Nutes And Forums Are Stressing Me Out

[JakeyBakey]

Greetings,
Try Willards xxx dark water, the real deal, or Willards plant catalyst, lignite and silica, CAW...catalyst altered water carbon water he he...
cw

Thanks for info,
The ingredients on the back are
Humic acid
And
Carbon
What does this stuff do to the plant and at what tines?
Does anybody know?

 

[chillywilly]

Greetings,
One of my main nute starts is raw Peru sea bird guano and humus, but b careful of hi alkalinity, add sugars...my now go to is RUM...
it is molasses , but clarified molasses...let set open for two days to evaporate alcohol then apply...have not found rite app, but plant absorbs quickly than slowly the sugars...he he...as needed, plant gets 'drunk', u get hi...plant morphology...
cw

 

[Organikz]

My nutrient regiment is very complicated. Soil surface compost (organic barley straw and alfalfa hay) and European night crawlers. Refill blumat reservoir once every 2 weeks. I'm exhausted.

#nuteloop

I read a paper stating there are only 2 forms of sugar that are readily available to plants and they can only be achieved through enzymatic activity from microbes feeding on these sugars. So when you feed molasses some sort of inoculate really ramps things up.

In my experience I don't like manipulating bacteria and fungal cultures. My soil will cook my plants if I don't allow them to naturally exude for available nutes. If i even throw coconut water on my soil my plants claw a bit.

 

[Organikz]

Thanks for info,
The ingredients on the back are
Humic acid
And
Carbon
What does this stuff do to the plant and at what tines?
Does anybody know?

This is a microbial culture along with fulvic acid which the microbes feed on and release enzymes. This basically causes massive nutrient uptake. Absolutely necessary in organic coco and some people even use it in living soil.

I cannot edit previous post but I want to mention that this is only my opinions and methods. I know there are a million ways that work fine. I also respect everyone's style. Hell I'd throw down a coco grow if I wasn't so lazy.

 

[chillywilly]

Well, organikz, Nitron A_35, enzyme solution, original old skool...newbies awake!!!trash is always afoot,organics always trumps...

cw

 

[PharmHand]

Because nitrogen is the number 1 thing they try and sell noobs... whats the air made of?
Many brands will double over nutes. Youll buy a base veg and flower nute that has cal/mag in it... then they try and sell you another bottle of cal/mag on the side.(if youre in soil thats way overboard).
I know many people that have completely skipped veg nutes.. used flower nutes through veg and flower and done fine. Dumping more crap in a plant does not mean it will grow faster. Most people's problems come from ph locks... so theyll add more nutrients to a plant without fixing the problem first.
i dont do sweeteners or hardeners either... just start with a good light and good genetics.

If you have ever had a hold over clone or plant in a little solo cup for a month youll see what im talking about... if you keep the ph good the plant will live fine on just water.

This pot was grown with nothing. .. no flower nutes.. some tap water, dirt, sun.. thats it.

Not trying to be a dick or single you out in any way but I've heard this said before recently: the air we breathe is 70something % nitrogen- implying that feeding it to our plants via nutes isn't all that necessary cuz there's so much in the air.... That's extremely misleading especially to newer growers because plants cannot take nitrogen directly from the air it must be first "fixed" by soil bacteria before it can actually be utilized by the plants. Not only that but very few plants are actually known to associate with this bacteria- mainly legumes which cannabis is not. And if you take a look at Fatmans ratios( and other knowledgeable growers, nMeeks etc) you'll see cannabis does in fact require a decent amount of N. I definitely agree most nute companies try to push way too much crap on new growers and if you use calmag etc you gotta make sure you're not overdoing the N. But the one I see over prescribed most is usually P and K trying to convince novices that's the key to huge buds. I read an excellent post by Nmeeks a while back he explained how it's not the concentration or "ppm" of NPK Ca Mg S it's the ratios of one to the others that matters most. That's why it's important to get decent runoff so you always have that perfect ratio in your medium. If you do you can feed FAR less. That was an eye opener for me..... Since then I've cut my nutes to 500-600ppm or less and the health of my plants and final taste/ quality have improved drastically. Again not trying to be a know it all or anything GT just trying to help:)

