What could this be? Blue ice auto. Around 39 days old

[Mattylucas]

Blue ice auto. Around 39 days old from sprout. Haven't fed nutes for about a week. I only gave it some big bud. About 1/4 of the recommended use. I haven't been over watering. Waiting for a lot of the soil to dry since it doesnt drain to well. Crappy soil I got. Is it a deficiency or too much of something? The other plant I topped and it's doing great and flowering already. Different soil I got from walmart. Promix herb and vegetable. Same nutes.

 

[Nugg]

Looks like just a little burn..

 

[Jimster]

The plants look pretty good to me. I would recommend some light leaf removal to allow light to hit the new and smaller bud sites if possible. The plants are fairly small and don't require too much nutrients. I'm not familiar with the Big Bud nutrients, but I would give a small dose of a general blooming/flowering fertilizer and see how it reacts. The leaf edge issues could be caused by Ph or nutrient issues and will drive you crazy trying to figure out if it is a deficiency or overage, since they are two sides of the same coin. Any idea of what your PPMs are for the troubled plants?

 

[Mattylucas]

No I dont I've been looking to find a good cheap ppm meter. Any suggestions? I've been phing my water to about 6.5. Its watering day today.

 

[Mattylucas]

I just checked on them this morning. The troubled plant is looking a little worse. Leaves cuping up. I dont think the light is to close as the other one isnt cupping.

 

[Jimster]

Cupping often comes from heat issues, sometimes from nutrient excesses but cupping or canoeing is usually a heat/too close to lights issue. Is it only the leaves closest to the lights that are causing problems?

 

[Mattylucas]

Not quite. Some of the lower leaves are starting to cup as well. My temps are around 75 through out the day. And 40 humidity

 

[Anthem]

The plants look pretty good to me. I would recommend some light leaf removal to allow light to hit the new and smaller bud sites if possible. The plants are fairly small and don't require too much nutrients. I'm not familiar with the Big Bud nutrients, but I would give a small dose of a general blooming/flowering fertilizer and see how it reacts. The leaf edge issues could be caused by Ph or nutrient issues and will drive you crazy trying to figure out if it is a deficiency or overage, since they are two sides of the same coin. Any idea of what your PPMs are for the troubled plants?

Jimster, id Bud is a PK bloom buster by Advanced Nutrients. I have no idea why someone would give a plant that young a PK booster.

 

[Mattylucas]

Jimster, id Bud is a PK bloom buster by Advanced Nutrients. I have no idea why someone would give a plant that young a PK booster.

Because it just started flowering, it's an autoflower. Bottle says to use first weeks of flowering.

 

[Mattylucas]

It's a forty day old plant from sprout

 

[Anthem]

Because it just started flowering, it's an autoflower. Bottle says to use first weeks of flowering.

there are no flowers in the pics of the first plant

 

[Mattylucas]

there are no flowers in the pics of the first plant

There's pistils under the leaves where they usually start.

 

[Anthem]

Because it just started flowering, it's an autoflower. Bottle says to use first weeks of flowering.

Advanced Nutrients shows using weeks 2-4. You basically burnt the plant from too much P&K

 

[Mattylucas]

Advanced Nutrients shows using weeks 2-4. You basically burnt the plant from too much P&K

Okay. Makes sense. Thank you.

 

[Anthem]

And so you are aware the bud/flower starts as the little white fuss on the top of the leaves as in the 2nd photo you posted.

 

[Formallyhap]

I think I would hit them with a low dose of nitrogen too, that's a lighter green than I like to see for beginning flower.

I don't know, might be the lighting, the second pic looks about right.

 

[Ezlyfe]

Pro mix tomatoe and herb is like the rest of pro mix and requires ph'ing to 5.8-6.2 get to know the product u are growing in is spaghnum moss not soil even though they call it pro mix soil however it is not soil and needs to be treated the same as pro mix BX and HP there is only spaghnum moss and perlite in that bag they call soil. I had many problems with pro mix till i figured out what they called soil was not soil it is still soilless growing. I adjusted ph accordingly and haven't had any issues with pro mix of any kind since.

 

[Mattylucas]

Pro mix tomatoe and herb is like the rest of pro mix and requires ph'ing to 5.8-6.2 get to know the product u are growing in is spaghnum moss not soil even though they call it pro mix soil however it is not soil and needs to be treated the same as pro mix BX and HP there is only spaghnum moss and perlite in that bag they call soil. I had many problems with pro mix till i figured out what they called soil was not soil it is still soilless growing. I adjusted ph accordingly and haven't had any issues with pro mix of any kind since.

The one in promix is the one that's doing good. The other in is in some co op bram I got here in canada

 

[Ezlyfe]

Keep a eye on the pro mix one it will become a problem once the buffers are gone

 

[Mattylucas]

Keep a eye on the pro mix one it will become a problem once the buffers are gone

So lve been feeding them the same ph. And the promix one is doing good. I'm going to up my ph in the other one to about

Keep a eye on the pro mix one it will become a problem once the buffers are gone

If they weren't autos I'd transplant them into my fox farm ocean forest I just bought.