Think im gonna lose em :(

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Backwoods69

Backwoods69

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Seems like no matter what I do theae seedlings just get worse and worse. Keep temps 69-79 and humidity around 50% ish. Been ph'ing 6.0-6.5..
Thought I was overwatering but they just kept getting worse while I was waiting for the soil to dry. So i watered them a little and they are even worse
 
Think im gonna lose em
az2000

az2000

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What soil are you using? How long do you wait between waterings? How dry is the soil when you water?

What kind of ventilation do you have? An extraction fan? The tent left open? A circulation fan inside?

I don't think they look bad. How old are they? To me, they look like they might have wet feet, maybe not enough fresh air. They might look a little stunted, and need more N? (What do you feed, how much?)

Usually starved plants yellow or get blotchy. But, I knew a guy who had stunted plants for 3-4 weeks and looked something like those photos. When he finally fed more, they took off. You might try that with one plant (don't put them all at risk of burn).
 
Backwoods69

Backwoods69

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Im using pre fertilized soil that was a local grow shops homeade stuff. I have a air infinity extraction fan hooked up to a 6" carbon filter. One 12" osc. Lasko on floor. And on 8" monkey fan pointing up tpward 2 electric sky es300s on about 80% intensity. It seems like i could wait like a week before the soil wouldbe fully dry and i stuck a meter in there and it said dry so im not sure. Ive fed small ammount of gh micro, gh diamond nectar hummic acid, rapid start and super thrive. I think the soil the guy made just had poor drainage. So they wont fully dry. You can see i tried to add more perlite but i can only get it in there so much. I wanna transplant into more aerated soil but i feel it would kill them from shock :/
 
az2000

az2000

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I saw your other thread where you provided some info about what you're doing. It sounds like you're using a composted soil that shouldn't need additional nutrients. I've never grown that way. I grow with a light/airy soil (virturally no nutrients built into it), and feed every watering. In this case, I like the soil to dry every 2-3 days (very dry; the container feels alarmingly light to lift. But, when a plant is a seedling, I don't let it get terribly dry. That might stress it. I try to balance the top of the soil getting dry versus watering too frequently. Once the plant fills the container, then I expect 2-3 days until the container feels almost paper light. Then I drench it with 10-20% runoff.).

I think composted/heavier soils are intended to stay wet longer. So, maybe you should'nt add perlite to yours. Maybe you should go back to the people who grow shop and talk to them about how the soil is expected to perform(?). It must work or they wouldn't sell it.

You said you fed GH Micro. The Flora series is made for hydroponic growing. I wouldn't use that in soil. (You could use it in peat & perlite, which would be soiless growing. I've done that.). I've never used hydro nutrient in soil. I think it would be harmful to the microbiology which a composted soil depends upon. If grow shop sold you soil that's considered "complete" (composted), I think all you need to feed is teas. I've never done this, so I'm the wrong person to comment. I'd speak to the store about it.

Personally, I like feeding each watering and being in control of what the plant is getting. I like lighter soil. So, if you go that way next time, you might rethink everything. You might want to use Pro-Mix HP with 25% perlite added, and use a hydro nutrient like GH Flora series. (I can give you a feeding schedule that worked for me). Or, make your own light soil and use a nutrient that is made for soil.

I'd be inclined to say the plants are hungry. Add some fish emulsion (to one plant). They don't look bad. Just small'ish for 3 weeks. If the soil is suppsed to be complete, I'd just let it do what it's supposed to do. I'd read up on growing in composted/organic soil. (Follow whatever the store says to do.). And then change to something else if you want to be more in control of things (shorter wet/dry cylcles, feeding with each watering).
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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Im using pre fertilized soil that was a local grow shops homeade stuff. I have a air infinity extraction fan hooked up to a 6" carbon filter. One 12" osc. Lasko on floor. And on 8" monkey fan pointing up tpward 2 electric sky es300s on about 80% intensity. It seems like i could wait like a week before the soil wouldbe fully dry and i stuck a meter in there and it said dry so im not sure. Ive fed small ammount of gh micro, gh diamond nectar hummic acid, rapid start and super thrive. I think the soil the guy made just had poor drainage. So they wont fully dry. You can see i tried to add more perlite but i can only get it in there so much. I wanna transplant into more aerated soil but i feel it would kill them from shock :/
call his ass and ask him what the base is,sure looks like coco to me,if it is there isnt anything for them to feed on at all,the holes in bottom of pots look alright for drainage,but if you have any doubt,drill more,if you stick a root well you just pruned it,it grow back,but coco isnt a good thing at all to let dry,it has to have feed daily sometimes 2 or 3 feeds,depends on your method of growing and plants wants,when i grew in it was twice a day to exchange feed and air and they did great,drainage is the key to any base of soil or soiless,have you done a ph test of the soil?id almost bet the ph is alkaline or close ,i went with 5.8 ph of feeds going in and feed twice a day,waking and going to sleep,they did great but a ton of work for a fat lazy man hahah,call his ass and ask what the base structure is made of and if any how much soil,you could also get a ph reading from when you just water to runoff,no feed,take a reading if good then give them a drink with feed to replace what you put in
 
