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**2nd Grow** SpiderFarmer SF4000 , NFTG #4 -Sour Power-Hella Jelly-Strawberry Cheesecake- 3x3 Tent

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**2nd Grow** SpiderFarmer SF4000 , NFTG #4 -Sour Power-Hella Jelly-Strawberry Cheesecake- 3x3 Tent

Dothraki 507 Replies 57,349 Views
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Are you also using NFTG? What is your soil PH after a couple months? Also what’s your water ec?

No I don't use NFTG. I told you I don't bother with pH and I am growing organic so I also don't bother checking EC. I use new soil every grow to avoid lingering pH issues and the old soil gets composted.

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No I don't use NFTG. I told you I don't bother with pH and I am growing organic so I also don't bother checking EC. I use new soil every grow to avoid lingering pH issues and the old soil gets composted.

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Your water report looks a lot more detailed than mine lol. But we are not running identical scenerios…different soil, nutrients and water. I assume we are both on LED indoors. If my soil PH rises over time due to buildup of calcium carbonate that could prevent the plants from taking the nutrients they need, which is why I’m PH ing, better safe than sorry. Once I do a slurry test in a month of veg I’ll know more.
 
Good to know about the DD for mag boost. I’m curious what your soil PH is. And if lowering it would better allow the calcium to chelate the magnesium. I’m sorta expecting some mag issues myself.
With Nectar soil ph tends to drift down during flower. I add DTE garden lime to keep my soil ph in the proper range. Ideal soil ph for this line is 6.5 but 6-7 is fine. Your water will save you having to use as much Olympus up when you start increasing you feeds.

Do you have the Nectar Bible? Its a free file, if you dont let me know. It is fullbof great information
 
With Nectar soil ph tends to drift down during flower. I add DTE garden lime to keep my soil ph in the proper range. Ideal soil ph for this line is 6.5 but 6-7 is fine. Your water will save you having to use as much Olympus up when you start increasing you feeds.

Do you have the Nectar Bible? Its a free file, if you dont let me know. It is fullbof great information
I'll add a tbs of dolomite lime as a top dress if I veg for longer than 2 months. I find my ph keeps dropping from the nutes added and I 'd have to add too much ph up to balance it. It takes a couple of weeks to notice the ph getting back to the 6's after adding the lime.

I'm in Promix type soils.
 
With Nectar soil ph tends to drift down during flower. I add DTE garden lime to keep my soil ph in the proper range. Ideal soil ph for this line is 6.5 but 6-7 is fine. Your water will save you having to use as much Olympus up when you start increasing you feeds.

Do you have the Nectar Bible? Its a free file, if you dont let me know. It is fullbof great information
Funny, the guy at the grow store yesterday showed me the PDF. I was able to find it but it’s from 2018 so I’m not sure if it’s outdated or if any new versions exist. I wonder who put this together??
 
that is the right one, there is a new one coming out soon, dealing with the newer products. GEt a copy a read it over and over, so much good info in there. Its put together by Nectar Assassins, a group of folks that have been working with nectar forever. Scott O reviews it but iy is put together by growers
 
that is the right one, there is a new one coming out soon, dealing with the newer products. GEt a copy a read it over and over, so much good info in there. Its put together by Nectar Assassins, a group of folks that have been working with nectar forever. Scott O reviews it but iy is put together by growers
That’s awesome. Yeah he says the regimens that he gives are pulled from a pool of growers feedback, and giving the averages for what works the most reliably. Now that I think of it though…I guess that’s any nutrient regimen from any brand lol. But still, he’s more involved…better info. I hope this grow goes well, I like the idea of organics (in the sense that it’s probably harder to mess up) and being in soil hopefully I won’t have to water 2 times a day.

Maybe that’s where hydro is the way to go, mainlined to the veins and no filling buckets and cans with water. Then @growsince79 can’t say I overwatered 😂

Just messin brother you always help me out 🤘🤘
 
Personally I had more problems when I ph in buffered soil
I wonder why? I’m just following what the Nectar guy said should work best and prevent problems. I should pick a plant to run without PH-ing and compare.

@Dothraki the answer is obvious. If the soil is buffered and you're adding pH up or down to your water ... you've just double-buffered which will give you headaches all grow long. This is a prime example of where "Less = More." Let the soil do the buffering like its supposed to.

The nectar guy is trying to sell you products.
 
@Dothraki the answer is obvious. If the soil is buffered and you're adding pH up or down to your water ... you've just double-buffered which will give you headaches all grow long. This is a prime example of where "Less = More." Let the soil do the buffering like its supposed to.

The nectar guy is trying to sell you products.

Took 10 pages to get a logical response :p
 
@Dothraki the answer is obvious. If the soil is buffered and you're adding pH up or down to your water ... you've just double-buffered which will give you headaches all grow long. This is a prime example of where "Less = More." Let the soil do the buffering like its supposed to.

