Best light for 24x48x60 tent

[Nlivinit]

So I have a plant top 1000watt full spectrum led. It really didn't produce like I wanted. Just finished my first grow and def didn't produce like I thought. I've heard a lot about these COB led lights with white lite etc. I was looking at a few lights I'll include the screenshot. One was a 2000 watt cob by phlizon. Is that to much? I just want a good light that will produce good buds. Any help is appreciated. Money isn't really a problem but I would like to stay 500 and below if possible. ✌
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07V337CG1/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A3FH4JZGPGFSAR&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MZ1QHKC/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=AH440WDUIAWYA&psc=1

 

[FourthCity]

The light you used likely did not really have 1000 watts. Lots of unscrupulous light companies like to use misleading product names like "1000w" when the light really only draws a couple hundred watts. Both of the first two lights are over priced for what they offer and the second of them definitely does not put out anywhere near 1000 watts. Same can be said for the third light, the phlizon, not even close to 2000 watts. Your last light is the only one being up front about the wattage but it is still very overpriced for an unknown fixture from a random company. From experience I would recommend looking at Horticulture Light Group for quantum boards or Timber for cobs, I have also heard good things about kits from rapidled. If you want to get good results shoot for roughly 25-35 watts per square foot to veg and 40-50 watts per square foot for flowering. Both the brands I mentioned have lights that can be equipped with easily accessible dimmers which I think is a key feature many of the lesser companies leave out.

 

[Oh gosh]

Look up Dr. Bruce Bugbee and watch his videos about lighting. Design Lights Consortium is an organization that tests and offers results of lights they've tested. Most credible manufacturers will send there lights to be tested and certified by a reputable organization like DLC to confirm the company's claims. Theres others in addition to them. If you visit the site, navigate to the "horticulture" lights. Information is technical so do some home work.

 

[PhatNuggz]

BUYER BEWARE: Both og the links are pure BS. The first clearly does not have a clue about spectrum percentages, and the second has single kelvin COBs. How can they possibly ssay full spectrum?

A reasonably priced light to consider is Spider Farmer. You look at all the different spectrum diodes and you will understand what full spectrum means

hth

 

[oldskol4evr]

i run a 400 hid

light in my 2x4x5fttall tent and do just fine,i usally run 6 plants in there ,but had 3 males this time,i use the hid for the reason of thre cool tube extracting heat from tent,but u have my 400 15 inchs from canopy with the cool tube

 

[oldskol4evr]

i had 2 of the 300 watt blurple lights,full spectrum wasnt any problem getting to 100f in the tent,they gone,full force extract and couldnt keep up with a 6in exhaust fan,thing right at 300 cfm

 

[Nlivinit]

So I was looking at both these, one from timber grow and the other from rapid led as suggested by fourth city. Im confused how the timber grow says full spectrum when it's white light? IDK I'm still doing my research. Timber grow one looks good to me though and has a lot of good reviews. Just stuck on which one to get. Thanks for everyone's advice though. I've learned so much in the last few months and started my second grow. Just wanting to get better lights. This led light I have now just isn't cutting it. Got a few about two weeks in veg now so looking to purchase new lights soon.

Model 3VL

This three (3) COB LED light fixture features Bridgelux Vero29 COBs and a Meanwell driver. Remote driver placement helps with managing heat and custom color temperatures are available. Designed and engineered to cover a 2 x 4 coverage area for full cycle/flowering.

timbergrowlights.com

 

[FourthCity]

Full spectrum is kind of a confusing marketing term with no 100% agreed upon definition. The general idea is that it should cover all the wavelengths that are useful to growing marijuana but that is where a lot of the debate is. Every light has a spectrum, technically the more white the more full the spectrum as pure white light reflects all wavelengths and absorbs none, this would not be practical for growing though. All of the lights you posted are going to be pretty similar in spectrum when comparing the same color temperature, I don't think one will be better than the other in that regard. I would pick either a 3000k or 3500k.

The Timber 3vl is a better watt/dollar value than the Chilled Logic unit but the 5 cree cob cxb3590 is slightly better value than the timber if you upgrade to the more powerful driver. Personally I think the Timber looks like it is built a little better than the other two but I only own the Timber so I may be biased. Timber also appears to be the only option with a warranty (3yrs).

 

[Nlivinit]

Full spectrum is kind of a confusing marketing term with no 100% agreed upon definition. The general idea is that it should cover all the wavelengths that are useful to growing marijuana but that is where a lot of the debate is. Every light has a spectrum, technically the more white the more full the spectrum as pure white light reflects all wavelengths and absorbs none, this would not be practical for growing though. All of the lights you posted are going to be pretty similar in spectrum when comparing the same color temperature, I don't think one will be better than the other in that regard. I would pick either a 3000k or 3500k.

