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Decarboxylating question for those with the wisdom I need.

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Decarboxylating question for those with the wisdom I need.

ladychronic 24 Replies 5,861 Views
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#6
If you want to you can concentrate it by making FECO oil .. I just made a batch and also am waiting on some vegetarian gel caps so I can ingest without the mess and taste..

Making FECO requires either grain (preferred) or isopropyl alcohol. I use grain because if I leave a little in the oil (keeps it fluid) it is ok to ingest as opposed to the chemicals that may be left using isopropyl and not getting it all out.. I also use a tabletop distiller to remove the majority of alcohol and a water bath to remove the last without burning the oil -- I've done it.. Low temp is key to final removal of alcohol.

At the end your left with approx 4-6 grams of oil per oz... I put this into syringes and then in freezer..

Happy Cookin

MotaMan
 

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#7
I forgot to add that by using vegetarian gel caps you can micro dose with small 0 caps.. and the non flavor goin down may help with any after effects of his or her cancer treatments --- may God bless him / her..

My cousin is dying from lung c -- this past Xmas may be her last..

MotaMan
 
#9
I've had this discussion before -- decarboxylation occurs at 250 degrees and for a sustained time .. The heat in RSO or FECO oil ( I make a lot of FECO) is the heat used to extract the alcohol which is well below 250 degrees .. Alcohol boils at 172 - 174 and the THC molecule cannot / will not decarb at a lower temp no matter how long it is subjected to it. That would lead to the question is decarbing necessary ? Can the THC molecule get you high after ingestion without being decarbed?

It's like baking a cake at 172 degrees when the recipe calls for 350 -- no matter how long left at 172 the cake will not cook... And if you think I'm wrong pose the question to the PHD's here on THCFARMER -- the truly college educated -- not the Phil's , Hank's, and Darrel's.

Happy Growing
MotaMan
 
#10
Or the possible question to ask - What is the correct decarb temp and duration ? It may be a far lower temp / time than previously made to believe.

MotaMan
 
#11
I recently made some oil. I usually De-carb at 240 degrees f for 30 minutes. It seems to come out fine.

But I've read other temps also but that's just what I do. Put it in a mason jar u won't really have the smell.

I'd like to make some rso but not sure how yet.
 
#12
MotaMan4560 said:
Making FECO requires either grain (preferred) or isopropyl alcohol.
Click to expand...
FECO is made with high proof ethyl or grain alcohol. RSO is made using isopropyl alcohol. Understanding the difference is SUPER important as ethyl and grain alcohol are fine for human consumption. Isopropyl will kill you and shouldn’t be used unless you know what you’re doing.
 
#13
mancorn said:
FECO is made with high proof ethyl or grain alcohol. RSO is made using isopropyl alcohol. Understanding the difference is SUPER important as ethyl and grain alcohol are fine for human consumption. Isopropyl will kill you and shouldn’t be used unless you know what you’re doing.
Click to expand...

A bit alarmist there about ISO. It's only going to kill you if you're cooking it up in a small unventilated room and are in there for too long or you drink a bunch of it. It's GRAS, (Generally Regarded As Safe), when used properly. Small amounts left in oils won't have any negative effects and in some regards is a better solvent to use than ethanol. Rick Simpson actually used and recommended naphtha as it wouldn't extract water soluble fractions so you end up with a purer form of RSO that's not bad for smoking compared to nasty tasting RSO made with ISO or grain alcohol aka ethanol aka ethyl alcohol.

As naphtha is hard to get for most people including myself ISO became the standard solvent for home users for making RSO. I get my naphtha by distilling Coleman's Camp Stove fuel a couple times to remove the additives like rust inhibitors added to it which gives it that green colour. The purified naphtha is clear like water.

NaphthaRun


An excellent resource for extraction methods and so much more is GrayWolf's Lair. I have had many interactions with him when he used to be an active member in a couple of pot forums I frequented years back. I went back to school in my 30s to get a diploma in environmental chemistry worth two years credit in university chemistry had I been able to go further but life got in the way as it does for so many of us.

FECO refers to Full Extract Cannabis Oil and is made using almost any solvent including CO2 to obtain RSO. Alcohols like ethanol and ISO are polar solvents and will extract oils and water soluble fractions whereas non-polar solvents like naphtha, butane etc will extract mainly oil-based fractions like cannabinoids, terpenes and esters tho will also pick up unwanted waxes and traces of water soluble fractions in smaller proportions.

