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Foliar spraying after nutrient lockout

  • Thread starter Thread starter Tsigaros79
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Foliar spraying after nutrient lockout

Tsigaros79 48 Replies 11,407 Views
Page 3 of 3 · Replies 41–49 of 49
#41
MIGrampaUSA said:
Outdoors, absolutely ... I would agree with that.

Indoors, you can mimic that by turning your lights down at "early morning" or "early evening" hours. This gives the time for the vegetation to dry prior to being plunged into darkness.
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climatological parameters, heat radiation, air temperature, air humidity and wind speed affect evaporation(this exists both indoors and outdoors). in a room where the lights are off, air temp, low humidity and air circulation all assists in evaporation. turning off the lights shouldnt stop you applying foliar, getting your other parameters in check is the important consideration here.
 
#42
GreenGalaxyFarm said:
climatological parameters, heat radiation, air temperature, air humidity and wind speed affect evaporation. in a room where the lights are off, air temp, low humidity and air circulation all assists in evaporation.
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Except that lights off means a drop in temperature which spikes humidity. I run my grow area, the room with my grow tents in it, between 45% and 50%. Lights off inside the tents will spike RH as much as 5% with my setup. It would spike even more if a grower is not making an attempt to keep humidity down.

Now, during a Michigan winter, controlling the humidity in the grow room is a relatively easy task. The dehumidifier cycles and the dry air from the furnace helps keep it all down. There's days when RH is in the upper 30's/low 40's naturally this time of year.

However ... come Spring or Fall, that changes. I can be in the 70% humidity range without a dehumidifier... which is way too high indoors. The dehuey runs almost constantly and I'm frequently using mostly dehumidifier water to water my plants.
 
#43
MIGrampaUSA said:
However ... come Spring or Fall, that changes. I can be in the 70% humidity range without a dehumidifier... which is way too high indoors. The dehuey runs almost constantly and I'm frequently using mostly dehumidifier water to water my plants.
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make sure the coils are clean, the dehu can quickly become a breeding zone for bacteria and molds.
 
#45
MIGrampaUSA said:
Air flow air flow air flow.

Air flow is the secret to drying things out. Heat helps so does keeping your environment variables in the right range ... keep those leaves dancing in the wind 24/7.
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I have an exhaust fan of 125 cfm and an intake fan of 200 cfm that works only 1/4 of the time the exhaust fan works.I have heard that the intake fan should have the 1/4th of the power the exhaust fan has so i am trying to balance it by having the intake fan on only for 15 min.Will that provide a good airflow?
 
#46
Tsigaros79 said:
I have an exhaust fan of 125 cfm and an intake fan of 200 cfm that works only 1/4 of the time the exhaust fan works.I have heard that the intake fan should have the 1/4th of the power the exhaust fan has so i am trying to balance it by having the intake fan on only for 15 min.Will that provide a good airflow?
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You're the first who's told me that intake air should be set to 1/4 the power of the output. I believe in airflow airflow airflow ... intake/exhaust/oscillating fans.

I do have my intake and exhaust air balanced so the tent walls don't puff out or suck in during normal temperatures. However when the intake fan shuts off at night (and it does once it hits my set point), the exhaust fan remains running. I run my intake fan through a temperature controller. It stops forcing air into the tent once the preset minimum is reached and turns back on when it hits my high temp parameter I programmed it with. My exhaust fan runs 24/7 but it has a humidity sensor that will rev the fan if humidity hits the threshold level. I also use 4 pole mounted oscillating fans in my 4 x 8. I have 2 more for my 5 x 5 but I haven't installed those yet. Airflow does a lot of positive things from helping with pest controls to providing more ambient CO2 due to all the air movement. It's not just to help dry the greenery after a foliar feed.
 
#47
MIGrampaUSA said:
You're the first who's told me that intake air should be set to 1/4 the power of the output. I believe in airflow airflow airflow ... intake/exhaust/oscillating fans.

I do have my intake and exhaust air balanced so the tent walls don't puff out or suck in during normal temperatures. However when the intake fan shuts off at night (and it does once it hits my set point), the exhaust fan remains running. I run my intake fan through a temperature controller. It stops forcing air into the tent once the preset minimum is reached and turns back on when it hits my high temp parameter I programmed it with. My exhaust fan runs 24/7 but it has a humidity sensor that will rev the fan if humidity hits the threshold level. I also use 4 pole mounted oscillating fans in my 4 x 8. I have 2 more for my 5 x 5 but I haven't installed those yet. Airflow does a lot of positive things from helping with pest controls to providing more ambient CO2 due to all the air movement. It's not just to help dry the greenery after a foliar feed.
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You need to create negative pressure in your grow room.That's why the intake fan should run at less power than the exhaust fan.
 
#49
FrankL said:
Please tell me there was a bit of sarcasim in your voice..??
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i meant same like i didnt know they had different watering methods etc because coco has more air etc… no sarcasm meant. i thought you could treat soil and coco the same when watering and feeding. so yea lol im a first time grower and still learning. any criticism is welcome.
 
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