2.5 weeks to harvest, should I switch the lights to 11/13 or 10/14 to help finish?

[Chronic Monster]

Interesting discussion, never tried shortening the days, but interesting seeing everyone elses thoughts..

 

[Elite Nugs]

Interesting discussion, never tried shortening the days, but interesting seeing everyone elses thoughts..

My method was voted out. Vetoed!! 86'd..!! LoL.

 

[HipHopAnonymous]

My method was voted out. Vetoed!! 86'd..!! LoL.

I didn't think the idea was to crazy. Thats what happens when you flower outside, the days get shorter. But a ton of people agree leaving them in darkness for 3 days before chop is completely normal but that shit never happens in nature. Shit is wacky. :sign0065:

 

[Elite Nugs]

I didn't think the idea was to crazy. Thats what happens when you flower outside, the days get shorter. But a ton of people agree leaving them in darkness for 3 days before chop is completely normal but that shit never happens in nature. Shit is wacky. :sign0065:

Good point. Basically you just have to get to know the strains that you grow. I know when mine put on the most weight and when they start to slow down. I know which ones will flower under 14 hours of light and which ones wont. So like someone else said a page or two back.. its really just strain specific and how well you know the strain. For instance.. My Sweet Deep Grapefruit puts on weight very early. Im talkin.. when all the other buds are just fuzzy white hairs... my SDG is already developing chunky buds. By week 5 she's put on just about as much weight as she's going to put on. Then I know that if I drop the temperatures with her towards the last couple weeks, she'll turn a nice dark purple.

So if your looking to get the most weight out of it... then stick with 12/12 and just do the 2-3 days of darkness at the end. In October, when most plants are done outside, thats what the daylight schedule is at... 12/12. Sativa dominates will go a little longer and could hit the 11/13 or maybe even 10/14. Its just a little tricked that I tried and 2-3 days after dropping the lights down to 8 hours on, I see an explosion (very noticeable) in trichome production. So you sacrifice a little weight for more trichomes.. sounds like a good trade to me.

Anyway.. hit me up about that private message I sent ya. Otherwise I wont have anything ready for ya when you need it. Cant talk about it here on the open forum.

 

[HipHopAnonymous]

Good point. Basically you just have to get to know the strains that you grow. I know when mine put on the most weight and when they start to slow down. I know which ones will flower under 14 hours of light and which ones wont. So like someone else said a page or two back.. its really just strain specific and how well you know the strain. For instance.. My Sweet Deep Grapefruit puts on weight very early. Im talkin.. when all the other buds are just fuzzy white hairs... my SDG is already developing chunky buds. By week 5 she's put on just about as much weight as she's going to put on. Then I know that if I drop the temperatures with her towards the last couple weeks, she'll turn a nice dark purple.

So if your looking to get the most weight out of it... then stick with 12/12 and just do the 2-3 days of darkness at the end. In October, when most plants are done outside, thats what the daylight schedule is at... 12/12. Sativa dominates will go a little longer and could hit the 11/13 or maybe even 10/14. Its just a little tricked that I tried and 2-3 days after dropping the lights down to 8 hours on, I see an explosion (very noticeable) in trichome production. So you sacrifice a little weight for more trichomes.. sounds like a good trade to me.

Anyway.. hit me up about that private message I sent ya. Otherwise I wont have anything ready for ya when you need it. Cant talk about it here on the open forum.

I cant get PMs yet Im still too new here :wondering..but Ill let you know soon

 

[Elite Nugs]

I cant get PMs yet Im still too new here :wondering..but Ill let you know soon

Then text me on my cell. I gotta pull these out of the system there in within the next few days to make room for my new setup.

 

[crom]

What's up brotha? As far as your light schedule goes I personally would stick to a simple regimen of 12/12 for now. Wait till you have a couple grows under your belt and you know your strains a bit better before experimenting. Get the basics nailed down first. I don't know how Farmers are claiming the higher resin amounts unless they have done a side by side to compare. Anyone have pictures to back up the claims?