The nectar guy is trying to sell you products.
I still add ph up to my soil grows or the run off ph drops into the low 5's - 4's.....I read the run off and record it...if it read's 5.8ph then the next feed I'll add 4ml ph up, that will bring my ph up into the low 6's...next feed 4ml up 6.2...next feed..6.4 I'll keep adding 4ml up at a feed to keep the ph in the 6's then decrease as I decrease food.......am I wrong? As I increase my feed I increase the ph up. My base water is 7.2 after adding nutes the water can be in the 5's, run it though my soil without ever adding up the soil ph drops into the 4's after 6-7 weeks ....Ph up is my friend in Promix...don't go telling me its not needed in soil grows
 
I still add ph up to my soil grows or the run off ph drops into the low 5's - 4's.....I read the run off and record it...if it read's 5.8ph then the next feed I'll add 4ml ph up, that will bring my ph up into the low 6's...next feed 4ml up 6.2...next feed..6.4 I'll keep adding 4ml up at a feed to keep the ph in the 6's then decrease as I decrease food.......am I wrong? As I increase my feed I increase the ph up. My base water is 7.2 after adding nutes the water can be in the 5's, run it though my soil without ever adding up the soil ph drops into the 4's after 6-7 weeks ....Ph up is my friend in Promix...don't go telling me its not needed in soil grows
His water is already somewhat hard. Your water's pH has a near neutral pH to start ... Remember what I said about your well water being of better quality than my municipal sources? You're lucky in that sense.

His water is at the higher end of accepted alkalinity. For example, if he were to pH down his water and set it aside for a couple of days and then come back to it and retest the pH ... His water will have likely risen well above where it read when he initially took the pH reading. This process describes the alkalinity of his water.

Your water comes out of the ground just about where "natural pure water" pH's at. This means the ppm in your water is not effecting its pH. Also, promix isn't soil. It's peat which has a tendency to drift downward no mater how well buffered it is. In my eyes, it's not a direct comparison between what you're doing and what his situation is. I'm also inclined to believe that if your water started with a higher pH and you were to use pH down to adjust your nute water to 6.2 lets say ... that the phosphoric acid "usually" used in pH down would eventually cause your promix to drift downward out of range over time. It's a strong acid and will continue to drop the pH of your water over the course of a few days if you were to try the same experiment I suggest to @Dothraki?

Same experiment yet different results? Water chemistry isn't the same which is what much of this thread has been about.
 
@Dothraki the answer is obvious. If the soil is buffered and you're adding pH up or down to your water ... you've just double-buffered which will give you headaches all grow long. This is a prime example of where "Less = More." Let the soil do the buffering like its supposed to.

The nectar guy is trying to sell you products.
He said I could use Herc or Gaia to lower it without needing to buy Hades Down, or if I got a simple filter system wouldn’t have to worry about the calcium or lime buildup. I don’t think he’s just trying to sell me PH down. Seems it would be more beneficial for him if the grow goes well with the best results. All together I spent like $50 for all the nutes, shipped, and should be enough for multiple grows. Also remember this is a calcium based line…so the chemistry is a bit different. He did say mid 7’s really no need to PH but over 8 is where he does.
 
He said I could use Herc or Gaia to lower it without needing to buy Hades Down, or if I got a simple filter system wouldn’t have to worry about the calcium or lime buildup. I don’t think he’s just trying to sell me PH down. Seems it would be more beneficial for him if the grow goes well with the best results. All together I spent like $50 for all the nutes, shipped, and should be enough for multiple grows. Also remember this is a calcium based line…so the chemistry is a bit different. He did say mid 7’s really no need to PH but over 8 is where he does.
Again, we circle back to my original recommendation ... a simple 1 or 2 stage filter system designed to reduce sediment and ppm. 2 stage would be better but 1 stage is what I've been using outside in my greenhouse ... and I've had excellent results so far.

Edit: It's like this ... lets remove the minerals that are contributing to your problem instead of adding more chemicals to counter-act the issue.
 

Promix has always stated that you do NOT need to pre pH your water when using their growing mediums. I've posted about this before I'll try to find the quote.


Leaving a link for the "training center" which is full of useful articles. And a ton on pH.
 
His water is already somewhat hard. Your water's pH has a near neutral pH to start ... Remember what I said about your well water being of better quality than my municipal sources? You're lucky in that sense.

His water is at the higher end of accepted alkalinity. For example, if he were to pH down his water and set it aside for a couple of days and then come back to it and retest the pH ... His water will have likely risen well above where it read when he initially took the pH reading. This process describes the alkalinity of his water.

Your water comes out of the ground just about where "natural pure water" pH's at. This means the ppm in your water is not effecting its pH. Also, promix isn't soil. It's peat which has a tendency to drift downward no mater how well buffered it is. In my eyes, it's not a direct comparison between what you're doing and what his situation is. I'm also inclined to believe that if your water started with a higher pH and you were to use pH down to adjust your nute water to 6.2 lets say ... that the phosphoric acid "usually" used in pH down would eventually cause your promix to drift downward out of range over time. It's a strong acid and will continue to drop the pH of your water over the course of a few days if you were to try the same experiment I suggest to @Dothraki?

Same experiment yet different results? Water chemistry isn't the same which is what much of this thread has been about.
Okay sorry, I get that now, I saw a comparison and could quite grasp the difficulty Dothraki is having. I add the dolomite to combat the ph up I use......its a cheap fix at about $5 - 50lb bag
 
Again, we circle back to my original recommendation ... a simple 1 or 2 stage filter system designed to reduce sediment and ppm. 2 stage would be better but 1 stage is what I've been using outside in my greenhouse ... and I've had excellent results so far.

Edit: It's like this ... lets remove the minerals that are contributing to your problem instead of adding more chemicals to counter-act the issue.
I just don’t have the funds for it right now…but that’s what I’ll do eventually.
 
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