Nutes And Forums Are Stressing Me Out

[Pimples]

Just a for instance example...Awhile back I bought a small bag of RAW Omina aminos (RAW stuff is overpriced btw - but i just wanted to try it)..I gave my tanks and foliars like 1/8 of a tsp per gallon of water. My strains responded like no other. No joke. Extreme frost and overall healthy vigor on all the strains. Very noticeable. It absolutely blew out any results I got in the past from Liquid Karma..Trinity..Nirvana..Florablend..Vitamino..all of the shit I used before.

 

[PharmHand]

You can use a super cheap base nutrient like Jacks or Maxi or Dyna that has all essential minerals and grow nice crops. Save a ton of coin. Then when you get the hang of it...start sourcing and buying the "big 5" biostimulants for that extra push. A pound or two of Agsil Silica...Humic/Fulvic...Yucca...Kelp Seaweed (cold processed for the phytohormones) and your Amino Acids (soy or fish protein hydrolysate). It should last an average home hobby grower quite a long time. In dry powder form..from Kelp4less or some other inexpensive source. And skip all the fancy bottle high dollar stuff from the shops. BOOM...you just acquired the entire hydroponic shop additives for 1/50th of the cost. Its exactly whats in them bottles without the 500% markup. Plus you know exactly what your feeding and no "mystery" ingredients like artificial PGR's and whatnot. And you can dial in specifically what you need per plant or cultivar and learn it. No one size fits all. An added benefit is concentration. Most of the hydro shop bottled additives are extremely watered down. Screw all that.

Hell yea dude. When I used to do organic I'd shop at the ag supply stores to get supplies like liquid kelp ,it's omri listed 80$ for a 10l jug from Acadian seaplants which happens to be one of only a handful of seaweed processing facilities in the world which is also where companies like AN and GH likely source their ascophyllum nodosum. They buy it in bulk and dilute the fuck out of it then it sits in a warehouse for who knows how long usually going rancid which is what gives products like GH bioweed their nasty smell. The shit I bought smells so sweet I almost wanna drink it every time I use it.
I'd buy my fish hydrolysate from pacific natural fertilizer literally straight outta the factory where it's processed. 40$ for a 10L. Dude there said AN buys from them and they use it in products like iguana juice which is mostly diluted fish hydrolysate w a few other things. And guess what that shit fresh doesn't smell nearly as bad as iguana.
I found a place that sells substrates like peat, coco, perlite etc. Got my own special blend w whatever amendments I wanted all for less than half what I'd pay at a hydro store even w a good discount.
It's an industry of vipers and half these companies owners know absolutely nothing about growing at all basing their products usually on outdated science just look at all the blurple LEDs out there still. They just have money and wanna cash in on dumb stoners- and it works for them. People think just because someone sells a product they know what they're doing most cases they do not. Rant over haha

 

[EventHorizan]

I have used AN pH Perfect Sensi Grow A & B for coco coir with my tap water (0.2 EC 7.5 pH) at label directions and it lowered my nutrient solution no lower than 6.3 - 6.4 pH. Using my trusty Bluelab Combo Meter with a fairly new pH probe and calibrated every 7 to 10 days using fresh calibration solutions. Its not pH Perfect with my tap water. I still have to use some pH down to get it in the sweet spot of 5.8 - 6.2. I use less but I still have to use it. According to some AN reps and vids...a meter should automatically read and put the solution in the sweet spot. I gave the rest of the AN Sensi Grow to my cousin. It works but I gave up on AN awhile back. Too many bottles...too expensive...too much marketing.

that should be its own sticky!

1.5 and 2 per 1000 watt mogul socket is par for the course. Thats damn good. Its what i hit in my mogul socket room. Anyone hitting 1.5 or more on traditional thousand watters...that's pretty good. Most people that say crazy shit like 3 or 4 pounds per are full of shit. Or its bunk bottoms..not trimmed to a standard or not dried and cured correctly. Believe that. And the ones you know are pulling your leg say its easy on top of it. Lol. Dont believe them. Its tall tales and the web and forums are rife with these people.