 

[Organikz]

Not trying to be a dick or single you out in any way but I've heard this said before recently: the air we breathe is 70something % nitrogen- implying that feeding it to our plants via nutes isn't all that necessary cuz there's so much in the air.... That's extremely misleading especially to newer growers because plants cannot take nitrogen directly from the air it must be first "fixed" by soil bacteria before it can actually be utilized by the plants. Not only that but very few plants are actually known to associate with this bacteria- mainly legumes which cannabis is not. And if you take a look at Fatmans ratios( and other knowledgeable growers, nMeeks etc) you'll see cannabis does in fact require a decent amount of N. I definitely agree most nute companies try to push way too much crap on new growers and if you use calmag etc you gotta make sure you're not overdoing the N. But the one I see over prescribed most is usually P and K trying to convince novices that's the key to huge buds. I read an excellent post by Nmeeks a while back he explained how it's not the concentration or "ppm" of NPK Ca Mg S it's the ratios of one to the others that matters most. That's why it's important to get decent runoff so you always have that perfect ratio in your medium. If you do you can feed FAR less. That was an eye opener for me..... Since then I've cut my nutes to 500-600ppm or less and the health of my plants and final taste/ quality have improved drastically. Again not trying to be a know it all or anything GT just trying to help:)

Hell yah. You found the sweet spot. You're absolutely right. Too much nitrogen will lock out calcium and vice versa. I'm so glad I don't have to be an NPK chaser. It gets too complicated then I remind myself my worms are pooping right now. They need to poop out a proper NPK or I'm getting new ones.

 

[MIMedGrower]

Not trying to be a dick or single you out in any way but I've heard this said before recently: the air we breathe is 70something % nitrogen- implying that feeding it to our plants via nutes isn't all that necessary cuz there's so much in the air.... That's extremely misleading especially to newer growers because plants cannot take nitrogen directly from the air it must be first "fixed" by soil bacteria before it can actually be utilized by the plants. Not only that but very few plants are actually known to associate with this bacteria- mainly legumes which cannabis is not. And if you take a look at Fatmans ratios( and other knowledgeable growers, nMeeks etc) you'll see cannabis does in fact require a decent amount of N. I definitely agree most nute companies try to push way too much crap on new growers and if you use calmag etc you gotta make sure you're not overdoing the N. But the one I see over prescribed most is usually P and K trying to convince novices that's the key to huge buds. I read an excellent post by Nmeeks a while back he explained how it's not the concentration or "ppm" of NPK Ca Mg S it's the ratios of one to the others that matters most. That's why it's important to get decent runoff so you always have that perfect ratio in your medium. If you do you can feed FAR less. That was an eye opener for me..... Since then I've cut my nutes to 500-600ppm or less and the health of my plants and final taste/ quality have improved drastically. Again not trying to be a know it all or anything GT just trying to help:)

Really excellent post. I use a grow ratio only in potting soil for the reasons stated.

 

[GT21]

Not trying to be a dick or single you out in any way but I've heard this said before recently: the air we breathe is 70something % nitrogen- implying that feeding it to our plants via nutes isn't all that necessary cuz there's so much in the air.... That's extremely misleading especially to newer growers because plants cannot take nitrogen directly from the air it must be first "fixed" by soil bacteria before it can actually be utilized by the plants. Not only that but very few plants are actually known to associate with this bacteria- mainly legumes which cannabis is not. And if you take a look at Fatmans ratios( and other knowledgeable growers, nMeeks etc) you'll see cannabis does in fact require a decent amount of N. I definitely agree most nute companies try to push way too much crap on new growers and if you use calmag etc you gotta make sure you're not overdoing the N. But the one I see over prescribed most is usually P and K trying to convince novices that's the key to huge buds. I read an excellent post by Nmeeks a while back he explained how it's not the concentration or "ppm" of NPK Ca Mg S it's the ratios of one to the others that matters most. That's why it's important to get decent runoff so you always have that perfect ratio in your medium. If you do you can feed FAR less. That was an eye opener for me..... Since then I've cut my nutes to 500-600ppm or less and the health of my plants and final taste/ quality have improved drastically. Again not trying to be a know it all or anything GT just trying to help:)

To say that bacteria is the only way to fix is the only misleading part. He is correct about the ppms vs ratio.

nitrogen fixation, any natural or industrial process that causes free nitrogen (N2), which is a relatively inert gas plentiful in air, to combine chemically with other elements to form more-reactive nitrogen compounds such as ammonia, nitrates, or nitrites.

