What's The Difference Between The Nute Pack, Root Pack, And Foliar Pack??

[Tank333]

Between the root pack, the nute pack, and the foliar pack?

 

[Capulator]

Huge difference.

I will make this a sticky here later and go in to full detail. I don't have the time at the moment but should be able to get to it tonight.

 

[Tank333]

Huge difference.

I will make this a sticky here later and go in to full detail. I don't have the time at the moment but should be able to get to it tonight.

I figured there was, but my phone has a vendetta against me and doesn't like to bring up your site....

 

[Capulator]

What's the difference between the nute pack, root pack and foliar pack?



The nute pack:


This pack has the mycorrhizae. 4 species total of only endo species.

In addition to the mycos (each species at approx 125 spores/gram) there are NPK solubilizers and fixers. Azospirrilum (marketed by x-treme as azos) is in there. That converts atmospheric nitrogen in to plant usable form. There are also bacteria for P and K uptake as well. The azospirillum, frateuria, rhizobium, bacillus... they are all at the concentration of approximately 5 billion spores/gram.



The root pack:


This is the flagship in my opinion. This is where you will find all the trichoderma and bacillus species, and several others. Over 20 species all custom blended to be able to work together in harmony and give the plants a better immune system and an amazing level of protection from root disease. Totaling over 1 trillion spores per gram of microbes, I could not possibly make it any more concentrated.



The root and nute packs combined blow competing products out of the water. It’s not .01 active ingredient. It’s 30%. Compared to a product like GW it’s 20,000 x the spore counts on trichoderma and bacillus species. If you were to take actinovate, microbelife photosynth, serenade, great white, tarantula, voodoo… you would still not be able to come close to what this combo offers.


The root pack and nute pack are separated for a reason. Pure hydro users should not use the nute pack. This is because of the potential carbon drain mycos can have on a plant that has all the food it needs readily available. At this time I recommend the nute pack for soil, peat, and coco only.


The foliar pack:


This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.


It has been known to effectively control and prevent:


Root aphids

Spidermites

Aphids

Whitefly

Grubs

Harmful nematodes

Thrips

Fungus gnats

Scale

Powdery mildew

Broad mites

Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.


It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.


If anyone has any questions I am always happy to help. If I don't have an answer, please give me the opportunity to do some research and find one.

-Cap

 

[Capulator]

@Tank333 I changed the thread title and made this a sticky here. Thank you. :)

 

[sixstring]

is it ok to use another bt product along side your foliar packs cap?on the labels it says after brewing teas use at a rate of 1 to 2 cups.is it ok to use the root and foliar at the 2 cup rate weekly in peat/coco 50/50% ?

 

[Capulator]

is it ok to use another bt product along side your foliar packs cap?on the labels it says after brewing teas use at a rate of 1 to 2 cups.is it ok to use the root and foliar at the 2 cup rate weekly in peat/coco 50/50% ?

You may do this but I put BTk and BTi in the foliar pack at 5 billion spores per gram so it may be redundant and a waste of money. You may definitely use the 2 cup rate. You may also use 1 part tea to 9 parts water/nute solution or you can even use full concentrate if you wish. You cannot over apply. If the bennies have nothing to do they die or go back in to spore state.

 

[caregiverken]

The foliar pack:

This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.
It has been known to effectively control and prevent:
Root aphids

Spidermites

Aphids

Whitefly

Grubs

Harmful nematodes

Thrips

Fungus gnats

Scale

Powdery mildew


Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.


It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.
-Cap

Great post.. I can attest, The forliar spray does do all those things!
Great stuff!

 

[sixstring]

You may do this but I put BTk and BTi in the foliar pack at 5 billion spores per gram so it may be redundant and a waste of money. You may definitely use the 2 cup rate. You may also use 1 part tea to 9 parts water/nute solution or you can even use full concentrate if you wish. You cannot over apply. If the bennies have nothing to do they die or go back in to spore state.

ok cool so if I choose to use say 3 cups tea per gallon of r/o water its no problem.because I had a ton of tea left after watering all my plants to runoff and I dumped it because I read here not to try and keep it too long.sure was a lot of sludge on the bottom of the bucket when I dumped it.would that sludge be good for my outdoor garden during the summer?

 

[Funkstarfish]

yes dump the sludge on your compost pile or on a resting garden bed. Its all good stuff.

I have used the TEA at 1/2 to full strength for a over week now trying to battle fungus gnats. Not sure how its going so far, but after watering the flies do seem drunk for a while. Ill keep on it to try and slow these buggers down.

 

[Capulator]

yes dump the sludge on your compost pile or on a resting garden bed. Its all good stuff.