The Timber 3vl is a better watt/dollar value than the Chilled Logic unit but the 5 cree cob cxb3590 is slightly better value than the timber if you upgrade to the more powerful driver. Personally I think the Timber looks like it is built a little better than the other two but I only own the Timber so I may be biased. Timber also appears to be the only option with a warranty (3yrs).

Okay. Last question as I'm literally about to order the timber. Should I go with the 3vl or the 4vl? Only 100 dollar difference. I have a 2x4 tent. Do I need the extra light the 4vl has?

 

[maximusluminous]

Full spectrum is kind of a confusing marketing term with no 100% agreed upon definition. The general idea is that it should cover all the wavelengths that are useful to growing marijuana but that is where a lot of the debate is. Every light has a spectrum, technically the more white the more full the spectrum as pure white light reflects all wavelengths and absorbs none, this would not be practical for growing though. All of the lights you posted are going to be pretty similar in spectrum when comparing the same color temperature, I don't think one will be better than the other in that regard. I would pick either a 3000k or 3500k.

The Timber 3vl is a better watt/dollar value than the Chilled Logic unit but the 5 cree cob cxb3590 is slightly better value than the timber if you upgrade to the more powerful driver. Personally I think the Timber looks like it is built a little better than the other two but I only own the Timber so I may be biased. Timber also appears to be the only option with a warranty (3yrs).

anyone saying there is a debate on what full spectrum is.. is clueless.. because science has always known. full spectrum is white light there is no debate... white light is only achieved by combining all colors together, its the exact opposite of paint or printing where if you combine all colors you get black. There is no debating this science, no way

 

[maximusluminous]

Okay. Last question as I'm literally about to order the timber. Should I go with the 3vl or the 4vl? Only 100 dollar difference. I have a 2x4 tent. Do I need the extra light the 4vl has?

LED strips is the only way to go to be 100% honest, I own 3 HLG set ups & 1 chilled/Growmau5 4 puck light. My next light will be an 8 bar LED strip light. Strips with 3000 or 3500k white led's with supplemented cree red diodes in each strip. There is no better nor cheaper way to go, its a win win all the way around I assure you! There is nothing that out covers strip builds with bars!

 

[Dan789]

Here’s my thoughts regarding the very capable Timber fixture pictured, the 3 cob 3VL. They’re driving those individual cobs at over 100 watts each, those massive heat dispersing fins are there for something, it’s to dissipate the heat. Question, how hot do you think your tent is going to get with that going on inside? When your dividing that wattage over more fixtures, you should be getting to a sweet spot as far as the quotient between light and heat created, more cobs, less total heat. Ask what the expected heat rise will be in that modest sized tent of yours? I know that I can keep my tent maximum under 85º (12 cob, 600 true watts) with only minimal exhaust, That should be a concern, I read somewhere that at 100 watts per cob, half of that power was being given off as heat, something certainly to consider...

 

[maximusluminous]

Okay. Last question as I'm literally about to order the timber. Should I go with the 3vl or the 4vl? Only 100 dollar difference. I have a 2x4 tent. Do I need the extra light the 4vl has?

You can do a strip build with 8 2' strips, 4 bars, 1 320 watt driver & all needed parts for basically $400. $216 for the strips with Samsung LM316c Top Bin diodes (100 per strip I believe, if not its 96 per strip) & the newer cree 660nm red diodes (4 per strip) , $85-$90 for the driver. like $10 per bar so $40 for 4 bars, 2' of t channel $15, 4 t bolts, some solid core wire, 2 wago connectors, 1 waterproof AC wire connector $5 & 1 power cord $5-$7

That light will not run warm or hot, it will cover a 2x4 tent better (more evenly) than anything else that you can buy, it uses the best of the very top BIN best diodes, diodes should last 10 years at that power in that set up at 40 watts per 2' strip (max is like 60-70 watts so they are being run pretty easy at 40 watts thus the lack of heat they would produce because as the wattage goes up the temps go way up because diodes nor cobs run as efficiently at higher wattages, lots of power is lost as heat & the hotter a diode or cob gets the less efficient it becomes. Running diodes & or cobs at lower power is the only way to do it! It costs more to have more diodes running at lower power per diode but its the very best way to do it!