I agree.. Honestly im still working for 1 on 1k se... I feel bad when ppl say 2 or 2.5, makes me think i got a long way to go... We will see what my last ends up being. Im determined to get 1 a light on my next run! And I have had some big colas.. This is 1600 watts and i can tell they aint 4#

 

[EventHorizan]

that should be its own sticky!

I agree.. Honestly im still working for 1 on 1k se... I feel bad when ppl say 2 or 2.5, makes me think i got a long way to go... We will see what my last ends up being. Im determined to get 1 a light on my next run! And I have had some big colas.. This is 1600 watts and i can tell they aint 4#

I think my problem is prob not lollipoping high enough to force all that energy into the tops. I lollipop but maybe not enough... Prob need to start using a scrog net again too..

 

[Pimples]

that should be its own sticky!

I agree.. Honestly im still working for 1 on 1k se... I feel bad when ppl say 2 or 2.5, makes me think i got a long way to go... We will see what my last ends up being. Im determined to get 1 a light on my next run! And I have had some big colas.. This is 1600 watts and i can tell they aint 4#

Nuggets. Looks damn fine to me. Nkce job.

 

[EventHorizan]

Nuggets. Looks damn fine to me. Nkce job.

Thanks, but in def ready to get my gpw up over 1 per tho. If my damn state would just get legal, then i could concentrate on growing instead of making sure i dont snub my toe...

 

[chillywilly]

Greetings,
Has anyone try Wachter's Sea Spraa sea weed, not your average kelp

 

[PharmHand]

Thanks, but in def ready to get my gpw up over 1 per tho. If my damn state would just get legal, then i could concentrate on growing instead of making sure i dont snub my toe...

Just keep plugging away buddy you'll get it.... Not sure how long you've been at it but I went a good few years without even breaking 1per KW. I'd say one of the most important things is your veg/early flower canopy preparation.
So let's say your 1k bulb does a 5x5 square ,which is 25sqft ,to get 2 per light, that's 900gr so divide 900by 25= 36g a sqft or a little under 1.5oz. So whether you have one plant per light or 30 you've got to have the tops and branches to produce that zip n half per sqft under every light everywhere consistently with little to no light hitting the floor. In your pics you've got some good sized buds it would appear those buds are no smaller than the buds in my room when I hit 3 but I'd bet your room wasn't a solid canopy of buds that size. I use plastic trellis that's got 6" squares so that's four squares per sq ft I aim to have one killer top per 6" square with maybe a few secondaries, depending on strain. Knowing your strain and mono cropping makes it a lot easier to have that solid level canopy.
Of course having a dialed room is key but if that room isn't full to capacity then you're not gonna hit good numbers regardless. Nutes are important but as long as the plants needs are met brands don't too much matter. So knowing how much they need before you get any kind of tip burn is very important as over feeding will actually hold them back.
Another thing that makes a massive difference I feel is temperature control. So in veg and early bud (first 3-5w, strain dependent ) keeping it warm 80-85f (measured at plant tops) 70-75% humidity day and night equal with about 1100ppm co2 (day time)will top out the plants metabolism and help you build that structure you need to fill those squares. Once they're done growing in height I do a heavy prune leaving only 12-18" and if the canopy is still too tight I'll do a deleafing a week later. So usually I'll prune heavy at 3 weeks and a selective deleaf at 4. Note if your canopy is tight by 2 weeks in a selective deleafing then can help reduce stretch too. I also start dropping the temps and humidity bout 4-5 weeks in maybe a couple degrees a week so by week 7-8 it's about 75ish at plant tops. Sometimes I'll do a lil deleaf again around 6-7 weeks too to help fatten up any lowers. The last couple weeks I drop to about 72f with night temps around 65.
You gotta work your ladies to make em put out don't leave them to their own devices they'll grow all lazy and unproductive. A good book I read many years ago Secrets of High Yield Gardening by graham reinders is a good read if you're interested. :) Good luck bro

 

[Pimples]

Thanks, but in def ready to get my gpw up over 1 per tho. If my damn state would just get legal, then i could concentrate on growing instead of making sure i dont snub my toe...

