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Fermented Plant Extracts and making your own nutrient line
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Plants to the rescue of plants
Maybe it's because of their wine-making heritage, but the French are obsessed with fermenting various plants into special insecticidal, bactericidal, and fungicidal brews to use on...other plants. Remember the article on brewing an extract of stinging nettles in this column?
Well, the nettle is the undisputed queen of the French gardener's vegetal fermentations. But at least a score of other plants are used as well, each for a very specific purpose which apparently has been evolved by experience. Some of them--such as pyrethrum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium, main photo above) you may have used for some time without realizing it. This plant would go unrecognized by most gardeners, yet it is the source of commercial organic pyrethrum, a well-known insecticide.
The exciting thing is that now, scientists in France are beginning to evaluate these concoctions in a serious way, and to standardize the best practices for producing and using them. Some plants, such as garlic, are not fermented but rather used in decoction (analogous to making tea) or maceration (in oil or water).
The basic method of fermentation is simple enough, which is not to say anything goes. First you need a container made of a nonreactive material. A 50-gallon plastic garbage can works fine. You need to cover your container during fermentation, but not tightly, or it might explode! Either punch some holes in your garbage can lid or cover the can with a piece of burlap or other cloth. While you can use smaller containers, 50 gallons is an optimal homeowner-scale size that is big enough to help moderate temperature extremes during fermentation.
An unheated garage or outbuilding is a good place to conduct the fermentation, the speed of which is temperature dependent. The higher the temperature--up to a point--the faster the fermentation.
The water you use is very important. The ideal source of water is rain, being free of calcareous minerals or additives such as chlorine which can retard or stop fermentation. If you must use hard well water, add a bit of vinegar to it to lower the pH. City water should be allowed to stand several days to allow the chlorine to evaporate before you use it for your extracts.
The duration of fermentation can range from a few days to a couple of weeks. When the mixture stops bubbling when you stir or otherwise move the contents, fermentation is complete. Check your brew daily.
It is imperative that you filter your extract. Doing so stops the fermentation from going too far, and also prevents globs of stuff from plugging up your sprayer or watering can when you apply the brew. Use a very fine strainer lined with cheesecloth, an old clean teeshirt, anything short of a coffee filter or other filter paper, which filters out too much.
Store your extract in stainless steel or plastic containers in a cool place, around 40-50 degrees F being ideal. French folks like to use 5-gallon plastic wine containers, appropriately enough. While a wine cellar is also an excellent place to store your extracts, make sure to label carefully!
Once you have your made your extract or infusion, you of course need to apply it. Most often, you spray it on, just as you would a conventional pesticide or foliar fertilizer, taking care to cover the undersides of leaves. But some remedies are applied as a soil drench. This is best accomplished with a good old-fashioned watering can.
Okay, now that you know the basics, here is the roster of beneficial plants and how to use them.
Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) Perennial plant with silvery, aromatic foliage.
Action. Repellent, especially against cabbage butterflies and codling moth on apples during period of egg-laying. Fungicidal against rust on currants.
Fermented extract (2 lbs. of fresh plant material to 2.5 gallons water) Undiluted for rust on currants. Undiluted sprayed on soil to repel slugs. Diluted to 10% against codling moth and cabbage worm. Note: Do not throw detritus of fermentation on compost, as it will slow its breakdown.
Fernleaf yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Perennial plant with ferny, silvery, aromatic foliage and white flowers.
Active ingredients: pro-azulene, a volatile oil; isovalerianic and salicylic acids (salicylic acid is aspirin, which is why a tea of this plant reduces pain and fever in humans.)
Action. Promotes compost breakdown; potentiates fungicides.
Cold maceration. 1 oz. of dried flowers in 1 quart of water; macerate 24 hours. Add to fungicide treatment, such as horsetail or tansy.
Garlic (Allium sativum)
Needs no explanation, except to say that garlic is perennial if left in place.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Insecticide and fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction: chop 4 oz. peeled cloves and add to 1 quart water. Bring to boil, cover and remove from heat, infuse for one hour. Strain and use without diluting. Used as a soil drench, excellent to prevent damping off of seedlings. In oil maceration: Place 4 oz. of peeled cloves and 2 T. linseed oil in a mixer or blender and pulverize. Filter, washing the filtrate (and mixing in) 1 qt. rainwater. Store one week before using. Adding a bit of soap as a surfactant before spraying is useful. Effective against aphids and mites.
Note: This is a great use for spare garlic at the end of the winter storage season, which is beginning to sprout and taste unpalatable.
Cocklebur (Arctium lappa). Infamous biennial weed.
Active ingredients. Tanins, mucilage, resins, sulfate and potassium phosphate, calcium, and magnesium.
Action. Fungicide effective against mildew on potatoes.
Preparation. Use the whole plant before flowering. The root has the most active ingredients. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Attention: strong odor! Filter and dilute to 5% before spraying on potato foliage. Also, just pick the leaves and use them as a mulch on your potatoes.
Nasturtium (Trapaeolum majus). Flowering annual.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Fungicidal against canker on tree fruits. Insectifuge against white fly (repellent).
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 quarts of water. Boil water, add leaves, infuse like tea one hour. Use undiluted on fruit trees. Dilute to 30% to spray tomatos against mildew.
Comfreys (Symphytum officinalis, S. x uplandicum). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Allantoin, which stimulates cell multiplication. This is why allantoin is such an excellent ingredient for skin creams, especially for chapped skin.
Action.Comfrey is a powerful stimulator of all cell multiplication, e.g. growth. It stimulates microbial growth in the soil, and in compost, thus acting as an 'activator'. Comfrey stimulates seedling development as well as foliar growth.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. of fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. As a soil drench, dilute to 20%; as a foliar fertilizer and seedling fertilizer, dilute to 5%.
Spurge (Euphorbia lathyris). Hardy perennial.
Active ingredient. Euphorbone.
Action. Repels moles and voles, but must be prepared and sprayed to be effective. Having the plant on your property does not suffice.
Preparation. In fermented extract, harvest the stems and leaves; the terminals have the most active ingredient, from April to October. Caution! The milky sap of this plant causes skin irritations! Wear long-cuffed gloves to protect your hands and arms. Use 2 lbs. fresh plant material per 2.5 gals. of water. Spray around cultivated areas.
Bracken fern and male fern. (Pteridium aquilinum, Dryopteris felix-mas). Perennial plant.
Action. Insecticide and insectifuge.
Active ingredients. Gallic and acetic acids; tannin; cyanogenic heterosides; potassium; aldehydes transformed to methaldehydes after fermentation.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs of fresh leaves to 2.5 gal. of water. May be fermented simultaneously with nettle or horsetail. Dilute to 10% before spraying. Effective against some pests of potato and grape, very effective against wooly aphid. Note: bracken fern is indigenous in many areas, especially in well-drained acid soils, and is often considered invasive, as it is rhizomatous.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Over 250 different compounds!
