Auto in bloom showing spots on upper leaves?

[Zer0Tolerance]

How about spritzing the upper leaves with some cal mag mix? Would that hasten uptake?

I usually try to keep liquids off plants.

Yeah, it would hasten it, but it would depend on the product you use and I'm not sure about calcium application products via foliar feeding though.

For the lighting, it looks like you should be working up to 100% @ 18" or thereabouts. It seems that the T22 is a 100w light and that should give it about 750-800 . Unless, of course, the plant shows signs of light stress of your way to that power and distance.

 

[Budclarkson]

Increased the T22 to 60%.
Pushed the affected plant back in. Also started LST on the other tall plant.

@Glassdub this is what you have to look forward to.

LST on Wedding Cake

 

[Glassdub]

Increased the T22 to 60%.
Pushed the affected plant back in. Also started LST on the other tall plant.

@Glassdub this is what you have to look forward to.

My 2 Black Jack are photo though & seem more hungry than I'm used to, the PPMs were a little low but not crazy low (467) I wouldn't have expected deficiency this stage but even the slightly better fed #2 (628) showed a bit of deficiency though less extreme.

 

[Budclarkson]

My 2 Black Jack are photo though & seem more hungry than I'm used to, the PPMs were a little low but not crazy low (467) I wouldn't have expected deficiency this stage but even the slightly better fed #2 (628) showed a bit of deficiency though less extreme.

There’s something additional going on with mine with the 3-4 finger leaves. But hey it’s weed and still growing.

 

[Bdubs]

I have a similar thing going on on this plant I'm assuming it's just a little hungry I fed it's starting to look better, I personally would avoid excess calcium as I overdid that last time and that can cause serious lockout.

What happens is when you get too much calcium, you cause a deficiency in phosphorus because there isn’t enough phosphorus available and the plant is requesting more as the calcium levels are demanding more phosphorus.

 

[Bdubs]

Also, if you have root rot causing your 3 leaf growth, Ph will drop. You’ll leave the Ph range to have P and K available and then you will show deficiency that makes you think you need more calmag. So be careful just feeding off leaf signals. It isn’t always clear why your deficiency is showing. And in Flower, your plant wants P and K. If your pushing too much calmag, she is going to keep showing the deficiency and get worse if you don’t add More Phosphorus to work with your I create of calcium. If your rotting Ph drops, your also in flower and when your plant uses P and K, the byproduct is roots releasing acid. So you would have two forms of Ph drop. As the plant eats Phosphorus, she increases the Ph from release from the roots. This explains the balance of nutrients being used and the Swings we accept. So with that information. Calmag wasn’t the solution, it was to give it more Phosphorus or stop feeding calmag.

You’re feeding too much making the soil too wet all the time. Not crashing your grow. Just identifying all your concerns and how to address them the right way.

As you already reduced intensity (this wouldn’t be the problem anyways, a light leak or reveg would cause leaf growth like that. But if it were only light leak/reveg, you’d see 5 leaf growth after she recovered from an off lighting schedule. So you’d better find the blight leak if root rot is not your issue, but I bet it does.

 

[Bdubs]

phosphorus Deficiency. Not calmag. Yellowing accompanied by browning spots. They begin by showing yellowing and dark brown splotches, then they progress into burn and colors that would lead you to believe it is Calmag deficiency. But it is a Phosphorus deficiency and it is only there because you have an overabundance of calcium.

 

[Bdubs]

And single leaf growth is the intimate stress signal. Meaning she is stressed beyond her limitations. Any mis step from here is treading hermaphrodite territory. Any one stress can make her herm in her condition. So use extra caution moving forward. Limit all stress if you want to make it to harvest window.

 

[Bdubs]

Blue is your single leaf growth. Only sugar leafs should be single bladed.

 

[Bdubs]

So as you go up the plant, looking at the leafs. You can see the progression. Or where you began to correct her stress but then fell back into stressed. Where she grew 5 leafs, then up her grew 3, then 4 deformed and a couple 5 finger leafs. Then 3 again and on to make single bladed leafs. This is root stress progression. It has been happening for a while. Bad watering habits are main culprit. Either let dry out too long or too wet all the time. Or you have had constant dim light leaks the whole time.

 

[Bdubs]

If she never grew 5 finger leafs, it is genetics.

See if you keep a plant healthy, she will continue to grow more fingers up to her genetic ability to do so. If she ever reduces the number of fan leafs onward, she has a major stress or isn’t as healthy. As increasing finger count is a direct correlation to plant health. If finger count remains the same and stops making more, it is possible that the plant genetically is only meant to make that number and no more and is as healthy as she can be as long as she remains making the same number of fingers.

In my experience, when you have an even number of fingers, or missing a blade (deformed growth) it is the earliest signal that there is a major stress.