Backwoods69

Backwoods69

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Yea actually i went back to thw store and they are out of bussiness. Weird. Anyways the guy said it was peat based soil he added worm castings and guano and stuff too. My intentions was to get them big enough to transplant and get it into lighter medium. I did also check the soil ph with a meter and yes is read like 7.5 but idk how accurate that thing is... i also checked the ph of the run off and it like like 4.8
 
az2000

az2000

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Weird. Anyways the guy said it was peat based soil he added worm castings and guano and stuff too.

It sounds like he intended for it to be fed with guano teas, etc. I've never done that. I wouldn't feed GH Hydro flora series. That's for hydroponics and soilless (peat and perlite, without the other stuff). I've grown that way and can guide you through a grow if you really wanted to do it. But, for this grow, I'd either research organic/composted soil grows. Or, I'd get some fertilizer used for soil growing (houseplants) that is a 1-1-1 ratio (example NPK label: 8-8-8). Cannabis grows fine with that ratio throughout the grow. You don't need veg nutes and flower nutes. (It might help. But, you don't need it.). Gen Hydro has their "General Organics" line. That would make sense for the soil you're using (if you like GH).

If it were me, I'd run down to Ace Hardware and spend $6 on MiracleGro "Tomato." It has an NPK ratio of 1-1-1.8. People hate MG. But, I've grown with this and it works fine. 1/2 to 5/8 tsp per gallon of water. (If I were you, I would get in the habit of measuring the runoff ppms using a TDS meter. If you overfeed, you'll see it in the runoff during transition or early flower. The PPMs will go through the roof. For me, 2500ppm is where lockout occurs. I try to keep it around 1800. Never above 2200. This saved me a lot of headaches dialing in the nutrient strength. I rarely measure it now.).

MG makes a "Bloom Booster" product too. You could bump the PK with that in mid- to late-flower. (Cut the "Tomato" amount in half, and replace it with a slightly less amount of the "Bloom Booster." MG's "All Purpose" is high in N. You can cut the "Tomato" in half and replace with a similar amount of "All Purpose" to increase N in veg. But... it will grow *fine* with just the Tomato ratio. Honestly, if I needed to bump N in veg, I'd add some fish emulsion. That would be healthier for the soil microbes than MG's "All purpose." (Something else you can do to help the microbes recover from your use of hydro nutes: add a pinch of ordinary kitchen sugar to the water. Not much. Less than 1/16th tsp/gal. That will feed the microbes.).
 
Backwoods69

Backwoods69

38
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It sounds like he intended for it to be fed with guano teas, etc. I've never done that. I wouldn't feed GH Hydro flora series. That's for hydroponics and soilless (peat and perlite, without the other stuff). I've grown that way and can guide you through a grow if you really wanted to do it. But, for this grow, I'd either research organic/composted soil grows. Or, I'd get some fertilizer used for soil growing (houseplants) that is a 1-1-1 ratio (example NPK label: 8-8-8). Cannabis grows fine with that ratio throughout the grow. You don't need veg nutes and flower nutes. (It might help. But, you don't need it.). Gen Hydro has their "General Organics" line. That would make sense for the soil you're using (if you like GH).

If it were me, I'd run down to Ace Hardware and spend $6 on MiracleGro "Tomato." It has an NPK ratio of 1-1-1.8. People hate MG. But, I've grown with this and it works fine. 1/2 to 5/8 tsp per gallon of water. (If I were you, I would get in the habit of measuring the runoff ppms using a TDS meter. If you overfeed, you'll see it in the runoff during transition or early flower. The PPMs will go through the roof. For me, 2500ppm is where lockout occurs. I try to keep it around 1800. Never above 2200. This saved me a lot of headaches dialing in the nutrient strength. I rarely measure it now.).