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material per 2.5 gal. of water, dilute to 10% before using. For dried material, use 7 oz.
In simple infusion, use 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. of water, or 2/3 oz. of dried plant material per quart.
Note: If you live in a cool climate, your lavender will be less potent than that grown in a hot climate. Double the quantities or use dried plant material from a southern source.
English ivy (Hedera helix). Perennial vine.
Active ingredient. Heteroside which is liberated during fermentation.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against white fly, spider mites, and aphids.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. chopped leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. In observing fermentation, don't confuse the foam caused by the saponins in the leaves with the gas bubbles of fermentation. Dilute to 5% before spraying. Beekeepers in the 18th century rubbed their hands with ivy to protect themselves from bee stings. Caution! The extract is toxic and must be kept out of the reach of children. Also, many people are allergic to the sap of ivy and/or to the fine hairs on the reverse of the leaves. Wear gloves to protect yourself.
Lemon balm. (Melissa officinalis). Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredient. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, mosquitos, white fly, and ants.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray without diluting. Note: Do not use on seedling beds as it can prevent germination of seedlings.
Peppermint. (Mentha piperita) Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against aphids.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray undiluted.
In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Ferments extremely fast. Dilute to 10% before using. Note: Impedes germination so don't use on seedling beds.
Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. A cocktail of ingredients still poorly analyzed but including formic acid, as well as iron, nitrogen, and many trace minerals. Acts as an immunostimulant for plants.
Action. Strongly stimulant to both microbial and plant growth, thus a compost activator as well as fertiliser. Insectifuge and sometimes insecticide against aphids, mites, and other pests.
Preparation. Use of the whole plant before flowering. Studies have shown that including the roots adds a fungicidal action to the extract. In fermented extract (the famous purin d'ortie), 2 lbs. of fresh plant in 2.5 gal. of water, fermented for a few days only. Dilute to 20% before using as soil drench or foliar feed. Use full strength as a natural herbicide (it kills with 'fertilizer burn' because it is so rich). Soak bareroot plants for 30 minutes in the pure extract or for 12 hours in a 20% dilution before planting to stimulate rapid establishment and vigor.
The nettle reigns supreme among plants for fermentation in France. The fermented extract is sold commercially in garden centers, and clubs and associations of nettle fanatics exist throughout France. Needless to say perhaps, but wear gloves when handling nettles. It's not for nothing they're called 'stinging.'
Horsetail. (Equisetum arvense). Perennial plant and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Diverse alkaloids, nicotinic acid, silica.
Action. Insectifuge, preventive fungicide, plant tonic and growth stimulant.
Preparation. In decoction, boil 1 lb. of fresh plant with 5 qts. of water for 1 hour, allow to infuse 12 hours, filter and dilute to 20%.
In fermented extract, 1/2 lb. of dried plant in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 5% before using.
Horsetail, along with nettle and fern, form the Big Three among medicinal plants for plants, according to the French. I remember my Swiss grandmother gathering horsetail and drying it in pillowcases for use in astringent poultices.
Pyrethrum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium, main photo above). Perennial.
Active ingredient. Pyrethrins.
Action. Insecticide against aphids, cabbage fly, whitefly, carrot fly, and others. Does not hurt bees.
Preparation. Harvest the flowers when open, and dry them. In infusion, use 1 oz. in 2 qts. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, use 3 oz. in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 20%. Spray after sundown or in very early morning.
Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)
Perennial culinary herb.
Active ingredients. Sulfuric heteroside, glucosinolate.
Action. Fungicide against blackspot on cherries.
Preparation. In infusion, 12 oz. of fresh plant material (leaves and roots chopped) in 2 1/2 gal. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 4 oz. of chopped root in 2.5 gal. of water. Use full strength on seedlings for damping off.
Rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum).
Perennial potager plant.
Active ingredients. Oxalic acid as salt of calcium.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, caterpillars, and other larvae. Repulsive to herbivores.
Preparation. In cold maceration, use 1 lb. of chopped leaves in 3 quarts of water; allow to soak 24 hours before filtering. Use full strength. This is a great way to use rhubarb leaves as you eat the stalks.
Rue (Ruta graveolens). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Tannins, heterosides, malic acid, glucosides, and others.
Action. Insecticide and repulsive.
Preparation. Harvest fresh leaves and stems before flowering. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water fermented for 10 days. Dilute to 20%. Repels mice, chipmunks, and other chewers. Spray against aphids.
Dockweed (Rumex obtusifolius). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. Have not been studied.
Action. Fungicide against canker on apples and pears.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 qts. boiling water. Filter when cool, spray full strength on cankers. Treat young trees preventatively. Spring is best time.
Soapwort Saponaria officinalis). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Saponins.
Action. Insecticide, insectifuge.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. fresh material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 10% before using.
Sage. (Salvia officinalis). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Monoterpenones, including thujone, camphor, and others, aldehydes, coumarin.
Action. Insectifuge, fungicide.
Preparation. In infusion for insectifuge, 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and use full strength. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh leaves and terminals in 2.5 gal. of water, diluted to 10%, against mildew on potatoes.
Common elderberry (Sambucus nigra). Large shrub to small tree.
Active ingredients. Sambucine.
Action. Powerful repellant; fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction, 2 lbs. of leaves soaked for 24 hours in 2.5 gal. of water, then boiled for 30 minutes. Spray undiluted against aphids, beetles, caterpillars. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. Use undiluted against shelf fungus infections on trees.
Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare). Perennial plant (invasive in sandy soils).
Active ingredients. Not studied.
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide, fungicide against rust and mildew.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Use nondiluted against cabbage fly. In infusion, 1 oz. of flowers in 1 qt. of boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted against aphids, mildew, and rust. Caution: don't throw residues on compost as tansy inhibits its breakdown.
This season, why not experiment with this new (old) dimension of organic treatments? It's not only we humans who stand to benefit from medicinal herbs. The power of plants can come to the rescue of fellow plants as well!
Maybe it's because of their wine-making heritage, but the French are obsessed with fermenting various plants into special insecticidal, bactericidal, and fungicidal brews to use on...other plants. Remember the article on brewing an extract of stinging nettles in this column?
Well, the nettle is the undisputed queen of the French gardener's vegetal fermentations. But at least a score of other plants are used as well, each for a very specific purpose which apparently has been evolved by experience. Some of them--such as pyrethrum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium, main photo above) you may have used for some time without realizing it. This plant would go unrecognized by most gardeners, yet it is the source of commercial organic pyrethrum, a well-known insecticide.
The exciting thing is that now, scientists in France are beginning to evaluate these concoctions in a serious way, and to standardize the best practices for producing and using them. Some plants, such as garlic, are not fermented but rather used in decoction (analogous to making tea) or maceration (in oil or water).