The 12/12 formula for bloom has been established for a long time. It is not a critical element in flowering actually. Well when it comes to natural light outdoors. Most strains need less than 12 hours of darkness to flower. If a cannabis plant were to not start flowering until the dark/light period is 12/12 then your outdoor plants wouldn't start flowering till the first day of autumn. Which is September 22nd this year by the way. Most 8 week strains will start to ripen between early September and late October, outdoors, starting their flower cycle August 1st. Now dawn and dusk add another 15 minutes of red light. Cannabis uses the absence of this spectrum, red, to measure the dark period. One way to initiate ripening is to give your plants an extra hour of darkness after the first 3-4 weeks of flowering. For instance if your strain is, let's say, a strain that will start flowering with 10 hours of darkness then you can change your light schedule to allow for 2 more hours of light/energy. This would add 17% more energy/time in which to produce sugars used for more and faster growth. BUT like I said unless you know what your particular strains "critical" light period is you can't take advantage of this approach without the trial and error process that could in theory put your plants back into vegetative growth OR make your female plants hermie. Both of which would affect your yield and your finish times. IMO I would let the plants tell you when they are finished. Yeah you could get a loop and check out the trichomes status, clear/cloudy/milky/amber, and use that to determine your ripeness.Some go by the pistils ratio of white to orange and harvest around 60% orange hairs. So you could use that approach until you have your loop/microscope.

As for flushing I always do a two week flush. You want to get the built up salts to be flushed away, and allow the plant to use up it's stored nutrients in the leaves. This is why your leaves will yellow and turn crazy colors when you flush. Some strains will purple when night time temps are lowered as well. IMO it doesn't add to anything other than possible bag appeal for purple bud fans. Personally I don't care if the buds are purple or not. These days the buds get processed into oil anyway. So I would stay on your 12/12 regimen and flush for 2 weeks with plain pHed water. I don't know how using a flushing agent at double the strength one week from chop will allow your plants to use up the last of the stored nutes in the leaves, but if you were on a strictly hydro system I would say that it is possible to get a decent flush this way. Point here is to not race to the finish line. Take your time and don't pick any buds before they are ripe. Also most strains will have a stretch period in early flower(weeks 1-3), then they go to the fattening up period until the buds are mature and resin is at it's peak production.

Now's a good time to get all your ducks in a row for harvest and drying/curing if you haven't already. Don't rush the drying process or curing process either! You spent all this time getting your plants to harvest, don't ruin your crop with a half assed dry/cure. You'll get the hang of it. I would just recommend getting a strain that you feel you like enough to run multiple times and get to know it well. You will have an easier time with your cycles when you know what to expect.

Last thing, keep notes of everything you do, so that when you need to do it again next run you know what worked or didn't work. For instance if you feed at 5ml/G and that wasn't strong enough then next run you can up it and meet the needs of the strain, allowing for a stress/deficient free cycle. Sorry to ramble on. Hope your plants are doing well.
:passingjoint:
Cheers,
Crom

 

[Elite Nugs]

I don't know how Farmers are claiming the higher resin amounts unless they have done a side by side to compare. Anyone have pictures to back up the claims?

Im assuming this is directed towards me, since Im the one who made the claim.

I use to have a perpetual garden that gave me a harvest every single month. So I've lost count as to how many times I've ran the same exact strains. I know them all very well, and I know that when I drop my light cycle down 2-4 hours, the difference is undeniable within the first couple days. Pictures have been posted for everyone viewing pleasure.

 

[Elite Nugs]

There's a few types of growers... Some that will take what they hear and read and grow by that for the rest of the time that they grow. Then there are other types who constantly tweak things and experiment, possibly sacrificing yield, or plants health, just to see if something really works. Then there's the growers that have been severely infested with spider mites for the past two years, that just cant seem to get a grip on them and their plants never get completely dialed in, all while trying to act like some superior grow master. LoL.

So in all Hiphop... Do what you feel would be the best thing for your plants. The next time I go over, I'll bring my scope. I'll let you use it till you harvest. I have a macro lens on my camera that I usually use to check trichomes, so I wont be needing my scope any time soon.

 

[motherlode]

I run 11/13 for my last 10 -14 days on strains I know when they are gonna be done

sometimes it really helps them fatten and ripen - other strains it dont do much for

 

[HipHopAnonymous]

What's up brotha? As far as your light schedule goes I personally would stick to a simple regimen of 12/12 for now. Wait till you have a couple grows under your belt and you know your strains a bit better before experimenting. Get the basics nailed down first. I don't know how Farmers are claiming the higher resin amounts unless they have done a side by side to compare. Anyone have pictures to back up the claims?

