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Kuwl - Rollin' Along

It's Hump Day! Everything is peachy swell as always now during the veg part These bag plants are short and squaty. I would like them to get twice as tall tho. Maybe another wk till flip. I had a slight hicup with the Auto-Pot Sys the other day. For some...
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Kuwl - Rollin' Along

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It's Hump Day!
Everything is peachy swell as always now during the veg part
These bag plants are short and squaty.
I would like them to get twice as tall tho.
Maybe another wk till flip.

I had a slight hicup with the Auto-Pot Sys the other day.
For some unkown reason one of the water control valves failed.
I had bout a littre of water in the tent, was a pain to sop up.
I took it apart checked it and put it back in and it's worked fine since.
I should have checked it as the manual states before I installed and turned on the flow.
I turn the flow off at night now. don't want no surprizes in the morning lol.
The 2 plants in the AP are looking real good as are all the others.

I turn on the water pump in the morning when I fill the steamers.
Also turn on the air stones at the same time for bout 5 mins.

Hope to do the flip next week if they will grow another 4-6 in.
Installed another 6" clip fan as I could not find room for the bigger occilating fan.
View attachment 1217912

I am going to use this feed chart unless I change my mind lol

View attachment 1217913
Dr. Bruce Bugbee says red light promotes stretch & blue keeps them short...maybe your light is on the blue side. I just googled led grow lights
1645053645020


Not sure if it would help but Dr.BB says it does.
 
I used auto pots for my first grows. I kept getting roots in the valves even with double copper root blockers. More floods than I care to admit. But yours look different maybe they got better.
They changed the size of the tubing for feeding and I think they upgraded the valves but I am keeping a close eye on the 2 I have going
and if they give me any flooding issues I will pull the plug on em and if not to late change the feed to top feed with the rest of them.
Plus I use a clean and mostly clear nutrient mix that hopefully won't clog up the check valves.
 
Dr. Bruce Bugbee says red light promotes stretch & blue keeps them short...maybe your light is on the blue side. I just googled led grow lights
View attachment 1217928

Not sure if it would help but Dr.BB says it does.
Interesting, but my 2 Blue Dream / Gold Leaf plants are doing well in every way and one of the 6 I started after
is doing great too (the one in the back of the tent prob a Durban Poison) but the rest of them in the 2 gal pots are slow.
Might be the 2 gal pots but I doubt it. That one plant was always ahead of the other 5. I have patience now, so I will wait till
the time is right. No burn or problems in the leaves, colors are good too, so I feel blessed on this run.
I just complain about almost everything lol.
 
Interesting, but my 2 Blue Dream / Gold Leaf plants are doing well in every way and one of the 6 I started after
is doing great too (the one in the back of the tent prob a Durban Poison) but the rest of them in the 2 gal pots are slow.
Might be the 2 gal pots but I doubt it. That one plant was always ahead of the other 5. I have patience now, so I will wait till
the time is right. No burn or problems in the leaves, colors are good too, so I feel blessed on this run.
I just complain about almost everything lol.
Ya I hear you.. some just don't shoot up like others do...I'll take a few pics later but I have these 2 girls I think I started around the 1st of Jan.... Bonsai trees and a GSC I just started 1/2 in above the soil 3rd set of leaves coming out...

How long before you saw roots in your bubbler.....Day 4 still nothing yet for mine....all green though....that's a bonus for me...after 4 days mine usually look pretty sad with some wilted leaves but this new gadget seems to be working......Did you leave your pump running 24/7? I thought I read back a few pages you were going to shut it off in the PM...
 
Ya I hear you.. some just don't shoot up like others do...I'll take a few pics later but I have these 2 girls I think I started around the 1st of Jan.... Bonsai trees and a GSC I just started 1/2 in above the soil 3rd set of leaves coming out...

How long before you saw roots in your bubbler.....Day 4 still nothing yet for mine....all green though....that's a bonus for me...after 4 days mine usually look pretty sad with some wilted leaves but this new gadget seems to be working......Did you leave your pump running 24/7? I thought I read back a few pages you were going to shut it off in the PM...
I did for a day or two but shut it back on 24/7 didn't seem to make any dif.
I took the 2 plants out of the bubbler and put them in soil, one shriviled up after two days the other is not far behind.
Don't know why tho.
I put in two fresh cuttings a 5-7 days ago, still green and looking good but the other 2 I put in after the first 2
are doing badly and not looking good at all.
I am going to take a peek right now as i have not messed with them as the 2 are looking so good lol
The 2 larger ones, and that might be the key, were put in about a week ago not to sure exactly tho.
I would guess bout 6 days ago and they have roots both of them also the other one of two finally has roots
I think the one that does not have roots was in the water to much.
Pic's and more on my page.
 
Bubbler update:
I really need to keep notes on it.
The first 2 I put in snf had a nice set of roots are pretty much
dead after I put them into soil.

The next 2 that did not have roots are looking bad.
One does have roots tho, the other might have been too deep into the water.

I put 2 more, larger cuttings, in the bubbler, maybe 6 days ago and both have a nice set of roots already.
They are green and healthy looking too.

If you notice the towel around the tank it's cause I am lazy lol
Holes in tin foil plus the tubing is clear and too lazy to paint or cut new tubing.
Covering them seemed to work good as the last 2 got roots fast.


I do wonder if anything,nutes, should be added to the water.
Here are the latest pic's
Usually after I look at the pic's I see something I miss.
The best roots are all on the right side so maybe still a light issue.
I guess I will use some more tin foil to re-cover and do the tube also.
 

