Root Aphid Annhiliation (pics)

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firemanelaflare

firemanelaflare

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here is one of the worst hit spots, you used to not be able to see the coco through the swarm of aphids.
View attachment 291342


and here's some fresh kills:

View attachment 291343


you can see the fungus just starting to pop out of the guy on the left :finger:( i like this smiley where did these guys come from?!)
View attachment 291344
You def had em worst than me but you also have more roots than me I went in with merit 75 first currently waiting on my og bio war I tried to go around @Capulator and buy mycotrol but honestly ogbio war is the best shit you get met52 and mycotrol with a bunch of other shit the mixture isn't as diluted ... mycotrol is 2 lbs for 100 gallons and it has to be used within 24 hours. I'm def looking forward to using og biowar
 
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firemanelaflare

firemanelaflare

98
33
You def had em worst than me but you also have more roots than me I went in with merit 75 first currently waiting on my og bio war I tried to go around @Capulator and buy mycotrol but honestly ogbio war is the best shit you get met52 and mycotrol with a bunch of other shit the mixture isn't as diluted ... mycotrol is 2 lbs for 100 gallons and it has to be used within 24 hours. I'm def looking forward to using og biowar
Oh yeah I don't see them anymore after the merit but I know the fuckers are laying low I plan on using my
Og bio war soon as it lands
 
firemanelaflare

firemanelaflare

98
33
So you didnt use the tablespoon per gallon of water of straight foilar pack to eliminate them, just the brew??
Ok guys...been away from this thread for a hot minute...just thought I'd shoot an update!


The aphid species responsible for all of our troubles is Rhopalosiphum Padi, which is one of the biggest pests to wheat, oats, barley and corn in North America - especially in places that don't see a harsh winter. The aphid themselves are typically not the problem though - R. Padi is known in the entomology world as the main vector for Barley Yellow Dwarf Virus - after collaborating with some guys in a food science program at a university (can't be too specific about that at this time) we're pretty sure BYDV is what's causing most of the telltale signs of infestation as well as long term damage to genetics. We're waiting for the university to get it's hemp program started up and then we will begin sending tissue samples to a lab.

here is what BYDV looks like on affected crops:

View attachment 386471 View attachment 386472


see any similarity to a heavily damaged MMJ plant?

View attachment 386478

here's a simple and sorta cute chart on the 'phid and how it spreads infection
View attachment 386476


I'm still dealing with root aphids every now and then, but a year plus of OG Biowar at least once a week has completely devestated the colony to the point where I never see fliers and I never see a decline in plant health or yield. It's been well over 9 months since I've seen excessive fliers or colonies in the root zone or on sticky traps, and I haven't seen any of the crazy discoloration/stunting that happens with root aphids.
is that full strength once a week?? I'm late as hell lol
 
Capulator

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
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Quick question, have you ever not let the talc settle and watered in the the OG Biowar Tea (Talc and all)?

Yes I have done this many times, but if you do it too often, the talc will create a hardpan on the surface of the soil, and drainage will slow down.
 
K

Kayamon

11
1
Yes I have done this many times, but if you do it too often, the talc will create a hardpan on the surface of the soil, and drainage will slow down.


I appreciate the response, i know you have already told a lot of people which products would be detrimental to the og biowar foliar pack brew for ra annihilation. So this may be like a stupid question, but to you think foliar feeding the natural fungicide in doctorzymes would conflict with the fungus being created in the root zone??
 
K

Kayamon

11
1
and this is what alerted me to the problem - these plants were extremely healthy and communicate better than any crop i've had prior, i swear they had a signal for everything!

here's the "oh shit, there's something in my pants" signal:

View attachment 291345


see how the tips of the leaves are pointing up like that? if those were roots, it would be similar to the tips of the laterals curling up from aphid bites. or at least that's the thought process i was having.

here's the bud on day 10:

View attachment 291346

and the same plant, day 26:
View attachment 291347

you can see the plant is less stressed, it's SAR is fully engaged from the tea. However root aphids really took a toll on the nutrient uptake from the roots. This is the most badly damaged plant in the garden, most likely the vector for the RAs. She's the only one whose colony didn't take a drastic hit from the teas, gonna give her another dose and see if that doesn't knock them out.


Have you had flyers, and if so was the ogbiowar effective?
 
E

EYE1DER

27
3
I just found out i have root aphids in my RDWC. Been growing in coco for years and never had a single problem with RA or had any kind of root problems.

Anyways i have thrown out all my plants in the RDWC :( and all the grow stones with them 3 weeks into veg.
Since this is my first time using RWDC i wont be running anything organic, just base nutes with drip clean, silica, and dutch master zone keeping water temps no higher than 63F

So with that being said how would i go about using the OGbiowar in RDWC with the dutch master zone because it has copper sulfate which is a fungicide.

I emailed them but they don't respond.

Any help would be very much appreciated!
 
firemanelaflare

firemanelaflare

98
33
I just found out i have root aphids in my RDWC. Been growing in coco for years and never had a single problem with RA or had any kind of root problems.

Anyways i have thrown out all my plants in the RDWC :( and all the grow stones with them 3 weeks into veg.
Since this is my first time using RWDC i wont be running anything organic, just base nutes with drip clean, silica, and dutch master zone keeping water temps no higher than 63F

So with that being said how would i go about using the OGbiowar in RDWC with the dutch master zone because it has copper sulfate which is a fungicide.

