Also that part that I was trying to convey to you, in your case. Because there's a high likelyhood that those plants (yours) will carry much of the auto's traits, you can judge by the leaf sets, and how the leave sets appear, auto traits. If they look auto, or they look sorta photo, (and looking for some distinct features of the specific photo in question) then back cross some of your photoperiod offspring, back into the auto from cousins, sisters, brothers, and find the stable spot, find where the balance lies, between the rudy, and the essence of (photoperiod) your trying to infuse into your hybrid. There is certainly a balance to be had, doing it from either end, and that's what needs to be balanced correctly.
I try to have this in line by the f2 state, that way your f3's will be uniform. It's difficult to accomplish, because you need to infuse good pheno/terpene traits also. Getting your stinky on target. That's why the backcross is mostly a pheno hunting thing, it's critical. IMO, the stinky can disappear from a strain pretty quickly if your not making good selections, especially with a male. I also think keeping males in the lines is important, they contain key genetic traits. So if I fem, I only do it one generation, then re-infuse. Usually if you've only got one starter seed, your potential is always in there, if it's solid genes, it just might need to be propagated out again. Takes more than one generation to tease the best pheno's out again.
If balanced correctly, you really can get pretty impressive results, and the rudy will be far more potent, large, and tends to add much better complexity and character, density to the results.