The basic method of fermentation is simple enough, which is not to say anything goes. First you need a container made of a nonreactive material. A 50-gallon plastic garbage can works fine. You need to cover your container during fermentation, but not tightly, or it might explode! Either punch some holes in your garbage can lid or cover the can with a piece of burlap or other cloth. While you can use smaller containers, 50 gallons is an optimal homeowner-scale size that is big enough to help moderate temperature extremes during fermentation.
An unheated garage or outbuilding is a good place to conduct the fermentation, the speed of which is temperature dependent. The higher the temperature--up to a point--the faster the fermentation.
The water you use is very important. The ideal source of water is rain, being free of calcareous minerals or additives such as chlorine which can retard or stop fermentation. If you must use hard well water, add a bit of vinegar to it to lower the pH. City water should be allowed to stand several days to allow the chlorine to evaporate before you use it for your extracts.
The duration of fermentation can range from a few days to a couple of weeks. When the mixture stops bubbling when you stir or otherwise move the contents, fermentation is complete. Check your brew daily.
It is imperative that you filter your extract. Doing so stops the fermentation from going too far, and also prevents globs of stuff from plugging up your sprayer or watering can when you apply the brew. Use a very fine strainer lined with cheesecloth, an old clean teeshirt, anything short of a coffee filter or other filter paper, which filters out too much.
Store your extract in stainless steel or plastic containers in a cool place, around 40-50 degrees F being ideal. French folks like to use 5-gallon plastic wine containers, appropriately enough. While a wine cellar is also an excellent place to store your extracts, make sure to label carefully!
Once you have your made your extract or infusion, you of course need to apply it. Most often, you spray it on, just as you would a conventional pesticide or foliar fertilizer, taking care to cover the undersides of leaves. But some remedies are applied as a soil drench. This is best accomplished with a good old-fashioned watering can.
Okay, now that you know the basics, here is the roster of beneficial plants and how to use them.
Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) Perennial plant with silvery, aromatic foliage.
Action. Repellent, especially against cabbage butterflies and codling moth on apples during period of egg-laying. Fungicidal against rust on currants.
Fermented extract (2 lbs. of fresh plant material to 2.5 gallons water) Undiluted for rust on currants. Undiluted sprayed on soil to repel slugs. Diluted to 10% against codling moth and cabbage worm. Note: Do not throw detritus of fermentation on compost, as it will slow its breakdown.
Fernleaf yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Perennial plant with ferny, silvery, aromatic foliage and white flowers.
Active ingredients: pro-azulene, a volatile oil; isovalerianic and salicylic acids (salicylic acid is aspirin, which is why a tea of this plant reduces pain and fever in humans.)
Action. Promotes compost breakdown; potentiates fungicides.
Cold maceration. 1 oz. of dried flowers in 1 quart of water; macerate 24 hours. Add to fungicide treatment, such as horsetail or tansy.
Garlic (Allium sativum)
Needs no explanation, except to say that garlic is perennial if left in place.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Insecticide and fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction: chop 4 oz. peeled cloves and add to 1 quart water. Bring to boil, cover and remove from heat, infuse for one hour. Strain and use without diluting. Used as a soil drench, excellent to prevent damping off of seedlings. In oil maceration: Place 4 oz. of peeled cloves and 2 T. linseed oil in a mixer or blender and pulverize. Filter, washing the filtrate (and mixing in) 1 qt. rainwater. Store one week before using. Adding a bit of soap as a surfactant before spraying is useful. Effective against aphids and mites.
Note: This is a great use for spare garlic at the end of the winter storage season, which is beginning to sprout and taste unpalatable.
Cocklebur (Arctium lappa). Infamous biennial weed.
Active ingredients. Tanins, mucilage, resins, sulfate and potassium phosphate, calcium, and magnesium.
Action. Fungicide effective against mildew on potatoes.
Preparation. Use the whole plant before flowering. The root has the most active ingredients. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Attention: strong odor! Filter and dilute to 5% before spraying on potato foliage. Also, just pick the leaves and use them as a mulch on your potatoes.
Nasturtium (Trapaeolum majus). Flowering annual.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Fungicidal against canker on tree fruits. Insectifuge against white fly (repellent).
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 quarts of water. Boil water, add leaves, infuse like tea one hour. Use undiluted on fruit trees. Dilute to 30% to spray tomatos against mildew.
Comfreys (Symphytum officinalis, S. x uplandicum). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Allantoin, which stimulates cell multiplication. This is why allantoin is such an excellent ingredient for skin creams, especially for chapped skin.
Action.Comfrey is a powerful stimulator of all cell multiplication, e.g. growth. It stimulates microbial growth in the soil, and in compost, thus acting as an 'activator'. Comfrey stimulates seedling development as well as foliar growth.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. of fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. As a soil drench, dilute to 20%; as a foliar fertilizer and seedling fertilizer, dilute to 5%.
Spurge (Euphorbia lathyris). Hardy perennial.
Active ingredient. Euphorbone.
Action. Repels moles and voles, but must be prepared and sprayed to be effective. Having the plant on your property does not suffice.
Preparation. In fermented extract, harvest the stems and leaves; the terminals have the most active ingredient, from April to October. Caution! The milky sap of this plant causes skin irritations! Wear long-cuffed gloves to protect your hands and arms. Use 2 lbs. fresh plant material per 2.5 gals. of water. Spray around cultivated areas.
Bracken fern and male fern. (Pteridium aquilinum, Dryopteris felix-mas). Perennial plant.
Action. Insecticide and insectifuge.
Active ingredients. Gallic and acetic acids; tannin; cyanogenic heterosides; potassium; aldehydes transformed to methaldehydes after fermentation.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs of fresh leaves to 2.5 gal. of water. May be fermented simultaneously with nettle or horsetail. Dilute to 10% before spraying. Effective against some pests of potato and grape, very effective against wooly aphid. Note: bracken fern is indigenous in many areas, especially in well-drained acid soils, and is often considered invasive, as it is rhizomatous.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Over 250 different compounds!
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material per 2.5 gal. of water, dilute to 10% before using. For dried material, use 7 oz.
In simple infusion, use 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. of water, or 2/3 oz. of dried plant material per quart.
Note: If you live in a cool climate, your lavender will be less potent than that grown in a hot climate. Double the quantities or use dried plant material from a southern source.
English ivy (Hedera helix). Perennial vine.
Active ingredient. Heteroside which is liberated during fermentation.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against white fly, spider mites, and aphids.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. chopped leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. In observing fermentation, don't confuse the foam caused by the saponins in the leaves with the gas bubbles of fermentation. Dilute to 5% before spraying. Beekeepers in the 18th century rubbed their hands with ivy to protect themselves from bee stings. Caution! The extract is toxic and must be kept out of the reach of children. Also, many people are allergic to the sap of ivy and/or to the fine hairs on the reverse of the leaves. Wear gloves to protect yourself.
Lemon balm. (Melissa officinalis). Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredient. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, mosquitos, white fly, and ants.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray without diluting. Note: Do not use on seedling beds as it can prevent germination of seedlings.