The 12/12 formula for bloom has been established for a long time. It is not a critical element in flowering actually. Well when it comes to natural light outdoors. Most strains need less than 12 hours of darkness to flower. If a cannabis plant were to not start flowering until the dark/light period is 12/12 then your outdoor plants wouldn't start flowering till the first day of autumn. Which is September 22nd this year by the way. Most 8 week strains will start to ripen between early September and late October, outdoors, starting their flower cycle August 1st. Now dawn and dusk add another 15 minutes of red light. Cannabis uses the absence of this spectrum, red, to measure the dark period. One way to initiate ripening is to give your plants an extra hour of darkness after the first 3-4 weeks of flowering. For instance if your strain is, let's say, a strain that will start flowering with 10 hours of darkness then you can change your light schedule to allow for 2 more hours of light/energy. This would add 17% more energy/time in which to produce sugars used for more and faster growth. BUT like I said unless you know what your particular strains "critical" light period is you can't take advantage of this approach without the trial and error process that could in theory put your plants back into vegetative growth OR make your female plants hermie. Both of which would affect your yield and your finish times. IMO I would let the plants tell you when they are finished. Yeah you could get a loop and check out the trichomes status, clear/cloudy/milky/amber, and use that to determine your ripeness.Some go by the pistils ratio of white to orange and harvest around 60% orange hairs. So you could use that approach until you have your loop/microscope.

As for flushing I always do a two week flush. You want to get the built up salts to be flushed away, and allow the plant to use up it's stored nutrients in the leaves. This is why your leaves will yellow and turn crazy colors when you flush. Some strains will purple when night time temps are lowered as well. IMO it doesn't add to anything other than possible bag appeal for purple bud fans. Personally I don't care if the buds are purple or not. These days the buds get processed into oil anyway. So I would stay on your 12/12 regimen and flush for 2 weeks with plain pHed water. I don't know how using a flushing agent at double the strength one week from chop will allow your plants to use up the last of the stored nutes in the leaves, but if you were on a strictly hydro system I would say that it is possible to get a decent flush this way. Point here is to not race to the finish line. Take your time and don't pick any buds before they are ripe. Also most strains will have a stretch period in early flower(weeks 1-3), then they go to the fattening up period until the buds are mature and resin is at it's peak production.

Now's a good time to get all your ducks in a row for harvest and drying/curing if you haven't already. Don't rush the drying process or curing process either! You spent all this time getting your plants to harvest, don't ruin your crop with a half assed dry/cure. You'll get the hang of it. I would just recommend getting a strain that you feel you like enough to run multiple times and get to know it well. You will have an easier time with your cycles when you know what to expect.

Last thing, keep notes of everything you do, so that when you need to do it again next run you know what worked or didn't work. For instance if you feed at 5ml/G and that wasn't strong enough then next run you can up it and meet the needs of the strain, allowing for a stress/deficient free cycle. Sorry to ramble on. Hope your plants are doing well.
:passingjoint:
Cheers,
Crom

Hey bro! Thanks for the input on everything. My plants are doing great, thanks. I think I have a Trainwreck cross of yours from March, Its 4 1/2 feet tall with big lemon sized buds. I will put up better pics as soon as I take them outta the tent. This whole grow was such a crazy learning experience, my second is gonna be much better as a result. A good 85% of my knowledge/experience came from you and your gardens. The idea of smoking something I grew from seed still blows my mind a little.:surprised What are your thoughts on 48-72 hours of darkness prior to chop? Do you believe curing increases potency, or just makes everything smell/taste/burn better?

 

[HipHopAnonymous]

I run 11/13 for my last 10 -14 days on strains I know when they are gonna be done

sometimes it really helps them fatten and ripen - other strains it dont do much for

Thanks for stoping by Motherlode. What strains have you seen it work best on?

 

[motherlode]

almost everything I have grown in the last 20 something years

didnt seem to do much for some hazes and durban that I no longer have

 

[HipHopAnonymous]

So in all Hiphop... Do what you feel would be the best thing for your plants. The next time I go over, I'll bring my scope. I'll let you use it till you harvest. I have a macro lens on my camera that I usually use to check trichomes, so I wont be needing my scope any time soon.

Thanks man a scope would be very nice. They are so dam frosty, I can tell they are milky white with my naked eye. But I do still have alot of white/yellow hairs, maybe 45-50% orange. Today marks my 7th week of flower and the beginning of my finale flush. :party0045:

 

[HipHopAnonymous]

almost everything I have grown in the last 20 something years

didnt seem to do much for some hazes and durban that I no longer have

Wow good shit, do you also use the "last 3 days in dark trick"? Do you chop before lights on?