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Bubbler update:
I really need to keep notes on it.
The first 2 I put in snf had a nice set of roots are pretty much
dead after I put them into soil.

The next 2 that did not have roots are looking bad.
One does have roots tho, the other might have been too deep into the water.

I put 2 more, larger cuttings, in the bubbler, maybe 6 days ago and both have a nice set of roots already.
They are green and healthy looking too.

If you notice the towel around the tank it's cause I am lazy lol
Holes in tin foil plus the tubing is clear and too lazy to paint or cut new tubing.
Covering them seemed to work good as the last 2 got roots fast.


I do wonder if anything,nutes, should be added to the water.
Here are the latest pic's
Usually after I look at the pic's I see something I miss.
The best roots are all on the right side so maybe still a light issue.
I guess I will use some more tin foil to re-cover and do the tube also.
Duct tape the tube on the top side that should stop the light travelling down the tube. I found a tip sheet from EZclone on using their equipment and recommendations....not exactly the same...they use jets to spray on the roots where as we use bubbles but basically the same......I can copy paste if you'd like ah fk it.......long file but here it is.....


Cloning Manual
My name is Billy Blackburn. I am the creator/inventor of the EZ-CLONE cloning system and an owner
of EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc. First of all, I would like to say congratulations on the purchase of your
new EZ-CLONE and thank you very much for your business and choosing us to fulfill your cloning
needs.
The EZ-CLONE was specifically designed to simplify the plant cloning process and eliminate the need
for daily maintenance. That being said, there are still a few technical advice questions that I regularly
receive, so I am going to share with you exactly what I do to get the best possible results from start to
finish. Please understand that this is specifically MY opinion. My formula for success is based on
personal experience using the system that I designed, the gathering of information from others who
have purchased and use our product, and feedback from other hydroponic industry experts. Please be
aware that I understand there are numerous products on the market that may be used in conjunction
with the EZ-CLONE cloning system to get good results. The products that I choose to use are simply
my personal preference.
Sections Covered
• Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
• Unit Placement
• Lighting
• Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
• Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
• Water Temperature and Water Chillers
• Daily Maintenance
• Transplanting
• Humidity Domes???
• Cleaning Between Uses
Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
After removing the unit from the packaging material and before starting assembly, I always do a quick
rinse down of the lid and reservoir to remove any unwanted dust or debris that may have been caused
by shipping. Next, assembly of the unit is very basic and takes just a few minutes. Follow the assembly
instructions supplied in the unit. If for any reason the instructions were lost or missing from the package,
please go to www.ezclone.com and click on assembly instructions.
Unit Placement
The unit can be placed on either the floor or up off the ground on any structure stable enough to hold it
when filled with water. I prefer to set it on a sturdy plastic table or stand.
EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc.
10170 Croydon Way, Suite G
Sacramento, CA 95827
Lighting
The preferred lighting to use is a 2 or 4 foot dual fluorescent fixture. The 40 watt bulbs work best and
this is a sufficient amount of light for the delicate cuttings. A 2 foot fixture works well over our 30 cutting
unit and a 4 foot fixture supplies adequate coverage over our 60 and 120 cutting units. The light should
be securely suspended over the unit and should be placed about 8-12 inches above the top of the
cuttings.
Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
Next, with the manifold properly attached to the water pump and placed in the center of the reservoir,
fill the reservoir with tap water or another source of quality water. Fill the unit until the water is just
touching the very bottom of the misters, making sure not to cover them. This will ensure that there is
the largest volume of water in the reservoir possible without hindering the operation of the manifold.
Remember, the more water that’s in the unit, the cooler the water will remain, and the more stable the
ph level will be.
Note: Avoid using (distilled) water! It causes lack of progress and could prevent roots from
forming at all. However, Reverse Osmosis water is usually fine. If you feel that the tap water in
your area is too high in certain mineral content or has excessive chlorine, it’s ok to use an RO
system, but tap water in most areas is usually sufficient.
Next, I add my solutions. The first one is Dyna Gro’s – ProTekt. This is a silica based solution that
strengthens the cuttings from the inside out. It assists in building stronger cell walls, preventing the
formation of bacteria and invading fungi, and helps with overall health and vigor. I add it at dilution rate
of 1 teaspoon per gallon. In a large 120 cutting unit, this equates to be approximately 20 teaspoons. In
a 60 cutting unit, it equates to 10 teaspoons, and in a 30 cutting unit, it equates to be about 5 teaspoons.
Next, I add Dyna Gro’s – KLN. This is added at the same dilution rate, 1 teaspoon per gallon. KLN is a
liquid rooting hormone and is also full of vitamins and minerals.
