Hps Vs Cmh Vs Led

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heisen

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I dont agree w that either....the last few wks of flower leading up to flush they shud be eating and drinking just as much if not more than they ever have up to that point.
Why do u think bloom boosters w super high pk numbers are intended for use during the final 4 wks of flower. If ur plants r finishing strong and if u grew them right up till then u shud be watering and feeding a lot.

then i wud take a look at ur process and ask urself just like @heisenbubble is "why r my plants not finishing strong? "

The only time i experience a decline in water consumption towards the end of flower is when my plants are not at their potential.

I grow a lotta different strains and no matter which one it is if everything is goin good my plants r goin hard up to the end.
According to current culture and there chart nutrients taper off after week 6 and 7 as you can see.these people make the nutrients that goes into there systems so I have to say they know something I dont.there chart shows the heaviest feeding during weeks 6 and 7 which is right where I'm at,than start to drop EC so this may just be a under current thing.
If this was one or 2 runs gnome than I might agree with you on a bad batch or mistakes made cause it happens and we all make them but this has been my experience for every grow I've done in UC that after week 6 my ppm will start to rise in the buckets indicating I have to lower it gradually cause the plants are not absorbing micronutrients in the system.
These are healthy plants with perfect ph,roots are good,everything else is in check.
The only thing I questioned was calmag being to high and maybe the plants not having a need for it,as I've never changed the ratio of calmag towards the end and it adds alot of ec to the res.
Might be worth adding less calmag after week 5 to see if it makes any difference.

But the chart they made is for a reason.they are still saying ec should drop the last 3 weeks the week before flush.

Recommendations graph and chart 2017 1024x743
 
MidwestToker

MidwestToker

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I dont agree w that either....the last few wks of flower leading up to flush they shud be eating and drinking just as much if not more than they ever have up to that point.
Why do u think bloom boosters w super high pk numbers are intended for use during the final 4 wks of flower. If ur plants r finishing strong and if u grew them right up till then u shud be watering and feeding a lot.

then i wud take a look at ur process and ask urself just like @heisenbubble is "why r my plants not finishing strong? "

The only time i experience a decline in water consumption towards the end of flower is when my plants are not at their potential.

I grow a lotta different strains and no matter which one it is if everything is goin good my plants r goin hard up to the end.
A Lot of variables in peoples grows. Massive amount of P are not required to grow good healthy plants that produce good. And if anything, K is more important for flower finish than P.

And looking at @heisenbubble plant you can tell it was pushed fairly hard so I have no doubt that it's slowed down on nutrient uptake, Whether his H2O uptake has slowed down only he can answer that. Then you have the different requirements from differing Strains.

But hey, what the heck do I know. I've only been growing these plants since 1972 along with being raised on a 200 acre farm that I still own. I'm not trying to say I'm a master grower but I do have experience growing more than just cannabis.
 
H

heisen

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A Lot of variables in peoples grows. Massive amount of P are not required to grow good healthy plants that produce good. And if anything, K is more important for flower finish than P.

And looking at @heisenbubble plant you can tell it was pushed fairly hard so I have no doubt that it's slowed down on nutrient uptake, Whether his H2O uptake has slowed down only he can answer that. Then you have the different requirements from differing Strains.

But hey, what the heck do I know. I've only been growing these plants since 1972 along with being raised on a 200 acre farm that I still own. I'm not trying to say I'm a master grower but I do have experience growing more than just cannabis.
I'm actually gonna run an extra little bit of nitrogen next time and see how it goes.I agree to much p is not good and I can see it in the plants.i think instead of running 1 to 2 ratio I'm gonna stay with 1 to 1 all the way through and just add the extra p and k in the bloom booster.i read a huge article on cutting out to much nitrogen can have negative effects.thats the good thing about growing is always evolving and learning new things.trying to tame UC just when you think your out it pulls you back in.
 
MidwestToker

MidwestToker

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I'm actually gonna run an extra little bit of nitrogen next time and see how it goes.I agree to much p is not good and I can see it in the plants.i think instead of running 1 to 2 ratio I'm gonna stay with 1 to 1 all the way through and just add the extra p and k in the bloom booster.i read a huge article on cutting out to much nitrogen can have negative effects.thats the good thing about growing is always evolving and learning new things.trying to tame UC just when you think your out it pulls you back in.
Years ago I ran the CNS-17 bloom formula @ a 2-2-3 from start to finish with good results.
 
Friendlyguy

Friendlyguy

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A Lot of variables in peoples grows. Massive amount of P are not required to grow good healthy plants that produce good. And if anything, K is more important for flower finish than P.

And looking at @heisenbubble plant you can tell it was pushed fairly hard so I have no doubt that it's slowed down on nutrient uptake, Whether his H2O uptake has slowed down only he can answer that. Then you have the different requirements from differing Strains.

But hey, what the heck do I know. I've only been growing these plants since 1972 along with being raised on a 200 acre farm that I still own. I'm not trying to say I'm a master grower but I do have experience growing more than just cannabis.

