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Are these too tall/skinny?

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Are these too tall/skinny?

WickedMichelle 62 Replies 7,684 Views
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Below 30% intensity you are in germination spectrum. Anywhere between 35-50% at 30” will give you best results imo. With that FC3000 300 watt. Of course, monitor and adjust as needed. Focus mode spacing as she grows and makes new nodes. If it’s super tight, you may want to reduce lighting, if super far node spacing, you can increase it a little. But in my experience, with a similar light rating as you, 35-50% at 30” in primo. The only question is, how tight of nodes do you want. Less intensity for a bit more spacing and higher end of that for tight knit node spacing.
Because once that’s set you won’t andjust light distance often and Typically you shouldn’t andjust intensity once it’s set and only move light if leafs show signs of light stress. And you’ll focus making sure she has the right nutrients for the lighting from that point.

The goal in veg is to give as much intensity as possible without burning. But a lot make the mistake of putting the light at 100% and all the way to the top of the tent. Inevitable continual stretch and wide node spacing.

Find it, maintain it, all through veg and into the first 3 weeks of flower, Then you can crank up intensity on her.
 
I would forget about all that PPFD noise. Learn to read the plant because she knows best, not some range or “optimal” number thrown on the web. Each plant is different.

This is a classic Back to the Basics situation.

If your understanding of stretch and lighting and its correlation is not clear, I wouldn’t venture into specificness of figuring out lux, ppfd, dli, and par. Thats advanced. It’s like trying to explain to someone how red spectrum wavelengths differ from white.

If you didn’t know how humidity and temperature react to one another, I wouldn’t be focusing VPD in my equation of proper temp humidity.
I’m not trying to overcomplicate things and we’re in full agreement about learning to listen to the plants since they’ll always tell you what they need.

I brought up PPFD because the closer or the more intense the light is can cause a seedling to stretch a lot or be squat with tight intermodal spacing.

Vapor Pressure Deficit or VPD isn’t a life or death thing but dialing your humidity vs temps in will lead to a better and healthier plant overall. That and 80% humidity is right at the upper level for a seedling. Damping off issues usually start around there.

And OP doesn’t have to follow up on anything I post, but this is an art where knowledge is golden. I’m sure that OP is capable of learning these things but you have to start teaching people or ignite their spark to learn somehow right?

That bro science of don’t worry about stuff expert scientists recommend and let it do its thing just leads to an inferior product but then again, this is my life’s passion and has been for 30 years so forgive me if I’m a bit technical lol
 
Below 30% intensity you are in germination spectrum. Anywhere between 35-50% at 30” will give you best results imo. With that FC3000 300 watt. Of course, monitor and adjust as needed. Focus mode spacing as she grows and makes new nodes. If it’s super tight, you may want to reduce lighting, if super far node spacing, you can increase it a little. But in my experience, with a similar light rating as you, 35-50% at 30” in primo. The only question is, how tight of nodes do you want. Less intensity for a bit more spacing and higher end of that for tight knit node spacing.
Very good questions... IDK is not the answer that will help but that would be the most honest. I do not know about node spacing and the benefits or pit falls of loose or tight.

I can say that I am looking to fill my 3x3 tent with the biggest plants it will hold and get the best yield from my two plants. Do I need more nodes so I can branch out and make a bushier plant?

I bumped the light to 40%, about 10-11" from light. I will monitor for the next few hours to make sure there is no burning.
 
No worries on the app thing. 👍

This is the kit I purchased. Even with the additive lights it was so much cheaper than the same size with AC Intinity. I wanted the AC as they seem to have a more complete system however the FC3000 lights had the best reviews out of all of the main brands out there.

I am happy with it so far. Their instructions are basic and customer service minimal. But the parts are good so far.
Hard to guesstimate but I would say try running it at 40-50% with a distance of 16” from the tops of the plants.

Just keep an eye on them since if it’s too much for that cultivar it’ll show you real fast
 
I like learning... it's ok to throw stuff at me. I may not understand it... but I can pick things up fairly fast. I am not afraid of a challenge. Although new and a lot can be overwhelming, I am not afraid and just want to be the best I can be. I will listen to everything and hope to learn enough to get a decent 1st grow. 👍
 
Hard to guesstimate but I would say try running it at 40-50% with a distance of 16” from the tops of the plants.

Just keep an eye on them since if it’s too much for that cultivar it’ll show you real fast
That's a lot of light for the seedling stage IMO.
My plants in veg only see 30%-40% light at 18"-24"
Seedling stage, 100-300 ppfd in my seedling chamber from the photone app and if I go anymore they will burn.

I'm not going to get into a debate about it, countless time on this forum we see people burning their plants because they are using the light at the level manufacturers recommend. Which 16" at 50% is close to what manuals say for the seedling stage.

To the OP, if you turn up the light be very cautious. Just watch the plant, if you start seeing your leaves getting lighter color or any yellow/brown spots on the tips then your starting to burn them.
 