After my solutions are added, I’ll adjust the PH. Tap water is usually PH adjusted somewhere close to
neutral or just above 7.0. After adding the Pro Tekt, it usually always causes an increase in PH, so the
PH needs to be lowered with a PH down buffering solution. I’ve also noticed that even without additives
of any kind, the PH of tap water will have a tendency to rise over the course of 24-48 hours. To
compensate for this, I adjust my initial PH down to approximately 5.2 because I know the PH will slowly
rise somewhere close to between 5.8 and 6.3. This is an acceptable range for getting quality results. I
keep the closest eye on my PH during this time period between 24-48 hrs. If the PH needs to be
adjusted again later on, do so, but it usually stables out after the first couple adjustments. If you are not
sure if you’ve got an accurate PH reading, I highly recommend getting a quality digital PH meter. You
should be using one of these for your feeding solutions in all stages of growth anyway.
Note: The additives I choose to use for the cloning process are NOT high in macronutrients. In
other words, I am not adding nutrients that will feed the plants with high NPK levels. (N=Nitrogen,
P=Phosphorus, and K=Potassium) Regular plant nutrients should be saved until the cuttings
have developed an adequate root system. I know that some people choose to clone with light
amounts of these nutrients, but in my experience, it takes the cutting longer to develop roots.
The reason a cutting is growing roots to begin with is because it’s in survival mode. It’s searching
for food. So, by adding nutrients to a cutting before it has developed a root structure or “a mouth”
if you will, it’s completely defeating the purpose. Save your nutrients until the plant needs them!
Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
Next, I start taking cuttings from my Mother or Donor plant. I prefer to take them directly from the Mom
right before I’m ready to insert them into the unit. On the average, I take a 4 or 5 inch cutting and leave
2 to 4 leaves on the top. If the leaves are small, I don’t trim them. If they are medium to large, I will trim
half of each leaf off. The reason for this is because the cutting only requires a small leaf area to absorb
a sufficient amount of light to keep it alive. Also, because the cutting does not have a root structure yet,
the leaves are sustained by the amount of moisture that is held in the stem. If the leaves are smaller,
the cutting does not have to work as hard to supply moisture to the leaves, which allows the cutting to
focus its energy on “producing roots”. It also has the added benefit of reducing the overall amount of
leaf area on the top of the Cloner. This prevents some leaves from getting covered by others and
makes for an overall friendlier environment.
As I take each cutting, I will cut it from the Mom with either a sharp razor blade or a quality pair of
trimming shears. Make sure the cutting utensil is clean. It can be sterilized with isopropyl alcohol, a
lighter, or both. I prefer both. I have heard multiple times that it’s necessary for the cutting to be taken
at a 45 degree angle. This is completely false. It does not matter. Just make sure the cut is clean and
the bottom of the cutting is not mangled. Roots will form along the wall of the stem.
Also, I use EZ-CLONE Rooting Gel. After taking each cutting, I place the cutting inside the jar of gel and
let it sit there until I have taken approximately 8 cuttings. This means I have 8 cuttings soaking up the
gel. I pull them out one at a time, insert each cutting into a New Neoprene Collar and place the collar
into the unit. In a 120 unit, there are 15 rows of 8. This is why I take 8 cuttings at a time. I prefer to fill
up a row, take 8 more cuttings, fill up another row, and continue that pattern until the lid is full.
Although the neoprene collars can be reused, I highly recommend using new collars every time you
clone instead of trying to clean the previously used ones. When the collars are used, they can get slime
in the pores, cracks, and creases from various types of additives and I think it’s a bit difficult to
guarantee they get totally clean. I would rather spend the few bucks for new collars and not have to
worry about potentially getting any bad bacteria due the old collars not being cleaned properly.
It is also important to let you know that I do not turn the water pump on until I have the entire unit full of
cuttings and have ph balanced the water. It usually takes about an hour to take 120 cuttings and insert
them into the lid. During this time, the cuttings are still absorbing the gel and an hour is not too long to
wait before turning on the water pump. The clones usually will not wilt within this hour time period, but
if you do get some minor wilting, after you plug the pump in, the clones will perk right back up.
Water Temperature and Water Chillers
IMPORTANT!! - Ok, now it’s time for water temperature. As with most aeroponic and hydroponic
systems, the EZ-CLONE was designed to be used indoors or in a temperature controlled environment.
When I was creating and first started using the EZ-CLONE, I noticed that if my water temperature was
getting over 80 degrees in the reservoir, the cuttings were prone to developing harmful bacteria. This
was usually in the form of a grayish-brown slime, and if not treated quickly, would kill all of my cuttings.
That being said, it didn’t take me very long to figure out that during warm periods of the year, I had to
keep the unit in an air-conditioned room or find another way of keeping my water at a suitable
temperature. My focus was keeping my water as close to 70 degrees as possible. This is where I was
seeing the best results and as long as I was cleaning the unit properly in between uses, my results were