 

[Nlivinit]

Here’s my thoughts regarding the very capable Timber fixture pictured, the 3 cob 3VL. They’re driving those individual cobs at over 100 watts each, those massive heat dispersing fins are there for something, it’s to dissipate the heat. Question, how hot do you think your tent is going to get with that going on inside? When your dividing that wattage over more fixtures, you should be getting to a sweet spot as far as the quotient between light and heat created, more cobs, less total heat. Ask what the expected heat rise will be in that modest sized tent of yours? I know that I can keep my tent maximum under 85º (12 cob, 600 true watts) with only minimal exhaust, That should be a concern, I read somewhere that at 100 watts per cob, half of that power was being given off as heat, something certainly to consider...

Here’s my thoughts regarding the very capable Timber fixture pictured, the 3 cob 3VL. They’re driving those individual cobs at over 100 watts each, those massive heat dispersing fins are there for something, it’s to dissipate the heat. Question, how hot do you think your tent is going to get with that going on inside? When your dividing that wattage over more fixtures, you should be getting to a sweet spot as far as the quotient between light and heat created, more cobs, less total heat. Ask what the expected heat rise will be in that modest sized tent of yours? I know that I can keep my tent maximum under 85º (12 cob, 600 true watts) with only minimal exhaust, That should be a concern, I read somewhere that at 100 watts per cob, half of that power was being given off as heat, something certainly to consider...

Hmm. Well this is the tent I have for now. Right now I have to keep a small heater in my tent just to keep it between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. I'm new to all this so not exactly sure how to answer your question or how I would know how to calculate the heat.

 

[Nlivinit]

You can do a strip build with 8 2' strips, 4 bars, 1 320 watt driver & all needed parts for basically $400. $216 for the strips with Samsung LM316c Top Bin diodes (100 per strip I believe, if not its 96 per strip) & the newer cree 660nm red diodes (4 per strip) , $85-$90 for the driver. like $10 per bar so $40 for 4 bars, 2' of t channel $15, 4 t bolts, some solid core wire, 2 wago connectors, 1 waterproof AC wire connector $5 & 1 power cord $5-$7

That light will not run warm or hot, it will cover a 2x4 tent better (more evenly) than anything else that you can buy, it uses the best of the very top BIN best diodes, diodes should last 10 years at that power in that set up at 40 watts per 2' strip (max is like 60-70 watts so they are being run pretty easy at 40 watts thus the lack of heat they would produce because as the wattage goes up the temps go way up because diodes nor cobs run as efficiently at higher wattages, lots of power is lost as heat & the hotter a diode or cob gets the less efficient it becomes. Running diodes & or cobs at lower power is the only way to do it! It costs more to have more diodes running at lower power per diode but its the very best way to do it!

Is there a website I can go to to build something like you recommend...sorry if that's a boob question....im still learning.

 

[FourthCity]

anyone saying there is a debate on what full spectrum is.. is clueless.. because science has always known. full spectrum is white light there is no debate... white light is only achieved by combining all colors together, its the exact opposite of paint or printing where if you combine all colors you get black. There is no debating this science, no way

So you are saying that all the light manufacturers agree on the definition of full spectrum and all "full spectrum" lights are pure white light? I don't think this is the case, they use it as more of a marketing term. I was pretty clear that true full spectrum reflects all wavelengths (colors are wavelengths) and absorbs none so I don't know what you think I'm debating or clueless about.

Okay. Last question as I'm literally about to order the timber. Should I go with the 3vl or the 4vl? Only 100 dollar difference. I have a 2x4 tent. Do I need the extra light the 4vl has?

The 3vl will have plenty of power and would be great for a 4x2. While I don't agree with completely with @Dan789 about 100w cobs wasting 50% of there energy on heat when at 100%, it is true that the 4 cob setup ran on lower power (it has a dimmer) can perform as well with better light spread and less heat output than the 3 cob at full power. In the 4x2 you would probably never have to run the 4vl at full power which would also dramatically extend the lifespan of the driver and cobs. If you can afford the 4vl get it, but know that the 3vl is also up to your needs. Also, fwiw my Timbers dont get nearly as hot as my hlg lights, I think because of the space between each cob versus a bunch of panels on the same heatsink. The design of the heatsinks on the Timber are to pull the heat up and away from the light and canopy and they do a pretty good job, even at full power they are only warm and I can comfortably put my hand as close as a couple inches away from the leds.

Go ahead and research what @maximusluminous suggested, you can design and build a nice light for yourself but I don't think you will save much if any money going that route over Timber or HLG for a light with comparable performance, you'll have to have some basic to intermediate electrical skills, and you will most likely be giving up any kind of warranty or support.