This is the kit I purchased. Even with the additive lights it was so much cheaper than the same size with AC Intinity. I wanted the AC as they seem to have a more complete system however the FC3000 lights had the best reviews out of all of the main brands out there.

Can I ask where you found the reviews? I'm not saying it's a bad light and Coco for Cannabis gives it a pretty good review but a lot of the Amazon reviews, manufacturer website reviews, and video reviews are fake and people are paid to give them higher ratings. This is true for a lot of brands.
Customer service is another thing that must be searched before making a purchase, you could have the best light in the world but if the manufacturer won't honor the warranty when something fails, then it's not worth it.

My issue with Mars Hydro is they don't say Veg Coverage or Flower Coverage, they say core and max or personal and professional coverage, which can confuse people.
I also see that other brand lights that are bar style and 300w have a veg of 3x3 but flower is only 2x2, 400w-500w is usually 4x4 veg and 3x3 flower when looking at the other manufacturers.

I run the Spider Farmer SE4500 in my 55x28x80 tent, powerful light with even ppfd throughout the tent!
The Spider Farmer SE5000 would be killer in your 3x3!

Don't take what I'm saying in the wrong way please, from what I've seen the FC3000 is a decent light. I'm just saying be careful of what you see on the internet lol.

If you ever go AC Infinity, you can use your Mars Hydro light with the Controller 69. Your driver has a RJ11 port and with a $10 adapter from AC Infinity you can control the Mars Hydro light with the Controller 69, complete with schedules, advanced automations, Sunrise/Sunset, and much more.
I control 2 Vivosun VS4000, 1 HLG Scorpion RSpec, and 1 Spider Farmer SE4500 all with the ACI Controller 69 Pro.
 
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Don't take what I'm saying in the wrong way please, from what I've seen the FC3000 is a decent light. I'm just saying be careful of what you see on the internet lol.
No worries. I was on a budget, I needed the most value for what I had to spend. This kit was it. Sprider and Mars are very similar.... tent design, lights.... etc...

Their version of my kit... 100.00 + more.

Same design as my light (to a novice)

I added the additive lights with the money I saved which gave me an upgrade.

As for where I read all that... oh hell, I cannot remember exactly... I google, they give links, and I read. Maybe I just read what I want to justify my reasoning for getting what I get 🤣 🤣 🤣

I am about 400.00 over what I had budgeted. I was going to invest 2 months of my weed purchases.... Oooops!
 
PPFD measures your light for you. Proper ppfd will make plants grow the right way and take nutrients up at the right speed. To light light and they’ll grow compact and use a lot of nutrients and water. To little light and they’ll grow spindly and not take up nutrients or water as fast.

I use the Photone app. It measures ppfd and takes all the guess work out of growing for me when it comes to the light. For 5.99 you can pay to use the led full spectrum setting. Then you make a strip of white paper taped around your phone on the top covering the front camera.

This is what I use during all stages of growth. It’s fairly accurate for the price compared for a 600$ apogee meter.
 
Very good questions... IDK is not the answer that will help but that would be the most honest. I do not know about node spacing and the benefits or pit falls of loose or tight.

I can say that I am looking to fill my 3x3 tent with the biggest plants it will hold and get the best yield from my two plants. Do I need more nodes so I can branch out and make a bushier plant?

I bumped the light to 40%, about 10-11" from light. I will monitor for the next few hours to make sure there is no burning.
LST and a big pot
 
Because once that’s set you won’t andjust light distance often and Typically you shouldn’t andjust intensity once it’s set and only move light if leafs show signs of light stress. And you’ll focus making sure she has the right nutrients for the lighting from that point.

The goal in veg is to give as much intensity as possible without burning. But a lot make the mistake of putting the light at 100% and all the way to the top of the tent. Inevitable continual stretch and wide node spacing.

Find it, maintain it, all through veg and into the first 3 weeks of flower, Then you can crank up intensity on

Because once that’s set you won’t andjust light distance often and Typically you shouldn’t andjust intensity once it’s set and only move light if leafs show signs of light stress. And you’ll focus making sure she has the right nutrients for the lighting from that point.

The goal in veg is to give as much intensity as possible without burning. But a lot make the mistake of putting the light at 100% and all the way to the top of the tent. Inevitable continual stretch and wide node spacing.

Find it, maintain it, all through veg and into the first 3 weeks of flower, Then you can crank up intensity on her.
We absolutely need to adjust and actually raise the light intensity slowly throughout the veg stage and then blast it in flower.

There are some studies done by leading experts in the industry that are showing certain cultivars can and will easily handle up to 800 PPFD from day one of sprout and then some cultivars that use and photosynthesize at 1,800- 2,000+ PPFD (the sun gives us about 2,000 on average.

And as a matter of fact, cannabis is one of few plants that we have not discovered the maximum threshold of light intensity where they stop photosynthesis. Granted anything above about 1800 or 1900 PFD and then we run into the law of diminishing returns where it’s just not worth it to extend the extra energy for the minuscule gains we receive.