^^^^ this is the kinda stuff i love... its in my 7th grade earth science books... the class is learning about amorphous rocks today!!!! Woohooo

 

[PharmHand]

To say that bacteria is the only way to fix is the only misleading part. He is correct about the ppms vs ratio.

nitrogen fixation, any natural or industrial process that causes free nitrogen (N2), which is a relatively inert gas plentiful in air, to combine chemically with other elements to form more-reactive nitrogen compounds such as ammonia, nitrates, or nitrites.
View attachment 699099

^^^^ this is the kinda stuff i love... its in my 7th grade earth science books... the class is learning about amorphous rocks today!!!! Woohooo

Didn't say it was the only way to fix N, I said for plants to be able to directly use that 70% N gas in the air we breathe bacteria must first fix it(convert it to plant usable form) and it's mainly legumes that form this association to acquire any appreciable amount of N.
Props to ya for being a teacher man it takes a good person to go to school for that long knowing it's not the most financially rewarding career. My sister her whole life said she was gonna be a teacher did a few years of uni and decided if she gonna go to school that long she wanted to get PAID lol so she became a lawyer lol. We grew up poor I don't blame her haha. Peace bro:)

 

[GT21]

Didn't say it was the only way to fix N, I said for plants to be able to directly use that 70% N gas in the air we breathe bacteria must first fix it(convert it to plant usable form) and it's mainly legumes that form this association to acquire any appreciable amount of N.
Props to ya for being a teacher man it takes a good person to go to school for that long knowing it's not the most financially rewarding career. My sister her whole life said she was gonna be a teacher did a few years of uni and decided if she gonna go to school that long she wanted to get PAID lol so she became a lawyer lol. We grew up poor I don't blame her haha. Peace bro:)

Thanks bud.. ya.. I've run a lot of plant on just ffof and pk and done great... another guy i know uses botanicare bloom and koolbloom... another guy used bloom in coco in veg.

 

[GT21]

Ya i really dig this... dont be a cannabis specialist. .. do plant science

 

[ArmedGeek]

Thanks everyone for all the replies, i really appreciate it. I can't agree more about plant science in general. After much research i decided to go with Advanced Nutrients, DWC RO water. My only regret...not really knowing how much of each to use until i read the bottle. This led me to buying 4 liter bottles which i don't need for four plants.

Connoisseur Grow part A & B
Connoisseur Bloom part A & B
Rhino Skin
Piranna
(Extras)
Bud Candy
Big Bud
Flawless Finish
Cal-Mag
General Hydroponics PH up/down

 

[MIMedGrower]

Ya i really dig this... dont be a cannabis specialist. .. do plant science

I like how he says that with the knowledge we know how to stay out of the plants way.

 

[PharmHand]

Thanks everyone for all the replies, i really appreciate it. I can't agree more about plant science in general. After much research i decided to go with Advanced Nutrients, DWC RO water. My only regret...not really knowing how much of each to use until i read the bottle. This led me to buying 4 liter bottles which i don't need for four plants.

Connoisseur Grow part A & B
Connoisseur Bloom part A & B
Rhino Skin
Piranna
(Extras)
Bud Candy
Big Bud
Flawless Finish
Cal-Mag
General Hydroponics PH up/down

View attachment 699437

I used advanced for many years it does work well just can get a little pricey when using all of their additives. Connoisseur is strong so I'd go really light on it I bet in rdwc you could get away with 1/3 strength or less. They put a lot of humic/fulvic/yucca in there which helps make everything more available and dam near every additive has kelp in it which seems a little redundant. I'd keep that piranha in the fridge that shits so pricey I'd wanna try to preserve whatever life is left in there

 

[sixstring]

Like anything i do, i put in my time. I do the research, ask the questions and second guess myself the whole way through. In the end, it normally works out. But...it seems to always be a battle.