Peppermint. (Mentha piperita) Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against aphids.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray undiluted.
In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Ferments extremely fast. Dilute to 10% before using. Note: Impedes germination so don't use on seedling beds.
Stinging nettle (Urtica dioica). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. A cocktail of ingredients still poorly analyzed but including formic acid, as well as iron, nitrogen, and many trace minerals. Acts as an immunostimulant for plants.
Action. Strongly stimulant to both microbial and plant growth, thus a compost activator as well as fertiliser. Insectifuge and sometimes insecticide against aphids, mites, and other pests.
Preparation. Use of the whole plant before flowering. Studies have shown that including the roots adds a fungicidal action to the extract. In fermented extract (the famous purin d'ortie), 2 lbs. of fresh plant in 2.5 gal. of water, fermented for a few days only. Dilute to 20% before using as soil drench or foliar feed. Use full strength as a natural herbicide (it kills with 'fertilizer burn' because it is so rich). Soak bareroot plants for 30 minutes in the pure extract or for 12 hours in a 20% dilution before planting to stimulate rapid establishment and vigor.
The nettle reigns supreme among plants for fermentation in France. The fermented extract is sold commercially in garden centers, and clubs and associations of nettle fanatics exist throughout France. Needless to say perhaps, but wear gloves when handling nettles. It's not for nothing they're called 'stinging.'
Horsetail. (Equisetum arvense). Perennial plant and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Diverse alkaloids, nicotinic acid, silica.
Action. Insectifuge, preventive fungicide, plant tonic and growth stimulant.
Preparation. In decoction, boil 1 lb. of fresh plant with 5 qts. of water for 1 hour, allow to infuse 12 hours, filter and dilute to 20%.
In fermented extract, 1/2 lb. of dried plant in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 5% before using.
Horsetail, along with nettle and fern, form the Big Three among medicinal plants for plants, according to the French. I remember my Swiss grandmother gathering horsetail and drying it in pillowcases for use in astringent poultices.
Pyrethrum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium, main photo above). Perennial.
Active ingredient. Pyrethrins.
Action. Insecticide against aphids, cabbage fly, whitefly, carrot fly, and others. Does not hurt bees.
Preparation. Harvest the flowers when open, and dry them. In infusion, use 1 oz. in 2 qts. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, use 3 oz. in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 20%. Spray after sundown or in very early morning.
Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)
Perennial culinary herb.
Active ingredients. Sulfuric heteroside, glucosinolate.
Action. Fungicide against blackspot on cherries.
Preparation. In infusion, 12 oz. of fresh plant material (leaves and roots chopped) in 2 1/2 gal. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 4 oz. of chopped root in 2.5 gal. of water. Use full strength on seedlings for damping off.
Rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum).
Perennial potager plant.
Active ingredients. Oxalic acid as salt of calcium.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, caterpillars, and other larvae. Repulsive to herbivores.
Preparation. In cold maceration, use 1 lb. of chopped leaves in 3 quarts of water; allow to soak 24 hours before filtering. Use full strength. This is a great way to use rhubarb leaves as you eat the stalks.
Rue (Ruta graveolens). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Tannins, heterosides, malic acid, glucosides, and others.
Action. Insecticide and repulsive.
Preparation. Harvest fresh leaves and stems before flowering. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water fermented for 10 days. Dilute to 20%. Repels mice, chipmunks, and other chewers. Spray against aphids.
Dockweed (Rumex obtusifolius). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. Have not been studied.
Action. Fungicide against canker on apples and pears.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 qts. boiling water. Filter when cool, spray full strength on cankers. Treat young trees preventatively. Spring is best time.
Soapwort Saponaria officinalis). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Saponins.
Action. Insecticide, insectifuge.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. fresh material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 10% before using.
Sage. (Salvia officinalis). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Monoterpenones, including thujone, camphor, and others, aldehydes, coumarin.
Action. Insectifuge, fungicide.
Preparation. In infusion for insectifuge, 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and use full strength. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh leaves and terminals in 2.5 gal. of water, diluted to 10%, against mildew on potatoes.
Common elderberry (Sambucus nigra). Large shrub to small tree.
Active ingredients. Sambucine.
Action. Powerful repellant; fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction, 2 lbs. of leaves soaked for 24 hours in 2.5 gal. of water, then boiled for 30 minutes. Spray undiluted against aphids, beetles, caterpillars. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. Use undiluted against shelf fungus infections on trees.
Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare). Perennial plant (invasive in sandy soils).
Active ingredients. Not studied.
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide, fungicide against rust and mildew.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Use nondiluted against cabbage fly. In infusion, 1 oz. of flowers in 1 qt. of boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted against aphids, mildew, and rust. Caution: don't throw residues on compost as tansy inhibits its breakdown.
This season, why not experiment with this new (old) dimension of organic treatments? It's not only we humans who stand to benefit from medicinal herbs. The power of plants can come to the rescue of fellow plants as well!
U
Udyana Peace
- 133
- 0
dextr0
That article is a good introduction into using fermented plant material to feed the soil. These fermented extracts are 90% of what I use during both the veg and flower cycles.
This site was originally funded by the USDA ARS Program (Agriculture Research Station) at the University of Arkansas (I believe that's correct).
If you type in a specific element that you're looking for like say Phosphorus you'll end up with this list. As you can see beets are extremely high in Phosphorus making this a good candidate to use as a source via the fermenting process.
If you click on the link to the beet you'll end up with this list and you can see the levels of any number of elements, compounds, et al. in beets.
When using this database it's important to note the column that indicates what part of the plant was studied, leaf, flower, seed, root, etc.
Comfrey, Stinging Nettle, Yarrow, Valerian, Camomile, Lavender, et al. are available online in many forms - leaf, powder, extracts (alcohol and CO2), etc.
UP
That article is a good introduction into using fermented plant material to feed the soil. These fermented extracts are 90% of what I use during both the veg and flower cycles.
This site was originally funded by the USDA ARS Program (Agriculture Research Station) at the University of Arkansas (I believe that's correct).
If you type in a specific element that you're looking for like say Phosphorus you'll end up with this list. As you can see beets are extremely high in Phosphorus making this a good candidate to use as a source via the fermenting process.
If you click on the link to the beet you'll end up with this list and you can see the levels of any number of elements, compounds, et al. in beets.
When using this database it's important to note the column that indicates what part of the plant was studied, leaf, flower, seed, root, etc.
Comfrey, Stinging Nettle, Yarrow, Valerian, Camomile, Lavender, et al. are available online in many forms - leaf, powder, extracts (alcohol and CO2), etc.
UP
dextr0
- 1,662
- 163
Udyana Peace
Thank you VERY much. Ive actually been following some of your and Mr.bongs posts. Very informative. Glad you two are at the farm helping.
Those lists are something else. Amazing how many ppms in a plant.
"These fermented extracts are 90% of what I use during both the veg and flower cycles."