Also, if you have a good light that is intense like 1,000+ PPFD capable then the light distance matter less. I have grown some of the shortest west hybrid plants with a full spectrum LED light 36 inches above the canopy but set to full intensity and running about 900 PPFD from day one.

And just to be clear, I’m not trying to start an argument or say you’re wrong or anything like that. I’m just sharing knowledge that has been rigorously studied, elaborated upon, and peer reviewed about growing because I HATE bro science.

“Make sure to leave your plants in total darkness for 24 to 48 hours before the cut!” -absolutely useless

“ you can tell the difference of male and female seeds by the size and or how they look” - BS

And plenty other ones sadly.

The scientists that are at the razors edge of learning and discovering everything they can about lighting for cannabis is wrong. Yeah it works, But if you grow one plant under 200 W light versus another plant under a 500 W light, you’re going to see a remarkable difference lol
 
Low stress training
Low stress... I can use some of that 😉 🤣

Weather here today is going to be more summer like. 80 degrees F and high humidity. I have my fan at 40%, light at 40%, maintained a good temp/humidity ratio last night (approx 77 each). But it was overnight and we had thunderstorms so cooler and more humid. With luck it will be humid enough that I can turn the humidifier off and have it pull in naturally from the air intake that way I can boost the fan to pull out more heat. 🤞

My fan is pulling out the humidity that is being made from the humidifier so it almost seems pointless to run but it gets too hot without it.
 
Low stress... I can use some of that 😉 🤣

Weather here today is going to be more summer like. 80 degrees F and high humidity. I have my fan at 40%, light at 40%, maintained a good temp/humidity ratio last night (approx 77 each). But it was overnight and we had thunderstorms so cooler and more humid. With luck it will be humid enough that I can turn the humidifier off and have it pull in naturally from the air intake that way I can boost the fan to pull out more heat. 🤞

My fan is pulling out the humidity that is being made from the humidifier so it almost seems pointless to run but it gets too hot without it.
Did you not say prior that your humidity was about 55% without the humidifier?
 
Low stress... I can use some of that 😉 🤣

Weather here today is going to be more summer like. 80 degrees F and high humidity. I have my fan at 40%, light at 40%, maintained a good temp/humidity ratio last night (approx 77 each). But it was overnight and we had thunderstorms so cooler and more humid. With luck it will be humid enough that I can turn the humidifier off and have it pull in naturally from the air intake that way I can boost the fan to pull out more heat. 🤞

My fan is pulling out the humidity that is being made from the humidifier so it almost seems pointless to run but it gets too hot without it.
At this point if you can keep your humidity around 60%, then you will be doing fine, you're headed toward the veg stage and humidity is going to need lowered soon. I don't like my environment temp to get over 80 degrees.
My 10 day old seedlings are seeing 78 degrees and 55%-62% humidity, generally what I keep it at in this stage every grow.
 
Did you not say prior that your humidity was about 55% without the humidifier?
It is possible, I have made so many changes that I lost track. LOL. That may have also been without the fan on. I need the fan to lower the temp, fan sucks out humidity as well as heat. Today may be the day we turn on the AC which will need another adjustment. Glad I have the day off. 😁
 
At this point if you can keep your humidity around 60%, then you will be doing fine, you're headed toward the veg stage and humidity is going to need lowered soon. I don't like my environment temp to get over 80 degrees.
My 10 day old seedlings are seeing 78 degrees and 55%-62% humidity, generally what I keep it at in this stage every grow.
Right, if her temp is 77 and her humidity is 55% why is she using a humidifier, and she mention that the humidity increased last night yet,

I have had to run a humidifier at times, like when the relative rh here is at 25 to 35%.

Also she is on a budget yet went and bought all advanced nutrients whole line 🤷‍♂️, and atm she doesn't need any nutes.
 
Also maybe think of just having one thread instead of many that way people who are trying to help will have all the info in one place, plus having a pile of redundant posts and replies, just a thought.
 
Right, if her temp is 77 and her humidity is 55% why is she using a humidifier, and she mention that the humidity increased last night yet,

I have had to run a humidifier at times, like when the relative rh here is at 25 to 35%.

Also she is on a budget yet went and bought all advanced nutrients whole line 🤷‍♂️, and atm she doesn't need any nutes.
So my seedlings do not need much humidity? UG! Did I misread that early on? I bought the humidifier based on needed more humidity.

In another post I had about nutrients... I was understanding that they are very important. I wanted simple. Make a water solution and feed and water at the same time. Granted I am learning I do not need them at this moment.... I am sure they will be needed. I got the Ph Perfect which contains 3 different items, bloom, grow and micro. I got a few others for roots, buds and taste. Hype I know... I'm new.

Being new and looking for a good grow, I am learning some hard lessons along the way. As long as I can get a decent, potent harvest I will be happy.

As you all help me through this 1st process I am learning to do things different next time. But I will still have limitations such as space and storage and of course money LMAO.

I appreciate all the advice you all are giving. Thank you! 👍
 
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