 

[motherlode]

Wow good shit, do you also use the "last 3 days in dark trick"? Do you chop before lights on?

I do not do the 3 days in dark thing

first time i tried it in 95 all I got was a bunch of new white hairs on some of the strains and no noticeable difference on others

I tried it a few years back on some og kush - nothing

last harvest I left some nice small nugs on 3 plants (about 5 grams worth after it was dry) - left them in the dark for 5 days while the weed was drying in the room

no noticeable difference except maybe they got more larfy

never seen anybody shown any evidence this is anything more then a wives tale

none of the growers I know do this and my mentor laughed at me when I told him I was gonna try it

I chop when its time to chop - it usually is during the night cycle

 

[HipHopAnonymous]

I do not do the 3 days in dark thing

first time i tried it in 95 all I got was a bunch of new white hairs on some of the strains and no noticeable difference on others

I tried it a few years back on some og kush - nothing

last harvest I left some nice small nugs on 3 plants (about 5 grams worth after it was dry) - left them in the dark for 5 days while the weed was drying in the room

no noticeable difference except maybe they got more larfy

never seen anybody shown any evidence this is anything more then a wives tale

none of the growers I know do this and my mentor laughed at me when I told him I was gonna try it

I chop when its time to chop - it usually is during the night cycle

There is so much mixed info out there, seems everybody does something completely odd to the next person. I just remembered getting this magazine last month, http://i.invalid.com/kICow.jpg. They seem to think it does something http://i.invalid.com/Tb7sS.jpg. They dont go into a ton of detail I know, but this is how shit like this happens. :weed-sign:

 

[crom]

What's up ML? Yeah I don't do the last three day thing anymore. I didn't really see a difference. Seems that the plant will do what it would do under any low light condition, stretch.

Nah, Elite Nugs it wasn't directed at anyone. Just letting hiphop know that some will claim things that aren't proven to do anything. If something works for you then by all means do it. I just have an easier time seeing it work side by side. Just like if I were to see if an additive works or not. Add the additive to a plant or two and not the others and see what the differences are. I'm not a light schedule adjuster I guess lol. I believe that a good percentage of resin and bud size is genetic.

As far as curing goes it depends on your preferences. If you are going for smoke and are hurtin for bud then I would cure for at least a week. Bare minimum is two weeks. Your buds burn better, all the THC has become psychoactive, and the nugs dry to a nice smokable consistency. It's like wine in a way, the longer it soaks in it's own goodness the better it tastes and the better the effect. Some don't care much for curing and just dry and smoke. To each their own I guess. I don't feel that curing makes the buds more potent per se. I would think that you just gave the buds the time needed to convert all the THC to it's psychoactive state. Drying is science, curing is art. Just ensure that your curing/drying buds aren't in lit room. Light will further degrade your glands.

I found this online when looking up a way to describe it best:

Drying and Curing Cannabis…for the Most Potent Smoke

"Drying and curing cannabis properly will yield the most THC-potent smoke. When dried and cured improperly, potency can diminish substantially. The level of THC in a plant is determined by its genetics. Proper drying and curing will keep the THC level as high as genetically possible. It does not increase potency. A little background on what happens inside and outside the harvested drying plant will help you understand why proper drying and curing are so important to good quality dope.
Drying evaporates most of the 70- 75 percent water content in fresh marijuana. Drying also converts THC from its non-psychoactive crude acidic form to its psychoactive pH-neutral form. Once dry, THC-potent marijuana can be smoked and you will get high. Every THC molecule must shed their moisture content before they are fully psychoactive. In other words fresh green marijuana will not be very potent.
When you cut a plant or plant part and hang it to dry, the transport of fluids within the plant continues, but at a slower rate. Stomata, small openings on leaf undersides, close soon after harvest and drying is slowed since little water vapor escapes. The natural plant processes slowly come to an end as
the plant dries. The outer cells are the first to dry, but fluid still moves from internal cells to supply moisture to the dry outer cells. When this process occurs properly, the plant dries evenly throughout. Removing leaves and large stems upon harvest speeds drying, however, moisture content within the “dried” buds, leaves and stems is most often uneven. Quick drying also traps chlorophylls and other pigments, starch and nitrates within plant tissue, making it taste “green” burn unevenly and taste bad.

