Question about extremely hungry active hydroponic plants

[Cashmeh]

And thats the difference in growers you had to add a heater and I added chillers, some of the biggest best grows I ever seen was 66-68F, but if i'm running at 66 apposed 70 0r 74, it doesn't mean everything else stays the same, why should it, So again if your limiting factors are optimized for you growing conditions there will be very ;little difference at all, so a side x side is bunk. if you don't change your parameters, I also run 2 EC from clone to finish, It doesn't mean everyone else is going to.

I mean what are you suggesting that will change that wont be a benefit? Im stating, that regardless of any and all other conditions, if you up the water temp, it will grow faster, regardless of if its raining or snowing, or if its windy or still. . no matter what, it will grow faster when you increase the temps. A side by side comparison will literally show you that when you change the water temps and nothing else, it grows faster. Sure you can cover the one growing faster in a tarp and say it dont matter, that the environment changed, but you changed it to fit your narrative.
If you had 2 plants, one in c02 and one not with c02, the one with c02 will grow faster. The same goes with warm water temps. Sure we can say whatever we would like, but it doesnt change what will happen during tests and trials.
The tests would only be bunk if you did change your perimeters. When adjusting any large complex operation, you do not make 20 different adjustments at once. You make one, and you see what happens. If you make 10 adjustments every time you will never have a grasp on what is actually going on.

 

[Dialitin420]

I run 14 plants on a 2 rail 8' long nft made from vinal fenceposts. It has a 30 gal res but keep level at 20 gal. I change out nutes once a week in flower and only once every 2 weeks in veg. I have a 55 gal RO reservoir that feeds plain RO water through a float valve in my reservoir. The 55 gallon is vinal and tall. Very cheap in Amazon. As long as you keep the water level higher in the 55 gal than your float valve in your reservoir you will never have to check water levels. This setup keeps my ppps at a pretty steady 1000 with slight fluctuations but not enough to adjust for. Key is to check ppms daily at first to see if they are staying stable. If you top off with nutes every time then your ppms will probably skyrocket and burn your plants. Just replace nutes once a week with a totally fresh reservoir. Again depending on the size of your reservoir. If it's too small than you might have to add nutes in-between reservoir resets

 

[Dr.Green55]

I mean what are you suggesting that will change that wont be a benefit? Im stating, that regardless of any and all other conditions, if you up the water temp, it will grow faster, regardless of if its raining or snowing, or if its windy or still. . no matter what, it will grow faster when you increase the temps. A side by side comparison will literally show you that when you change the water temps and nothing else, it grows faster. Sure you can cover the one growing faster in a tarp and say it dont matter, that the environment changed, but you changed it to fit your narrative.
If you had 2 plants, one in c02 and one not with c02, the one with c02 will grow faster. The same goes with warm water temps. Sure we can say whatever we would like, but it doesnt change what will happen during tests and trials.
The tests would only be bunk if you did change your perimeters. When adjusting any large complex operation, you do not make 20 different adjustments at once. You make one, and you see what happens. If you make 10 adjustments every time you will never have a grasp on what is actually going on.

your missing the whole point? one input from anything doesn't mean faster, just because your running 74 it doesn't mean faster or better by any means, if your parameters are not set it could a bunch a trouble, the same as adding Co2 if you don't have the light or inputs to use it, adding Co2 means shit. if you have one guy that has a 600w light the other guy has a 1000w light does it automatically mean the guy with the bigger light will grow faster. Not by far.

If I have a setup dialed in for 66f and you do a side x side using 74F and changing nothing but water temp you think you'll be faster? I have news for you lol.

there is no narrative thats silly, my point is simple a properly dialed in setup a 66 will be no different the a properly dialed in setup at 74. So running a side x side with one system dialed in and one not shows just so thats, a flawed side x side. the point your missing is it doesn't matter which one is dialed in the 66 or 74 because the opposite one is going to lose every time. in fact though unless maybe running live system 74 just brings added problems

and the large complex operations you mention yeah I know few, and there running 67 66 or even lower, and i can a sure you there smoking the fuck out of guys running 70 and above for many reasons.

its not all about water temp thats one factor

 

[justinsloan]

I run 14 plants on a 2 rail 8' long nft made from vinal fenceposts. It has a 30 gal res but keep level at 20 gal. I change out nutes once a week in flower and only once every 2 weeks in veg. I have a 55 gal RO reservoir that feeds plain RO water through a float valve in my reservoir. The 55 gallon is vinal and tall. Very cheap in Amazon. As long as you keep the water level higher in the 55 gal than your float valve in your reservoir you will never have to check water levels. This setup keeps my ppps at a pretty steady 1000 with slight fluctuations but not enough to adjust for. Key is to check ppms daily at first to see if they are staying stable. If you top off with nutes every time then your ppms will probably skyrocket and burn your plants. Just replace nutes once a week with a totally fresh reservoir. Again depending on the size of your reservoir. If it's too small than you might have to add nutes in-between reservoir resets

So are you saying that you should check the PPMS first and then either top off with nutes or without based upon that or is it risky to measure nutes at a top off level like that?

