med-man tables and the med-man method

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med man

med man

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those buds went on to sweeping the cup in toronto 2013.

let me do a pictorial instead, i will keep it here in this thread

med-man
 
med man

med man

Breeder
772
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here we go

osb ;10 sheets
2x6x12 : 10
2x4x12 : 2
2 pounds : 3 inch deck screws (zinc)
cordless drill

- i cut 2 peices of 2x6x12 into 45 inch lengths for the ends of the frames
- i use the excess length to brance the joints between the 2x6x12 long-ways, see? last 3 pics
- make sure to punch 2 screws per joint of the frame

med-man
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med man

med man

Breeder
772
143
so

you want to make sure the drain holes are on the outside when upsode down (so they are inside when flipped over lol)

i just tack a screw every 2 feet and all the corners

to buy un-connectable flood tables it would have been 900.00. pretty sure this lumber cost me 90.00 :)

med-man

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med man

med man

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i will usually use 5 gallon pails, cinder blocks or whatever is around to jack up both ends to add the legs

do your self a favor, pre tack all the screws before banging the legs on, trust me. i always use 3 in the tree just to be safe

make sure the "drain" corner is over the res that you center in the room at the ends of the tables. use this corbner as you lowest point. work your way to each "closest" corner from there. i find it the easiest

i use all 2 foot legs. bang em on so the tops are flush with the beds 2x6's

i always use a 4 foot level, and shim up the closest corners to the furthest corners, allowing the air bubble to just max out on the level. i like to just shim up the legs. i find it easier. some guys like to remove each leg then redrill. do whatever you like that works :)

med-man

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med man

med man

Breeder
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so once the tables have legs, get sloped, and are in their final resting places, its time to water proof em

med-man

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med man

med man

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772
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the lids, typically, med-man tables have 15 plants per 4x8, but due to a plant number estriction, 1pp2 sq/ft will be these

in this case every plant will have 2 sq/ft, 4.75 inch holes btw

make sure to saw an extra hole for the ducts where the highest corner will be (shown on the 2 - 4 ft pieces)

med-man

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med man

med man

Breeder
772
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first water proof the lids, then beds

if you want to use cholorplast its a great option - cleaner, lighter, easier to saw cons = flimsy, costly

grab your cock, and cock a bead around every hole.

use gloved hands to spread your cock around evenly lol

once your cock is smoothed and stroked, lay over the 6mil builder 10x100 vapor barrier on it, still folded that is at 5ft wide

once you roll the v.b. over one side, cut it in half on the fold and roll that peice over the other table.

make sure they are placed good, or you muck up all the work you did with your cock

once placed nice and flat, purge all the air out of the cock with the v.b. to get a nice seal, cure for 24 hours.

nake extra sure that the lids were cleaned from any dust or dirt. your cock really needs to stick to the lid/v.b. equally

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med-man
 
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med man

med man

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772
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prepping the basket holes

just get a new sharp razor and cut out perfect 4.75 inch holes in the v.b. matching the holes in the lids

med-man

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med man

med man

Breeder
772
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waterproofing the beds aka root chamber

just roll out more v.b. leaving 8 inches over each table on each length

use a microfibre duster to make sure they are clean clean clean. they are charged like most palstic, so they attract anything that is light enuff to float and stick to it

take the folded edge, and square it up to its rightfull edge on the width, then crease the v.b. at the osb/2x6 joint. it should fall into place easy, wont need much coaxing

once the 1 corner is perfect, tack it on top with a couple staples, then coax a new crease down one length and crease the other width. tack more staples on the new corner then work back to the first tacked corner. repeat down the last length then make sure there are staples tacked every 2-4 fet the whole way around

MAKE DAMN SURE THE V.B IS PERFECTLY FLAT IN THE BED. OR ELSE THERE WILL BE WATER FLOW/ROOT ISSUES. NO CREASES ARE ACCEPTABLE FOR THE WHOLE BED. IF YOU PLACE THE V.B. IN PERFECT, YOU WONT HAVE TO WORRY. IF YOU GET AHEAD OF YOURSELF THEN BIG WAVES OF V.B. WILL FORM FROM TENSION IN THE BED. THIS WILL NOT WORK. TAKE YOUR TIME WHILE PACING THE V.B. IT TOOK ME 5 MIN TO DO EACH BED

i like t use the v.b. roll as a counterweght to make sure the v.b. doesnt shift around as there is much play , maybe 1/2 on each side.

the v.b. has to be square with the risers to work perfect. you do not want the v.b. to be sliding in the bed all over. waves or tears or punctures can happen. when unrolling the v.b. over the tables. just make sure its even on both sides of the table, so when it sinks in it does it evenly

cut a small x into the drain hole

the small x you cut for the drain, just spread open gently with your hand shaped like a cone. the deeper it goes in, the more it slowly spreads open

next place lids righ side up :) tables are wet proofed

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med-man
 
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med man

med man

Breeder
772
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final bed note
this is what i mean about even and flat

you want the whole risers, tops included covered by v.b.. even the whole way down.

it also need to be flat ass hell so roots grow massive, amd water flows unobstructed

med-man
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med man

med man

Breeder
772
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securing the lids
i tack a screw on every corner of every lid along the highest length of the tables

the lids and beds now are covered in v.b. which will make a small slip factor

tacking 1 side will allow for chamber/root inspection while leaving no room for error and slippage throughout the grow cycle

finishing the lids
roll out your 10 foot wide panda poly

cut in half and share the length between both tables

cut out a perfect hole for the air duct

cut a 3 inch double x for the baskets : leave and inch to the actual hole so the baskets spread the poly to deal the exposed wood from the saw. savey?

get some 5 inch baskets

drill out 1/4 inch holes in the lips for the 1/4 inch drip line that will be feeding them

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med-man
 
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med man

med man

Breeder
772
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plumbing
once baskets are set in place

you need 1/2 inch mainline, 10 1/2 inch ball valves, 10 1/2 inch plugs, 4 1/2 inch 90's, 7 1/2 inch T's (one for the pump), 1/2 inch pump adapter, pipe cutter, 1/4 hole puncher, enuff 1/4 inch drip nipples for the baskets, enuff 1/4 inch drip line for each basket, 2 pumps (1 for feed 1 for mixing/draining res), 1 blulab trimeter,

med-man

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med man

med man

Breeder
772
143
plumbing
- make sure 1 1/2 inch mainline feeds 2 rows of plants
- put 1 ball valve per T or 90 to control flow
- keep the ends of each line plugged
- 1/2 inch mainlinetack em down with your fave type of cable or pipe staple
- run drip tube into the basket half way (2.5 inches) thru the pre drilled baskets

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med man

med man

Breeder
772
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lighting
- i put 12 600 with adjustawings over the tables, 6 per side
evenly spaced
- so bright with the reflective material, its like a bare bulb room
- 2 benefits i love about my tables is the physical work is so easy being up high, the second is you get your whole space to store stuff. even non growing stuff if you please
- working with wood allows very easy mods like posts for screens, lighting harness with big spcaes/tall cielings, smaller tables for smaller space, longer tables for thinner spaces. etc etc etc

med-man

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