MG makes a "Bloom Booster" product too. You could bump the PK with that in mid- to late-flower. (Cut the "Tomato" amount in half, and replace it with a slightly less amount of the "Bloom Booster." MG's "All Purpose" is high in N. You can cut the "Tomato" in half and replace with a similar amount of "All Purpose" to increase N in veg. But... it will grow *fine* with just the Tomato ratio. Honestly, if I needed to bump N in veg, I'd add some fish emulsion. That would be healthier for the soil microbes than MG's "All purpose." (Something else you can do to help the microbes recover from your use of hydro nutes: add a pinch of ordinary kitchen sugar to the water. Not much. Less than 1/16th tsp/gal. That will feed the microbes.).
Hmm actually i do have the biothrive line up. And bud booster. I just have been using the micro right now for the nitrogen. Also i have meausred the ppms and they were about 450 at the runoff :/
 
az2000

az2000

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Also i have meausred the ppms and they were about 450 at the runoff :/

That's something I would keep an eye on. When you get to transition and early flower, salt buildup is common. I was able to see it happening by monitoring the runoff PPMs. I don't use that info for anything else. Like, right now in early veg, I wouldn't make any decisions about the PPM runoff. Mine was relatively low in veg too. But, in transition/flower, if you see it rising -- and it exceeds 2000ppm... I would cut the nutrient strenght (and mix more volume for more runoff). For me, 2500ppm is where everything falls apart. 1800ppm seems like a good place to be for me.

When I got a handle on that, everything became much easier. I found I didn't have to ph my nutrient solution (because the soil would pull the nutrient solution to its ph, not the other way arund). The "up/down" additives are actually nutrients which add ppms to the solution. So, it was like a vicious cycle. I was feeding too strong, it built up in the soil, which increased the soil ph (I have an expensive Control Wizard soil ph probe and could watch the soil ph track the runoff ppms). When the soil ph was high, I'd add more "up" to the solution (adding more salts to the soil). When I found the right amount to feed (and volume of runoff to help keep things clean), I don't have to worry about salt buildup in the soil. And, I don't have to ph my nutrients. Much easier to grow now.

Anyway, it's something to keep an eye on. It could be very informative if you have that kind of problem (lockout in early flower).
 
visajoe1

visajoe1

807
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Your plants are thirsty. Your medium looks like it is coco heavy. With the perlite added, it wont hold water well. Which is fine, but you need to keep the medium wet. Water it in the morning everyday with ..2-.4ec. As it grows you'll notice the pot get lighter faster. Eventually, you will need to water 2-4 times per day.

You dont need the es300's yet, too much light. That mars is enough for now until they get 6" tall or so. Keep it 18" above the seedlings
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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Yea actually i went back to thw store and they are out of bussiness. Weird. Anyways the guy said it was peat based soil he added worm castings and guano and stuff too. My intentions was to get them big enough to transplant and get it into lighter medium. I did also check the soil ph with a meter and yes is read like 7.5 but idk how accurate that thing is... i also checked the ph of the run off and it like like 4.8
best way to check your ph is a slurry test,put about a inch of your soil in a jar fill it with water and shake for a few,then sit it down and let settle a little stick your ph pen in the water and see what you really have
 
az2000

az2000

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I just have been using the micro right now for the nitrogen.

That could be a problem. GH Flora "micro" is 5-0-1. That' s not balanced. If I were really going to use flora series in soil, I would follow the 3-2-1 mix rate (at 1/4 to 1/2 strength). If I wanted to add N, I'd use an organic source (like fish emulsion, or blood meal, or bat guano.). The ratio of nutrients is important. Phosphorous is important for root growth. (This is confusing because the soil presumably has nutrients composted into it. But, that depends upon a microbiology. Synthetic nutrients like GH damage thse microbes. So, whatever phosphorous is in the soil could be less available as you apply the synthetic high-N "micro" stuff without phosphorous.).

@visajoe1 said it needs watering. Your first thread said this soil is poor draining. So, I assumed the plant was suffering from being too wet. But, being dry can create a limp leaves appearance. Too much N can cause a claw appearance (and very dark green leaves). I don't think I see that kind of clawing.

Also, what's your water quality like? If you're using tap, measure your TDS. Some areas have very high PPM tap water. I grew in an area where it was like 600ppm (desert area) and that interfered with the plant's uptake of nutrients.
 
