What's The Difference Between The Nute Pack, Root Pack, And Foliar Pack??

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urbanfog

urbanfog

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Hey Cap, If you had to choose just one of your packs for a Tea for flowers
which would you pick? the Root? or the Foliar?
Im going to keep spraying with the folair ...just wondering if thats the best one for flower tea?
Im in soil

Cant wait to see how the foliar works for me with my line up!
 
Fresh Starts

Fresh Starts

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Hey Cap, If you had to choose just one of your packs for a Tea for flowers
which would you pick? the Root? or the Foliar?
Im going to keep spraying with the folair ...just wondering if thats the best one for flower tea?
Im in soil

Well since the Nute pack is only for vegging plants that one is out.
And if you don't have any pests then the foliar pack is less relevant.
Besides those two points, Cap considers the root pack to be his flagship product and it can be used as a PM preventative.
I'd go with Root Pack. Lets see what cap says.
 
Delerium

Delerium

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hello cap, just ordered the foliar pack. questions:

can I use the foliar pack in conjunction with sulfur burns? in attempt to eliminate the pm from a couple pm-loving strains.

and, should I brew a tea to foliar, or do the "watering in" mixing instructions (1tsp/liter)
Curious about that also. Do you have to wait x days after a burn to apply?
 
J

jbizness

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Does the foliar pack need carbs to multiply like the root pack?
 
Fresh Starts

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To my knowledge, there are beneficial bacteria and fungi in the foliar pack.
Bacteria need simple sugars to replicate so you're answer is yes.
I'm uncertain how much the fungus rely on carbs to replicate but I do know that kelp meal is an excellent source of food for them.
 
Twisted pleasure

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Capulator

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@Delerium Sulfur will inhibit the growth of all fungi, so yes if you are doing sulfur burns you should wait a week so after using sulfer, and a week after using bennies to reapply sulfur.

@jbizness some species in the foliar pack can utilize carbs but many of them will utilize bugs as a host to multiply. The spores will stay in your media/on leaf surface until coming in contact with a host. Then, the fungi will germinate on said host and suck it dry of nutrients, killing it and then proliferating from those nutrients, spreading to other target hosts in the vicinity.

The bacteria can multiply with a carb source. This is why the tea is used.
 
J

jbizness

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Want to do a root dunk with just the foliar so wanted to make sure if i needd to add a carb source.
 
caregiverken

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Well since the Nute pack is only for vegging plants that one is out.
And if you don't have any pests then the foliar pack is less relevant.
Besides those two points, Cap considers the root pack to be his flagship product and it can be used as a PM preventative.
I'd go with Root Pack. Lets see what cap says.

Thanks...makes sence
@Capulator
I cant add The root pack to my cart because it says its out of stock :(
 
killemsoftly

killemsoftly

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back in stock now ken. :)
hey cap, i tried searching thcbay but couldnt find your bennies. I definitely want the root pack. i'm running promix. i feed a great a/b with chelated minerals (locally sourced), use grozyme and maltose for sugars. would the root pack be applicable to me? sorry if this is not the right venue to ask. new to the farm n still learning. gracias azamor ps do u ship to the great white north?
 
Capulator

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hey cap, i tried searching thcbay but couldnt find your bennies. I definitely want the root pack. i'm running promix. i feed a great a/b with chelated minerals (locally sourced), use grozyme and maltose for sugars. would the root pack be applicable to me? sorry if this is not the right venue to ask. new to the farm n still learning. gracias azamor ps do u ship to the great white north?

www.ogbiowar.com use the coupon code farmer.
 
Thoth

Thoth

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What's the difference between the nute pack, root pack and foliar pack?



The nute pack:


This pack has the mycorrhizae. 4 species total of only endo species.

In addition to the mycos (each species at approx 125 spores/gram) there are NPK solubilizers and fixers. Azospirrilum (marketed by x-treme as azos) is in there. That converts atmospheric nitrogen in to plant usable form. There are also bacteria for P and K uptake as well. The azospirillum, frateuria, rhizobium, bacillus... they are all at the concentration of approximately 5 billion spores/gram.



The root pack:


This is the flagship in my opinion. This is where you will find all the trichoderma and bacillus species, and several others. Over 20 species all custom blended to be able to work together in harmony and give the plants a better immune system and an amazing level of protection from root disease. Totaling over 1 trillion spores per gram of microbes, I could not possibly make it any more concentrated.



The root and nute packs combined blow competing products out of the water. It’s not .01 active ingredient. It’s 30%. Compared to a product like GW it’s 20,000 x the spore counts on trichoderma and bacillus species. If you were to take actinovate, microbelife photosynth, serenade, great white, tarantula, voodoo… you would still not be able to come close to what this combo offers.


The root pack and nute pack are separated for a reason. Pure hydro users should not use the nute pack. This is because of the potential carbon drain mycos can have on a plant that has all the food it needs readily available. At this time I recommend the nute pack for soil, peat, and coco only.


The foliar pack:


This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.


It has been known to effectively control and prevent:


Root aphids

Spidermites

Aphids

Whitefly

Grubs

Harmful nematodes

Thrips

Fungus gnats

Scale

Powdery mildew

Broad mites

Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.


It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.


If anyone has any questions I am always happy to help. If I don't have an answer, please give me the opportunity to do some research and find one.

-Cap

Hey Cap, I've got a few questions.

1. Are these packs specifically formulated for cannabis plants, or can they be used on any plant (eg vegetable, ornamentals)?

2. Can regular reapplication reduce efficacy of the products (especially the root and nute packs)? What I mean is, if the microbes contained within form symbiotic relationships with the plants that they are applied to, would reapplications create competition with those colonies already established, therefore disrupting the benefits conferred?

3. Do you use the foliar pack as a prophylactic, or a treatment, or both?

4. Is it best to mix them, then let them settle to remove the silica and talc, or does it not matter?

Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my questions.

:)
 
Capulator

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@Thoth

1) Formulated for edible crops, and will work on any plant.
2) Not really. MIcrobes with no place in the world will either die off or go back to spore state.
3) Both
4)Yes. Always let settle to avoid the majority of talc carrier.
 
caregiverken

caregiverken

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But the Talc isnt a problem in the tea or sprinkled into the soil when transplanting is it Cap?
 
Capulator

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But the Talc isnt a problem in the tea or sprinkled into the soil when transplanting is it Cap?

So when you mix the bennies in water or nute solution,l or tea, you are going to have a bit of talc swirling around. What happens when you do not let the solution settle prior to watering, is you water in all the talc. The talc then creates a hard pan on the soil surface (especially in potted plants). This is bad for drainage. That is the only thing it is bad for.

SO you want to let the solution/tea/water settle for 3-5 minutes, then pour the liquid out, leaving the majority of the talc carrier in a sludge at the bottom of the container. The rinse that out and pour it in the toilet or the grass or wherever.
 
Fresh Starts

Fresh Starts

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I have been placing the talc carrier in tea bags with earth worm castings to keep my cone bottom brewer from clogging up. Its worked great thus far. I also try to massage the tea bag every once in a while during the brew process. I usually brew for 4+ days with ambient temps around high 50's to low 60's (winter). :coldfeet:

IMG 20140202 175745
 
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