at roughly the same temperature.
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