Hitting a gram per watt is over 2 pounds a thousand watt. Its not easy..despite what people on grow forums claim. Trust me. You have to pretty much grow one strain that is a high yielder with a proven track record. Then spend all your time managing the canopy...tying down. Pruning. Staking. The nutrients are really at the bottom of the list of criteria. Any decent base will almost always suffice. Net trellis...sometimes double tiered net trellis for an even full canopy of pre flower node tops. Having a sealed room with perfect temps humidity and co2 and be able to control them precisely according to a schedule and plant needs is key. The proper equipment to do this is expensive to buy & expensive to pay in electricity. Also....If your running air cooled hoods with glass...It is much much easier to hit the numbers if you ditch all that (duct work...clunky hoods...dirty glass...loud inline fans) and run small efficient regular reflectors. Like i said...hitting a gram or more per watt isn't easy. Its expensive...tricky...and a hell of alot of work. Many claim otherwise. Many are full of shit.

 

[Pimples]

Just keep plugging away buddy you'll get it.... Not sure how long you've been at it but I went a good few years without even breaking 1per KW. I'd say one of the most important things is your veg/early flower canopy preparation.
So let's say your 1k bulb does a 5x5 square ,which is 25sqft ,to get 2 per light, that's 900gr so divide 900by 25= 36g a sqft or a little under 1.5oz. So whether you have one plant per light or 30 you've got to have the tops and branches to produce that zip n half per sqft under every light everywhere consistently with little to no light hitting the floor. In your pics you've got some good sized buds it would appear those buds are no smaller than the buds in my room when I hit 3 but I'd bet your room wasn't a solid canopy of buds that size. I use plastic trellis that's got 6" squares so that's four squares per sq ft I aim to have one killer top per 6" square with maybe a few secondaries, depending on strain. Knowing your strain and mono cropping makes it a lot easier to have that solid level canopy.
Of course having a dialed room is key but if that room isn't full to capacity then you're not gonna hit good numbers regardless. Nutes are important but as long as the plants needs are met brands don't too much matter. So knowing how much they need before you get any kind of tip burn is very important as over feeding will actually hold them back.
Another thing that makes a massive difference I feel is temperature control. So in veg and early bud (first 3-5w, strain dependent ) keeping it warm 80-85f (measured at plant tops) 70-75% humidity day and night equal with about 1100ppm co2 (day time)will top out the plants metabolism and help you build that structure you need to fill those squares. Once they're done growing in height I do a heavy prune leaving only 12-18" and if the canopy is still too tight I'll do a deleafing a week later. So usually I'll prune heavy at 3 weeks and a selective deleaf at 4. Note if your canopy is tight by 2 weeks in a selective deleafing then can help reduce stretch too. I also start dropping the temps and humidity bout 4-5 weeks in maybe a couple degrees a week so by week 7-8 it's about 75ish at plant tops. Sometimes I'll do a lil deleaf again around 6-7 weeks too to help fatten up any lowers. The last couple weeks I drop to about 72f with night temps around 65.
You gotta work your ladies to make em put out don't leave them to their own devices they'll grow all lazy and unproductive. A good book I read many years ago Secrets of High Yield Gardening by graham reinders is a good read if you're interested. :) Good luck bro

Good post and pretty spot on. You wanna be able to control temps relative humidity and carbon dioxide levels precisely as the flowering plants progress and mature. The proven commercial cultivars all have a sweet spot that the grower has to dial in. Basically and in general...you want higher temps and humidity with lower co2 levels when you first flip to 12 - 12. And lowering temps and humidity while raising co2 (to a point) in weekly (some growers with good equipment can control this daily) increments. At final 7 to 14 days or so alot of good growers find the temps in the low seventies or even high sixties and relative humidity in the low forties or high thirties. For alot of strains its goldilocks zone for the frostiest of prime juicy colas. No nutrient brand or bottle is gonna do that. They all perform similar when you have a dialed room with precise control over the environment. Or you can say fuck this shit and settle for 20 to 25 ounces a lamp and save a ton of money..time and work. Leave the hog harvests for the outdoor season. But once you start nailing it in the growroom and have it all dialed in...it does get more consistent and then its just a matter of replication until you decide to run a different strain.

