MY BREAKING BAD MOMENT

[velocity]

You can use bleach, but plain ol hot water works wonders. If can get some heavy gloves that are used to handle chems put those on use the hotest water you can handle and wipe the room down from top to bottom, and every piece of equipment the best you can. Keep the water hot as you can, change it often. Get a pack of cheap wash cloths and change them often. Gloves will keep your skin from pruning or cracking. Gloves will save your skin from becoming damaged, just dont go so hot the water burns you, but needs to be hot and changed often. The heat does the work, water and the cloth just loosens and picks everything up.

Dont leave water behind when you wipe, wring out the wash cloth. You want the cloth to pick up whats there. Everytime you wipe, dunk it in water and wring it out. It needs to be wet so its hot, but if water is runing down the wall its to much water. If you use bleach in a room that size it will get overwhelming, wear a mask for chems. Reguardless hot water or bleach it will take a couple hours to clean.

Wipe it down 1 day, let it rest 1 day, then go back in and wipe it down again.Run your dehuyeys nonstop and keep it low rh you can. The low rh will help dry it out between wipe downs.

I deal with mold in houses alot. Remediation companys have told me bleach just makes it hards to breathe in the room while working. Hot water and getting the surface dry, keeping it dry the best way to deal with spores. Dehuyey the room day you work and for 2 days after your done. If it takes say 3 days to clean would run dehuyeys for 5 days.

 

[motherlode]

sorry but I have to disagree with you on the hot water issue - these are pathogens that attack plants and can survive being composted - there is no valid reason not to use bleach or as I prefer phsyan 20 (which is safe for use on plants as a spray or drench)

as always you should wear a respirator when spraying anything that can irritate your lungs

 

[waayne]

To sterilize I typically use 91% alcohol,Bleach,and Physan20 as @motherlode suggested....

I also disagee @velocity that you can sterilize reliably with hot water,maybe if you used a power washer with the temp set above 120 degrees,but how practical is that indoors....?

Jackmayoffer passed on the info for using bleach at a rate of 90ml per gallon,and I've had success using that rate to clean rooms that had PM,or other diseases.......

 

[CelticEBE]

This is gonna make me sound like a dick....but it's a pet peeve of mine. Sorta like being a grammar nazi.

This is disinfection....not sterilization. In order to "Sterilize" something you have to reach extreme heat and pressure, radiation, or ethylene gas.

I'm a huge fan of physan 20 and bleach.

 

[motherlode]

semantics lol

 

[waayne]

@CelticEBE you're not being dick at all, I appreciate the info bro!
Physan 20 is a great product!

 

[CelticEBE]

It's what I get for working in the Tattoo/Piercing industry for 15 years.

Hope things pull through for ya Confuten!

 

[velocity]

Let me clear couple things up since my last post. I did not intend for it to post, my phone rang and it must of posted when switched over.

Since its clearly evident that I need to digress from comments I will.

The way I deal with things is not go buy jug of physan 20 and spray it all over the place and hope it works. I clean first stage, treat for second stage, then try to use a product for control for a couple months.

The reason for wiping with hot water is to A.remove excess spores B.To try and removes anything the spores can hang onto, theres going to be a small % of resin all over inside of the room.

Why get dehuyes and run them atleast 5 days nonstop? A. So the water used does not create its own mold in the walls, allow the sheet rock to dry asap without sweating on the inside of the wall cavity. B. If you have a dry room for couple days when you TREAT the room anything thats DRY will SOAK UP the moisture. In this case a physan solution.The spores will be dry and soak the physan up easier than if you didnt dry the room out first.

The op asked about cleaning to me from my interpratation and that was above post response that I didn't intend to post. But I see how it is nobody seems to want and try to do best thing to break the cycle, gotta go gotta go.

Compost is a generic term. There is cold composting, and hot composting. If anyone gets on google and cant figure the differances in then its on them. Theres a reason why hortacultrists use hot composting and also the good od pot growers. Let me clue you in, spores cannot live in a pile thats 140F, why cold composting wich you are talking about not killing pathogens. Hot composting does kill pathogens.