very good, usually between 95-100%.
In an attempt to further the output of the cloning system during hot times of the year and achieve more
consistent results, I decided to try using a Water Chiller. These allow you to cool the water down
considerably without having to place the Cloner in an air-conditioned room. I thought about how much
energy was consumed by running an air conditioner in comparison to the amount of energy used by the
Water Chiller. Although a good quality Water Chiller is a few hundred bucks, it does use considerably
less electricity and it applies the cold water directly to the unit as opposed to trying to cool the air around
it. The amount of money that you save in air conditioning costs pays for the Water Chiller in no time at
all. It’s well worth the investment!
Anyway, I now use a Water Chiller instead of air conditioning. I set the Chiller temperature at 68
degrees and I get better results than I’ve ever seen. The cuttings root within 5-7 days, look absolutely
beautiful, and are able to be pulled from the unit in 10-14 days with about 100% success.
Daily Maintenance
One of the most valuable benefits of using the EZ-CLONE is that it is designed to plug in and let it do
its thing. My time is very valuable and I wanted something to work “for me” not the other way around.
My experience with conventional methods of cloning (putting the cuttings into various mediums and
under humidity domes) was less than successful. Results were sporadic and I never liked the fact that
the cuttings had to be babysat and sprayed with water regularly to keep them from drying out. I’m
always proud when people tell me that they filled up their EZ-CLONE, went on vacation, and when they
came back, had beautiful healthy roots. THAT is what the product is designed to do!
Transplanting
Another major benefit to the EZ-CLONE is that your cuttings are developing roots aeroponically and are
not surrounded by any particular growing medium before they’re ready to transplant. This allows you to
remove the cuttings from the unit and the freedom to place them into soil, soilless mixes, rockwool,
hydroton (clay rocks), coco fiber, pure organic mixes, or to go straight into larger aeroponic or
hydroponic systems. It’s very versatile.
Humidity Domes???
The EZ-CLONE was originally created without a humidity dome specifically because it is NOT
necessary. Conventional methods of cloning require domes to keep the medium and clones from drying
out too quickly. They also require the grower to keep a constant eye on the cuttings to make sure they
don't wilt and die. The inner workings of an EZ-CLONE provide the perfect environment for rapid root
growth. Because the EZ-CLONE gives the cuttings a constant aeroponic mist of solution from inside the
unit, being concerned with the cuttings drying out is never an issue. Also, when cuttings are rooted
under domes and the domes are removed for transplanting, the cuttings go through a period of shock
and can often die. Another benefit to cloning without a humidity dome is that it allows the cuttings to
transpire and breathe naturally and much more efficiently. This drastically reduces the chance of
creating “too much” humidity and attracting harmful airborne fungi such as powdery mildew. The
companies out there who have attempted to copy our design and include a humidity dome are simply
trying to fool the end consumer into believing that the dome is necessary. Leave the domes off! It’s
better for the plants.
Cleaning Between Uses
To keep your EZ-CLONE and all your hydroponic equipment functioning at its peak performance
requires proper cleaning techniques in between uses. The EZ-CLONE is very simple to clean and can
be done very quickly. After a successful cloning cycle, empty the water from the reservoir. The smaller
30 and 60 cutting units can usually be placed in a standard size bathtub. The 120 unit usually needs to
be placed on the ground somewhere with easy access. You may want to do this outside if you don’t
have a bathtub large enough to clean the 120 unit in.
I prefer to fill the used empty reservoir up with hot water completely to the top. If hot water is not
available, cold water will work just fine. I’ll then add 1 cup of standard bleach to a 30 size unit, 2 cups
to a 60 unit, and 3 cups to a 120 unit. Next, I’ll quickly unscrew the misters out of the manifold and I’ll
place my water pump with the manifold attached directly in the center of the reservoir and plug it in.
NOTE: I unscrew the misters to take extra precaution and to flush out any possible root mass or slime
that may have attached to the manifold threads. At this point the pump and manifold are completely
submerged and the hot bleach water is being pushed through both of them, sterilizing the unit. Next, I’ll
place the misters and all airlines in the bleach water at the bottom of the reservoir also. After letting the
unit run in the hot bleach water for approximately 20 minutes, I’ll pull the pump, manifold, misters, and
air tubing out. If the water is too hot, a small fish net works well for scooping them up.
I’ll then take a scrub brush approximately 2 feet in length (toilet brushes work great) and scrub down
the walls of the reservoir, put the lid upside down in the reservoir, and scrub down the inside and
outside of the lid. Empty the bleach water and THOROUGHLY rinse all parts with clean water and
you’re ready for a new cloning cycle. Remember…if you’re reusing the neoprene collars instead of
using new ones, they can be thrown in the bleach water and rinsed as well. Also be careful not to wear
any nice clothes as the bleach water may stain them.
I hope this helps everyone who owns an EZ-CLONE and THANK YOU again for your business and
support. KEEP GROWIN!!!
 