Backwoods69

Backwoods69

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8
Your plants are thirsty. Your medium looks like it is coco heavy. With the perlite added, it wont hold water well. Which is fine, but you need to keep the medium wet. Water it in the morning everyday with ..2-.4ec. As it grows you'll notice the pot get lighter faster. Eventually, you will need to water 2-4 times per day.

You dont need the es300's yet, too much light. That mars is enough for now until they get 6" tall or so. Keep it 18" above the seedlings
But i still can feel moisture in the pot :/
 
Kampbe1l

Kampbe1l

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what's the medium? it does look too wet.

you could transplant into a freshly made medium - that's your choice potted soil mix or another hydroponics medium.

if you got a few plants, then maybe transplant a few into this new medium/soil.

i am looking at commercial liquid fertiliser - for tomatoes (and such) at the local hardware stores, fish fertiliser maybe.

you can use hydroponic fertilisers on plants potted in soil - though not from personal experience.
for instance general hydroponics organics go box....used for hydroponics and soil & Grow More Hawaiian Bud Plant Fertilizer....organic soils, coco coir, aeroponic, hydroponic, etc. in the link below. i was thinking of using the general commercial fertiliser, until i get sorted as to what are available in these liquid fertiliser typically used for hydroponics.


 
Last edited:
Beachwalker

Beachwalker

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Thought I was overwatering but they just kept getting worse while I was waiting for the soil to dry. So i watered them a little and they are even worse

.. read what you said above

I don't know what's up with your soil because you don't know exactly what it is but you're treating over-watering with water, and I do know that that's not likely to work ?

It's displaying classic over-watering symptoms, there may or may not be other things going on but I would start by addressing that issue ?

Screenshot 20190708 065019 Google
 
Backwoods69

Backwoods69

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8
.. read what you said above

I don't know what's up with your soil because you don't know exactly what it is but you're treating over-watering with water, and I do know that that's not likely to work ?

It's displaying classic over-watering symptoms, there may or may not be other things going on but I would start by addressing that issue ?

View attachment 879886
Thank you. Gonna let it dry almost fully to see what happens
 
JWM2

JWM2

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At that age the plants should be in solo cups imo. Solo cups hold less soil and will allow the soil to dry out properly between waterings. Once they bigger you can repot them into bigger containers.
 
Beachwalker

Beachwalker

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Im using pre fertilized soil that was a local grow shops homeade stuff. I have a air infinity extraction fan hooked up to a 6" carbon filter. One 12" osc. Lasko on floor. And on 8" monkey fan pointing up tpward 2 electric sky es300s on about 80% intensity. It seems like i could wait like a week before the soil wouldbe fully dry and i stuck a meter in there and it said dry so im not sure. Ive fed small ammount of gh micro, gh diamond nectar hummic acid, rapid start and super thrive. I think the soil the guy made just had poor drainage. So they wont fully dry. You can see i tried to add more perlite but i can only get it in there so much. I wanna transplant into more aerated soil but i feel it would kill them from shock :/
If you're sure you're in soil you should pH to 6.5; if your using GH you should use all 3 as directed on the label, but at 1/4 strength, not just one or the other and try to mix and match, however I wouldn't feed a plant that small in soil anyting yet

Edit: the soil looks like it should drain all right I suspect you're watering too frequently ? Square away your pH stop the newts and learn to properly water by filling a pot the same size & keeping it dry next to the plant and comparing weight by picking them both up is the best and quickest way I've found
 
OldManRiver

OldManRiver

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To the question of GH nutrients in soil: they will work fine. Nutes made for hydro just add some micronutrients and some pH buffering. There is nothing there that won't work in soil. As with any fertilizer, sparingly is best.
 
Backwoods69

Backwoods69

38
8
At that age the plants should be in solo cups imo. Solo cups hold less soil and will allow the soil to dry out properly between waterings. Once they bigger you can repot them into bigger containers.
These pots are a little smaller than solo cups. I thought they would be fine but, first grow. Live an learn ill have 2 get some solos
If you're sure you're in soil you should pH to 6.5; if your using GH you should use all 3 as directed on the label, but at 1/4 strength, not just one or the other and try to mix and match, however I wouldn't feed a plant that small in soil anyting yet

Edit: the soil looks like it should drain all right I suspect you're watering too frequently ? Square away your pH stop the newts and learn to properly water by filling a pot the same size & keeping it dry next to the plant and comparing weight by picking them both up is the best and quickest way I've found
Thing is it will go like 5-6 days before it gets dry
 

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