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First time grower, have some questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter elusiveshame
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First time grower, have some questions

elusiveshame 331 Replies 38,867 Views
Page 9 of 17 · Replies 161–180 of 332
#161
Buzzy12 said:
Spray everything, top/bottom of leaves, stems/branches/stalk, and the top of the soil. Read the label on anything you decide to purchase. I would suggest not using neem oil, typically a no-no once you get into flower. I know it's still early in Flower (I would say you're at Day 2 of Flower), but there are plenty of othe options out there that will work. The plants are looking healthy!
Click to expand...

Ah, what would you recommend if not neem?

I did put a piece of paper under the plants and shook them and nothing fell out, so I'm still not sure wtf is going on.
 
#162
Any product with multiple active ingredients. I like products that have 2-3 different horticultural oils and if it has some citric acid in it, that's a bonus.
These are some products I've used with success. It's a good idea to use a couple different ones too, always rotate pesticides to reduce resistance.

Mammoth CannControl - Mammoth

Now you can have confidence in a product that prevents and eliminated fungus, mites, and insects. Mammoth® Canncontrol is the next generation of contact and vapor-action fungicides.
mammothmicrobes.com mammothmicrobes.com

https://growersally.com/product-category/crop-defender-3/

www.lostcoastplanttherapy.com

Natural Plant Insecticide & Fungicide | Lost Coast Plant Therapy

Lost Coast Plant Therapy is a 3-in-1 minimum risk pesticide, insecticide, fungicide and miticide that controls spider mites, aphids, thrips, powdery mildew, mold and botrytis on contact.
www.lostcoastplanttherapy.com www.lostcoastplanttherapy.com

www.athenaag.com

IPM

DescriptionAthena IPM is a complete pest management formula that kills many soft-bodied insects and mildew on contact. When used as directed Athena IPM penetrates plant crevices and leaf surfaces where unwanted biotic diseases seek to colonize.Complete powdery mildew management: Control, Killer...
www.athenaag.com www.athenaag.com

www.trifectanatural.com

Natural Pesticide, Fungicide and Miticide | Trifecta Natural

Trifecta Crop Control is an all-in-1 natural pesticide, fungicide, and miticide designed for treating & preventing pests, mites and fungal issues.
www.trifectanatural.com www.trifectanatural.com

If you have a bad bug problem I would recommend a pyrethrin insecticide instead of an azadirachtin based insecticide.

www.mgk.com

EverGreen® Pyrethrum Concentrate For Organic Production | MGK®

EverGreen® Pyrethrum Concentrate delivers fast knockdown and kill of more than 140+ pests and is OMRI listed for use in organic production.
www.mgk.com www.mgk.com

bonide.com

Pyrethrin Garden Spray Concentrate - Bonide

ideal for listed vegetables, fruits, flowers, and delicate ornamentals.
bonide.com bonide.com

I've also had success with a mixture of 50/50 water to 3% hydrogen peroxide with a drop or two of dawn dish soap. Some lemon juice (citric acid) in there would be a bonus.
 
#164
Buzzy12 said:
Not sure why the Crop Defender 3 link isn't working. Maybe this will work. Just bought this one recently, works well.

Crop Defender 3 Fungicide for Plants: Safe & Effective

Use Crop Defender 3 fungicide for plants to control pests and prevent mildew. OMRI Listed®, this formula works on spider mites, thrips, and more.
growersally.com growersally.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for the links and tips!

I’ll prob order one or 2 of these this weekend have them on hand just in case.

I have noticed every so often there looks like a water drop on a leaf. I’ve read cannabis plants do “sweat”, so I’m wondering if that’s partially to blame on what’s going on, since this doesn’t seem to be a sizeable infestation that I can tell (no gnats, nothing crawling on the leaves, nothing falls on white printer paper when I jostle the branches above the paper, etc).

Once in a while I do see a random hair on the a leaf (like, maybe one or 2 in total), but I have cats, and it looks like cat fur (this has been going on since day 1, so if it were spider mites, I’d think I’d have a nasty infestation by now).

But yeah, better to be safe than sorry and to have things on hand to help with issues as they arise.
 
#165
This mornings pic:
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Noticed some tips turning yellow so I dialed the light back a notch.

Adjusted some leaves to allow light in to the lower bud sites that got covered up with the growth over night.

Most of the tops have shot through the netting already, so when the lower tops poke through, I’ll adjust the net upwards for better support.
 
#166
Just watered for the first time with the net in place.