I believe it. Im trying to make it the same myself. This list brings me that much closer.
I was conversation with friend from Bulgaria yesterday. Hes having trouble with ferts. and was asking a few questions but didnt have much time. The main point is there was a little language barrier there, and he was going to be in a place with little access to ferts etc. This kind of knowledge would IMHO be of utmost importance.
To me its kind of sad that few of us will actually go out and try fermenting as fertilizers. It saves alot of $. But like I was saying the other day at the store, convenience is a Muthafucker.
Thank you VERY much. Ive actually been following some of your and Mr.bongs posts. Very informative. Glad you two are at the farm helping.
Those lists are something else. Amazing how many ppms in a plant.
"These fermented extracts are 90% of what I use during both the veg and flower cycles."
I believe it. Im trying to make it the same myself. This list brings me that much closer.
I was conversation with friend from Bulgaria yesterday. Hes having trouble with ferts. and was asking a few questions but didnt have much time. The main point is there was a little language barrier there, and he was going to be in a place with little access to ferts etc. This kind of knowledge would IMHO be of utmost importance.
To me its kind of sad that few of us will actually go out and try fermenting as fertilizers. It saves alot of $. But like I was saying the other day at the store, convenience is a Muthafucker.
U
Udyana Peace
- 133
- 0
dextr0
Gil Carandang from the Philippines is considered by many to be the 'godfather of FPE technology' - I'd include myself in that group.
The approach outlined in the article you linked to is using the traditional method of placing plant material into a barrel, fill with water and let nature take it's course. There are certainly enough bacteria on the plants themselves as well as in the atmosphere to give you the fermentation you're looking for. No doubt about that. Cheap. Effective.
Mr. Carandang takes another approach to achieve a FPE by inoculating the water with a lacto-rice serum created from the bacteria floating in the area where the farmer lives - Beneficial Indigenous Organisms (BIM) and this link will give you the necessary information on creating a lactobacillus culture with white rice and milk. Not exactly rocket science.
By adding these cultures to the fermenting barrel you are extracting far more of the compounds than you would otherwise. The biggest plus is that it reduces the smell by 90% - there is absolutely nothing more putrid than fermenting comfrey with the possible exception of fermenting dandelions. Properly used these agents could have a military application in a new weapon's program perhaps.
You can also buy the commercial product around the world called "Enhanced Microbes" based on Dr. Higa's work in Tokyo in the 1980's. It generally is sold as "EM" or "EM-1" - at any rate it is a lactobacillus culture concentrated product that has many claims to go along with their marketing program. Some are interesting to say the least. But at the core of this product are 10 lacto strains, 2 PNSB bacteria strains (purple non-sulfur bacteria) and some yeasts (Y*A*W*N - yeast are everywhere. In the air, on your skin, on leaves, the kitchen counter, the rug) and some other spurious claims.
It does work and it's fairly inexpensive and you're up and running when it arrives at your door. Mr. Carandang's process is more involved but you end up with a better base culture, IMHO.
If anyone needed proof that these extracts are effective here's one that you can have ready by tomorrow evening.
Lavender Tea - insecticide and fungicide
Take 1.5 cups of dry lavender flowers (organic) and soak this in 1 gallon of water for 36 hours (48 is better). Strain out the flowers and add to your flower bed outside. If your plants are under attack from mites or you have a serious outbreak of powdery mildew then add 1/2 cup to 1 gallon of water and spray until the leaves are hanging to the point where it looks like you haven't watered in a week or so.
For regular applications throughout the veg cycle to preclude another attack, drop the amount down to 1/4 cup of the extract to 1 gallon of water. Apply 2x per week. Adding 1/2 the recommend amount of a seaweed extract is very helpful.
Adding the appropriate amount of liquid silica will also increase the benefit from this FPE because plants use Silica to surround the affected area to stop it from spreading.
HTH
UP
Gil Carandang from the Philippines is considered by many to be the 'godfather of FPE technology' - I'd include myself in that group.
The approach outlined in the article you linked to is using the traditional method of placing plant material into a barrel, fill with water and let nature take it's course. There are certainly enough bacteria on the plants themselves as well as in the atmosphere to give you the fermentation you're looking for. No doubt about that. Cheap. Effective.
Mr. Carandang takes another approach to achieve a FPE by inoculating the water with a lacto-rice serum created from the bacteria floating in the area where the farmer lives - Beneficial Indigenous Organisms (BIM) and this link will give you the necessary information on creating a lactobacillus culture with white rice and milk. Not exactly rocket science.
By adding these cultures to the fermenting barrel you are extracting far more of the compounds than you would otherwise. The biggest plus is that it reduces the smell by 90% - there is absolutely nothing more putrid than fermenting comfrey with the possible exception of fermenting dandelions. Properly used these agents could have a military application in a new weapon's program perhaps.
You can also buy the commercial product around the world called "Enhanced Microbes" based on Dr. Higa's work in Tokyo in the 1980's. It generally is sold as "EM" or "EM-1" - at any rate it is a lactobacillus culture concentrated product that has many claims to go along with their marketing program. Some are interesting to say the least. But at the core of this product are 10 lacto strains, 2 PNSB bacteria strains (purple non-sulfur bacteria) and some yeasts (Y*A*W*N - yeast are everywhere. In the air, on your skin, on leaves, the kitchen counter, the rug) and some other spurious claims.
It does work and it's fairly inexpensive and you're up and running when it arrives at your door. Mr. Carandang's process is more involved but you end up with a better base culture, IMHO.
If anyone needed proof that these extracts are effective here's one that you can have ready by tomorrow evening.
Lavender Tea - insecticide and fungicide
Take 1.5 cups of dry lavender flowers (organic) and soak this in 1 gallon of water for 36 hours (48 is better). Strain out the flowers and add to your flower bed outside. If your plants are under attack from mites or you have a serious outbreak of powdery mildew then add 1/2 cup to 1 gallon of water and spray until the leaves are hanging to the point where it looks like you haven't watered in a week or so.
For regular applications throughout the veg cycle to preclude another attack, drop the amount down to 1/4 cup of the extract to 1 gallon of water. Apply 2x per week. Adding 1/2 the recommend amount of a seaweed extract is very helpful.
Adding the appropriate amount of liquid silica will also increase the benefit from this FPE because plants use Silica to surround the affected area to stop it from spreading.
HTH
UP
dextr0
- 1,662
- 163
Yes I actually have some LAB serum made from rice now, and will be making another batch soon. Also gathering other Indigenous microbes from a friends bamboo patch with the left over rice.
Im going to attempt to get PNSB from pitcher plant water. They sell Pitcher plants at a nursery it visit.
I have a question if you dont mind about the LAB. If im understanding you right the LAB is used to help break down plant matter in ferments?...well also to stop foul smells, but it is used to break more matter down then a plants own bacteria, enzymes?
