Tank333
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Between the root pack, the nute pack, and the foliar pack?
Huge difference.
I will make this a sticky here later and go in to full detail. I don't have the time at the moment but should be able to get to it tonight.
is it ok to use another bt product along side your foliar packs cap?on the labels it says after brewing teas use at a rate of 1 to 2 cups.is it ok to use the root and foliar at the 2 cup rate weekly in peat/coco 50/50% ?
The foliar pack:
This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.
It has been known to effectively control and prevent:
Root aphids
Spidermites
Aphids
Whitefly
Grubs
Harmful nematodes
Thrips
Fungus gnats
Scale
Powdery mildew
Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.
It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.
-Cap
ok cool so if I choose to use say 3 cups tea per gallon of r/o water its no problem.because I had a ton of tea left after watering all my plants to runoff and I dumped it because I read here not to try and keep it too long.sure was a lot of sludge on the bottom of the bucket when I dumped it.would that sludge be good for my outdoor garden during the summer?You may do this but I put BTk and BTi in the foliar pack at 5 billion spores per gram so it may be redundant and a waste of money. You may definitely use the 2 cup rate. You may also use 1 part tea to 9 parts water/nute solution or you can even use full concentrate if you wish. You cannot over apply. If the bennies have nothing to do they die or go back in to spore state.
yes dump the sludge on your compost pile or on a resting garden bed. Its all good stuff.
I have used the TEA at 1/2 to full strength for a over week now trying to battle fungus gnats. Not sure how its going so far, but after watering the flies do seem drunk for a while. Ill keep on it to try and slow these buggers down.
What do you mean a P bomb? I'll look into it in the mean time. I have about 20 sticky traps around the room. always putting in moreThe foliar pack will not kill the flies it will kill the larvae. TO kill the flies I recommend a p bomb.
Great thread big ups @Capulator thanks for takeing the time to write that up as well to the original poster in here i was going to ask the same thing.What's the difference between the nute pack, root pack and foliar pack?
The nute pack:
This pack has the mycorrhizae. 4 species total of only endo species.
In addition to the mycos (each species at approx 125 spores/gram) there are NPK solubilizers and fixers. Azospirrilum (marketed by x-treme as azos) is in there. That converts atmospheric nitrogen in to plant usable form. There are also bacteria for P and K uptake as well. The azospirillum, frateuria, rhizobium, bacillus... they are all at the concentration of approximately 5 billion spores/gram.
The root pack:
This is the flagship in my opinion. This is where you will find all the trichoderma and bacillus species, and several others. Over 20 species all custom blended to be able to work together in harmony and give the plants a better immune system and an amazing level of protection from root disease. Totaling over 1 trillion spores per gram of microbes, I could not possibly make it any more concentrated.
The root and nute packs combined blow competing products out of the water. It’s not .01 active ingredient. It’s 30%. Compared to a product like GW it’s 20,000 x the spore counts on trichoderma and bacillus species. If you were to take actinovate, microbelife photosynth, serenade, great white, tarantula, voodoo… you would still not be able to come close to what this combo offers.
The root pack and nute pack are separated for a reason. Pure hydro users should not use the nute pack. This is because of the potential carbon drain mycos can have on a plant that has all the food it needs readily available. At this time I recommend the nute pack for soil, peat, and coco only.
The foliar pack:
This is the arsenal. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals.
It has been known to effectively control and prevent:
Root aphids
Spidermites
Aphids
Whitefly
Grubs
Harmful nematodes
Thrips
Fungus gnats
Scale
Powdery mildew
Without harming lady bugs, predator mites, beneficial nematodes, earthworms or praying manti.
It can be compared to serenade, gognats, botaniguard, met52, photosynth plus (all together).. It has the biological form of spinosad in it, as well as 2 types of Bt and several other species that are not even available in the hydro product industry.
If anyone has any questions I am always happy to help. If I don't have an answer, please give me the opportunity to do some research and find one.
-Cap
U should have no problem with those gnats bro. I had my whitefly(flying aphid) infestation it was bad bro certain plants where entirely infested and some fans didnt have a spot of bare fans under the leaves, completely covered in larvae/eggs.. Once i bgan spraying it only took about a week but i could visually see the bacteria colonizeing on the underside of the fans and havent seen a flyer since.I have done battle with the flyers using a shop vac and just going from pot to pot.give em a bump and the flyers come right up and ssssslluuuurrrrppp, boom, done :) if i can kill off the larvae the rest is cake baby
Are these organic, Cap?