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Council Of First Knowledge, Jedi Temple Training Facility

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Council Of First Knowledge, Jedi Temple Training Facility

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You won't have to change your nutrients at all. Just follow the ratios recommended by the maker. however, keep them lower than they recommend. The best results I've seen from DWC has been with lower PPM. Ignore the people posting their 2000ppm pics, it stresses the plant. Many growers that have been using this system for years prefer PPM under 600. I run mine under 1000 (prefer the 700-900 range) and I run a couple more additives than them.

Also, I never drain my system anymore until the last week of flowering. In fact myself and many other growers that use compost tea in their deep water system save a lot of money in the long run because we never empty our our systems until we are doing the last week of flush. I just stay at 800-1000 ppm and top off until that the last week of flush. More importantly we get RESULTS. Great taste, yield, healthier plants..etc. You'll love compost tea too.

Seeding your compost tea:
I forgot to mention, you can actually save a lot of money by just SEEDING a compost tea bucket. Because you're just using the humus and castings to "seed" your compost tea and breed the beneficial bacteria that comes from them, if you have a dedicated compost tea bucket you just need to keep it aerated and add food (molases) every couple of days. So you really don't need to buy big bag of worm castings/ humus. You just need to seed your compost bucket once and keep that air pump running 24/7, top off with water, and feed your bacteria as if it was a fish tank. =) It's also cheap.

There is a local hydro store owner that sells her compost tea for over $12 a gallon. She just seeded her large 200 gallon brewer once, and now just adds some molasses and sea kelp twice a week and tops off with water.


@Wisher619 so i copied this from another thread thats about 2 yrs old... What you think about it, mainly the 2 things concerning,,,
1. SEEDING a compost bucket
AND
2. Also, I never drain my system anymore until the last week of flowering. In fact myself and many other growers that use compost tea in their deep water system save a lot of money in the long run because we never empty our our systems until we are doing the last week of flush. I just stay at 800-1000 ppm and top off until that the last week of flush.
im gonna start a thread about this.. I want as many opinions as i can get, but i wanted yours first..
 
You won't have to change your nutrients at all. Just follow the ratios recommended by the maker. however, keep them lower than they recommend. The best results I've seen from DWC has been with lower PPM. Ignore the people posting their 2000ppm pics, it stresses the plant. Many growers that have been using this system for years prefer PPM under 600. I run mine under 1000 (prefer the 700-900 range) and I run a couple more additives than them.

Also, I never drain my system anymore until the last week of flowering. In fact myself and many other growers that use compost tea in their deep water system save a lot of money in the long run because we never empty our our systems until we are doing the last week of flush. I just stay at 800-1000 ppm and top off until that the last week of flush. More importantly we get RESULTS. Great taste, yield, healthier plants..etc. You'll love compost tea too.

Seeding your compost tea:
I forgot to mention, you can actually save a lot of money by just SEEDING a compost tea bucket. Because you're just using the humus and castings to "seed" your compost tea and breed the beneficial bacteria that comes from them, if you have a dedicated compost tea bucket you just need to keep it aerated and add food (molases) every couple of days. So you really don't need to buy big bag of worm castings/ humus. You just need to seed your compost bucket once and keep that air pump running 24/7, top off with water, and feed your bacteria as if it was a fish tank. =) It's also cheap.

There is a local hydro store owner that sells her compost tea for over $12 a gallon. She just seeded her large 200 gallon brewer once, and now just adds some molasses and sea kelp twice a week and tops off with water.


@Wisher619 so i copied this from another thread thats about 2 yrs old... What you think about it, mainly the 2 things concerning,,,
1. SEEDING a compost bucket
AND
2. Also, I never drain my system anymore until the last week of flowering. In fact myself and many other growers that use compost tea in their deep water system save a lot of money in the long run because we never empty our our systems until we are doing the last week of flush. I just stay at 800-1000 ppm and top off until that the last week of flush.
well I am not sure with DWC
I know people that dont change out in F&D
but I have never heard of that in DWC

as for the tea
I gues that could work
adding kelp and Molasses can probably work

but I can get you some papers on tea and how it works
studies from Universities that state that things start to die after 48hours
even when fed
the studies also show how one will outgrow and dominate all others....of course that would be the same in the root zone
a mix of fungi and bacteria is best
something like Hydroguard or Mammoth P are extremely dominate
that basically they outlive all others in extreme enviroments
 
well I am not sure with DWC
I know people that dont change out in F&D
but I have never heard of that in DWC

as for the tea
I gues that could work
adding kelp and Molasses can probably work

but I can get you some papers on tea and how it works
studies from Universities that state that things start to die after 48hours
even when fed
the studies also show how one will outgrow and dominate all others....of course that would be the same in the root zone
a mix of fungi and bacteria is best
something like Hydroguard or Mammoth P are extremely dominate
that basically they outlive all others in extreme enviroments
would it make a differeance to bubble hydrogaurd for 24 hrs? And can i use ffof or happy frog with molasses, to make tea? It has ewc in it and mycos.
 