 

[Pimples]

By the way...the newer double ended commercial hps lamps make hitting the numbers a hell of alot easier.

 

[EventHorizan]

Just keep plugging away buddy you'll get it.... Not sure how long you've been at it but I went a good few years without even breaking 1per KW. I'd say one of the most important things is your veg/early flower canopy preparation.
So let's say your 1k bulb does a 5x5 square ,which is 25sqft ,to get 2 per light, that's 900gr so divide 900by 25= 36g a sqft or a little under 1.5oz. So whether you have one plant per light or 30 you've got to have the tops and branches to produce that zip n half per sqft under every light everywhere consistently with little to no light hitting the floor. In your pics you've got some good sized buds it would appear those buds are no smaller than the buds in my room when I hit 3 but I'd bet your room wasn't a solid canopy of buds that size. I use plastic trellis that's got 6" squares so that's four squares per sq ft I aim to have one killer top per 6" square with maybe a few secondaries, depending on strain. Knowing your strain and mono cropping makes it a lot easier to have that solid level canopy.
Of course having a dialed room is key but if that room isn't full to capacity then you're not gonna hit good numbers regardless. Nutes are important but as long as the plants needs are met brands don't too much matter. So knowing how much they need before you get any kind of tip burn is very important as over feeding will actually hold them back.
Another thing that makes a massive difference I feel is temperature control. So in veg and early bud (first 3-5w, strain dependent ) keeping it warm 80-85f (measured at plant tops) 70-75% humidity day and night equal with about 1100ppm co2 (day time)will top out the plants metabolism and help you build that structure you need to fill those squares. Once they're done growing in height I do a heavy prune leaving only 12-18" and if the canopy is still too tight I'll do a deleafing a week later. So usually I'll prune heavy at 3 weeks and a selective deleaf at 4. Note if your canopy is tight by 2 weeks in a selective deleafing then can help reduce stretch too. I also start dropping the temps and humidity bout 4-5 weeks in maybe a couple degrees a week so by week 7-8 it's about 75ish at plant tops. Sometimes I'll do a lil deleaf again around 6-7 weeks too to help fatten up any lowers. The last couple weeks I drop to about 72f with night temps around 65.
You gotta work your ladies to make em put out don't leave them to their own devices they'll grow all lazy and unproductive. A good book I read many years ago Secrets of High Yield Gardening by graham reinders is a good read if you're interested. :) Good luck bro

Some really good info! And I concur on all of it... So I have a vented hood but i put it up after my first grow, and went with batwing open air. I run rdwc ( no chiller ). I have a 10 x 10 room. I have 8k btu window unit ac, and a 70 pint dehuey, and a humidfier, all ran off a Digital Autopilot controller. I have been running 75* and 63% rh from start to finish. Well the last week i drop the rh to 45 and drain my buckets of all water and let them start the drying process while finishing. I also drop my night time temps the last couple weeks to 65* I just need to run a trellis again. My second grow i grew 1 plant in a trellis and got 300g with a 600 hps. But i didnt like not being able to pick my netpot up.. I was always looking at the roots back then,,, Since then my fav thing to do is top 1, and then supercrop...
If I add the trellis in there, I think I got a chance...