As a new grower, i understand the answers are out there if you dig enough. The problem is, you have to filter through so much BS to find these answers. You would think this type of culture would get along. One thing i have learned regarding forums, everyone has an opinion. That's great and all, but for a new grower, how do i know the information i'm getting is actually legit? I have over 2k in my first grow as far as equipment. This might sound petty to some, and high priced to others. It's a lot of money for me and i want to grow the best medicine i can.

When it comes to nutes, this is the BIGGEST struggle i have as far as getting proper information. While i like to follow the model KISS (keep it simple stupid) i'm dealing with limited room in a 4x4 tent so would like to use nutes that seriously give me the biggest and best yields.

I'm all for nutes that have some type of recipe with them, rather online or whatever. As a first time grower, this at the VERY least gives me a good idea of how much to use and when to use it. Mind you, i have to figure out my own ratios as far as how much to use in some regards during certain stages. BUT...at least i have the general idea. Technaflora is GREAT for this with there easy recipe guide. They have a whole step by step process to use. I would go this route, however i can't find many pictures toward the harvest to see the actual results from the product.

Advanced nutrients....I can actually find reviews and pictures regarding the harvest stages from the product. The problem is, on there web site when you actually go to "the nutrient calculator" it doesn't help ma person like me what so ever! As a young grass hopper, quite honestly it doesn't tell me sh*t! I have no "schedule to say" and when i say schedule i'm saying a good idea of at least which products to use, how much and when and then tailor my own needs for specific strengths.

When i read other peoples grow logs, they might use a mixture of multiple things and that's great. But...i can't really play along because i need extra guidance. I can't explain how stressful this is starting to be. Once i get this grow going, i'll have the time to actually dig in deep to the actual specifics of photosynthesis etc. From there, i'll be able to taylor my own.

In the mean time....Please help me out here people...I wanna hear from the true old school growers who probably understand the struggle.

i dont see where you say how you will be growing ,is it dirt or hydro or ? anyhow if you want simple it dont get more simple than promix and jacks classics.1/2 tsp per gal for seeds n clones,1 tsp per gal for larger veg stage and thats it.once your 2 weeks into flower switch to the 10-30-20 bloom boost and stay at 1 tsp per gal.all that other shit is complicated.even going organic has turned into a major fuckin project with all the cover crops and mycos and worm shit and ect ect ect lol. JACK THAT SHIT UP !!!!
https://www.walmart.com/ip/TT-UP-J-...1172&wl11=online&wl12=648553448&wl13=&veh=sem

 

[ArmedGeek]

I used advanced for many years it does work well just can get a little pricey when using all of their additives. Connoisseur is strong so I'd go really light on it I bet in rdwc you could get away with 1/3 strength or less. They put a lot of humic/fulvic/yucca in there which helps make everything more available and dam near every additive has kelp in it which seems a little redundant. I'd keep that piranha in the fridge that shits so pricey I'd wanna try to preserve whatever life is left in there

Hey good looking out, I didn't know I should keep pirana In the fridge. Thanks for that man

 

[ArmedGeek]

I'll be growing in DWC man i've said it a few times but i know how easy it is to skip over.

 

[sixstring]

For dwc use ionic.almost as easy as jacks.grow for veg bloom for flower,make the switch @ the end of week 2 flower.drop 1 dose of boost in the beginning of wks 3,4,5,6 and thats it.i ran it for years,10 ml per gal in veg and 15 in flower.

 

[sixstring]

The reason i suggest doing what i said is to simplify the feeding aspect as much as possible. Almost all new growers complicate the shit out of the nutrients then make a bunch of "help me " posts lol.advanced nutes are a chore to dial in because they make youthink you need the full lineup.decent lights,simple nutes and keeping your environment in check is all it takes to grow the dank :)
Temps in your buckets will be another thing to watch,if you can keep them on a cold floor like cement i suggest you do it.once they hit about 74f you will start seeing root issues most likely.soil is much easier for the first few grows but lots of people start with hydro.gl