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ph problems? Thanks!

  • Thread starter Thread starter NorthenShark
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ph problems? Thanks!

NorthenShark 55 Replies 6,574 Views
Page 2 of 3 · Replies 21–40 of 56
#21
I would def stop mixing zone and h2o2 and thats probably what burned those tips if I had to guess.all that h202 can make your ph go crazy as well.plants look good in those last pics.i would do a res change and go for 800 to 850 ppm and 5.8 ph and see if it stays in check better.and I would skip the zone and h202 for a week or so see if they respond well.low ppm will have them drinking like crazy and ph will swing as well.gl
 
#22
Gotta let the plant recover, dont over react and do abunch of stuff to it, Fresh Resh, dont have to have the ppms so high, i get away with 350 ppms and my girls are pretty big.

Add JUST the Zone, and keep ph steady.
 
#23
Capfan said:
Gotta let the plant recover, dont over react and do abunch of stuff to it, Fresh Resh, dont have to have the ppms so high, i get away with 350 ppms and my girls are pretty big.

Add JUST the Zone, and keep ph steady.
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Are you running r/o water? It tends to swing all over at low nute levels ime.
 
#24
Yes RO, i get some ph swings aswell, but if i take my solution up, i get abit of N toxicity.. h&g Aqua flakes.
 
#25
Ive read before that Big Bud could make stuff get wacked out of range.
 
#26
NorthenShark said:
. . . . . and soaked it in zone and some bleach
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'just like with the H2O2, the purpose of bleach is to disinfect. interactions occur when you start mixing this stuff . . . . so you've got to be extra careful about your dosages. that's more difficult for us non-chemists when we start trying to mix and match.

i would recommend that you stick with zone in your system until a nute change. then, add 1 ml of "regular" clorox (6% sodium hypochlorite) for every 10 gallons of your system. i'd pull 4 gals out of your system in a bucket, add the bleach to it and mix, and slowly add it back to the epicenter over something like 15 minutes. run that for an hour, then drain your system. anything different than this (using straight r/o and bleach without nutes in the mix, having h2o2 in the mix, etc) might be too harsh on your roots so you should be extra cautious about it.

and i'd knock off the BB and anything other than A&B&zone until i got the pH and TDS under control.
 
#27
I think you might be over thinking things.... you may want to recailibrate your ph tester... To me your roots look good and you plants look very nice lush and green.... It coukd even be you are adding too much ph down when your adjusting the ph... Big Bud coukd be makingthings wack out as well... Ive noticed this with a lot of bloom boosters... Stick with cultured solutions booster and you shouldnt have problems with it... I would personally do a full water change and only use a small amount of dm zone, no nutes at all no boosters just fresh RO and zone... Run it this way for 24-48 hours if your ph is still dropping then you know u have a root problem... If you do have a root problem i would get some of caps bennies and ditch the dm zone... I personally think its your bloom booster thats causing this though as ive experienced the same thing myself
 
#29
Hey farmers quick ? some of my hairs on different plants are turning brown already do u think that's because of the low ph problem or just over nutes
 
#30
Never Ran DM, but its possible the A part could dye your roots. ( the thick dark liquid )
 
#32
Found this on my filters.
20131016 010226
 
#33
i try to clean the filters a few times a week...pump gets bogged down when filters clog up..

Takes no more then a min to clean it...
 
#35
Hi everyone, I'm new around here I'm pretty new at this, but I've not read any mention to buffering RO before using it. Adding 250ppm Cal/Mag and let if mix really well, then silicon if used and let mix well, and then add nutes and adjust pH. Should make the mix pH rock solid.

Then the plant starts munching and then you really know what up. If you're not pH buffering your RO as you top-back, its natural to get these swings.

Some people go as far as adding cal mag, adding silicon, ph(+) up to 10 and let be a few hours, then pH(-) back down to 5.5 (or whatever suits) a few hours - ten top-off- then nutes etc... but I'm not game for this one lol

But anyways, pH buffering is always required to some degree.
 
#36
The Groff said:
Hi everyone, I'm new around here I'm pretty new at this, but I've not read any mention to buffering RO before using it. Adding 250ppm Cal/Mag and let if mix really well, then silicon if used and let mix well, and then add nutes and adjust pH. Should make the mix pH rock solid.

Then the plant starts munching and then you really know what up. If you're not pH buffering your RO as you top-back, its natural to get these swings.

Some people go as far as adding cal mag, adding silicon, ph(+) up to 10 and let be a few hours, then pH(-) back down to 5.5 (or whatever suits) a few hours - ten top-off- then nutes etc... but I'm not game for this one lol

But anyways, pH buffering is always required to some degree.
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Thanks for the input. I actually do add my cal mag first let it mix for awhile then add my nutes and usually the ph is were I want it
 
#37
Then I am 99% sure its BB thats causing issues. I'm finishing up a coco harvest where I have 1 big rez to mix nute and hand water. A little pump fluming, not bubbling. Using Canna Coco and Carboload made my EC and pH drop just like you described. A little salt precipitation could be found.

As far as I know BB is a new version of carboload with added stuff. Doesnt hurt to try. Mix up without BB for a while to see
 
#38
The Groff said:
Then I am 99% sure its BB thats causing issues. I'm finishing up a coco harvest where I have 1 big rez to mix nute and hand water. A little pump fluming, not bubbling. Using Canna Coco and Carboload made my EC and pH drop just like you described. A little salt precipitation could be found.

As far as I know BB is a new version of carboload with added stuff. Doesnt hurt to try. Mix up without BB for a while to see
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Ya I cut out BB this last change out and so far so good
 
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