Drag jack into this. I got no bones with jack, but since you like to drag other peoples methods around to support yours let me ask you this. Why did you not mention the importance of UV in the coil of the ac to the op?You want to drag jack in yet leave this very important bit of his out. You do know fusarium is one of the hardest issues in growing? You seem to like to use bits and pieces of others info, why not deliver the info entirely that its 50 50 wether or not the spores are in the coil of the ac at best? How are you going to know? Clean the absolute best you can if it comes back replace the coil.Also your a fucking idiot for even trying to insinuate you need to pressure wash or soak sheet rock. If you just sling phsyan or bleach in a room before you get off your lazy ass the spore count is going to be high and shit ton harder to deal with. You gotta put in bit of effort if you want to break the cycle.

To the op clean it best you can to remove as much of the spores you can. Then treat with physan 20. Use hot water crank up your water heater to max temp. Empty your pots in a flood tray. Fill tray with hot water ( as long water is over 120F it will kill the fusarium) let the water sit 30 minutes 45 minutes at most drain and repeat for 8 hours. Once the last hot water cycle is done and majority drain off add 50 50 mix of compost tea and water to get medium dominant with what you want. Let the tea sit long as can 12 hours to a day. Do this in seperate place besides the room you cleaned so the spores are not in that room.

Once you put plants in that medium use a beni with trichodermia and as a prevenative use mycostop when first plant and every 3 weeks for 2 cycles.


I stopped going on boards because theres too many dumbasses that cant sit and think about how something works and benifits. Instead of saying hey explain this more or in more depth the key board jockeys come out. For instance importance of removing everything oil,spores ect out of a room so may have shit load less to deal with, or the differances about composting.

My above post never said wiping room with hot water will end fusarium issue but damn sure had those words put in my mouth. I expected more from 2 mods but looks like usual 400 watt think its 20k, growing dirty, being lazy, cant ask someone what they dont understand to give further details.

Lil bit of info on fusarium if you got the lucky strain that tomatoes deal with if the ph is over 6.0 it does not like it, and powder mildew best way to traet it is PH. Alot of pathogens are ph sensative.

Op I wish you the best, hope if anything you have differant approaches to think about, its up to you to decide whats bestfor you.

To the mods, you both are looked up to. Really crazy 1 wants to throw compost info out thats 1 sided,then you got another throwing words in my mouth. Expected both of you to be bit more level headed and give a person the chance to burry themselves by asking them to clarify. Guess what motherload and wayne maybe next time both of you will ask someone for more info or why they do something, but trust me both of you can go back to your 400watt grow, grow like filthy dirty pigs, spread 1 sided info. My last sentance at the farmm my last post on boards period.

 

[motherlode]

Since its clearly evident that I need to digress from comments I will.

you must not understand what digress means

My last sentance at the farmm

at least you are correct about that

 

[CelticEBE]

Geez......someone forgot to smoke a bit of weed and calm the fuck down before they posted.

 

[motherlode]

just a hell of a way to flame out - he never mentions physan so I did - none of his arguments make sense - your not going keep tap water hot enough to kill shit and all your doing is spreading spores around - why use hot water when you could use hot water and physan - makes no sense - just because im fucking smarter then you doesnt make me lazy - 400 watt light grow - yeah in fucking 1984


so yeah @Confuten1
honestly I would hit that room with fungaflor bomb and then clean it top to bottom with physan - take your fans apart soak the screens/blades and if there is ac then you're going to definitely take apart your blower and think about installing a uv light kit - you will freak the fuck out when you see the shit on your blower even after just 6 months - get a new prefilters for your carbon filters etc - get rid of all the half barrel's - get your shit in trays so your not draining on the floor (that is the one thing that stuck out to me when I saw your setup bro) sitting water is a pet peeve

oh yeah and for fucks sake dont re-use that medium

 

[Confuten1]

sorry but I have to disagree with you on the hot water issue - these are pathogens that attack plants and can survive being composted - there is no valid reason not to use bleach or as I prefer phsyan 20 (which is safe for use on plants as a spray or drench)

as always you should wear a respirator when spraying anything that can irritate your lungs

To sterilize I typically use 91% alcohol,Bleach,and Physan20 as @motherlode suggested....

THanks guys, The last page of the thread got me thinking alot about how i can throughly clean these rooms out.

confu

I also disagee @velocity that you can sterilize reliably with hot water,maybe if you used a power washer with the temp set above 120 degrees,but how practical is that indoors....?

Jackmayoffer passed on the info for using bleach at a rate of 90ml per gallon,and I've had success using that rate to clean rooms that had PM,or other diseases.......