I was using a basic recipe of equal parts plant matter and molasses plus enough water to keep about a quarter above the plant matter. I also added aprox. 1 cup LAB to mix. I would then let sit in dark cool place for aprox. 5 days or until mixture stopped bubbling when uncapped or moved around.
Did I mess this mix up with using water. I see alot of the time they will let plants ferment in own juices mixed with Brown sugar.
This is a quote I found here on using Brown sugar as opposed to Molasses in ferments:
Brown sugar
Large amount of brown sugar are used for FPJ. Remember that when the ingredient has lot of moisture ( as in summer citrus, fruits, flowers etc ), you need to add in more brown sugar. Brown sugar needed is about 1/3 to 1/2 weight of original ingredients and in cases of ingredients with high water content,1/2 weight of the original ingredients should be used. However, if you use Philippine crude sugar, it is necessary to increase the quantity used.
If it is totally impossible to obtain brown sugar, then you may use white sugar. However, refined sugar does not have much minerals or vitamins;fermentation process will be different and FPJ will be low quality. Brown sugar should be used. What is even better is crude sugar. You can also mix sun dried salt with sugar. Of course refined white salt should be avoided. Molasses contains too much water; it is not goods for generating osmotic pressure.
Im going to attempt to get PNSB from pitcher plant water. They sell Pitcher plants at a nursery it visit.
I have a question if you dont mind about the LAB. If im understanding you right the LAB is used to help break down plant matter in ferments?...well also to stop foul smells, but it is used to break more matter down then a plants own bacteria, enzymes?
I was using a basic recipe of equal parts plant matter and molasses plus enough water to keep about a quarter above the plant matter. I also added aprox. 1 cup LAB to mix. I would then let sit in dark cool place for aprox. 5 days or until mixture stopped bubbling when uncapped or moved around.
Did I mess this mix up with using water. I see alot of the time they will let plants ferment in own juices mixed with Brown sugar.
This is a quote I found here on using Brown sugar as opposed to Molasses in ferments:
Brown sugar
Large amount of brown sugar are used for FPJ. Remember that when the ingredient has lot of moisture ( as in summer citrus, fruits, flowers etc ), you need to add in more brown sugar. Brown sugar needed is about 1/3 to 1/2 weight of original ingredients and in cases of ingredients with high water content,1/2 weight of the original ingredients should be used. However, if you use Philippine crude sugar, it is necessary to increase the quantity used.
If it is totally impossible to obtain brown sugar, then you may use white sugar. However, refined sugar does not have much minerals or vitamins;fermentation process will be different and FPJ will be low quality. Brown sugar should be used. What is even better is crude sugar. You can also mix sun dried salt with sugar. Of course refined white salt should be avoided. Molasses contains too much water; it is not goods for generating osmotic pressure.
S
Shamanfarmer
- 68
- 18
This is a fantastic thread, tons of great info, i've scanned through it but i think i'm going to have to go back through several times to fully digest all the info here.
I just wanted to quickly report what i have found with my minimal experimentation with fpe's.
I recently made an fpe from a bunch of fan leaves that i had laying around, i could never bring myself to throw them away, and now i'm glad i hung onto them. I filled a 5 gallon bucked 2/3 full with the leaf, poured in a bunch of blackstrap molasses and brown sugar filled it up with water and let is sit, stiring once to twice a day.(no em inoculation) After about 5 days it stopped bubbling, i poured in another cup or so of sugar and it bubbled for about 3 more days. At that point it appeared that the majority of the nutrients in the leaves had been digested. All the plant material had turned brown which i figured meant most of what was left in solid form was cellulose, which wasnt going to break down easily. I started using it on 1 plant, starting at about 10 ml/gal. within 24 hours that plant had dramatically changed, it's color brightened up, the leaves got much shinier and it had new growth all over the place. Over the last couple of weeks i have slowly increased the dilution rate. The last time i watered it was about 2 days ago, at a rate of 30 ml/gal. the next day it had turned MUCH darker green, and the leaf tips have started to turn down, so i'm thinking is about the max dilution rate i should use, but i am going to keep playing with it to see if that is accurate.
I've also tried it on all my other plants ranging from a spider plant to pineapple sage to my Cryptorcoryne wendtii, tiger lotus and other aquatic plants in my aquarium. For the aquatic plants i diluted it 1/1 with water and injected it straight into the aquarium substrate. It turned out it was a little strong for the crypts, their little leaf tips immediately curled down, but nothing died, now they are growing like crazy. The tiger lotus loved it from the start, and it seems that it may have given it some resistance to the snails that have been continuously chewing holes in it's leaves, either that or it's just out growing the damage that the snails are causing.
Anyway, since i've had such fantastic results with that, i'm now working on a fpe batch made from Lamium purpureum (purple deadnettle) flowers, I chose this plant only because it's taken over my flower beds outside. but my hope is that an fpe made from flowers will the perfect nutrient for growing flowers. We'll see. I also have an alfalfa meal fpe in the works, it's only about 2 days in now, but it's looking very good so far.
I just wanted to quickly report what i have found with my minimal experimentation with fpe's.
I recently made an fpe from a bunch of fan leaves that i had laying around, i could never bring myself to throw them away, and now i'm glad i hung onto them. I filled a 5 gallon bucked 2/3 full with the leaf, poured in a bunch of blackstrap molasses and brown sugar filled it up with water and let is sit, stiring once to twice a day.(no em inoculation) After about 5 days it stopped bubbling, i poured in another cup or so of sugar and it bubbled for about 3 more days. At that point it appeared that the majority of the nutrients in the leaves had been digested. All the plant material had turned brown which i figured meant most of what was left in solid form was cellulose, which wasnt going to break down easily. I started using it on 1 plant, starting at about 10 ml/gal. within 24 hours that plant had dramatically changed, it's color brightened up, the leaves got much shinier and it had new growth all over the place. Over the last couple of weeks i have slowly increased the dilution rate. The last time i watered it was about 2 days ago, at a rate of 30 ml/gal. the next day it had turned MUCH darker green, and the leaf tips have started to turn down, so i'm thinking is about the max dilution rate i should use, but i am going to keep playing with it to see if that is accurate.
I've also tried it on all my other plants ranging from a spider plant to pineapple sage to my Cryptorcoryne wendtii, tiger lotus and other aquatic plants in my aquarium. For the aquatic plants i diluted it 1/1 with water and injected it straight into the aquarium substrate. It turned out it was a little strong for the crypts, their little leaf tips immediately curled down, but nothing died, now they are growing like crazy. The tiger lotus loved it from the start, and it seems that it may have given it some resistance to the snails that have been continuously chewing holes in it's leaves, either that or it's just out growing the damage that the snails are causing.
Anyway, since i've had such fantastic results with that, i'm now working on a fpe batch made from Lamium purpureum (purple deadnettle) flowers, I chose this plant only because it's taken over my flower beds outside. but my hope is that an fpe made from flowers will the perfect nutrient for growing flowers. We'll see. I also have an alfalfa meal fpe in the works, it's only about 2 days in now, but it's looking very good so far.