would it make a differeance to bubble hydrogaurd for 24 hrs? And can i use ffof or happy frog with molasses, to make tea? It has ewc in it and mycos.
no dont use the bag potting soil for tea

and no just put hydroguard in the water and shake

but if you have tea I would use that to water in instead of just water
but if no tea Hydroguard and water will do just fine
 
@Wisher619
So i found a seed in one of my clones. Now so far i havent found anymore, and i gave a decent look over plus i pulled off a bud on the same plant just a lil lower and found nothing... now here is the crazy thing... the seed was huge, and it was really mature, brown, a good looking seed.. reminded me of seeds we used to get in the 80's of red haired scents as we called it... not lil seeds like we see today..
Light leak early on? Im at 6 weeks today...
that seems really quick for a seed to mature... im confused here.
 
@Wisher619
So i found a seed in one of my clones. Now so far i havent found anymore, and i gave a decent look over plus i pulled off a bud on the same plant just a lil lower and found nothing... now here is the crazy thing... the seed was huge, and it was really mature, brown, a good looking seed.. reminded me of seeds we used to get in the 80's of red haired scents as we called it... not lil seeds like we see today..
Light leak early on? Im at 6 weeks today...
that seems really quick for a seed to mature... im confused here.
that depends
I think it was from CrayCray
and it was probably inoculated really early
usually day 21 if hit with pollen by week 6 the seeds should be pretty mature
 
that depends
I think it was from CrayCray
and it was probably inoculated really early
usually day 21 if hit with pollen by week 6 the seeds should be pretty mature
so i only found a few seeds from kray kray,, 3
And i only found one so far ... Lmao Could it be possible to only get one seed out of the deal?
 
that depends
I think it was from CrayCray
and it was probably inoculated really early
usually day 21 if hit with pollen by week 6 the seeds should be pretty mature
And day 21 is about the day i found the seeds on kray kray and removed her! So that makes sense... I took the seed and started soaking it in water immediately to germ it,,...once its germed, It will go in soil, and then outside
 
Got my soil girls in thier tent... they are on 14-4-2-4- light schedule to mimic the outside daylight when they go out in a couple weeks... already got 1 peeking :)
Bottom pics of Urkles girl....
 

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I always hear you guys talk about soil ph and all, but im using ffof and happy frog, with just plain water... So i dont need to worry about ph eh?
If i make up nutes down the road that is what i need to ph correct?
 
I never PH my outdoor grows even when i add the nutes.My water last PH test was 6.5,if you have good water & soil i don't see the need. some do and claim it is necessary to allow all the micro nutes to be absorbed by the plant at different PH levels.My seedling started to lighten in color at 3 weeks so i gave them a light feeding and they are back on track.I noticed when the night temps stayed above 50*they started to take off.I'M sure you'll well outdoor is the easiest way to grow weed.
 
I always hear you guys talk about soil ph and all, but im using ffof and happy frog, with just plain water... So i dont need to worry about ph eh?
If i make up nutes down the road that is what i need to ph correct?
I dont even worry about ph'ing nutes in soil
you dont need to even think about that
there are buffers that regulate in the soil
and you arent even gonna really need nutes as the roots will hit the native and take off
a good ewc tea once a week or so will kep bioactivity thriving.....plus the earth has its own ecosystem that is pretty spot on for cannabis
in my beds for outdoors......I actually stop watering my plants after the roots establish.....about 3 weeks......then I just make sure they have the support they need and trim as needed
 
I never PH my outdoor grows even when i add the nutes.My water last PH test was 6.5,if you have good water & soil i don't see the need. some do and claim it is necessary to allow all the micro nutes to be absorbed by the plant at different PH levels.My seedling started to lighten in color at 3 weeks so i gave them a light feeding and they are back on track.I noticed when the night temps stayed above 50*they started to take off.I'M sure you'll well outdoor is the easiest way to grow weed.

I dont even worry about ph'ing nutes in soil
you dont need to even think about that
there are buffers that regulate in the soil
and you arent even gonna really need nutes as the roots will hit the native and take off
a good ewc tea once a week or so will kep bioactivity thriving.....plus the earth has its own ecosystem that is pretty spot on for cannabis
in my beds for outdoors......I actually stop watering my plants after the roots establish.....about 3 weeks......then I just make sure they have the support they need and trim as needed
hey appreciate it guys,, for the input... Sounds great...
 
Hey @Wisher619 Brother, now thatr i have the ability to control my room, what is the EXACT temp and rh should i set my autopilot too? I am gonna use my room to hang in. Im gonna trim off all fans, there dead and crumbly anyway, and hang branches...
I read somewhere, where it was recommended to do 7's
70 degrees at 70 rh for 7 days.....
Ever heard that? whats your rec?
 
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