 

[Dialitin420]

Only top off with nutes if the ppms drop too far below your desired ppm level. Otherwise just top off with fresh ph adjusted water or RO water. Full reservoir change once a week because even if your ppms stay stable you do not know which parts of your nutes are being used faster than other parts.

 

[Cashmeh]

your missing the whole point? one input from anything doesn't mean faster, just because your running 74 it doesn't mean faster or better by any means, if your parameters are not set it could a bunch a trouble, the same as adding Co2 if you don't have the light or inputs to use it, adding Co2 means shit. if you have one guy that has a 600w light the other guy has a 1000w light does it automatically mean the guy with the bigger light will grow faster. Not by far.

If I have a setup dialed in for 66f and you do a side x side using 74F and changing nothing but water temp you think you'll be faster? I have news for you lol.

there is no narrative thats silly, my point is simple a properly dialed in setup a 66 will be no different the a properly dialed in setup at 74. So running a side x side with one system dialed in and one not shows just so thats, a flawed side x side. the point your missing is it doesn't matter which one is dialed in the 66 or 74 because the opposite one is going to lose every time. in fact though unless maybe running live system 74 just brings added problems

and the large complex operations you mention yeah I know few, and there running 67 66 or even lower, and i can a sure you there smoking the fuck out of guys running 70 and above for many reasons.

its not all about water temp thats one factor

Im loosing more brain cells reading this than I do smoking weed. Your saying that if I have an environment setup for a 1000w light, and I downgrade it to a 600w, without changing anything, the plant will grow just as fast. Thats your own logic applied against your own logic. So basically theres no reason to do anything that will benefit the plant and make it grow faster correct? Your saying theres no one thing people can do to make a plant grow faster. . . its absolute insanity and contradicts every single thing we do in our daily lives.
As for people running lower temps, do you even know why they do that? Its not because it grows their plant faster I can assure you. Might want to study microbe growth and why all these guys your talking about CANNOT ever run 74f in their systems. They are not capable of doing it without their roots rotting away. That right there says theres one difference, let alone the obvious growth rates. Good luck killing the microbes at 74f, talk about corrosives on the rootzone. . no difference ya say. Again, go find a grow thats benefits from 2000ppms of c02, then do the same grow with no co2, dial in whatever you think will make it grow faster lol. . watch what happens.
What guys are smoking what guys, be specific please.

 

[Ponky]

Only top off with nutes if the ppms drop too far below your desired ppm level. Otherwise just top off with fresh ph adjusted water or RO water. Full reservoir change once a week because even if your ppms stay stable you do not know which parts of your nutes are being used faster than other parts.

That's why I replace and don't replenish. Easier. Less risk. Don't top off. Replace.

 

[Cashmeh]

Only top off with nutes if the ppms drop too far below your desired ppm level. Otherwise just top off with fresh ph adjusted water or RO water. Full reservoir change once a week because even if your ppms stay stable you do not know which parts of your nutes are being used faster than other parts.

We can test to see which nutrient is being used faster pretty cheaply. Aquarium strips are 15 bucks and tell you nitrite nitrate calcium and alkalinity. There are phosphate test strips for 20 bucks. Mag test kit is 20 bucks. And then potassium kit was 20. I test once a week and it takes like 10 min. Again not for sterile systems. Just ones that use microbes.

 

[justinsloan]

That's why I replace and don't replenish. Easier. Less risk. Don't top off. Replace.

So if you had a hungry plant and lost 3 gallons a day, you would replace? That is probably expensive from the nutes possibly. I do not really know yet, how fast those can go.