 

[Confuten1]

Let me clear couple things up since my last post. I did not intend for it to post, my phone rang and it must of posted when switched over.

Since its clearly evident that I need to digress from comments I will.

The way I deal with things is not go buy jug of physan 20 and spray it all over the place and hope it works. I clean first stage, treat for second stage, then try to use a product for control for a couple months.

The reason for wiping with hot water is to A.remove excess spores B.To try and removes anything the spores can hang onto, theres going to be a small % of resin all over inside of the room.

Why get dehuyes and run them atleast 5 days nonstop? A. So the water used does not create its own mold in the walls, allow the sheet rock to dry asap without sweating on the inside of the wall cavity. B. If you have a dry room for couple days when you TREAT the room anything thats DRY will SOAK UP the moisture. In this case a physan solution.The spores will be dry and soak the physan up easier than if you didnt dry the room out first.

The op asked about cleaning to me from my interpratation and that was above post response that I didn't intend to post. But I see how it is nobody seems to want and try to do best thing to break the cycle, gotta go gotta go.

Compost is a generic term. There is cold composting, and hot composting. If anyone gets on google and cant figure the differances in then its on them. Theres a reason why hortacultrists use hot composting and also the good od pot growers. Let me clue you in, spores cannot live in a pile thats 140F, why cold composting wich you are talking about not killing pathogens. Hot composting does kill pathogens.

Drag jack into this. I got no bones with jack, but since you like to drag other peoples methods around to support yours let me ask you this. Why did you not mention the importance of UV in the coil of the ac to the op?You want to drag jack in yet leave this very important bit of his out. You do know fusarium is one of the hardest issues in growing? You seem to like to use bits and pieces of others info, why not deliver the info entirely that its 50 50 wether or not the spores are in the coil of the ac at best? How are you going to know? Clean the absolute best you can if it comes back replace the coil.Also your a fucking idiot for even trying to insinuate you need to pressure wash or soak sheet rock. If you just sling phsyan or bleach in a room before you get off your lazy ass the spore count is going to be high and shit ton harder to deal with. You gotta put in bit of effort if you want to break the cycle.

To the op clean it best you can to remove as much of the spores you can. Then treat with physan 20. Use hot water crank up your water heater to max temp. Empty your pots in a flood tray. Fill tray with hot water ( as long water is over 120F it will kill the fusarium) let the water sit 30 minutes 45 minutes at most drain and repeat for 8 hours. Once the last hot water cycle is done and majority drain off add 50 50 mix of compost tea and water to get medium dominant with what you want. Let the tea sit long as can 12 hours to a day. Do this in seperate place besides the room you cleaned so the spores are not in that room.

Once you put plants in that medium use a beni with trichodermia and as a prevenative use mycostop when first plant and every 3 weeks for 2 cycles.


I stopped going on boards because theres too many dumbasses that cant sit and think about how something works and benifits. Instead of saying hey explain this more or in more depth the key board jockeys come out. For instance importance of removing everything oil,spores ect out of a room so may have shit load less to deal with, or the differances about composting.

My above post never said wiping room with hot water will end fusarium issue but damn sure had those words put in my mouth. I expected more from 2 mods but looks like usual 400 watt think its 20k, growing dirty, being lazy, cant ask someone what they dont understand to give further details.

Lil bit of info on fusarium if you got the lucky strain that tomatoes deal with if the ph is over 6.0 it does not like it, and powder mildew best way to traet it is PH. Alot of pathogens are ph sensative.

Op I wish you the best, hope if anything you have differant approaches to think about, its up to you to decide whats bestfor you.

To the mods, you both are looked up to. Really crazy 1 wants to throw compost info out thats 1 sided,then you got another throwing words in my mouth. Expected both of you to be bit more level headed and give a person the chance to burry themselves by asking them to clarify. Guess what motherload and wayne maybe next time both of you will ask someone for more info or why they do something, but trust me both of you can go back to your 400watt grow, grow like filthy dirty pigs, spread 1 sided info. My last sentance at the farmm my last post on boards period.