 

[Bdubs]

Now temperature and soil temperature also plays a big part here. But it all leads back to root stress. If your soil temps are high and you are always too moist, breeding grounds for bacteria and a root system that has no oxygen. As the root rot and pathogens require oxygen as well, they further steal oxygen availability to the roots. Exacerbating their inability to drink. Add high salt content from liquid nutrients and they further dry out and roots burn and die.

 

[Bdubs]

“As the plant eats Phosphorus, she increases the Ph from release from the roots.”

As the plant eats Nitrogen, she increases the Ph from release from the roots. All through veg and through 4 weeks of stretch the plant uses a lot more Nitrogen and this is why we typically see Ph rise in the growth stages. As you get into flower, you drop the amount of nitrogen but you still need it. Now, for soil you retain some so it may trick you into thinking cutting it completely out is the ticket and plants don’t need any. But in hydro it begs to differ and disproves that you need none, soil growers just need a lot less from buildup of it. And organic growers always have nitrogen if using top dressing feeding.

That is the balance. So do not fully cut out nitrogen in flower unless you want to have Ph issues. She will fade and use up available nitrogen to balance if she needs to. But you lose photosynthesis ability from losing green pigment (chlorophyll). So it is counter productive to cut nitrogen altogether. Always always, lighter green is less growth.

Maybe all this trailing info is for the Experienced Growers Only Enter Here thread

 

[Budclarkson]

@Bdubs I think you gave me a brain dump

I don’t think I have single blades where you pointed them out on lower fan leaves. I think it’s just some getting obscured in the photo. I’ll take a closer look with naked eyeballs.

If I have root stress which sounds possible can I dig some of the soil to get a visual without further making things worse. What can I do at this point? The bottom of the stem looked pretty good to me.

There is perlite in the Fox Farm mix and I add a couple of handfuls extra.

To check PH on the soil can I grab a little too soil, mix with water, let settle and ph test that?? How should I go about this.

I’m pretty good about letting mature plants dry out as I do the bag lift check.

As for light leaks, it’s a closed tent with just one bottom flap open cupped at the bottom and when the light is off it’s all dark and there is no light.

I don’t know about phosphorus deficiency. I have given the plant GH Bloom which has it. I’ve only added GH Nutes wice. This last watering it was a light mix probably half dose or a little less.

Also if you look at the beginning it all started with tiny brown spots. The yellow came in later.

 

[GNick55]

@Bdubs I think you gave me a brain dump

I don’t think I have single blades where you pointed them out on lower fan leaves. I think it’s just some getting obscured in the photo. I’ll take a closer look with naked eyeballs.

If I have root stress which sounds possible can I dig some of the soil to get a visual without further making things worse. What can I do at this point? The bottom of the stem looked pretty good to me.

There is perlite in the Fox Farm mix and I add a couple of handfuls extra.

To check PH on the soil can I grab a little too soil, mix with water, let settle and ph test that?? How should I go about this.

I’m pretty good about letting mature plants dry out as I do the bag lift check.

As for light leaks, it’s a closed tent with just one bottom flap open cupped at the bottom and when the light is off it’s all dark and there is no light.

I don’t know about phosphorus deficiency. I have given the plant GH Bloom which has it. I’ve only added GH Nutes wice. This last watering it was a light mix probably half dose or a little less.

Also if you look at the beginning it all started with tiny brown spots. The yellow came in later.

ya ignore what he said,.

 

[Budclarkson]

With the Photoperiods in the other tent looking great, and having had a few Autos have grow issues It just seems to me that Autos are just very sensitive.

For the future I am thinking to start growing more photos at least eventually once the Auto sees stash is depleted. I can clone the suckers too but still trying to get that right.

 

[Glassdub]

I have been using 2ml Pro-TeKt / 4ml Foliage-Pro / 2ml Mag-Pro, wondering if the Mag-Pro might be a bit high & causing lockout, using RO water and my one Chemdog plant is staring to show some blotching, last runoff was 6.3 pH 963 PPM a bit high but not insane.
Thoughts?

 

[RGWD0202]

I have been using 2ml Pro-TeKt / 4ml Foliage-Pro / 2ml Mag-Pro, wondering if the Mag-Pro might be a bit high & causing lockout, using RO water and my one Chemdawg plant is staring to show some blotching, last runoff was 6.3 pH 963 PPM a bit high but not insane.
Thoughts?

I’m not familiar with those products but from a quick review I’m not seeing any calcium in any of those. Have you been using any calcium? With RO not having any cal and no calcium being added it might be causing a cal deficiency which could be causing the brown splotching

 

[Glassdub]

I’m not familiar with those products but from a quick review I’m not seeing any calcium in any of those. Have you been using any calcium? With RO not having any cal and no calcium being added it might be causing a cal deficiency which could be causing the brown splotching

Foliage-Pro has Cal, I made the mistake of adding Cal last time overlooking this causing lockout, there is a reason its not in their line. I've used Mag-Pro & gone w/o in the past both with good results but I think the ratio is a little higher this time. Foliage-Pro is pretty much full spectrum.