 

[Dr.Green55]

Im loosing more brain cells reading this than I do smoking weed. Your saying that if I have an environment setup for a 1000w light, and I downgrade it to a 600w, without changing anything, the plant will grow just as fast. Thats your own logic applied against your own logic. So basically theres no reason to do anything that will benefit the plant and make it grow faster correct? Your saying theres no one thing people can do to make a plant grow faster. . . its absolute insanity and contradicts every single thing we do in our daily lives.
As for people running lower temps, do you even know why they do that? Its not because it grows their plant faster I can assure you. Might want to study microbe growth and why all these guys your talking about CANNOT ever run 74f in their systems. They are not capable of doing it without their roots rotting away. That right there says theres one difference, let alone the obvious growth rates. Good luck killing the microbes at 74f, talk about corrosives on the rootzone. . no difference ya say. Again, go find a grow thats benefits from 2000ppms of c02, then do the same grow with no co2, dial in whatever you think will make it grow faster lol. . watch what happens.
What guys are smoking what guys, be specific please.

Sorry man I thought you was a little experienced and educated, yeah because your not understanding anything. good chat lol

 

[Aqua Man]

Depending on size of plant, environment and health they can drink up to 1-1.5 gal a day each.

 

[justinsloan]

Depending on size of plant, environment and health they can drink up to 1-1.5 gal a day each.

Do you top off with nutes ever or do you just top off and change the water every 3 days or so?

 

[Aqua Man]

Do you top off with nutes ever or do you just top off and change the water every 3 days or so?

I too off at different times through the grow. In RDWC sometimes daily in ealry mid flower. In DWC definitely daily at that age.

The goal is to keep the water level as close to the same as reasonably possible for you.

Change outs i do once i have added back the volume of water that the bucket or system holds. So in DWC it can be a week or 2 at first then as much as every other day. That keeps a nutrient ratio, ph, ppm etc. balanced

I do my too ups like this

DWC, RDWC and RECIRCULATING SYSYEM TOP UP EXPLAINED.

Ok I'm going to explain a more complex way of maintaining our systems for those looking to use best practices (IMO only) There are many ways this can be done but I feel this gives the most stability for PH, PPM, NUTRIENT RATIOS (super important) especially is systems with a low water volume. So...

www.thcfarmer.com

 

[justinsloan]

I too off at different times through the grow. In RDWC sometimes daily in ealry mid flower. In DWC definitely daily at that age.

The goal is to keep the water level as close to the same as reasonably possible for you.

Change outs i do once i have added back the volume of water that the bucket or system holds. So in DWC it can be a week or 2 at first then as much as every other day. That keeps a nutrient ratio, ph, ppm etc. balanced

I do my too ups like this

DWC, RDWC and RECIRCULATING SYSYEM TOP UP EXPLAINED.

Ok I'm going to explain a more complex way of maintaining our systems for those looking to use best practices (IMO only) There are many ways this can be done but I feel this gives the most stability for PH, PPM, NUTRIENT RATIOS (super important) especially is systems with a low water volume. So...

www.thcfarmer.com

So you would never add nutes to a top off?

 

[Aqua Man]

So you would never add nutes to a top off?

I always add nutes to a top off. Click the link and read how i do it. If you have questions after just ask. Its just a more complex way i feel is better practice… but im not saying you cannot do it another way

 

[Ponky]

So if you had a hungry plant and lost 3 gallons a day, you would replace? That is probably expensive from the nutes possibly. I do not really know yet, how fast those can go.

I use an economical food. So it's better to change every 2 or 3 days than to mess around. Works out well. Plants always have what they need.

 

[Dialitin420]

My setup in the flowering stage my plants are in use 10 gal a day some days in small 30 gal reservoirs. So about 5 gal a day per res. They are autofed from a 55 gal res that I have my ro hooked to the hose that fills it. Before I knew better I was keeping the 55 res full of nutrient rich water that was making my ppms skyrocket. If your plants are using water faster than the nutes you will be left with a super strong solution by the end of the week. The auto feed system now is just plain RO water and if my ppms get too low which is rare I'll mix nutes directly into the nft reservoirs to bring the ppms back up. In veg when they are smaller I do a complete res change once every 2 weeks and a couple weeks into flower I switch to once a week. That's what works for me.

 

[Dialitin420]

I use maxigrow, and maxibloom. Pretty cheap due to it's powder form. Cal mag I just bite the bullet and buy the 5 gal to last since it's for grow and bloom. Wish there was a good powder cal mag.

 

[Dialitin420]

Also am experimenting with koolbloom liquid. So far seems like a waste of money and definitely will burn your plants if not carefull. I'm now only using 1/4 strength because with the maxibloom already with high numbers the koolbloom puts it way over the top. Even the maxibloom I use at just over half strength. Try to keep my ppms in flower between 950 to 1000

 

[jadins_journey]

I used to do ebb n flow; with 1000w hps in mid flower the res lost about 3 gallons/day

I still do and with a 1k hps. 4 plants drink 3 gallons per day at mid flower

jj