Hey Man I wanted to tag u in this post but it seems ur account is gone. I hope u read this:
Thank you, you provided us with alot of good information, specifically u got me thinking about how to clean my AC out when i clean the entire room, i almost forgot about that. ( and i knwo that the AC has mold in there because when i drain out the runoff I found the pink mold that is indicitive of fusarism) I called my AC guy @CannabisJohn and we talked about propperly cleaning the unit and adding a uv sterilizer, so much thanks to you!
@motherlode and @waayne were only looking out for me when the disagreed with you on hot water issue but they did so in a non confrontational manner, imo.
You obviously got alot of solid info to share with the community and i hope u stick around and if i could make a suggestion; on these forms, u cant take urself or anybody eleses comments to seriously. alot of things lose context thru typing vs talking. I never take offense to what ppl say unless i notice a repeated pattern of disrespect. Feel free to stop by in my thread anytime and shed somemore info, i appreciate what u have to say. HIt me up if ur were in the SoCal area and we can burn on down.

confu

 

[Confuten1]

just a hell of a way to flame out - he never mentions physan so I did - none of his arguments make sense - your not going keep tap water hot enough to kill shit and all your doing is spreading spores around - why use hot water when you could use hot water and physan - makes no sense - just because im fucking smarter then you doesnt make me lazy - 400 watt light grow - yeah in fucking 1984


so yeah @Confuten1
honestly I would hit that room with fungaflor bomb and then clean it top to bottom with physan - take your fans apart soak the screens/blades and if there is ac then you're going to definitely take apart your blower and think about installing a uv light kit - you will freak the fuck out when you see the shit on your blower even after just 6 months - get a new prefilters for your carbon filters etc - get rid of all the half barrel's - get your shit in trays so your not draining on the floor (that is the one thing that stuck out to me when I saw your setup bro) sitting water is a pet peeve

oh yeah and for fucks sake dont re-use that medium

all good info homie, yea i kno the draining on the floor blows, and the barrel original design incorporates drainage and sitiing on dollys, jus ran out of fun tickets, story of my life. Cant i jus clean the half barrels and instal the drains next round. AND FUCK, Im tired of buying new COCO!! any way to rinse it throughly? like with physan and bleach the claen water, then re innoculate?

confu

 

[Confuten1]

And so the problems begin in the veg/mom room, THe plants all looked amazing until about a week ago or a month into veg:

MOst all the tops now have purple stems. A week ago, they were all green and lush. Im not a quitter, BUT FUCK, i feel like jus saying fuck it sometimes!!

confu

 

[motherlode]

physan would be your safe bet since you can drench and spray plants - i would stay away from bleach in your medium - but i would soak it so its submerged

id chuck it personally but thats how I roll - Im not one for second guessing and dont want have to worry about shit down the line

so there is no confusion I banned him

 

[CelticEBE]

Are you using OG Biowar @Confuten1 ?

 

[Confuten1]

Are you using OG Biowar @Confuten1 ?

yea and bio ags mycos.
confu

 

[Confuten1]

Day 28, and considering the struggle I got going on, im happy with the plants current condition. I been hitting them hard with Chitosan every other feed, and also h202 and enzymes every opposite feed.
The crown rot has been stopped in its tracks, on a few plants the stem actually looks like its repairing itself. I foliar super concentrated chitosan on all the stems. a couple of the plants actually have holes in the stem but the hole is not getting bigger. I can tell its affecting the plants tho because those holey plants have their lower fans all dead, like if they are cannibalizing themselves. Also the plants that are most severally infected have lighter green leaves and their structure is short and bushy, even on the OG dom plants.

Finally fixed up the veg and got the plants off the floor. I also added epson salts per the suggestion of @Billyboat , and plants are happier, Im feeding them 10 mls of Aquaflakes EC at 2.1 and them still seem hungry. I think its time to transplant them

Jus 30 more days to go!! Come on babies jus a lil while longer, u can hold on till then...

confu

 

[MrBelvedere]

And so the problems begin in the veg/mom room, THe plants all looked amazing until about a week ago or a month into veg:

MOst all the tops now have purple stems. A week ago, they were all green and lush. Im not a quitter, BUT FUCK, i feel like jus saying fuck it sometimes!!

confu

View attachment 497827 View attachment 497828 View attachment 497829

The problem with your coco, drainage, aeration and roots look so bad (from the brick pic) they are waterlogged and brick bound and now a breeding ground for mold and other things. And it can't be fixed quickly because there is no drainage. Probably the only way to fertilize now and get results is spraying the ferts on the foliage. The fusarium if you have it was a result of the real problem.... The medium. So the fusarium theory is a wild goose chase. Good luck.