Gwheels Dream Growroom :d

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gwheels

gwheels

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Sometimes things just come together...

I have my new house and the under the stairs space that I will make into a grow room. My soon to be wife loves that I have my own grow area for my hobby. :D I won the lottery...

I am measuring for space on walk through #1 on Sunday (April 1 its mine).

Right now my idea is to make the tent in the furnace room my veg/dryer and the space under the stairs into a flower room. The space is about 6 x 10 by 5 feet 3 but i will measure to be sure on Sunday. If it were 6 foot high it is 360 cubic feet.

The height in the furnace room is much taller and i may get a tall tent to fit the space (to veg and to run some of these 16 week flower seeds i want).

I will mold tough drywall the room, line it with mylar and put a light tight door on it. I have all of that stuff now.

We have a 4 plant limit and i want to max out those 4 plants.

I have the following lights to fuel things
Timber 2VL 3.5k 200 watts
True Northern samsung board 4k 238 watts
Growers Choice QB135 4k 135 watts
Citizen Cob fixture 4k 240 watts
315 CMH not sure if i can use it
due to the height requirement 315 3k and 4k bulbs

The QB135 will be my veg light in my tent.

I will sell the 4k cob fixture and get a 238 watt board in 3k

Total wattage 676 watts in the flower room unless i can run the 315 too then we hit 1k

I do have a couple of questions

1) I think i will put a dryer vent going outside to exhaust the room. Why not do it right. Do I need to run a scrubber? We are 4 plants legal. I can run a 6 inch vortex with a scrubber (i have them already)

Would a 4 inch dryer vent work with the 6 inch scrubber? (i have a reducer too).


I will run a 15 or 20 amp circuit depending on how the lighting can work. I am checking out the circuit box sunday and the space to see if i can fit 2 circuits 15 amps because i have the wire. :D It would be awesome if this worked out with stuff i have already.

I have a killawatt meter so i can measure where i am for max wattage when i am running with fans
15 amps gives me a max of 11 amps at 75% load (1300 watts is under that)

I will have more questions.....
 
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MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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I would run the carbon filter and do here to avoid complaints and curiosity. No need to advertise.

And reducing the 6” to 4” will work but only as well as a 4” would anyway.

If you can. Devise a 6” exhaust and dont forget to be sure its lightproof. You have a good amount of watts to cool down and maybe easily build up humidity.

Good luck. Sounds like a fun project!
 
gwheels

gwheels

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I have a pair of 6 inch filters that are rated for 200 CFM and my fan is rated for 350 (vortex quiet line). I will run both filters in different places connected by a y pipe to the fan and extracting out a 6 inch exterior vent.
The vortex fan has a backdraft flapper (who would ever need it? lol).
 
MIMedGrower

MIMedGrower

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I have a pair of 6 inch filters that are rated for 200 CFM and my fan is rated for 350 (vortex quiet line). I will run both filters in different places connected by a y pipe to the fan and extracting out a 6 inch exterior vent.
The vortex fan has a backdraft flapper (who would ever need it? lol).


You need a filter rated equal or higher than the fan if you intend to run on full speed.

I dont think the airflow automatically devides the way you are thinking.

Someone please correct me if i am wrong.

My 4” phresh filter is for 200 cfm. My 6” are for 400.
 
gwheels

gwheels

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This is the shape of the room. Each square is 1 square foot

The room is 6 x 10 in the dark green (flower room)

300 cubic feet (my fan is rated for 350 or 450 i have 2). 450 is the amount required to move so i think either should work. Or i can run 2 filters each on their own fan ( i will experiment with heat while the lights are on).

I might make a veg area in the light green or use a tent. I have the 2 small tents i can use for veg and dry.

Height is 5 foot 2 to the drop ceiling. I have about 5 inches clear on top of that. After moving around in there i will get a chair on wheels so i can garden without back aches.

The floor is ceramic tile. It is completely drywalled in and has a drop ceiling throughout. It is the weirdest invisible room ever. Like a little apartment for a person under 5 feet tall.