U
Udyana Peace
- 133
- 0
When considering a plant to use something to consider (perhaps) is whether the specific agent you're looking to extract and use is an element or a compound (some kind of string of elements).
If you're going for elements (Calcium, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Boron, Manganese, Copper, whatever) the using the lactobacillus culture method is the most direct path.
However if you're looking to extract compounds (terpenes, alkaloids, secondary metabolites, etc.) then using an enzyme is a better method. In the fermentation process brought about by the lacto cultures what happens is that the compound 'strings' are broken down to their elements and while having those elements are helpful you're not getting what you're looking for - specific 'strings' of elements.
Papain (green papaya enzyme) and/or Bromelain (pineapple enzyme) will isolate compounds and keep them intact.
HTH
UP
If you're going for elements (Calcium, Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Boron, Manganese, Copper, whatever) the using the lactobacillus culture method is the most direct path.
However if you're looking to extract compounds (terpenes, alkaloids, secondary metabolites, etc.) then using an enzyme is a better method. In the fermentation process brought about by the lacto cultures what happens is that the compound 'strings' are broken down to their elements and while having those elements are helpful you're not getting what you're looking for - specific 'strings' of elements.
Papain (green papaya enzyme) and/or Bromelain (pineapple enzyme) will isolate compounds and keep them intact.
HTH
UP
R
RotaryPowered
- 3
- 0
Gnats from HELL!!...
So I started my first single plant indoor grow and shortly after GNATS. Billions of the little root suckin f**ks, so started looking for methods of killing them from sticky pads to Dr. Doom and still they linger. Seriously the sticky pads caught at least 1,000 within a week, my friend with more experience than myself said he's never seen or heard of it ever getting so outta control. So started researching ran across Damascous earth, tobacco tea and soap sprays (mostly ammonia based) and they all seemed a bit harsh for my plant. Until I found some info on Lactobacillus and ever since have been overwhelmed with sooooo much incredible information.
So my first question is can anyone structure most of the basics, maybe give me a step by step on what I should read/learn first so I'm not overwhelmed (I appologize for having to ask this but am at a lose).
Secondly I started my first LB colonization stupidly though I didn't wait for my tap water to dechlorinate when making the rice water just a quick simmer, but followed through with it anyway, added the milk about three days ago (was expecting a foul stench so I dug a hole in the ground and put it there, I live in az so temps aren't too extreme at this time) but yesterday I took it out of the ground was supprised with the lack of smell and put it in my closet. When I pulled it from the ground I noticed there wasent a lot of coagulation, yet today it's extremely, so I think it's working but need experienced input on my situation.
Thanks guys, Mark
So I started my first single plant indoor grow and shortly after GNATS. Billions of the little root suckin f**ks, so started looking for methods of killing them from sticky pads to Dr. Doom and still they linger. Seriously the sticky pads caught at least 1,000 within a week, my friend with more experience than myself said he's never seen or heard of it ever getting so outta control. So started researching ran across Damascous earth, tobacco tea and soap sprays (mostly ammonia based) and they all seemed a bit harsh for my plant. Until I found some info on Lactobacillus and ever since have been overwhelmed with sooooo much incredible information.
So my first question is can anyone structure most of the basics, maybe give me a step by step on what I should read/learn first so I'm not overwhelmed (I appologize for having to ask this but am at a lose).
Secondly I started my first LB colonization stupidly though I didn't wait for my tap water to dechlorinate when making the rice water just a quick simmer, but followed through with it anyway, added the milk about three days ago (was expecting a foul stench so I dug a hole in the ground and put it there, I live in az so temps aren't too extreme at this time) but yesterday I took it out of the ground was supprised with the lack of smell and put it in my closet. When I pulled it from the ground I noticed there wasent a lot of coagulation, yet today it's extremely, so I think it's working but need experienced input on my situation.
Thanks guys, Mark
R
RotaryPowered
- 3
- 0
One more for you guys, the holy Chia seed. Has anyone experimented with it? I was thinking making a meal ie crushing into a dust and fermenting it... These things are incredible without fermentation, and would like to share with my plants any insights?
J
jacksonF
- 23
- 0
Great Thread
For the last 5 years I have been using beneficial microbes in commercial dairies and commercial agriculture and am very familiar with EM, now known as Terra Gaunix. In fact, they stole the business I developed and are running a pump and dump operation. It is a good product, a bad company and stuck on the evolutionary path.
I still brew bugs from time to time, but that is a whole other story. Got a stainless steel 1000 gal. bulk tank for sale.
This is a great thread because biologically managed agriculture is our only hope and gratitude to those evolving the technology here.
One of the reasons why there is so much contention in Japan around EM products is that Dr. Higa divulged 1000 year old secret Japanese technology to us barbarians. The secret is in the mix of microbes used and the energetic response. Let me explain.
We all know that acupuncture works although our culture is not into energetic meridians.I always wondered why if I gave EM to a cow, it would get rid of the pathogens and make the output fermented . . not putrid.
Here is the theory.
The mixture of microbes resonates at a frequency that is 'beneficial' in systems. In our bodies, 10% are good, 10% are bad and the remaining 80% are opportunistic that will side with who is winning. So when you introduce this mixture, the 80% resonate 'good', the bad stand out like a bright light on a dark night and are eliminated.
These mixtures are generally probiotic antioxidant mixtures that provide all the enzymes, amino acids, polysacarides et all required by the plants. I have seen magic happen in a chemically managed chili field with just the introduction of these bugs.
The theft of my business was a gift (everything is) that took me further along this journey . . there are no silver bullets. I discovered a supramolecular humic acid, began to work with Mycorizzal fungi, got into biochar and am developing soil additives.
A good source for many organic nutrients is Soil Secrets in Los Lunas, NM. They have the only true Humic acid (another long story) which is a key in healing soils. We can now take a chemically managed burned out field, full of pathogens and in one year bring it back to full production with +2% organic material . . agriculture will change when the pain is great enough.
For the last 5 years I have been using beneficial microbes in commercial dairies and commercial agriculture and am very familiar with EM, now known as Terra Gaunix. In fact, they stole the business I developed and are running a pump and dump operation. It is a good product, a bad company and stuck on the evolutionary path.
I still brew bugs from time to time, but that is a whole other story. Got a stainless steel 1000 gal. bulk tank for sale.
This is a great thread because biologically managed agriculture is our only hope and gratitude to those evolving the technology here.
One of the reasons why there is so much contention in Japan around EM products is that Dr. Higa divulged 1000 year old secret Japanese technology to us barbarians. The secret is in the mix of microbes used and the energetic response. Let me explain.
We all know that acupuncture works although our culture is not into energetic meridians.I always wondered why if I gave EM to a cow, it would get rid of the pathogens and make the output fermented . . not putrid.
Here is the theory.