I emailed them but they don't respond.

Any help would be very much appreciated!
@Capulator will respond he helped me personally on ig
 
EventHorizan

EventHorizan

15,707
438
Yeah brother the foliar pack has several strains of fungi that all wreak havoc on the RA. From the pics... looks like Beavaria. Basically when a spore comes in contact with the exoskeleton of the RA, it germinates and uses the RA as a host. infecting it and growing all over it... sucking the life from it. Then, when other RA come in contact they also get infected. Hence the name "THE ORIGINAL BIOLOGICAL WARFARE". This is natures way of taking care of business, and by the looks of the above pics... it works like a charm.
im using the foliar tonight,, its been brewing for 24 hrs with a root pack.. I have some lil white bugs in my rdwc... And i seen a couple flyers come out my hydroton... So we will see... Im gonna give 50 ml top hand feed to each plant and foliar with it too
 
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firemanelaflare

firemanelaflare

98
33
im using the foliar tonight,, its been brewing for 24 hrs with a root pack.. I have some lil white bugs in my rdwc... And i seen a couple flyers come out my hydroton... So we will see... Im gonna give 50 ml top hand feed to each plant and foliar with it too
Let me know how it works out I used merit 75 killed all the feeders but I'm still seeing these lil translucent creatures they aren't eating the roots the plants are prospering they look like little centipedes scope coming out soon
 
EventHorizan

EventHorizan

15,707
438
Let me know how it works out I used merit 75 killed all the feeders but I'm still seeing these lil translucent creatures they aren't eating the roots the plants are prospering they look like little centipedes scope coming out soon
Well i didnt see no flyers today and i didnt look in the bucket... Its hard to get to... I will feed again in 4 days, and give a few more after that and look in the bucket... Everything looks pretty good tho...
I will let you know what i think...
 
firemanelaflare

firemanelaflare

98
33
Well i didnt see no flyers today and i didnt look in the bucket... Its hard to get to... I will feed again in 4 days, and give a few more after that and look in the bucket... Everything looks pretty good tho...
I will let you know what i think...
So far I have no flyers but those things fucked me so good I really don't have much of a rootball I refuse to start over because i can only have so many plants and I put in time with these plants they are decent sized so I'll just ride it out plus I accepted the fact
Not canning my gene pool and they are at all my spots I'm committed to preventive teas via og biowar I noticed mycotrol kills the fucks too made by botainigard honestly it ain't shit once you get em under control keep the tea flowing
 
firemanelaflare

firemanelaflare

98
33
Well i didnt see no flyers today and i didnt look in the bucket... Its hard to get to... I will feed again in 4 days, and give a few more after that and look in the bucket... Everything looks pretty good tho...
I will let you know what i think...
As of now I'm so committed to tea that I think I'm going to do my whole veg organically. Tea and ph'd water it's funny because I heard @leafdoctor1 say that back at the hydrogiant days and I was steadilly buying veg nutes but I'm taking heed to that shit organics are necessary to protect your plants..... synthetic pesticides only provide so much protection before they become immune god forbid we come across aphids immune to merit 75 when that day comes we are fucked
 
firemanelaflare

firemanelaflare

98
33
Well i didnt see no flyers today and i didnt look in the bucket... Its hard to get to... I will feed again in 4 days, and give a few more after that and look in the bucket... Everything looks pretty good tho...
I will let you know what i think...
Oh yeah usually when you have aphids you'll spring tail bugs also but they leave once the grow medium drys out they don't even bother the plants but they are a sign of decay and fungus
 
E

EYE1DER

27
3
Okay guys I'm joining this tea party! I ordered a couple lbs each of the foilar and root packs. Will be here tomorrow.
I spent most of today taking apart my system and cleaning out white slime and dead aphids carcasses.

I have since than transplanted new cuttings into net pots with grow stones a few days ago and will be adding the tea tomorrow.

That brings me to a question how much of the tea should I be adding to my rdwc? It's around 100 gallons.

Than I will treat again in 4 days right?
Than once every week to maintain?
 
EventHorizan

EventHorizan

15,707
438
Okay guys I'm joining this tea party! I ordered a couple lbs each of the foilar and root packs. Will be here tomorrow.
I spent most of today taking apart my system and cleaning out white slime and dead aphids carcasses.

I have since than transplanted new cuttings into net pots with grow stones a few days ago and will be adding the tea tomorrow.

That brings me to a question how much of the tea should I be adding to my rdwc? It's around 100 gallons.

Than I will treat again in 4 days right?
Than once every week to maintain?
50 ml per gal
 
E

EYE1DER

27
3
One other thing, is it safe to add molasses when making the tea for intended use with dwc? I know your not suppose to add molasses directly to the dwc rez but for brewing the tea should be okay right?
 
EventHorizan

EventHorizan

15,707
438
One other thing, is it safe to add molasses when making the tea for intended use with dwc? I know your not suppose to add molasses directly to the dwc rez but for brewing the tea should be okay right?
yes, in the tea as its bubbling... Dont add it to your dwc bucket or system. I use floraNectar for taste, but it also has some goodies in there to feed the microbes
 

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