I almost bought a tent for the room this morning but i can do it for free so i will go with free. And I can utilize the full 6 x 10 space for a flower room. I will not flower it wall to wall but i will have a lot more room to run scrogs. Seed drop April 1 :D

The wall of the house is to the far right in the flower room. I will put a 6 inch vent through the wall and pull in fresh air from the basement.

And I can start everything in my tents while I build my dream room.

This entire space is dedicated to herbal gardening. A bubble bucket and autopots to start. Then I will start that GH waterfarm i got on sale. All i need is a truckload of coco and the new place !



:)

Upload 2019 2 11 5 30 56
 
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gwheels

gwheels

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What would you say the least clearance would be for a 315 CMH?

5 foot 2 to max 5 foot 6. It would leave about 4 foot 10 of clearance light to ground. A pot is 1 foot or so so that is 3 foot 10. I dont think i can make it to work here unless i flip in 2 weeks lol

I ordered this from Hortibloom china
240 watts citizen 1212 cob fixture in 3k I was able to switch it from 4k to 3k before it shipped (tomorrow) and bought a 2nd. It is a 2 x 4 coverage size (4 x 1 cobs of 60 watts each)
 
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SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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What would you say the least clearance would be for a 315 CMH?

5 foot 2 to max 5 foot 6. It would leave about 4 foot 10 of clearance light to ground. A pot is 1 foot or so so that is 3 foot 10. I dont think i can make it to work here unless i flip in 2 weeks lol

I ordered this from Hortibloom china
240 watts citizen 1212 cob fixture in 3k I was able to switch it from 4k to 3k before it shipped (tomorrow) and bought a 2nd. It is a 2 x 4 coverage size (4 x 1 cobs of 60 watts each)

To get the best results find the PAR rating of the lights and fooprints according to your clearance. Compute the DLI from PAR (ppfd). The necessary DLI is different for veg and bloom.
Screenshot 20190113 061427


To complete the calculations you need to find lighting tests for each type of fixture or use your own PAR meter. Here are some examples...

Quantum HLG600 (if I remember correctly)
HTB1DssjXU rK1Rjy0Fc762EvVXal 1


CXB3590 100w x2 (w/90 deg lens)
HTB15uBQSpXXXXaTaFXXq6xXFXXX5


Vero29 gen7 100w x2
HTB1qaTWKkOWBuNjSsppq6xPgpXaE


If you need help finding the resources to learn how to calculate DLI, I can direct you.
 
gwheels

gwheels

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Could you grow with a 315 in a 5 foot max height space ? 2 feet would be needed for light and clearance 1 foot for pot. A sog would probably work.

Or could you mount it sideways and have no larfy popcorn.....if it doesnt sell im going to figure it out.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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Could you grow with a 315 in a 5 foot max height space ? 2 feet would be needed for light and clearance 1 foot for pot. A sog would probably work.

Or could you mount it sideways and have no larfy popcorn.....if it doesnt sell im going to figure it out.

I don't know for sure, but in an indoor environment it would seem to me a better idea to focus the plants energy to the tops than in trying to cultivate the backup flowers. I say that because the most succesful indoor grows I've seen on here are done that way. Believe me, I'm always trying to reinvent the wheel, but those growers are doing this for a reason.
 
JWM2

JWM2

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Imo the best thing is to fill your canopy as dense as it can be. This way you get optimal production from the buds that get the most light. The rest should be stripped to redirect that energy to the bigger buds closer to the top. It’s similar to scrog but without a net. Of course if you can hang a net then that would make it even easier.

I grow perpetual so it’s not quite the same but I’m going for a similar effect with plant stakes. I’ll move branches to areas that get more light to keep everything producing as well as it can. I have bamboo stakes that I can cut down to size and ties that hold the branches in place.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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Imo the best thing is to fill your canopy as dense as it can be. This way you get optimal production from the buds that get the most light. The rest should be stripped to redirect that energy to the bigger buds closer to the top. It’s similar to scrog but without a net. Of course if you can hang a net then that would make it even easier.

I grow perpetual so it’s not quite the same but I’m going for a similar effect with plant stakes. I’ll move branches to areas that get more light to keep everything producing as well as it can. I have bamboo stakes that I can cut down to size and ties that hold the branches in place.