The mixture of microbes resonates at a frequency that is 'beneficial' in systems. In our bodies, 10% are good, 10% are bad and the remaining 80% are opportunistic that will side with who is winning. So when you introduce this mixture, the 80% resonate 'good', the bad stand out like a bright light on a dark night and are eliminated.
These mixtures are generally probiotic antioxidant mixtures that provide all the enzymes, amino acids, polysacarides et all required by the plants. I have seen magic happen in a chemically managed chili field with just the introduction of these bugs.
The theft of my business was a gift (everything is) that took me further along this journey . . there are no silver bullets. I discovered a supramolecular humic acid, began to work with Mycorizzal fungi, got into biochar and am developing soil additives.
A good source for many organic nutrients is Soil Secrets in Los Lunas, NM. They have the only true Humic acid (another long story) which is a key in healing soils. We can now take a chemically managed burned out field, full of pathogens and in one year bring it back to full production with +2% organic material . . agriculture will change when the pain is great enough.
T
theFalcon
- 6
- 0
this is a grerat thread!
thanks for all the awesome info ~
i am going to try to make some FPE s , there is a Asian market near me and i am going to ask about buying their old papays and mangoes b4 they throw them out.
maybe bet a good price! i have been using teas exclusivley lately and my plants are really happy - this seems the next logical step !
please keep up with all the good recipes - i would like to see more flower recipes as well as one that might help inducing flowering.
thanks again - i am here to stay!:bong2:
thanks for all the awesome info ~
i am going to try to make some FPE s , there is a Asian market near me and i am going to ask about buying their old papays and mangoes b4 they throw them out.
maybe bet a good price! i have been using teas exclusivley lately and my plants are really happy - this seems the next logical step !
please keep up with all the good recipes - i would like to see more flower recipes as well as one that might help inducing flowering.
thanks again - i am here to stay!:bong2:
S
sin808
- 4
- 0
Very good thread. Thanks to Hashshashin for starting it, and dextr0 for so much input! I've been mixing and pitching for so long I quit questioning the practice. I was planning on starting a compost heap for a vegetable garden in Spring anyway, now I'm thinking about other applications for said compost heap. Not quite ready for a full organic grow, but I'd like to move in that direction for sure and will keep a eye on this thread for info and ideas. Thanks again!
B
big ballin 88
- 12
- 0
Everytime I come back here, I love to see that this thread is still in the top of the organics section. Little has changed to my techniques of just simply using the plants around me. Some of my best mixes have been thing you wouldn't think of like Sweetsop leaves which are high in certain minerals, I believe silicon(a?cant remember which one). Also, raspberry leaves were good. As always the best was sea kelp(Acophyllum Nodosum) and Comfrey.
Remember, you can always use really concentrated FPE's mainly nettles as herbicide's.
Remember, you can always use really concentrated FPE's mainly nettles as herbicide's.
2
2dawgz walker
- 3
- 3
finding white masses under the old leaf pile
The big old piles of Sugar maple leaves might have the white masses I am looking to use as my EM source.
If they aren't obvious is it possible that " rice feeding" a chunk of the deepest could produce such a visable manifestation?
Since the pile has been undisturbed for a couple of years its probably a good place to start, eh! Wondering if its important to leave the chunks as undisturbed while I feed it rice. Should I try to keep it as cool as it has been lately down in the low thirties F. Keeping it stable without sudden shifts is my guess and maybe later I could bring it in to a 60 degree basement to try and "culture" it.
Ok thanks....I read all this thread tonight and have a lot of links more to read. So I will !
I have to read more but want to have a friend bring a few
good chunks of this rich humus to me tomorrow so I can possibly get our own EM culture going.
I am so excited to have found this group of really smart gardeners with excellent helpful dialogues.
Thank you all !
2dawgz walker
The big old piles of Sugar maple leaves might have the white masses I am looking to use as my EM source.
If they aren't obvious is it possible that " rice feeding" a chunk of the deepest could produce such a visable manifestation?
Since the pile has been undisturbed for a couple of years its probably a good place to start, eh! Wondering if its important to leave the chunks as undisturbed while I feed it rice. Should I try to keep it as cool as it has been lately down in the low thirties F. Keeping it stable without sudden shifts is my guess and maybe later I could bring it in to a 60 degree basement to try and "culture" it.
Ok thanks....I read all this thread tonight and have a lot of links more to read. So I will !
I have to read more but want to have a friend bring a few
good chunks of this rich humus to me tomorrow so I can possibly get our own EM culture going.
I am so excited to have found this group of really smart gardeners with excellent helpful dialogues.
Thank you all !
2dawgz walker
Capulator
likes to smell trees.
Supporter
- 6,070
- 313
sounds like kyle kushmans veganics.
Capulator
likes to smell trees.
Supporter
- 6,070
- 313
when you say bio char are you talking about fracking?
2
2DogWalker
- 925
- 93
Why'd u steal my name bro?? Lol but get to work w those sugar maples, hope you got your buckets n boiler ready.....
Flattered,
2dogwalkER
Flattered,
2dogwalkER
U
Udyana Peace
- 133
- 0
<chuckle>
J
jacksonF
- 23
- 0
Bokashi Buckets
Not sure how this works on the forum, so I will put it out there and let me know if it is not cool.
I post to this thread because these are great for making fermented products.
At one time I sold a number of microbiological products. One of those products were Bokashi Buckets. Bokashi is a fermented, pro biotic, antioxident anaerobic compost. These buckets allow you to process kitchen scraps, any organic material and convert them to a very concentrated biologically rich liquid to use as fertilizer. You can also reduce dairy and meat. Here are two URLs that show you a pictureand give you an idea of the retail price.
and
http://www.bokashicycle.com/?gclid=CK_bnO7Ojq4CFQF3hwodvUrDhA
I was recently cleaning out a storage shed and came across about 18 that I no longer want. They are brand new in the box. I have about $30 into each one and will sell them for my cost plus shipping. I will include the activation powder (innoculant).
Not in the business and not making a profit so I do not think I am violating the rules of the forum. Let me know @ [email protected] if interested.
Not sure how this works on the forum, so I will put it out there and let me know if it is not cool.
I post to this thread because these are great for making fermented products.
At one time I sold a number of microbiological products. One of those products were Bokashi Buckets. Bokashi is a fermented, pro biotic, antioxident anaerobic compost. These buckets allow you to process kitchen scraps, any organic material and convert them to a very concentrated biologically rich liquid to use as fertilizer. You can also reduce dairy and meat. Here are two URLs that show you a pictureand give you an idea of the retail price.
and
http://www.bokashicycle.com/?gclid=CK_bnO7Ojq4CFQF3hwodvUrDhA
I was recently cleaning out a storage shed and came across about 18 that I no longer want. They are brand new in the box. I have about $30 into each one and will sell them for my cost plus shipping. I will include the activation powder (innoculant).
Not in the business and not making a profit so I do not think I am violating the rules of the forum. Let me know @ [email protected] if interested.
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