Taste and aroma improve when these pigments break down. Slow even drying – where the humidity is similar inside and outside the foliage – allows enough time for the pigments to degrade. Hanging entire plants to dry allows this process to occur over time, about 3-4 weeks at 50-60 percent relative humidity and a temperature range of 60-70 degrees F. (15-21 degrees C.) The large outer leaves also form a protective sheath around buds. This protective foliage shields resin glands on buds from rupture and bruising.
Removing large leaves and stems upon harvest saves time. This is what most growers do, because fresh supple leaves are easier to work with than dry leaves. When you are looking a manicuring 5 kilos, you make it as easy as possible! However, this process often causes uneven drying and keeps moisture inside the foliage. This is why it is important to “cure” the “dry” marijuana.
Curing lets the plants continue to dry slowly. The first week of curing affects potency in that it removes moisture within the bud evenly, so that virtually all the THC is psychoactive. Curing also allows buds to dry enough so that mold does not grow when it is stored. A well-cured bud will also burn with an even glow.
Note:
Rough handling and friction from fondling hands will bruise and knock off resin glands. Even with proper drying and curing, brutal handling of harvested marijuana will diminish THC content.

Drying

Here is one of the best ways to dry plants to retain the maximum amount of psychoactive THC. Cut the entire ripe plant at the base and hang it upside down on a line to dry. Try to keep plants from touching each other to avoid uneven drying and mold. Keep the humidity between 50-60 percent. Keep the temperature at about 60-70 degrees F. (15-21 degrees C.). The room should be relatively dark as light, especially direct sunlight, degrades THC.
A circulation and ventilation fan may be necessary to control heat and humidity. You can also use a dehumidifier to control humidity or an air conditioner to lower ambient relative humidity and control room temperature. Do not train fans directly on drying plants it causes them to dry unevenly.
Depending upon atmospheric conditions and the size and density of plants and buds, plants should be dry enough to smoke in about a week. Plants with outer “fan” leaves intact take longer to dry than if leaves have been removed.
Check for dryness by bending a stem. It should snap. The bud should be dry to touch, but not brittle. The bud should burn well enough to smoke now.
Once dry, carefully manicure buds by cutting large leaves where they attach to the stem. Leaving the petiole (leaf stem) can cause mold to grow. Snip off smaller leaves that show little resin so that buds a beautiful bud remains.
Freeze Drying
Dry ice is frozen carbon dioxide. CO” changes from its frozen solid to a gas without turning into a liquid, a dry (ice) process that is called sublimation. The atmosphere contains little CO2. Dry ice sublimes (converts) completely into a gas leaving virtually no liquid. It is dry.
When moist marijuana is enclosed with dry ice at virtually zero relative humidity, water molecules migrate from the cannabis to the dry ice. The relative humidity of the CO2 increases and the moisture content of the marijuana decreases. This process occurs below 0 degrees C (32 degrees F), preserving the cannabis.
Place equal amounts of dry ice and bud into a container. Dry ice on the bottom and bud on top. Seal with a lid. Make a few small holes in the lid of the container for excess gas to exit. Place in the freezer. Check the dry ice every 24 hours. When the ice is gone, the buds will be completely dry. If not dry, add more dry ice until cannabis is dry. Conserve dry ice by partially drying buds for a few days before enclosing with dry ice.
This method retains potency, freshness and causes very little degradation of resin glands by the bad guys – heat, light, air and fondling hands. The marijuana tastes ‘minty’ because the chlorophyll does not break down.