P is a total myth....20 to 60 ppm is all thats really needed as a general approach. Transitional period needed in slightly higher doses then. Seed set you need good amounts for sure. I concure on the fact K is needed more so than P...not from exp, other peoples posts and reading studies online....to much P will kill you micro friendlies and wreak havoc on various plant processes. Micro nutes get fucked. Best to use malted barely and/or phosphodermas to solubolize the P for you instead of mucking with your soil.....makes more sense naturally!

Grow on!!! Get enzymes, bacteria, and fungi to the work for you....Fresh Air Helps Too
 
Rootbound

Rootbound

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P is a total myth....20 to 60 ppm is all thats really needed as a general approach. Transitional period needed in slightly higher doses then. Seed set you need good amounts for sure. I concure on the fact K is needed more so than P...not from exp, other peoples posts and reading studies online....to much P will kill you micro friendlies and wreak havoc on various plant processes. Micro nutes get fucked. Best to use malted barely and/or phosphodermas to solubolize the P for you instead of mucking with your soil.....makes more sense naturally!

Grow on!!! Get enzymes, bacteria, and fungi to the work for you....Fresh Air Helps Too
I agree, bloom boosters (high P)are not needed at all. I start cutting back on my feed strength at week six, and slowly taper back each week till the finish. No flush needed by that time.
 
Limonene

Limonene

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I was of then understanding that the plants metabolism slows down towards week 7 and that trying to cram loads of nutrients in at that stage is going to fuck with the ripening stage. I used to feed high all the way to the end before flush and have defintely noticed an improvement in quality when I taper off a couple of weeks pre flush
 
G gnome

G gnome

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I was of then understanding that the plants metabolism slows down towards week 7 and that trying to cram loads of nutrients in at that stage is going to fuck with the ripening stage. I used to feed high all the way to the end before flush and have defintely noticed an improvement in quality when I taper off a couple of weeks pre flush

What do u mean "fuck with tbe ripening "?
 
H

heisen

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I was of then understanding that the plants metabolism slows down towards week 7 and that trying to cram loads of nutrients in at that stage is going to fuck with the ripening stage. I used to feed high all the way to the end before flush and have defintely noticed an improvement in quality when I taper off a couple of weeks pre flush
My tds pen dont lie.my ppm always starts to rise after week 6 and 7 and I just wanted to know why when others suggest that a plant is eating at max capacity through week 8 when I never find this to be the case.there are other very good growers here that can offer other explanations.
Even in the chart I showed from current culture only week 6 and 7 are max which I actually find to be week 5 and 6.the black line on the chart.
It never fails when I get to week 6 they are done getting max nutrients and I always have to fall back or I'll burn them up
 
Limonene

Limonene

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My tds pen dont lie.my ppm always starts to rise after week 6 and 7 and I just wanted to know why when others suggest that a plant is eating at max capacity through week 8 when I never find this to be the case.there are other very good growers here that can offer other explanations.
Even in the chart I showed from current culture only week 6 and 7 are max which I actually find to be week 5 and 6.the black line on the chart.
It never fails when I get to week 6 they are done getting max nutrients and I always have to fall back or I'll burn them up
I found the same when I used to grow in dwc I totally agree with your observations
 
MidwestToker

MidwestToker

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P is a total myth....20 to 60 ppm is all thats really needed as a general approach. Transitional period needed in slightly higher doses then. Seed set you need good amounts for sure. I concure on the fact K is needed more so than P...not from exp, other peoples posts and reading studies online....to much P will kill you micro friendlies and wreak havoc on various plant processes. Micro nutes get fucked. Best to use malted barely and/or phosphodermas to solubolize the P for you instead of mucking with your soil.....makes more sense naturally!

Grow on!!! Get enzymes, bacteria, and fungi to the work for you....Fresh Air Helps Too
Or you can just go buy a bottle of Mammoth P.
Phosphates are not easily available to the plants by their sticky nature. Hence why most bloom formulas have massive amounts of P.
 
Friendlyguy

Friendlyguy

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My tds pen dont lie.my ppm always starts to rise after week 6 and 7 and I just wanted to know why when others suggest that a plant is eating at max capacity through week 8 when I never find this to be the case.there are other very good growers here that can offer other explanations.
Even in the chart I showed from current culture only week 6 and 7 are max which I actually find to be week 5 and 6.the black line on the chart.
It never fails when I get to week 6 they are done getting max nutrients and I always have to fall back or I'll burn them up

I found the same when I used to grow in dwc I totally agree with your observations

So what you guys are saying is the plant flushes itself? Gene transcrpition reversal?

Does this happen with longer flowering varitals? 1 to 2 weeks before they finish.
 
Toaster79

Toaster79

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I'm im soil so there's a big difference in feeding schedule but here it goes. Using biobizz grow, bloom and top max I found out that cutting grow out of the formula at 2 weeks is way too early but tapering it off to 0 until end of week four is almost perfect on a 10 weeker. Feed peaking at week 6-7 then tapering off to 0 until week 9 and water only at week 10 to harvest. This run with longer flowering times plants finished even at week 14 with water only. Did it affect my yield, don't think so as they were doimg nothing but swelling since they were on water only, there was still some food in the soil and plants foliage serves as a food reserve.
 
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