dude some folks can just put water in there gear and roll,others cant im one of them,my water changes daily,so all my feed is ph'd and ppm in line with were there at in growth,that sheet of paper i throw up all the time hand wrote,that is what i go by period,reason is i cant remember shit,that sheet is my feed schedule,not any company lable or recomendations,mine alone,see when i change up a nute line first thing i do is take a mess of glasses and waste some nutrients,each glass and bottle is measured to see what each do as far as ph and ppm,so it doesnt matter which brand you use as long as you know what each does,read the plant,looking a little yellow go with a little bit more sulfur or nitrogen ,so with documentation you already know whats what,just drop lower on the other 2 bottles if you using like the trio of fox or what not,if your using botanicare,it one bottle,you have a chart for stage feed the plant,it that easy and hell of a lot less confusing,harder to burn plants too,simply because you have a high and low reading with each stage,start low and go to the high side if you dig what i mean.
when shit goes south is when you start adding boasters extra this and that for that frost,if the genetics dont have it ,your not gonna force it on the plant and your left with trying to get it out come closer to harvest,with soil the minerals is the soil,fertilizer should have a perfect balance,this why you always hear jimster saying with his pro mix he uses like 10-10-10 fertilizer,it the balance,with balance also come balance of your micro nutrients,in my opinion there more important tan the macro nutrients,with out them in check your cec and balance of npk isnt as strong ,or say like a well oiled machine,any way this is my methid and just my opinion,we all have our own,but with the spread sheet on the hannah chart you can grow medicne ,problems come with adding amends to the plan
