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Seed Sitting for 6 Years Sprouts!

I wouldn’t remove anything else other than those otherwise. Tuck before you Pluck.
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Seed Sitting for 6 Years Sprouts!

by DelaGrow · Started
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Discussion below · 234 replies
Page 2 of 12 · Replies 21–40 of 235
#22
hrtbrk3n said:
I wouldn’t remove anything else other than those otherwise. Tuck before you Pluck.
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Yeah I figured the cotyledons and 1-fingered leaves aren't really that value adding. I'll snip them today!

And yeah, otherwise not really planning anymore trimming. With her age, really trying not to stress her out too much!
 
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#23
Here's a good shot of just how stuck this shell was. Still hangin on for dear life 😂
 

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#24
Just posting another daily update:

Looks like she's feeling good after the bend yesterday. Also did some minor leaf tucking to try and get some light to the little guys underneath.

I plan to continue LST to try and work the main stem in a circular shape as she goes out.

I'm still really new to all this, so let me know if you guys suggest anything else in the meantime!
 

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#25
Question - So I've been doing some reading and saw some people saying that when leaves become "twisted" it can be a possible pH, heat or root rot issue. However, my plant was fairly bunched up early on, so I attributed the twisting of a few leaves to that. One or two almost look like they're upside-down.

Should I be concerned about the couple of leaves that curl/twist?
 
#26
Yes PH fluctuation or excessive airflow in one spot can cause that weird curling. PH is a lot of work to test in my opinion it’s not worth it unless you already rule out heat stress or wind stress. But usually heat stress will start browning and curling at the very edges of leaves and progress inward. If rest of new growth looks good I would keep monitoring as it’s probably environmental. 👍🏾
 
#27
hrtbrk3n said:
Yes PH fluctuation or excessive airflow in one spot can cause that weird curling. PH is a lot of work to test in my opinion it’s not worth it unless you already rule out heat stress or wind stress. But usually heat stress will start browning and curling at the very edges of leaves and progress inward. If rest of new growth looks good I would keep monitoring as it’s probably environmental. 👍🏾
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Okay cool, that makes me feel a little more at ease. Definitely knew pH could be an issue coming into this, but didn't want to get quite that involved for one plant (especially a plant that I didn't know would even survive 😂). I have a small oscillating fan in there now and I'll just make sure to keep moving corners every so often.
 
#28
In other news, she's developed quite the sweet skunky smell! My closet smells fantastic lol
 
#30
I noticed the soil level has dropped about 0.5-1in. Should I add any additional soil at this point, or just leave her be? Is there any benefit, or would it be a negligible difference?
 
#31
DelaGrow said:
I noticed the soil level has dropped about 0.5-1in. Should I add any additional soil at this point, or just leave her be? Is there any benefit, or would it be a negligible difference?
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Potting soil will settle down and compact after a few waterings. You don’t really have to add anything unless you can see “toproots”. I like to leave 3” room in my pots for top dressings for when they need food. This slowly cakes up and turns into a mulch layer keeping my soil more evenly moist for longer. Some people even add clay decorative pellets.
 
#32
hrtbrk3n said:
Potting soil will settle down and compact after a few waterings. You don’t really have to add anything unless you can see “toproots”. I like to leave 3” room in my pots for top dressings for when they need food. This slowly cakes up and turns into a mulch layer keeping my soil more evenly moist for longer. Some people even add clay decorative pellets.
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Nah, no top roots showing, but I'll keep an eye on it.

Is the main purpose of the top dressing to help with heat and moisture control of the soil, or for nutrients/feeding? I didn't plan on using any top dressing (mainly because I'm pretty ignorant on the subject), but am open to suggestions
 
#33
Top dressing is mainly for nutrients and feeding but I notice with my ingredients it also works as a heat/moisture layer I use any high quality compost and worm castings, pulverized basalt, and bokashi bran(EM-1) < lactic acid microorganisms that accelerate the breakdown of organic matter ;)
 
#34
hrtbrk3n said:
Top dressing is mainly for nutrients and feeding but I notice with my ingredients it also works as a heat/moisture layer I use any high quality compost and worm castings, pulverized basalt, and bokashi bran(EM-1) < lactic acid microorganisms that accelerate the breakdown of organic matter ;)
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Hmm okay interesting! I'll read into it a little bit more. I may be making a trip down to my local plant shop tomorrow! Haha
 
#37
hrtbrk3n said:
Top dressing is mainly for nutrients and feeding but I notice with my ingredients it also works as a heat/moisture layer I use any high quality compost and worm castings, pulverized basalt, and bokashi bran(EM-1) < lactic acid microorganisms that accelerate the breakdown of organic matter ;)
Click to expand...
What kind of n-p-k ratios are you using for your top dressing?
 
#40
hrtbrk3n said:
I also use west coast horticulture neem seed meal
6-1-2
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Man this gives me a lot to think about lol

This may be a dumb question, but how do you go about calculating total npk of your topdressing? So for example, ideally you said I'd want around 3-5-2 during veg. So you add your mixture of worm castings, neem oil, pulverized basalt, bakashi bran, etc, then how are you calculating your total npk?
 
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