I purchased a food grade PVC clear tube (1" diameter) to go over my watering can spout. My 2 gallon cans nozzle just barely fits, but then I figured that it would be too cumbersome to use a 2 gal can for this, so I mixed up the nutrients into the 2 gallon can, then filled my 1/2 gallon can, which the tubing slide over the nozzle very well and created a nice tight seal around the base. From there, it was as simple as lifting and moving the tube around the pot. Rinse and repeat until all plants are well fed (about 2.5 - 3 gallons in total between the 3)

Typical feeding as before, except this time I used the non-nutrient based water first, then the nutrient blend 2nd, rather than the other way around.
 
#167
While going over the plants, I discovered this:
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I hate to sound misandrist, but no boys allowed in this clubhouse.

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So I removed the male (now sitting on my back deck in 60F weather and will go into the greenhouse at night). If I can get some pollen, great. If not, oh well.

Repositioned the 2 remaining plants (both are female). I’m kind of sad by the male plant, but this does give more room for the other 2, so there’s that.
 
#168
This mornings pic:
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Already filling up that extra space quickly!

Adjusted some of the lower tops to poke through the nearest net hole, tucked some upper leaves to allow light to the lower tops, and adjust leaves that got caught up in the netting as they grew upward.

Pistols are starting to show from the bud sites, and everything appears to be going well still.

Tips seem to be recovering quickly from the over exposure to light, too.

The male is outdoors / in the greenhouse and is still doing well. Looks like we won’t have any super cold nights coming up in the next week and a half (lowest is 35F while the rest is showing between 40F and 55F at night), so pollen collection should be doable.
 
#170
This mornings pic:
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Just took a quick peek and snapped a pic. I’ll go through everything a bit more when I wake up 😅 was up super late last night / this morning.
 
#171
This mornings pic:
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They shot up nicely through the net (though there is one that is struggling).

I ordered 2 more nets that are the appropriate size for this tent (unsure why I got a 4x4 net with this kit, but oh well).

I’m not going to remove this net now, but I do want to add a 2nd one to help with support.

The extra net is just to have for the next grow since this net isn’t the right size.

Now a question: can I / should I remove the lower fan leaves now?

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They’re not getting much light, some are getting crimped into the sides of the tent - I feel like they’re a bit in the way and taking away energy from other areas.

I have to water at some point today as well. Usually I trim then water, so I was thinking of getting rid of some of that lower foliage.

I’m still in week 1 of flower if that helps with the above question.
 
#174
Just got done feeding the girls and giving them a haircut.

Overhead pic:
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Under the canopy pics:
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I feel like I might’ve been able to trim more off, but I didn’t want to go overboard. Let me know how they look!

Is there a time when you want to cut off all the fan leaves or no?
 
#175
#176
You would be surprised at how well the plants react to extreme defoliation @TSD I know I was the first time I saw it.

threealight.com

Ultimate Guide to Schwazzing

Using the schwazzing method you can dramatically increase your yield! It takes time to master but we've generated cannabis yields north of 4 pounds per light. Here's our in-depth guide to get your schwazze process dialed.
threealight.com threealight.com

www.advancednutrients.com

How To Remove Fan Leaves Using The Schwazzing Technique

As a grower, you may have heard about schwazzing. But what’s the truth about this extreme form of removing fan leaves? Read this article to find out!
www.advancednutrients.com
 
#177
TSD said:
NO! How are they supposed to absorb light and grow if you cut off all the leaves? They're looking good.
Click to expand...
That’s what I thought, and maybe I’ve misread or mis-saw pics where all the fan leaves were cut off toward the end of flowering. That’s why I was asking :p
 
#178
elusiveshame said:
That’s what I thought, and maybe I’ve misread or mis-saw pics where all the fan leaves were cut off toward the end of flowering. That’s why I was asking :p
Click to expand...
Some people go a little overboard. I take anything dying or completely drained of nutrients off at the end... but I do outdoor and have thousands of leaves.
 
#179
My new nets came in, so I set one of them up above the current tops:

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I have my tent partially opened as it was unseasonably warm today - nearly 80F, and the humidity was climbing over 65%. With the top of the door opened a bit, it’s dropped to 63%. Guess I’ll be getting a dehumidifier now rather than later haha
 
#180
Ordered a humidifier, which will be here on Wednesday. Small little 10" tall one. Supposed to reduce down to 55%, but we'll see. I don't think I'll need to use it often.
 
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