Glab120
- 127
- 43
I couldn't find a ss chamber that I'm happy with but I got everything else finished so hopefully Tomm I'll have pics to share.
I couldn't find a ss chamber that I'm happy with but I got everything else finished so hopefully Tomm I'll have pics to share.
does anybody have advice on how to make that super dry looking honycomb wax. I only stop purging once i have a completly stabel product at whatever temp im running it at, for an oil or shatter i only heat to 120 degrees and for wax ill heat it up to around 140. im assuming its just honeycomb wax thats budderd up from higher temps than 140 but im not sure.
smush it back into a glob and purge it again it should still expand but not as much. once its completly stabel at room temps both under a full vac and stays the same when you release the vac you can add heat. now while still under a full vac start adding heat but never above about 160 . the oil should return back to a sap like consistency and just bubble under a full vac at around 130 degrees.
When doing this step, how long does it take to main stability while under full vac? I'll get mine up to full vac, leave it for a few hours, come back an release the vac, smush it back into a glob, and still expands. i've tried getting to full vac and releasing and returning to full vac repeatedly in a short period of time, but no matter what it seems i cant get it to maintain stability under full vac.
I also assume by stability you meant that it wont expand any more correct?
I have a few questions, if you see this please read the PM i sent you, getting a good technique down is extremely important to me and i'll be willing to pay you for your time.
Sry I just looked at this site... To get a stable product at room temps I'll pull a vacuum and release it about 6 times in 30 min. This usually will get it stable.
This allows you to very easily smush and form the glob and it shouldn't be sticky on the parchment paper at this Time. Put it back in the chamber and gradually add heat. When the dry looking glob returns to a sappy consistency start to vacuum agian. I usually purge for 2-4 hours depending on how much I make. Every 20-30 min I'll release the vac and reform the oil to expose new surface area. if you fold the parchment paper and put one side in your hand and hold the othe side against something cold it(the oil) will separate clean. Just repeat those steps until the oil is basically stable at 110-120 degrees.
If at first you don't succeed...try agian. That's about the best advise I have. U should be fine the first time. Also the first ball valve is to separate the chambers vacuum from the pump once it's at full vac... This prevents the oil in the pump from being sucked into the chamber and running your run(this sucks, trust me).Ok so I'm trying to figure out how to put together the lid and help would be MUCH appreciated.
So as far as I can tell you've drilled 2 holes into the lanex with both identical 3/8" female hose barbs
Then to connect the pump to the 3/8" ball joint you used a 1/4" hose from an automotive A/C recharging can.
Another female hose barb to connect the 3/8" ball joint to the 1/4" hose you bought.
A T joint hose to connect the first 3/8" female hose barb and the other tube connected to the second 3/8" ball joint which is connected to the second 3/8" female hose barb.
You then connected to vacuum pressure gauge to the second 3/8" ball joint with another 3/8" female hose?
This is my understanding of how you've built it PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong. Also I'm not very savy in this stuff but the second ball joint doesn't really make sense to me couldn't I just connected the gauge with a seperate tube and not even connect it with the other tubing?
Like I said I'm very new to all this even putting my understanding of how exactly you made this almost blew my brain to bits.
http://i2. photobucket .com/albums/y41/and123w/asd_zps4db19645.png
This is what I mean for the gauge rather than connecting it with another ball joint
If at first you don't succeed...try agian. That's about the best advise I have. U should be fine the first time. Also the first ball valve is to separate the chambers vacuum from the pump once it's at full vac... This prevents the oil in the pump from being sucked into the chamber and running your run(this sucks, trust me).
If at first you don't succeed...try agian. That's about the best advise I have. U should be fine the first time. Also the first ball valve is to separate the chambers vacuum from the pump once it's at full vac... This prevents the oil in the pump from being sucked into the chamber and running your run(this sucks, trust me).