Duct tape the tube on the top side that should stop the light travelling down the tube. I found a tip sheet from EZclone on using their equipment and recommendations....not exactly the same...they use jets to spray on the roots where as we use bubbles but basically the same......I can copy paste if you'd like ah fk it.......long file but here it is.....


Cloning Manual
My name is Billy Blackburn. I am the creator/inventor of the EZ-CLONE cloning system and an owner
of EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc. First of all, I would like to say congratulations on the purchase of your
new EZ-CLONE and thank you very much for your business and choosing us to fulfill your cloning
needs.
The EZ-CLONE was specifically designed to simplify the plant cloning process and eliminate the need
for daily maintenance. That being said, there are still a few technical advice questions that I regularly
receive, so I am going to share with you exactly what I do to get the best possible results from start to
finish. Please understand that this is specifically MY opinion. My formula for success is based on
personal experience using the system that I designed, the gathering of information from others who
have purchased and use our product, and feedback from other hydroponic industry experts. Please be
aware that I understand there are numerous products on the market that may be used in conjunction
with the EZ-CLONE cloning system to get good results. The products that I choose to use are simply
my personal preference.
Sections Covered
• Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
• Unit Placement
• Lighting
• Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
• Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
• Water Temperature and Water Chillers
• Daily Maintenance
• Transplanting
• Humidity Domes???
• Cleaning Between Uses
Assembly, Cleaning, and Unit Preparation
After removing the unit from the packaging material and before starting assembly, I always do a quick
rinse down of the lid and reservoir to remove any unwanted dust or debris that may have been caused
by shipping. Next, assembly of the unit is very basic and takes just a few minutes. Follow the assembly
instructions supplied in the unit. If for any reason the instructions were lost or missing from the package,
please go to www.ezclone.com and click on assembly instructions.
Unit Placement
The unit can be placed on either the floor or up off the ground on any structure stable enough to hold it
when filled with water. I prefer to set it on a sturdy plastic table or stand.
EZ-CLONE Enterprises Inc.
10170 Croydon Way, Suite G
Sacramento, CA 95827
Lighting
The preferred lighting to use is a 2 or 4 foot dual fluorescent fixture. The 40 watt bulbs work best and
this is a sufficient amount of light for the delicate cuttings. A 2 foot fixture works well over our 30 cutting
unit and a 4 foot fixture supplies adequate coverage over our 60 and 120 cutting units. The light should
be securely suspended over the unit and should be placed about 8-12 inches above the top of the
cuttings.
Filling Reservoir, Additives, and PH
Next, with the manifold properly attached to the water pump and placed in the center of the reservoir,
fill the reservoir with tap water or another source of quality water. Fill the unit until the water is just
touching the very bottom of the misters, making sure not to cover them. This will ensure that there is
the largest volume of water in the reservoir possible without hindering the operation of the manifold.
Remember, the more water that’s in the unit, the cooler the water will remain, and the more stable the
ph level will be.
Note: Avoid using (distilled) water! It causes lack of progress and could prevent roots from
forming at all. However, Reverse Osmosis water is usually fine. If you feel that the tap water in
your area is too high in certain mineral content or has excessive chlorine, it’s ok to use an RO
system, but tap water in most areas is usually sufficient.
Next, I add my solutions. The first one is Dyna Gro’s – ProTekt. This is a silica based solution that
strengthens the cuttings from the inside out. It assists in building stronger cell walls, preventing the
formation of bacteria and invading fungi, and helps with overall health and vigor. I add it at dilution rate
of 1 teaspoon per gallon. In a large 120 cutting unit, this equates to be approximately 20 teaspoons. In
a 60 cutting unit, it equates to 10 teaspoons, and in a 30 cutting unit, it equates to be about 5 teaspoons.
Next, I add Dyna Gro’s – KLN. This is added at the same dilution rate, 1 teaspoon per gallon. KLN is a
liquid rooting hormone and is also full of vitamins and minerals.
After my solutions are added, I’ll adjust the PH. Tap water is usually PH adjusted somewhere close to
neutral or just above 7.0. After adding the Pro Tekt, it usually always causes an increase in PH, so the
PH needs to be lowered with a PH down buffering solution. I’ve also noticed that even without additives
of any kind, the PH of tap water will have a tendency to rise over the course of 24-48 hours. To
compensate for this, I adjust my initial PH down to approximately 5.2 because I know the PH will slowly
rise somewhere close to between 5.8 and 6.3. This is an acceptable range for getting quality results. I
keep the closest eye on my PH during this time period between 24-48 hrs. If the PH needs to be
adjusted again later on, do so, but it usually stables out after the first couple adjustments. If you are not
sure if you’ve got an accurate PH reading, I highly recommend getting a quality digital PH meter. You
should be using one of these for your feeding solutions in all stages of growth anyway.
Note: The additives I choose to use for the cloning process are NOT high in macronutrients. In
other words, I am not adding nutrients that will feed the plants with high NPK levels. (N=Nitrogen,
P=Phosphorus, and K=Potassium) Regular plant nutrients should be saved until the cuttings
have developed an adequate root system. I know that some people choose to clone with light
amounts of these nutrients, but in my experience, it takes the cutting longer to develop roots.
The reason a cutting is growing roots to begin with is because it’s in survival mode. It’s searching
for food. So, by adding nutrients to a cutting before it has developed a root structure or “a mouth”
if you will, it’s completely defeating the purpose. Save your nutrients until the plant needs them!
Taking Cuttings and Unit Insertion
Next, I start taking cuttings from my Mother or Donor plant. I prefer to take them directly from the Mom
right before I’m ready to insert them into the unit. On the average, I take a 4 or 5 inch cutting and leave
2 to 4 leaves on the top. If the leaves are small, I don’t trim them. If they are medium to large, I will trim
half of each leaf off. The reason for this is because the cutting only requires a small leaf area to absorb
a sufficient amount of light to keep it alive. Also, because the cutting does not have a root structure yet,
the leaves are sustained by the amount of moisture that is held in the stem. If the leaves are smaller,
the cutting does not have to work as hard to supply moisture to the leaves, which allows the cutting to
focus its energy on “producing roots”. It also has the added benefit of reducing the overall amount of
leaf area on the top of the Cloner. This prevents some leaves from getting covered by others and
makes for an overall friendlier environment.
As I take each cutting, I will cut it from the Mom with either a sharp razor blade or a quality pair of
trimming shears. Make sure the cutting utensil is clean. It can be sterilized with isopropyl alcohol, a
lighter, or both. I prefer both. I have heard multiple times that it’s necessary for the cutting to be taken
at a 45 degree angle. This is completely false. It does not matter. Just make sure the cut is clean and
the bottom of the cutting is not mangled. Roots will form along the wall of the stem.
Also, I use EZ-CLONE Rooting Gel. After taking each cutting, I place the cutting inside the jar of gel and
let it sit there until I have taken approximately 8 cuttings. This means I have 8 cuttings soaking up the