Curing

Even though the plants appear to be dry, they still contain moisture inside. This moisture affects taste and potency. To remove this excess moisture, curing
is necessary. Curing makes the bud uniformly dry and converts virtually all THC into its psychoactive form. Cut stems into manageable lengths – less than 12 inches (30 centimeters) – and place them in an airtight container. Glass containers with a rubber or similar seal on top are the best. Avoid Ziploc plastic bags, which are not airtight. Many growers also avoid plastic containers such as Tupperware, sighting the plastic imparts an undesirable flavor in the buds.
Enclose buds in a container. This creates a microclimate that allows moisture to “even out” within the buds. Internal moisture will migrate to the dry portions of the bud. Gently pack as many buds
in the glass container as possible without damaging them. Leave the jar(s) in a cool dry dark place. Check the jar in 2-4 hours to see if buds “sweated” moisture. Check buds by gently squeezing to feel if they are moister than they were a few hours before. Be careful when squeezing buds, they bruise easily. Most often they will be completely dry. If not, leave them in the sealed jar overnight and check the next day.
The buds will be a bit moist. Remove them from the jar and gently lay in the bottom of a paper bag. They can be stacked in the paper bag as high as 10 centimeters (3 inches). Close the top of the bag by folding once. Check the buds 2-3 times during the day to see if they are dry. Carefully turn them in the bag so that different sides are exposed. Remove when they are dry and place back into the sealed glass jar. Check them the next day to see if they are evenly dry and not moist again. If moist, remove and place back in the paper bag until dry. When dry place back in the glass container. Repeat process until buds are evenly dry.
If buds appear to have fairly low moisture content, you may be able to leave them in the jar and let excess moisture escape out the top. Simply open the jar for a few minutes every few hours to let the excess moisture escape before closing the lid again.
Check the container daily, leaving the top open for 5-10 minutes so moisture evacuates. After a week or two, it should be totally dry and ready to seal airtight. Vacuum seal the jar and place it in the refrigerator for storage. Leave it in the refrigerator or a cool dark dry place for a month or longer. The taste and potency will be tops! Refrigeration slows decomposition but remember, refrigerators have a high humidity level, so the container must be sealed airtight. I just checked the relative humidity in temperature in my refrigerator – 65 percent relative humidity and 5 degrees C. (40 degrees F). Do not place it in the freezer. Freezing draws moisture to the surface of buds, which can harm resin glands on the surface.

FAST DRYING

I do not recommend fast drying however here is a brief rundown on several methods for those of you who can’t wait.
Method One: Manicure fresh buds. Spread them out evenly and wrap in paper or enclose in an envelope. Place the paper or envelope on top of a warm object – refrigerator, radiator, television, etc. Depending upon heat level, buds will be dry in a few hours to overnight. Buds should be a bit crispy when dry. Place buds in an airtight container until they sweat. Follow curing instructions above.
Method Two: Cut up fresh buds and foliage. Place on a 6-inch (15 centimeter) square of tinfoil. Hold or place it over a 60-80-watt light bulb. Stir every 30 seconds. The weed takes 1-3 minutes to dry.
Method Three: Place cut up buds and foliage on a cookie sheet in an oven at 65 degrees C. (150 degrees F.) for 10-15 minutes. Check regularly until dry. Follow curing instructions above.
Method Four: Place cut up buds and foliage in a microwave oven. Power the oven to 40-50 percent and give short 5-10 second bursts. Check regularly until dry.
Method Five: Cut fresh buds and foliage into small pieces and place them in a glass jar with an airtight lid. Place several silica gel desiccant packs (the kind that come with electronic devices and cameras) into the glass jar and seal the jar. Moisture will migrate to the silica gel in a few hours. Remove the packets and dry in the sun. Replace silica packs until marijuana is dry enough to smoke. Find silica gel packs at auto parts or electronic stores.
Method Six: Peel stems so they plants dry faster. First remove large leaves. Peel off the outer layer of the stem with a knife. This exposes the inside of the stem and cuts drying time by about 20 percent.
Patient growers smoke no bud before its time!
Note:
Some of the information in this article was extrapolated from the “Frequently Asked Questions” and “Forums” found at www.overgrow.com. The following OG members were sighted in putting together this article: Apollo11Genius, BigIslandBud, Doctor Dangerous, Fatima, Fergetit, Flick, Glass Joe, HashMan, Leaf, Lock, Lord of the Strains, Mr. Beaner, PREMIER, Psychotropic Nomad, SC, and Twofingered. Thanks for the help!"

Hope this sheds some light on the topic brotha!

Cheers,
Crom

 

[crom]

High Times seems to be hit and miss with their info. I get annoyed reading it actually.

Snap that picture of the plant you got from me! I want to see what your talking about. Where did you get it?

 

[HipHopAnonymous]

Dam brother your posts are no joke! Thanks for all the info. I wanna dry and cure as long as possible (shit its already been 4 months). I think after drying to a snap, I will take a few buds from each plant and try them fresh. That way I can see/taste the difference when they are all cured and ready. At this point its just stressin me out, Im more looking forward to grow 2 with a Scrog set up :)