I have used the TEA at 1/2 to full strength for a over week now trying to battle fungus gnats. Not sure how its going so far, but after watering the flies do seem drunk for a while. Ill keep on it to try and slow these buggers down.

The foliar pack will not kill the flies it will kill the larvae. TO kill the flies I recommend a p bomb.

 

[Funkstarfish]

The foliar pack will not kill the flies it will kill the larvae. TO kill the flies I recommend a p bomb.

What do you mean a P bomb? I'll look into it in the mean time. I have about 20 sticky traps around the room. always putting in more

 

[Capulator]

Get a full face mask like this:

http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail...gclid=CKzusOyi8LsCFc5lfgodtVoAvg&gclsrc=aw.ds

Then get a p bomb:

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/p...=2&zmap=1479&gclid=COOd8_ii8LsCFed0Qgodm2sArQ

These are foggers, but you can cut the tab off with a razor blade so that when you press down on the top the tab doesnt lock it up in the "on" position. Now you have basically an aeresol you can use at your leisure. When I had a FG infestation, I used a p bomb and a tyvek suit with the full face mask. I sprayed the "topsoil" of all my pots, and hit any flyers I saw with a blast of P.

Pretty much once and done. COupled with the foliar pack to kill the larvae and you will see almost 100% success overnight.

 

[sixstring]

I have done battle with the flyers using a shop vac and just going from pot to pot.give em a bump and the flyers come right up and ssssslluuuurrrrppp, boom, done :) if i can kill off the larvae the rest is cake baby

 

[PaperStreet]

What's the difference between the nute pack, root pack and foliar pack?



The nute pack:


This pack has the mycorrhizae. 4 species total of only endo species.

In addition to the mycos (each species at approx 125 spores/gram) there are NPK solubilizers and fixers. Azospirrilum (marketed by x-treme as azos) is in there. That converts atmospheric nitrogen in to plant usable form. There are also bacteria for P and K uptake as well. The azospirillum, frateuria, rhizobium, bacillus... they are all at the concentration of approximately 5 billion spores/gram.



The root pack:


This is the flagship in my opinion. This is where you will find all the trichoderma and bacillus species, and several others. Over 20 species all custom blended to be able to work together in harmony and give the plants a better immune system and an amazing level of protection from root disease. Totaling over 1 trillion spores per gram of microbes, I could not possibly make it any more concentrated.



The root and nute packs combined blow competing products out of the water. It’s not .01 active ingredient. It’s 30%. Compared to a product like GW it’s 20,000 x the spore counts on trichoderma and bacillus species. If you were to take actinovate, microbelife photosynth, serenade, great white, tarantula, voodoo… you would still not be able to come close to what this combo offers.


The root pack and nute pack are separated for a reason. Pure hydro users should not use the nute pack. This is because of the potential carbon drain mycos can have on a plant that has all the food it needs readily available. At this time I recommend the nute pack for soil, peat, and coco only.


The foliar pack:


This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.


It has been known to effectively control and prevent:


Root aphids

Spidermites

Aphids

Whitefly

Grubs

Harmful nematodes

Thrips

Fungus gnats

Scale

Powdery mildew


Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.


It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.


If anyone has any questions I am always happy to help. If I don't have an answer, please give me the opportunity to do some research and find one.

-Cap

Great thread big ups @Capulator thanks for takeing the time to write that up as well to the original poster in here i was going to ask the same thing.

 

[PaperStreet]

I have done battle with the flyers using a shop vac and just going from pot to pot.give em a bump and the flyers come right up and ssssslluuuurrrrppp, boom, done :) if i can kill off the larvae the rest is cake baby

U should have no problem with those gnats bro. I had my whitefly(flying aphid) infestation it was bad bro certain plants where entirely infested and some fans didnt have a spot of bare fans under the leaves, completely covered in larvae/eggs.. Once i bgan spraying it only took about a week but i could visually see the bacteria colonizeing on the underside of the fans and havent seen a flyer since.
It did take 2-3 weeks of aggressive treatment but it did work im telling u man ur gonna see for urself also now that im treating my res regularly the plants just generally look alot happier.. Fans praying and my roots almost smell like tasty dirt in dwc haha! Big ups cap shit works just like u said.

 

[Tank333]

Hmm... Just had my partner order the root pack. Maybe I shoulda had him get the root pack and the foliar, too... lol

How effective against PM is the foliar?

 

[Capulator]

it's as effective as Serenade, but it also has another species called ampelomyces quisqalis that is a parasite on PM.

 

[Tank333]

Are these organic, Cap?

 

[Capulator]

Are these organic, Cap?

Not OMRI listed. They are IMHO pretty damn organic though. Microbes and silica talc. that's it.