gel. I pull them out one at a time, insert each cutting into a New Neoprene Collar and place the collar
into the unit. In a 120 unit, there are 15 rows of 8. This is why I take 8 cuttings at a time. I prefer to fill
up a row, take 8 more cuttings, fill up another row, and continue that pattern until the lid is full.
Although the neoprene collars can be reused, I highly recommend using new collars every time you
clone instead of trying to clean the previously used ones. When the collars are used, they can get slime
in the pores, cracks, and creases from various types of additives and I think it’s a bit difficult to
guarantee they get totally clean. I would rather spend the few bucks for new collars and not have to
worry about potentially getting any bad bacteria due the old collars not being cleaned properly.
It is also important to let you know that I do not turn the water pump on until I have the entire unit full of
cuttings and have ph balanced the water. It usually takes about an hour to take 120 cuttings and insert
them into the lid. During this time, the cuttings are still absorbing the gel and an hour is not too long to
wait before turning on the water pump. The clones usually will not wilt within this hour time period, but
if you do get some minor wilting, after you plug the pump in, the clones will perk right back up.
Water Temperature and Water Chillers
IMPORTANT!! - Ok, now it’s time for water temperature. As with most aeroponic and hydroponic
systems, the EZ-CLONE was designed to be used indoors or in a temperature controlled environment.
When I was creating and first started using the EZ-CLONE, I noticed that if my water temperature was
getting over 80 degrees in the reservoir, the cuttings were prone to developing harmful bacteria. This
was usually in the form of a grayish-brown slime, and if not treated quickly, would kill all of my cuttings.
That being said, it didn’t take me very long to figure out that during warm periods of the year, I had to
keep the unit in an air-conditioned room or find another way of keeping my water at a suitable
temperature. My focus was keeping my water as close to 70 degrees as possible. This is where I was
seeing the best results and as long as I was cleaning the unit properly in between uses, my results were
very good, usually between 95-100%.
In an attempt to further the output of the cloning system during hot times of the year and achieve more
consistent results, I decided to try using a Water Chiller. These allow you to cool the water down
considerably without having to place the Cloner in an air-conditioned room. I thought about how much
energy was consumed by running an air conditioner in comparison to the amount of energy used by the
Water Chiller. Although a good quality Water Chiller is a few hundred bucks, it does use considerably
less electricity and it applies the cold water directly to the unit as opposed to trying to cool the air around
it. The amount of money that you save in air conditioning costs pays for the Water Chiller in no time at
all. It’s well worth the investment!
Anyway, I now use a Water Chiller instead of air conditioning. I set the Chiller temperature at 68
degrees and I get better results than I’ve ever seen. The cuttings root within 5-7 days, look absolutely
beautiful, and are able to be pulled from the unit in 10-14 days with about 100% success.
Daily Maintenance
One of the most valuable benefits of using the EZ-CLONE is that it is designed to plug in and let it do
its thing. My time is very valuable and I wanted something to work “for me” not the other way around.
My experience with conventional methods of cloning (putting the cuttings into various mediums and
under humidity domes) was less than successful. Results were sporadic and I never liked the fact that
the cuttings had to be babysat and sprayed with water regularly to keep them from drying out. I’m
always proud when people tell me that they filled up their EZ-CLONE, went on vacation, and when they
came back, had beautiful healthy roots. THAT is what the product is designed to do!
Transplanting
Another major benefit to the EZ-CLONE is that your cuttings are developing roots aeroponically and are
not surrounded by any particular growing medium before they’re ready to transplant. This allows you to
remove the cuttings from the unit and the freedom to place them into soil, soilless mixes, rockwool,
hydroton (clay rocks), coco fiber, pure organic mixes, or to go straight into larger aeroponic or
hydroponic systems. It’s very versatile.
Humidity Domes???
The EZ-CLONE was originally created without a humidity dome specifically because it is NOT
necessary. Conventional methods of cloning require domes to keep the medium and clones from drying
out too quickly. They also require the grower to keep a constant eye on the cuttings to make sure they
don't wilt and die. The inner workings of an EZ-CLONE provide the perfect environment for rapid root
growth. Because the EZ-CLONE gives the cuttings a constant aeroponic mist of solution from inside the
unit, being concerned with the cuttings drying out is never an issue. Also, when cuttings are rooted
under domes and the domes are removed for transplanting, the cuttings go through a period of shock
and can often die. Another benefit to cloning without a humidity dome is that it allows the cuttings to
transpire and breathe naturally and much more efficiently. This drastically reduces the chance of
creating “too much” humidity and attracting harmful airborne fungi such as powdery mildew. The
companies out there who have attempted to copy our design and include a humidity dome are simply
trying to fool the end consumer into believing that the dome is necessary. Leave the domes off! It’s
better for the plants.
Cleaning Between Uses
To keep your EZ-CLONE and all your hydroponic equipment functioning at its peak performance
requires proper cleaning techniques in between uses. The EZ-CLONE is very simple to clean and can
be done very quickly. After a successful cloning cycle, empty the water from the reservoir. The smaller
30 and 60 cutting units can usually be placed in a standard size bathtub. The 120 unit usually needs to
be placed on the ground somewhere with easy access. You may want to do this outside if you don’t
have a bathtub large enough to clean the 120 unit in.
I prefer to fill the used empty reservoir up with hot water completely to the top. If hot water is not
available, cold water will work just fine. I’ll then add 1 cup of standard bleach to a 30 size unit, 2 cups
to a 60 unit, and 3 cups to a 120 unit. Next, I’ll quickly unscrew the misters out of the manifold and I’ll
place my water pump with the manifold attached directly in the center of the reservoir and plug it in.
NOTE: I unscrew the misters to take extra precaution and to flush out any possible root mass or slime
that may have attached to the manifold threads. At this point the pump and manifold are completely
submerged and the hot bleach water is being pushed through both of them, sterilizing the unit. Next, I’ll
place the misters and all airlines in the bleach water at the bottom of the reservoir also. After letting the
unit run in the hot bleach water for approximately 20 minutes, I’ll pull the pump, manifold, misters, and
air tubing out. If the water is too hot, a small fish net works well for scooping them up.
I’ll then take a scrub brush approximately 2 feet in length (toilet brushes work great) and scrub down
the walls of the reservoir, put the lid upside down in the reservoir, and scrub down the inside and
outside of the lid. Empty the bleach water and THOROUGHLY rinse all parts with clean water and
you’re ready for a new cloning cycle. Remember…if you’re reusing the neoprene collars instead of
using new ones, they can be thrown in the bleach water and rinsed as well. Also be careful not to wear
any nice clothes as the bleach water may stain them.
I hope this helps everyone who owns an EZ-CLONE and THANK YOU again for your business and
support. KEEP GROWIN!!!
That is a mouthfull lol but had some good tips in it, thanks.
PH the water and feeding were there and I didn't and the new ones look like they are about to get fed
but first I got to PH and maybe even change the water, tomorrow
 