...and there ya go. From a very experienced indoor grower.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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I found it easiest to use prescribed methods as a base line and jumping off point for less conventional ideas.
 
JWM2

JWM2

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...and there ya go. From a very experienced indoor grower.

You’re too kind :-)

Just because I have experience doesn’t mean I’m any good. Haha.

I’m always learning. That’s why I love to hang out here. It’s a great place to observe others as they grow and make their way through their journeys.

I pick up little tips and tricks everyday and get to try out various tactics and report my results to others.

I had someone PM me and say wtf you changed your soil mix again? I just got the last one going. Haha.

I had to explain that my local hydro shops ran out of what I was using so I had to make some minor adjustments. I hate changing mixes as it’s a whole new learning process getting it fine tuned.

But that’s what happens when you rely on others to make your base soils for you. And it’s not really that bad and you learn a lot in the process. Each mix has its own pros and cons and it’s your job to figure out how to resolve the minor issues that pop up.

Keep me on my toes. Ha.

I do tend to revert back to old practices from years ago as I move along. But I love trying new things that make the job, quality or task easier or better.

Not everything works and not everything is worth repeating. So if I can save someone a few bucks along the way then it’s all good.

But the one constant over the years has been canopy. And I don’t see that changing anytime soon. It’s common to want to get light into every crevice of your plant however you’ll spend more time and money doing so than just manipulating your plants around your light.

Lights usually aren’t mobile but your plants are. So the easiest solution is to make your plants fit your canopy :-)
 
gwheels

gwheels

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I might just put that 315 in a tall small tent and run some landrace sativa in it ;). Or sell it. AS it stands i have 680 watts of cobs and 400 watts of samsung and that is twice what i ever ran before. So it will be bonkers. Lots of room to move around too.
Now i have to decide on strains from the hoard...
Upload 2019 2 12 13 14 43
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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I might just put that 315 in a tall small tent and run some landrace sativa in it ;). Or sell it. AS it stands i have 680 watts of cobs and 400 watts of samsung and that is twice what i ever ran before. So it will be bonkers. Lots of room to move around too.
Now i have to decide on strains from the hoard...
View attachment 856304

That's enough light to setup your grow space, almost, any way you want. Good problem to have.

Please send me a link to your grow diary if you start one on this. Your combination of lights could make this a very informative grow, both in placement, and in comparisons between sources.
 
gwheels

gwheels

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The room has a drop ceiling 5 foot 2. I will see how much more i can get by removing some of the suspended ceiling where i can.

For a room with say 8 plants is humditiy an issue? I will run a dehuey in summer and in winter i cant get to 45% so it is not an issue.

For the ceiling in the room should what should i do with it? I was going to get a roll of 600D mylar tent fabric and staple it all over but is there any prep i need to do for mold prevention or whatever?

With a vent and scrubber i would think it will almost always be ambient humidity same as now...
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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263
The room has a drop ceiling 5 foot 2. I will see how much more i can get by removing some of the suspended ceiling where i can.

For a room with say 8 plants is humditiy an issue? I will run a dehuey in summer and in winter i cant get to 45% so it is not an issue.

For the ceiling in the room should what should i do with it? I was going to get a roll of 600D mylar tent fabric and staple it all over but is there any prep i need to do for mold prevention or whatever?

With a vent and scrubber i would think it will almost always be ambient humidity same as now...

If you have raw wood in an enclosed grow space I recommend using something like Kilz mildew resistant latex bath/kitchen sealer. It may be reflective enough on it's own to make mylar unnecessary. Make sure you give it time to fully cure before setting up the grow.
51K4KLSPRdL AC SY400

I also strongly recommend rubber duckies.
 
gwheels

gwheels

1,594
263
It is a finished space. Ceramic floor and drywall walls with a suspended ceiling. That is the problem area. I might just paint the drywall all flat white bathroom paint (with the mold resistant paint). It will be fine and a lot easier to install (and a lot cheaper).

They were using it as a storage space for their junk....what were they thinking :D

When I get it there will be no crapola in there and I will start my small tent to get some seeds popped and give me incentive to do this room ASAP !
 
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