 

[EventHorizan]

Hitting a gram per watt is over 2 pounds a thousand watt. Its not easy..despite what people on grow forums claim. Trust me. You have to pretty much grow one strain that is a high yielder with a proven track record. Then spend all your time managing the canopy...tying down. Pruning. Staking. The nutrients are really at the bottom of the list of criteria. Any decent base will almost always suffice. Net trellis...sometimes double tiered net trellis for an even full canopy of pre flower node tops. Having a sealed room with perfect temps humidity and co2 and be able to control them precisely according to a schedule and plant needs is key. The proper equipment to do this is expensive to buy & expensive to pay in electricity. Also....If your running air cooled hoods with glass...It is much much easier to hit the numbers if you ditch all that (duct work...clunky hoods...dirty glass...loud inline fans) and run small efficient regular reflectors. Like i said...hitting a gram or more per watt isn't easy. Its expensive...tricky...and a hell of alot of work. Many claim otherwise. Many are full of shit.

I know it aint, and I know a lot of ppl blowing smoke and here is how I know...
All and all I have some pretty decent plants, and some pretty decent colas, and i still only hit .5 to .7 gpw... on my best day! So I know your right... I wanted to add c02 at some point, but sealing a room completely is proving to be harder than I thought.. When Sour Urkle decided to make herself known that last week, I thought she was gonna get us busted.. She is loud! Was really happy to get her chopped and hung. I think a chiller for my rdwc unit is prob my best next investment...

 

[PharmHand]

By the way...the newer double ended commercial hps lamps make hitting the numbers a hell of alot easier.

* To clarify......I was talking pounds per kw*

 

[Leew421]

Best thing to do is just pick something and try it out. Plants will tell you what they need. You can find sample packs at hydro stores and online that will give you a line of products to try out.

 

[PharmHand]

I know it aint, and I know a lot of ppl blowing smoke and here is how I know...
All and all I have some pretty decent plants, and some pretty decent colas, and i still only hit .5 to .7 gpw... on my best day! So I know your right... I wanted to add c02 at some point, but sealing a room completely is proving to be harder than I thought.. When Sour Urkle decided to make herself known that last week, I thought she was gonna get us busted.. She is loud! Was really happy to get her chopped and hung. I think a chiller for my rdwc unit is prob my best next investment...

If you're hitting .7gpw without co2 you WILL hit at least 2# per light with co2. The best I've ever done without co2 is 1.5. I flowered in my veg room which is vented while also flowering in my flower room with co2. Same nutrient regime, same lights etc.... Co2 room hit 2+, vented 1.5 at best. I've heard it said, and I completely agree, that if you're growing with artificial light and not using co2 supplementation you are wasting electricity. Also quality bulbs like Hortilux are definitely worth the cost difference; they will pay for themselves first go

 

[GrowingGreen]

I screwed myself from the beginning by purchasing AN. I agree with keeping PH in check, during veg i'm keeping it at 5.8. I'm seeing fluctuation to 6.1 but doesn't rise any higher (for now). What i find confusing is the fact AN states to NEVER adjust for PH fluctuation with the PH perfect line up. This goes against everything i have learned about nutrient availability. I'm still adjusting the PH manually, but AN reps swear up and down to not do this. It just adds to more confusion. If i didn't have so much money wrapped up in nutes i would toss it in the trash and go with something simple.

The ph perfect works if your only using the base nute, & ro water in my experience with them as soon as you add the other bottles into recipe ph perfect go out the window

 

[EventHorizan]

If you're hitting .7gpw without co2 you WILL hit at least 2# per light with co2. The best I've ever done without co2 is 1.5. I flowered in my veg room which is vented while also flowering in my flower room with co2. Same nutrient regime, same lights etc.... Co2 room hit 2+, vented 1.5 at best. I've heard it said, and I completely agree, that if you're growing with artificial light and not using co2 supplementation you are wasting electricity. Also quality bulbs like Hortilux are definitely worth the cost difference; they will pay for themselves first go

Interesting, and thanks for some clarification! I do use the super horti 1k bulbs, and I can see a difference between it and my reg hps... I wish I had the head room for a de... Maybe in the future I can get in a situation that allows me to use one...