That is a mouthfull lol but had some good tips in it, thanks.
PH the water and feeding were there and I didn't and the new ones look like they are about to get fed
but first I got to PH and maybe even change the water, tomorrow
LOL I know I felt guilty after posting it..i just went select all copy...paste..post....oooops that's a lot...lol but ya some good tips and a base to retain the info...today i read...tomorrow I forget....it takes a while to sink in....but once I got it i got it solid.....like jello....lol....ya I'm smoking with my left and typing with my right....
 
LOL I know I felt guilty after posting it..i just went select all copy...paste..post....oooops that's a lot...lol but ya some good tips and a base to retain the info...today i read...tomorrow I forget....it takes a while to sink in....but once I got it i got it solid.....like jello....lol....ya I'm smoking with my left and typing with my right....
Now that i have a good product supply I feel the need for a smoke now an them in the Daytime!!
Then float thru the rest of the day but manage to get the things I got to do, done, ha

Edit: I forgot to post this link on my page
I did bk it but putting it here anyway lest I forget where the bk is

 
Last edited:
Now that i have a good product supply I feel the need for a smoke now an them in the Daytime!!
Then float thru the rest of the day but manage to get the things I got to do, done, ha

Edit: I forgot to post this link on my page
I did bk it but putting it here anyway lest I forget where the bk is

good pics better than that artistic rendering of health issues...I'll book mark that.....I don't often worry about deficiencies using the GH 3 part...I rely on the feed charts and try to avoid those nute issues.. I have more environmental & mental issues...lol...I fix one thing and the other raises its head
 
They Growin!
But to dam slow lol
They 7-9" right now and looks like another week before flip.
I will strip on next Sun 27th and flip em on the 2nd of March,
at least that's the plan.

Things going well no hiccups.
Feeding BD / GL from the tank 24/7 now with no floods or leaks.
At about 550 PPM and 6.5 PH I mix the tank with a water pump in the morning
I turn it on when checking on them, the power strip I plug it into also serves as
the switch for the air stones in the bottom feeder tray both on for less than 5 min.

The others get about 650 PPM every 4-6 days.
I turned up the light a bit maybe that will help with the growth some.
The canapy is not level tho cause no room to do that
but I will take another shot at it tomorrow.

One AP plant (the one in the back) is having a bit of a leaf issue, not sure what it is yet.
Same with one or two of the bagged plants but thats a minor thing, no worries.

I turned off the steamers cause of mold spots on the front AP plant.
Temp in the tent is 77° Hummy is in the 40-45% range with them off,
it gets to 50-57% with only one on low. 4" exhaust fan is on full, might have to
change to a 6" EF, especially when they start to flower.
 

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Thanks man, I will try next time I germ some seeds also will copy this down as I tend to forget everything lol
Sorry, I've already forgotten everything so You will have to forget something (or someone) else.
 
Have the opposite problem here even running 1 dehumidifier, 1 air filter and AC rh @ 68%. So bought another Hafele dehumidifier and added today
20220222 113205
 
Fed today they were thirsty
That's a good sign 8-10" high the ones in cloth pots are
I think they are going to be 12-14" by the time i flip oh well
Light is at 50%, I did not check run off this time.
500 PPM with Foliage Pro 5ml, Pro Tekt 2.5ml, Mag Pro 2.5ml and Zyme 2.5ml
The PH was 6.7 so the good thing is they are drinking at a steady rate.

Re-arranging the tent to put the plants higher and more even canapy was tiresome.
It is so tight in there not all are even but I did what I could to make it so.
A lil bending, a lil crate manipulation, now I need to smoke one.

Packed
 

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How I clone...

3 cups - 2 x 6 ounce cups - 1 x 12 ounce cups.

Take 1 x 6oz cup, put a hole in the bottom, fill with black gold seedling mix, water it until water comes out of the hole.

Slice clone from plant, I usually take clones that are 3 nodes long, rip off the bottom leaves so as the node serves as an anchor in the soil. I slice the clone from the plant at a good angle.

Make a hole in the soil in the cup and stick the clone in(I don't use any fancy jells or any nonsense). Water it just enough so that water starts coming out, so that the soil will "set" the clone.

Put the clone cup into the 12 ounce cup, it won't sit perfectly inside the cup, usually... It allows for a lip so that you can place the other 6 oz cup on top to act as a humidity dome. The bottom 12 ounce cup will keep the entire thing from drying out as water has seeped through... a few drips enough to fill the bottom of the resevoir cup.

Set the entire package off to the side of your 24 hour Veggie grow station, at 3-4 feet away. Check on it in an hour, if you don't see that the dome is covered with water/humidity, then you need to reset the dome cup so that it provides a tighter fit. I usually never have a problem... (Unless of course one of my cats gets clumsy)
You are not looking for any type of vegetative growth here. What you ARE looking for is the roots to pop out to the side of the cup in 2 weeks.

