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mxvet747
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Why wont flushing with ph'd water remove salt build up? Should I get sledgehammer or Epsom salt? I could add some molasses for microbes
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You might let them dry back a little longer. In OF or HF, I don't water again until the pots are very light.Only water when first 2'' are dry
You could do it with Castile soap. The yucca is just a wetting agent and that's what you really need. Back in the day we did it with Dawn dish soap. You need a surfactant to make a flush really effective, some people add it to their rez no matter what.Why wont flushing with ph'd water remove salt build up? Should I get sledgehammer or Epsom salt? I could add some molasses for microbes
That's a chart is for soil grows. Because he is using salt based bottle nutrition you'd want to go with a hydroponic pH chart. Which is 10 below the soils. 5.5 to 6.5 is where bottle growers need to be.There are many charts of nutrient availability based on ph, some are slightly different than others but I always choose one that tends to be similar to most of them. While weed can perfectly handle 5,5ph the nutrient absorption will be altered and it might lead to nutrient umbalance in the soil, some nutrients block others from being absorved and others are absorved in bigger quantities than optimal.
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This is incorrect. If the OP is growing in soil with organic material/buffers you use the soil charts. The hydroponic chart assumes an inert medium.That's a chart is for soil grows. Because he is using salt based bottle nutrition you'd want to go with a hydroponic pH chart. Which is 10 below the soils. 5.5 to 6.5 is where bottle growers need to be.
Even if using synthetic bottle nutrients? The question would then be. . Why is he using bottled nutrients if the soil with organic inputs are in place?This is incorrect. If the OP is growing in soil with organic material/buffers you use the soil charts. The hydroponic chart assumes an inert medium.
Because unamended bag soil like fox farm etc only have enough nutrients for vegging. You either have to add organic stuff like bone meal, worm castings etc in the beginning or top dress at certain points or you could just water with synthetics.Even if using synthetic bottle nutrients? The question would then be. . Why is he using bottled nutrients if the soil with organic inputs are in place?![]()
So then it's a synthetic grow...not organic. Right?Because unamended bag soil like fox farm etc only have enough nutrients for vegging. You either have to add organic stuff like bone meal, worm castings etc in the beginning or top dress at certain points or you could just water with synthetics.
Like certified by the FDA organic? Probably not. And the FF is chelated. Micros always are and it's not necessary with macros.So then it's a synthetic grow...not organic. Right?
Organic as dry amendments added with the reliance of active microbes and fungi to break down the fungi for plant available nutrients.Like certified by the FDA organic? Probably not. And the FF is chelated. Micros always are and it's not necessary with macros.
Thats why I grow organically. I have a bytch (heh) of a time with pH. I spent hundreds of dollars on testers and solutions and struggled to make it to harvest. With organics its tap water straight from the fawcett. I don't even worry about the chlorine, there is enough microbes in my soil to rip that chlorine to shreds.Organic as dry amendments added with the reliance of active microbes and fungi to break down the fungi for plant available nutrients.
If that FF is chelated then not sure what the problem is other than the pH of the media. I'm really curious as to what FF recommended pH range is for their product. They're are two distinct recommendations, one for synthetic and one for soil. The soil is for those relying on the above mentioned action to work properly. The lower range is recommended for synthetic users whose bottle feed is meant for direct plant feed.
A quick Google and we get this ...
For most plants, when using FoxFarm fertilizers, including their liquid nutrient trio, you should aim for a nutrient solution pH range between 5.6 and 6.8.
Dam...that's a wide range.I'd still aim for that 5.5 to 6.5 especially since as you stated, the soil is obviously depleted by now so everything is reliant on the bottle feed.
Could also be just a simple lockout, especially if they don't feed or water till runoff. Get that runoff in . . It's important when bottle feeding.
5.6 to 6.8 basically covers the entire range of all the nutrients cannabis uses. They're just covering their ass. Rainwater is below 6 pH. The truth of the matter is both soil buffers, microbes and the plants themselves change the pH of the rhizosphere as long as the water going in isn't too crazy out of range you're fine.Organic as dry amendments added with the reliance of active microbes and fungi to break down the fungi for plant available nutrients.
If that FF is chelated then not sure what the problem is other than the pH of the media. I'm really curious as to what FF recommended pH range is for their product. They're are two distinct recommendations, one for synthetic and one for soil. The soil is for those relying on the above mentioned action to work properly. The lower range is recommended for synthetic users whose bottle feed is meant for direct plant feed.
A quick Google and we get this ...For most plants, when using FoxFarm fertilizers, including their liquid nutrient trio, you should aim for a nutrient solution pH range between 5.6 and 6.8.
If you have the microbe biology... Meaning the soil is alive, and in them small pots, I highly doubt it. That's why I'd treat it as a straight synthetic grow.5.6 to 6.8 basically covers the entire range of all the nutrients cannabis uses. They're just covering their ass. Rainwater is below 6 pH. The truth of the matter is both soil buffers, microbes and the plants themselves change the pH of the rhizosphere as long as the water going in isn't too crazy out of range you're fine.
Because unamended bag soil like fox farm etc only have enough nutrients for vegging. You either have to add organic stuff like bone meal, worm castings etc in the beginning or top dress at certain points or you could just water with synthetics.
Correct. To use organics and microbes correctly, I wouldn't use anything under 12 gallons or so. With 12 gallon pot you could probly go water only. Anything smaller and you will want to supplement it . Either compost teas ( if made properly) or soluble nutes.If you have the microbe biology... Meaning the soil is alive, and in them small pots, I highly doubt it. That's why I'd treat it as a straight synthetic grow.
True story. This it the only way Todd McCormick grows his stuff. With the Lush Roots Organic. Says he has pallets of it. No amendments nothing. Just soil.Also, if a grower is truly looking for a water only soil mix, they do exist ... at a much higher price point. Lush by Roots Organic is a very rich mix and many people can get through a whole grow with little additional nutrients added.
Key word is "little additional" because even Lush will sometimes run out of gas. However, at $30+ a bag ... I'll pass. I'll stick to Ocean Forest which I can purchase locally for a bit more than $13 out the door.
It's expensive ... but its good stuff. I used to use it when I could purchase it for $17 a bag. It's over $30 now locally. I'd have to make an hour and a half round trip to Grow Green Mi to get it cheaper ... at around $24 a bag.True story. This it the only way Todd McCormick grows his stuff. With the Lush Roots Organic. Says he has pallets of it. No amendments nothing. Just soil.