 

[maximusluminous]

Is there a website I can go to to build something like you recommend...sorry if that's a boob question....im still learning.

this first link is to the old style build where 2 t channels are used (1 on each end) with the arms running in between the 2 t channels, the new build has a single double t channel that runs down the middle rather than on each end but otherwise the build is the same. The 2nd link shows his new design but he doesn't show how to build the whole light tho everything is the same as the first video when it comes to wiring it up, it's easy as pie IMO, He is part owner of PLC & they sell the 2' photoboost LED strips & they are the very best of the best that I know of especially since they started putting the 660nm crees in the strips as those are the very best red diodes that you can get

 

[maximusluminous]

So you are saying that all the light manufacturers agree on the definition of full spectrum and all "full spectrum" lights are pure white light? I don't think this is the case, they use it as more of a marketing term. I was pretty clear that true full spectrum reflects all wavelengths (colors are wavelengths) and absorbs none so I don't know what you think I'm debating or clueless about.

The 3vl will have plenty of power and would be great for a 4x2. While I don't agree with completely with @Dan789 about 100w cobs wasting 50% of there energy on heat when at 100%, it is true that the 4 cob setup ran on lower power (it has a dimmer) can perform as well with better light spread and less heat output than the 3 cob at full power. In the 4x2 you would probably never have to run the 4vl at full power which would also dramatically extend the lifespan of the driver and cobs. If you can afford the 4vl get it, but know that the 3vl is also up to your needs. Also, fwiw my Timbers dont get nearly as hot as my hlg lights, I think because of the space between each cob versus a bunch of panels on the same heatsink. The design of the heatsinks on the Timber are to pull the heat up and away from the light and canopy and they do a pretty good job, even at full power they are only warm and I can comfortably put my hand as close as a couple inches away from the leds.

Go ahead and research what @maximusluminous suggested, you can design and build a nice light for yourself but I don't think you will save much if any money going that route over Timber or HLG for a light with comparable performance, you'll have to have some basic to intermediate electrical skills, and you will most likely be giving up any kind of warranty or support.

I don't say you were debating it, but many light companies are full of crap!

I have HLG & Rapid LED/Chilled set ups.. promise you I will build a 4 bar 320 watt set up next & then another to have a 4x4 640 watt set up in total & It wont be but maybe $10 cheaper per 320 watts than an HLG Rspec 320xl set up would cost if you just buy the heatsink & 3 boards from HLG & source the rest of the parts elsewhere or else pay $480+ for their kit which would run you a good $55-60 more than the strip build would cost ya. I was able to build the hlg 320xl set up for like $410-$415 by only buying the heatsink & 3 boards as a combo package that hlg offers for $289 & buy the driver & misc other parts elsewhere. I didn't pay their $480+ they want for the whole kit. Thing is a strip build kills the coverage by any LED makers that do not make bar lights, there is no other way possible to cover a canopy more evenly that with strips so that alone makes it better than HLG & any cob nonsense let alone its slightly cheaper than an HLG build... it a win win & its not even a real contest!

 

[FourthCity]

I don't say you were debating it, but many light companies are full of crap!

I have HLG & Rapid LED/Chilled set ups.. promise you I will build a 4 bar 320 watt set up next & then another to have a 4x4 640 watt set up in total & It wont be but maybe $10 cheaper per 320 watts than an HLG Rspec 320xl set up would cost if you just buy the heatsink & 3 boards from HLG & source the rest of the parts elsewhere or else pay $480+ for their kit which would run you a good $55-60 more than the strip build would cost ya. I was able to build the hlg 320xl set up for like $410-$415 by only buying the heatsink & 3 boards as a combo package that hlg offers for $289 & buy the driver & misc other parts elsewhere. I didn't pay their $480+ they want for the whole kit. Thing is a strip build kills the coverage by any LED makers that do not make bar lights, there is no other way possible to cover a canopy more evenly that with strips so that alone makes it better than HLG & any cob nonsense let alone its slightly cheaper than an HLG build... it a win win & its not even a real contest!

The light strips can offer superior coverage to some lights with the right layout but the difference would be negligible in a 4x2 tent compared with the lights I recommended.

 

[maximusluminous]

The light strips can offer superior coverage to some lights with the right layout but the difference would be negligible in a 4x2 tent compared with the lights I recommended.

strips are the future tho & the efficiency is off the charts with the photoboost strips

at 40 watts per strip it's like 2.7 umols/j & he has all the test results to prove those #'s, sphere tests & everything. He can't keep those strips in stock, they can't make em fast enough & they are made/assembled here in the US


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