Help! Again!

[Vss]

Hey guys, vss again.

This time my question arises from a different tent.

This tent operates a variety of gavita hps, gavita led, and dimlux 1000.

These plants were strong healthy teens. A couple days later I check and see almost my entire canopy that’s been under the mix of gavita and gavita led are all getting yellow/light green.


I tested the run off on one of them. I water at 6.0 ph. Run off came at 5.5/5.6 and ppm measures 2800-3200.

The leaves have lost all the dark rich green color and feel paper thin with no texture or moisture.

I flushed all of these plants with 5.9 ph and calmag yesterday.

After asking a few growers they said it looked like ph/nutrient lock out...

But I am also starting to think this might be light stress. The gsvita leds are not yet hooked up to a controller so they are running at 100% light production. Plants are still under veg until I fix this issue and then flip to flower.

I ran an experiment and also understood that when I keep the rock in my reservoir to keep bubbling and mix the water it increases my ph so I am assuming by the time I am done watering my ph probably jumps up to 6.5-7.. depending on how long I keep the bubbler in the air and how long it takes me to water (by hand)..

In regards to nutrient lock out I can easily tell it’s not taking in any nutrients however the soil gets dry after I water so it looks like they are taking it in.

I have not checked for root rot

Temp levels in canopy are 75-83 degrees humidity is around 55-70%

Releasing co2 at 800-1000 range

To water I use:

Pro silicate
Roots exculerator or great white
Occasionally veg boost
Cal mag
And some times revive if I notice some issues.
Ph is at 6.0
Ppm levels under 1000.

Strains identified are king Louie and monster animal cookies .

Please HELP!!

 

[Vss]

Ps I turned off the gsvita leds and are running only dimlux and gavita hps double ended at 600 watts. I don’t have any blue bulbs for veg.. also would u guys recommend? I know blue is beneficially for veg however each bulb is rather pricey so I didn’t pull the trigger.

 

[Anthem]

Ps I turned off the gsvita leds and are running only dimlux and gavita hps double ended at 600 watts. I don’t have any blue bulbs for veg.. also would u guys recommend? I know blue is beneficially for veg however each bulb is rather pricey so I didn’t pull the trigger.

When I opened this thread and saw the plants I was looking forward to the comments other growers would have about the plants. I am running the Gavita 1650 LED. I am told they are the same at the 1700, but I have not verified the specifications. Regardless, I have seen the exact same thing. In my experience it is the lights, specifically the led's. I run both the gravitas and grows choice RIO-680's or something. They both can do this to a plant.
What I have found so far is this, small plants cannot handle the lights at over about 65 percent output. As they grow and you start to flower they can handle more watts. once they are about 2 weeks into flower I can usually turn the lights up to 100 percent. Secondly, I have been increasing the nuts. I am using the floramax line of nuts and they do not have a separate a&b for veg and bloom so I have added some N once I place the plants in the flower room, but this is also a catch 22 because they really want to stretch with the added N. Secondly, I am having to keep increasing the PPM's. I am up to about 1800 PPMs at my peak in soil. I have ran the same strain under HPS and had them get cranky with the nuts at about 1200 PPM's. I believe the plants can handle more PPM's as the quality of the light increases.

 

[Anthem]

You also have some white specs on the leaf's. Might want to get a loop out and see what that is.

 

[Vss]

Hey Anthem,

Appreciate the response I also think it’s the strength I’m running the leds at as well.

That white dust is just some drywall particle that fell when the lights were getting switched around.

 

[Anthem]

Hey Anthem,

Appreciate the response I also think it’s the strength I’m running the leds at as well.

That white dust is just some drywall particle that fell when the lights were getting switched around.

Yes that is what I meant by running them at 65 percent. My controller allows me to increase the watts to the lights by a percentage. You definitely need some N but lets see what the Pros have to say.

 

[Vss]

My feeds during veg are pretty high in nitrogen if I use vegboost revive and roots rxculerator OR great white.. i May be selling my leds if you are interested to snag them for a good price send me a PM. Will be after this run

 

[Seraphine]

My knowledge on different brands of lights is limited but I do know that the more sun/light a plant gets, the more water it takes in at the roots and the more nutrients they use. You could try raising the lights before you adjust anything else. That might fix your problem.

 

[Seraphine]

Don you have a lux reader? I bet if you measured the gativa lights, it would come back too high.

 

[Oh gosh]

Your on the right track with the lights being the issue.

 

[Bmg1982]

I think your bringing your issues into that tent from your other room that has even bigger problems, all those plants and no scope?

 

[HeLLfiReZ]

If your runoff is 3200 ppm your burning/ nute locking them. Flush more bring nutrients down.