Usually for me it takes less than a week, I pull them out of the soil, (yes, just yank them out), then stick them in a DWC 5 gallon bucket with a net pot, the bucket is filled nearly to the top so that the water is "bubbling" and in constant contact with the newly rooted clone.

In 2 weeks you'll have a clone that is taking off at the roots, and in 3, will be ready to start flowering, depending on your preferences of course.
 
Roots getting better 4 of 6 survived two are barely getting by.
Kinda interesting but unless they survive being transfered to dirt
it won't work for me. The 2 I put in dirt only one is still living,
The 2 which were the last ones I put in the bubbler are doing great.
I clipped the leaves and took some lower ones off to get them to concentrate on roots.
There are probably a dozen ways to do this and most are prob easier too lol.
My clippings are too small for one thing.
I know a guy who will just give me full grown clones for free.
The only problem is there is only one strain and I got tired of smoking it.
Unless I find a strain that wows me I won't be doing this after I get this one done.
Here are the latest pic's of the Clones
IMG 3368

Ya seen that but too late I think but fixed it up maybe plant will bounce back lol
IMG 3369
 
How I clone...

3 cups - 2 x 6 ounce cups - 1 x 12 ounce cups.

Take 1 x 6oz cup, put a hole in the bottom, fill with black gold seedling mix, water it until water comes out of the hole.

Slice clone from plant, I usually take clones that are 3 nodes long, rip off the bottom leaves so as the node serves as an anchor in the soil. I slice the clone from the plant at a good angle.

Make a hole in the soil in the cup and stick the clone in(I don't use any fancy jells or any nonsense). Water it just enough so that water starts coming out, so that the soil will "set" the clone.

Put the clone cup into the 12 ounce cup, it won't sit perfectly inside the cup, usually... It allows for a lip so that you can place the other 6 oz cup on top to act as a humidity dome. The bottom 12 ounce cup will keep the entire thing from drying out as water has seeped through... a few drips enough to fill the bottom of the resevoir cup.

Set the entire package off to the side of your 24 hour Veggie grow station, at 3-4 feet away. Check on it in an hour, if you don't see that the dome is covered with water/humidity, then you need to reset the dome cup so that it provides a tighter fit. I usually never have a problem... (Unless of course one of my cats gets clumsy)
You are not looking for any type of vegetative growth here. What you ARE looking for is the roots to pop out to the side of the cup in 2 weeks.

Usually for me it takes less than a week, I pull them out of the soil, (yes, just yank them out), then stick them in a DWC 5 gallon bucket with a net pot, the bucket is filled nearly to the top so that the water is "bubbling" and in constant contact with the newly rooted clone.

In 2 weeks you'll have a clone that is taking off at the roots, and in 3, will be ready to start flowering, depending on your preferences of course.
Thanks for the tips, I like the way you do them, if I continue with this maybe I will try your way.
 
Supposed to get 4-8" of snow tomorrow!
Another snowblower day.
Great day for a strip down and pan cleaning.

So far these Auto Pots are fabulous, I hardly have to lift a finger.
No problems to speak of and the plants are doing sooo good.
Now I wished I just did the 4 AP grows instead.
There could be a problem with the roots growing out of the bottom
and clogging up the valve system but I think I could actually cut the roots off
with scissors without to much harn to the plant, I hope, lol,
or put some cheese cloth or a nylon over the bottom, eh we'll see.

I dimmed the lights a bit and getting ready.
I am thinking about 50% not sure If I will do more than that.
They all at about 12" now with one only 10" the AP's are the right hight of 16-18"
and the one plant in the black plastic 2.5g pot is 14-16" too.
I will prob do it in the early afternoon to let them recover some before lights out
and the 12/12 cycle begins then it starts to get interesting.

Put 1 more cutting in the bubbler
Another one went straight into dirt n watered it.
I took the "dome" off the one lil one in the solo cup and it died the next day.
Dainty things they are. But the other 2 are just fine and doing great
Both got preped but I didn't put no CX on the one put in the bubbler
only did that for the one in dirt.
So the 3 that were already in are doing great,
now I'll see what happens to the 2 I just did.
 
Supposed to get 4-8" of snow tomorrow!
Another snowblower day.
Great day for a strip down and pan cleaning.

So far these Auto Pots are fabulous, I hardly have to lift a finger.
No problems to speak of and the plants are doing sooo good.
Now I wished I just did the 4 AP grows instead.
There could be a problem with the roots growing out of the bottom
and clogging up the valve system but I think I could actually cut the roots off
with scissors without to much harn to the plant, I hope, lol,
or put some cheese cloth or a nylon over the bottom, eh we'll see.

I dimmed the lights a bit and getting ready.
I am thinking about 50% not sure If I will do more than that.
They all at about 12" now with one only 10" the AP's are the right hight of 16-18"
and the one plant in the black plastic 2.5g pot is 14-16" too.
I will prob do it in the early afternoon to let them recover some before lights out
and the 12/12 cycle begins then it starts to get interesting.

Put 1 more cutting in the bubbler
Another one went straight into dirt n watered it.
I took the "dome" off the one lil one in the solo cup and it died the next day.
Dainty things they are. But the other 2 are just fine and doing great
Both got preped but I didn't put no CX on the one put in the bubbler
only did that for the one in dirt.
So the 3 that were already in are doing great,
now I'll see what happens to the 2 I just did.
How many hours a day are you spending growing Maryjane? I'd like to hire you -- very good worker.
 
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