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New to hydroponics, assistance needed

  • Thread starter Thread starter Lynch_Ironside
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New to hydroponics, assistance needed

Lynch_Ironside 359 Replies 40,709 Views
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You could run a hydrogen peroxide or mild black solution if rinsed very well through the system to kill and clean it out but you need a temporary home for the plants to do so.

If its not creating issues then I wouldn't worry to much.
 
Note to self; You may want to change your chiller hose to a black hose. Light penetration will cause unwanted growth in your tubes which will cause problems as its density grows. Better to prevent it rather than to try to remediate. 🍻
Absolutely will contribute to algae growth. Since plants use green light very poorly a translucent green allows you to still see through but not give useful light to algae since the intensity of the light is so low and green it won't aid to algae species that rely on light to grow.... diatoms and brown algae do not need light. This is an easy way to know if you have a light leak. Green algae means you do.
 
You could run a hydrogen peroxide or mild black solution if rinsed very well through the system to kill and clean it out but you need a temporary home for the plants to do so.

If its not creating issues then I wouldn't worry to much.

Agreed! just plan it as a mod as you prep for the next grow. You will find that each grow brings mods to your systems 😁
 
This is why many aquarium hoses are green like this. However if you run them under very high light plants will still be able to use it because while green is inefficient in photosynthesis in higher intensity it will provide enough usable light. So I would go black for areas directly under high lighting.

 
Note to self; You may want to change your chiller hose to a black hose. Light penetration will cause unwanted growth in your tubes which will cause problems as its density grows. Better to prevent it rather than to try to remediate. 🍻
I couldn't agree more. It's always easier to avoid a problem before it starts. This was the hose feeding my manifold that dripped water near the bottom rapid rooter. But the slime clogged it up twice so it has been removed and the water level raised eliminating the need for a pump.
 
I couldn't agree more. It's always easier to avoid a problem before it starts. This was the hose feeding my manifold that dripped water near the bottom rapid rooter. But the slime clogged it up twice so it has been removed and the water level raised eliminating the need for a pump.
Just use a cup of your res water and pour over the top each day... roots should hit the water within a week or so.
 
Will do I'll update as time goes by. Thanks to everyone for the help and advice. 👍
 
I've got one coming, thanks phat nugz!
This is my first bubble-ponics grow but not my first grow.
 

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I'm running at about 15,000 lux right now. I read 17000 was max on seedlings, Is this accurate?
600 watt adjustable ballast currently set at 250 watts.
Let me know what you think, thanks in advance👍
 

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How's the opacity on that reservoir lid there? I browsed through the thread and Aqua and Ansel have diagnosed your hoses to be a potential issue... but I don't see mention of that lid... could be a vector for filminess (reservoir growth) if it's illuminating the inside much.
 
I'm running at about 15,000 lux right now. I read 17000 was max on seedlings, Is this accurate?
600 watt adjustable ballast currently set at 250 watts.
Let me know what you think, thanks in advance👍
5-10,000 lux for the first week What type of light?
 
If I may.... always....always... always. Start at the low end of everything... Light, nutrients, watering etc. And work up. 99% of issues are to much of something and almost everyone think more is better and that couldn't be more wrong.

I know this seems like an overstatement but I'm honestly trying to save you a lot of headaches through the grow.
 
Just use a cup of your res water and pour over the top each day... roots should hit the water within a week or so.
Another easy way to help lead roots down is res level, in the start I like to run the water close too the bottom of the net cups with top feeding From the res it self to really help push the roots to search down past the cup then slowly drain water out to the 1” air gap mark and than start week 1 veg nutes.
 
Another easy way to help lead roots down is res level, in the start I like to run the water close too the bottom of the net cups with top feeding From the res it self to really help push the roots to search down past the cup then slowly drain water out to the 1” air gap mark and than start week 1 veg nutes.
Agree and disagree. Roots are geotropic they will always grow down... they don't search for water they react to environment. They won't grow into dry soil. What does changes is the root structures when grown in soil or submerged in water. So if you take a soil grown plant and remove the roots then submerge them it will take time for it to adjust and until then they will be stressed and likely poor health. If you start clones in a bubble cloner you can put them directly submerged without issue but in a media based start they need to be kept that way to reduce stress so its all aboit keeping a good moisture level. As the roots hit the water you can see the change in them as they develop and the transition starts. Once there s enough root mass in the water you will see that explosive hydro growth and o2 and nutrient limitations are largely removed.
 
I see where there might have been a concern with the hoses. However they were not in direct light and the several inches below the water line in the reservoir. Kind of a moot point now as I have removed the pump manifold and hoses leaving just the air stones. But you do bring up an interesting theory. How much light penetration is too much?
Ok so just checked with the good old lux meter and I'm getting a 200 reading under the lid. I'm thinking you guys are gonna say I need to block out all the light from the res, and honestly hadn't considered the possibility of the light traveling through the lid enabling algae or bacteria to grow.

250 metal halide, it's a 600 watt buld with an adjustable ballast. It is an ipower ballast. Not sure if they make the bulb too. It was inexpensive. Light moved to 10,000 👍@aqua man
 

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