☮️
 
#14
ladychronic said:
I'm making oil for a friend who's got cancer. I didn't let the flower cool much after the decarboxylating process. Am I still going to have a good batch for them? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I've been making oil for many years and prefer to decarb after extracting the oil. Much less stink and with oven decarbing temp control is all over the place with most ovens. I have a multimeter that has a pretty accurate temp probe and when I have decarbed bud I will double wrap it in tin foil that's tightly sealed then jam the probe into the centre of the pot. Once the temp shows as 250F I start my timer for 30 min then shut off the oven after it beeps and allow it to cool enough to be comfortably handled before taking it out.

Decarb02


When decarbing the oil after extraction very fine bubbles will begin to appear around 235F and peak at 250. The oil should be stirred fairly often and once the bubbles have slowed to about the amount when they first started appearing it should be removed from the heat. If you wait until they have stopped completely you've gone past the point of max decarb and are converting THC into CBN. Using CBD only pot then you should stop even sooner as it breaks down faster.

Pot will decarb at lower temps even room temp but the process will be much slower. I have jars of bud that are years old and they are great for just eating a bud to catch a buzz as it's done some decarbing just sitting around. UV also decarbs it so spreading pot out in the sun will do it too but you have much less control over the process.

There is some research showing that non-decarbed pot or oil, THCa or CBDa, is as, or even more effective than their decarbed versions. In the case of THCa higher does can be used before 'greening out' occurs. Edibles are bad for that and the most effective fix seems to be a couple oz of booze. Any kind of 40%/80 proof or higher will do and it works quick. You'll still be stoned off your ass but now it's a party high and not a freaking out high. I don't drink any more but the wife has some Everclear stashed away she used to make vanilla extract from whole beans so would pour me as shot if I ODed on edibles. Her adult daughter accidently ate just one of my cookies a few years ago and was having a pretty rough time and after a bit of vodka calmed down then went and slept it off. She nor my wife drinks or uses pot so it hit her pretty hard. 2 cookies was my usual dose. Even heavy pot smokers will get clobbered by a bit too much edible pot.

I posted this link in here but in case you don't see it here it is again. Great resource for making oil and so much more.

GrayWolf's Lair

Good luck to you and your friend!

☮️
 
#15
How are you removing the bulk of the "solvent" ? Alcohol , whether ISO or grain boils at 172 degrees. Also isn't it risky to subject the pure oil to 250 degrees for 30 minutes -- I believe burning would be a probable threat..

I use a distiller to remove the bulk of alcohol from my tincture - set at 173 degrees , and then a water bath in a pyrex vessel to remove the remaining alcohol. If it's in a oven how can you monitor the bubbles ? If you're not constantly taking it out to check doesn't this prolong the process then?

Oven decarbing is easy if doing it in an enclosed vessel..

And the contraption pictured looks homemade as opposed to a distiller that I have posted. When playin with explosive vapors --- SAFETY first.

You can also freeze your bud/solvent solution ( this is using grain) then agitate / then freeze and so forth -- then remove the solvent. This process gives you a clearer product because it's not leaching alot of chlorophyll and other impurities.. And the original Rick Simpson used grain alcohol - find his recipe online.

Happy Cookin
MotaMan
 
#16
I usually evaporate it down to 1/4 of the original volume. My question is what happens if I keep evaporating? What I'm wanting is a concentrated oil.
 
#18
MotaMan4560 said:
I forgot to add that by using vegetarian gel caps you can micro dose with small 0 caps.. and the non flavor goin down may help with any after effects of his or her cancer treatments --- may God bless him / her..

My cousin is dying from lung c -- this past Xmas may be her last..

MotaMan
Click to expand...
🙏🙏🙏
 
#19
Ladman if ya evaporate all the solvent out -- all that is left should be just oil -- getting to this magic point without burning the oil and ruining all your hard work is your ultimate goal.. I take mine down to the last 1 1/2 cups , put that concentrate in a pyrex vessel and then "boil" off the remaining solvent (grain alcohol) in a hot water bath - I use a rice cooker for this ..

MotaMan
 
#20
ladychronic said:
If you're looking for a reliable Isopropyl Alcohol supplier, I highly recommend checking out South Chem Trading. They offer high-quality IPA, including 99% industrial-grade, and cater to various industries like manufacturing, cosmetics, and cleaning services.

Their pricing is competitive and they’re known for dependable delivery and excellent customer support. You can visit their website here: https://southchemtrading.co.za They've been a solid partner for many businesses here in South Africa.

Hope this helps anyone sourcing bulk IPA!
I'm making oil for a friend who's got cancer. I didn't let the flower cool much after the decarboxylating process. Am I still going to have a good batch for them? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
 
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