THCFarmer.com
121,146 Members Log In Register
Log In Register

Hps Vs Cmh Vs Led

  • Thread starter Thread starter heisen
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

Hps Vs Cmh Vs Led

heisen 544 Replies 76,906 Views
Page 22 of 28 · Replies 421–440 of 545
#421
It depends on the type of P....i have heard phosphite is best P204 is next P205 needs to be broken down...outdoors i wouldnt think it matters get phosphoderma enzymes fungi keep up with it and you should be fine no need for mammoth P. Hydro, coco, or soiless i would add mam P. But i use soil and amendments along with my mycos and compost teas....i just gotta get my overwatering hand if the gd watering can...lmfao
MidwestToker said:
Or you can just go buy a bottle of Mammoth P.
Phosphates are not easily available to the plants by their sticky nature. Hence why most bloom formulas have massive amounts of P.
Click to expand...
 
#422
I agree. No need to Er on it..lol.....i was just asking if all plants do their own final flush.

Made the comment about gene transcription, cuz that has to happen b4 the plant does anything. It must write/rewrite gene programming. Plants genetically are like humans...we share the same and similar gene transcription and signaling pathways.

Take the P450 signal pathway in humans it works almost thevsame in us as plants...

Hammering high levels nutes the last few weeks is a bullshit ploy the manufacturers use to get us to use their product up faster so we buy more...capitalism at its finest
Limonene said:
Er no I’m just saying the plant needs less food towards the end of its cycle. So I don’t see any point in hammering it with high levels of feeds
Click to expand...
 
#423
This is a little experiment I did on a plant with high anthocyanin levels present. This plant went the last 4 week with nothing but plain tap water in coir dtw. Didn't turn out to bad for a starved plant.
DSCN0696
 
#424
Friendlyguy said:
It depends on the type of P....i have heard phosphite is best P204 is next P205 needs to be broken down...outdoors i wouldnt think it matters get phosphoderma enzymes fungi keep up with it and you should be fine no need for mammoth P. Hydro, coco, or soiless i would add mam P. But i use soil and amendments along with my mycos and compost teas....i just gotta get my overwatering hand if the gd watering can...lmfao
Click to expand...
I'm a coir grower.
 
#428
G gnome said:
I dont agree w that either....the last few wks of flower leading up to flush they shud be eating and drinking just as much if not more than they ever have up to that point.
Why do u think bloom boosters w super high pk numbers are intended for use during the final 4 wks of flower. If ur plants r finishing strong and if u grew them right up till then u shud be watering and feeding a lot.
Click to expand...

a lot has been said since this post but i still feel like a reply is warranted. when growing in RDWC i never used a feed chart. i always went off the old school method i was taught by the guy who taught me. you monitor what is going on in the res and adjust accordingly. in this way you can keep your feed dialled perfectly to the needs of your plants. this is what i am basing my opinion off. not what a nute manufacturer tells me i should be doing.
 
#429
stutter said:
a lot has been said since this post but i still feel like a reply is warranted. when growing in RDWC i never used a feed chart. i always went off the old school method i was taught by the guy who taught me. you monitor what is going on in the res and adjust accordingly. in this way you can keep your feed dialled perfectly to the needs of your plants. this is what i am basing my opinion off. not what a nute manufacturer tells me i should be doing.
Click to expand...
You need to take that one step farther . I let the plants tell me what my nutrient profile and pH should be.
 
#432
MidwestToker said:
Or you can just go buy a bottle of Mammoth P.
Phosphates are not easily available to the plants by their sticky nature. Hence why most bloom formulas have massive amounts of P.
Click to expand...
Tried mammoth p. and did a side by side with identical clones and exact same feed. Absolutely no difference in the end. Glad it was a free sample!
 
#433
Rootbound said:
Tried mammoth p. and did a side by side with identical clones and exact same feed. Absolutely no difference in the end. Glad it was a free sample!
Click to expand...
That's cuz I think mammoth p was designed to help those that are overloading with too much "excess" P,which I think most of us have established isn't really needed in high doses,K is much more important for "fruiting" plants.
 
#438
Rootbound said:
Tried mammoth p. and did a side by side with identical clones and exact same feed. Absolutely no difference in the end. Glad it was a free sample!
Click to expand...
On my first use of the free samples I experienced the same reaction as you. Just happened they had gotten new samples in with a stock of the Mammoth P. Only then did I see results comparable to their claims.
 
#439
So for those of you interest I just found this video and it does a fairly good job of explaining how I get my flowers to set faster than what you are used to seeing. Not really new science as DTW tomato growers have been using it for decades.
 
#440
MidwestToker said:
So for those of you interest I just found this video and it does a fairly good job of explaining how I get my flowers to set faster than what you are used to seeing. Not really new science as DTW tomato growers have been using it for decades.
Click to expand...

What is this science crap? It’s a weed, the laws of physics don’t apply. Regurgitated anecdotal hearsay is all you need :facepalm:
 
Page 22 of 28 · Replies 421–440 of 545
Back
Top Bottom