When you have nute lockouts, its going to make them weak to heat/light stress.

 

[Bmg1982]

Where are the initial signs of nute burn? I see no indication of fried tips on those fan leaves... I get that runoff is high, but I've seen pics of his other grow and it's been stunted for weeks.

The OP has a pest problem in his other grow space, my guess is he isn't sterilizing himself in working amongst both grows and is cross contaminating his grow spaces.

 

[Bmg1982]

If your not watering to runoff ppm's tend to add up in a short amount of time, especially when your plants are unhealthy, and locking out. Plenty of reasons could cause a lockout, including pests.

 

[Bmg1982]

Since you absolutely refuse to use a scope, here's my thoughts....

That pyrethrin you sprayed in your other grow is only meant as a knockdown, and if you don't take the time to thoroughly and evenly spray your medium and the undersides of your fan leaves, it won't be as effective.

Your typical spider mite, and most herbivores that are common to cannabis have the ability to process their own diet, they take a bite, and move to the next site.

Your broad/cyclamen/russet mite (micro mites) use completely different mechanisms to feed.

They cannot process their meal without the use pathogens. They attach themselves to their feeding sites injecting those sites. These pathogens suppress JA/SA/ABA pathways, these pathways are your plants "defense" mechanisms.

That Avid you used promotes ABA functions, your micro mite's primary feeding mechanisms defeat those functions which is why your problem won't go away in your other room.

With all those pathways suppressed, your plant will continue to struggle from a "hormonal" standpoint, and refuse to feed.

I've provided you with plenty of advice in your other thread, I shall now leave you to your ways.

 

[Deadstill]

What's your growing medium again? Coco? Soil? What's your water like out of the tap? Do you use RO or tap water?

Burnt tips and claws are only 1 sign of nutrient toxicity usually nitrogen but different nutrient toxicities will show different symptoms. This is just a swing in the dark but sort of looks like a calcium toxicity problem from the information you've given so far. Depending on your medium and water you may not need much if any calmag.. I really doubt lights are causing this problem, though.

 

[Bmg1982]

What's your growing medium again? Coco? Soil? What's your water like out of the tap? Do you use RO or tap water?

Burnt tips and claws are only 1 sign of nutrient toxicity usually nitrogen but different nutrient toxicities will show different symptoms. This is just a swing in the dark but sort of looks like a calcium toxicity problem from the information you've given so far. Depending on your medium and water you may not need much if any calmag.. I really doubt lights are causing this problem, though.

More CSI: Miami in regards to nutes etc. The only thing that is solid or "concrete" in regards to both of OP's threads is "pests". I don't even want to comment on dietary needs until he gets his bug problem under control.

 

[Deadstill]

More CSI: Miami in regards to nutes etc. The only thing that is solid or "concrete" in regards to both of OP's threads is "pests". I don't even want to comment on dietary needs into he gets his bug problem under control.

Bugs are a bitch. I see more spider mites being posted on here than I have ever seen in my life :D

 

[Bmg1982]

Bugs are a bitch. I see more spider mites being posted on here than I have ever seen in my life :D

Broad mites and the like are the holy mother of evil in regards to cannabis. The shit the guys are trying to sell you at your local spot won't work, and most have never taken the time to study broads to make a good recommendation on treatment.

I've been at it for awhile, once you have the basics down I've found that 80% of my problems come from pests. Another 10% due to the fact that "Oh shit, that Kosher Tangie got me faded and forget to PH my mix, and last bit due to actual deficiencies.

 

[Anthem]

Don you have a lux reader? I bet if you measured the gativa lights, it would come back too high.

I sho

Since you absolutely refuse to use a scope, here's my thoughts....

That pyrethrin you sprayed in your other grow is only meant as a knockdown, and if you don't take the time to thoroughly and evenly spray your medium and the undersides of your fan leaves, it won't be as effective.

Your typical spider mite, and most herbivores that are common to cannabis have the ability to process their own diet, they take a bite, and move to the next site.

Your broad/cyclamen/russet mite (micro mites) use completely different mechanisms to feed.

They cannot process their meal without the use pathogens. They attach themselves to their feeding sites injecting those sites. These pathogens suppress JA/SA/ABA pathways, these pathways are your plants "defense" mechanisms.

That Avid you used promotes ABA functions, your micro mite's primary feeding mechanisms defeat those functions which is why your problem won't go away in your other room.

With all those pathways suppressed, your plant will continue to struggle from a "hormonal" standpoint, and refuse to feed.

I've provided you with plenty of advice in your other thread, I shall now leave you to your ways.

I have had same looking problem without bugs, so while they maybe present something else is also going on.