Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
What bloom boosters are good with the under current?
Discussion below · 84 replies
Page 3 of 5
·
Replies 41–60 of 85
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
Does anyone want some more pics. I can take some tonight when the lights turn on, today is the 13th day of flower.. and the skywalkers are getting big fast...
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
It seems my roots are not as white as before, is this normal in the UC
deacon1503
- Posts
- 1,224
- Reactions
- 924
- Joined
- Apr 13, 2010
- Points
- 113
Roots tend to start out bright white but typically turn a tan or beige, even a light brown as they mature. As long as they are still firm with no slimy stuff u should be good.
P
paulycali
- Posts
- 2,479
- Reactions
- 1,749
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2010
- Points
- 163
Whats the temps in your room?
Those taco's lol! look pretty cold. Them stems look purplish and thats a sign that the room might be to cold at night. They look like they could use some calmag for sure. Give em good dose. Dont think you can over do it on calmag imo. Give them some doses of that and check you night temps and your taco's should be on there way. Dont use calmag past week 4 since i believe it makes your meds not taste as good and smoke kinda hot. No one likes that
Definetaly diggin your room. Looks great! Keep up the good work and i hope those taco's turn around for ya and become happy healthy plants. Good luck and i hope the best for ya
Those taco's lol! look pretty cold. Them stems look purplish and thats a sign that the room might be to cold at night. They look like they could use some calmag for sure. Give em good dose. Dont think you can over do it on calmag imo. Give them some doses of that and check you night temps and your taco's should be on there way. Dont use calmag past week 4 since i believe it makes your meds not taste as good and smoke kinda hot. No one likes that
Definetaly diggin your room. Looks great! Keep up the good work and i hope those taco's turn around for ya and become happy healthy plants. Good luck and i hope the best for ya
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
Room temp lights on are 78-81 and lights off it stays at 72-74.. Hit them with a 5 ml per gal of call mag. I need to get a dehumidifier because now lights off is jumping upto 98% wtf. I guess they are transpiring alot
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
I'm having major problemos with my platinum og. They are turning yellow and drying out alot. They are flowering but not growing and turning very yellow. I think they need more nitrogen but not sure. Current ppm is at 550. My Skywalker want more but I think the king Louie and the platinum need less what should I do. They all have lots of crystals now but I'm fucked if I lose 4 or even 8 of my 12. Please help
Shady
Chillin' in the Shade...
- Posts
- 3,747
- Reactions
- 923
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2009
- Points
- 113
How about some shots at lights out Bubba kush? It will help tremendously for proper diagnosis of your girls when we can see their true colors. Gettogro was on point that you're using way too much CalMag with the DM Gold Line in the UC... HammerHead works well as a PK Booster in conjunction with your nutrients, just remember to reduce your base nutes when you use it. I like to be between 5.6 to 5.9 pH and have the RH around 50% at 80 deg for this early stage of bloom... :thinking
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
Shady, I will post some picks soon. I flushed and did a res change. They are bouncing back (most of them anyway). Next prob pm, what is the best treatment?
L
lucky14
- Posts
- 20
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2010
- Points
- 1
Hey Bud,
Thought this may help you with your leaf curling issue, Great setup by the way...
Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.
Too much marijuana fertilizer
The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigor and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.
High Heat
The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf dessication or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
Too much light
Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.
Over Watering
For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.
Not Enough Water
Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.
Regards
Lucky
Thought this may help you with your leaf curling issue, Great setup by the way...
Here are some common problems when marijuana leaves are curling.
Too much marijuana fertilizer
The most common cause of marijuana leaf cupping aka leaf margin rolling, leaf margin burn, and leaf tip curl/burn is overzealous use of marijuana plant food. In relationship to factors such as marijuana plant vigor and rate of growth. Leaf burn is often the very first sign of too much marijuana fertilizer.
A hard, crispy feel to the marijuana leaf frequently occurs as well, as opposed to a soft and cool feel of a happy pot leaf. Back off on the amount and/or frequency of using marijuana fertilizer. Too much marijuana fertilizer can also burn the roots, especially the sensitive root tips, which then creates another set of problems. Note - as soil dries, the concentration of the remaining salts rises further exacerbating the problem.
High Heat
The marijuana plant is losing water via it’s leaves faster than what can be replaced by the root system. The marijuana leaf responds by leaf margin cupping or rolling up or down (most times up) in order to conserve moisture. A good example is reflected by the appearance of broad-bladed turf grass on a hot summer day, high noon, with low soil moisture levels - the leaf blade will roll upward/inward with the grass taking on a dull, greyish-green appearance. Upon sunrise when moisture levels have returned to normal, the leaf blade will be flat. Lower the heat in the marijuana grow-op and concentrate on developing a large robust root system. An efficient and effective root system will go a long way to prevent heat induced pot leaf dessication or marijuana leaf margin curling. One short episode of high heat is enough to permanently disable or destroy leaf tissue and cause a general decline in the leaves affected, which often occurs to leaves found at the top of the cannabis plant. The damaged pot leaf (usually) does not fully recover, no matter what you do. Bummer in the summer. One can only look to new growth for indications that the problem has been corrected.
Too much light
Yes, it’s true, you can give your marijuana plant too much light. Cannabis does not receive full sun from sunrise to sunset in its natural state. It is shaded or given reduced light levels because of adjacent plant material, cloudy conditions, rain, dust, twilight periods in the morning and late afternoon, and light intensity changes caused by a change in the seasons. Too much light mainly serves to bleach out and destroy chlorophyll as opposed to causing marijuana leaf cupping, but it often goes hand-in-hand with high heat for indoor marijuana growers. Turn down the time when the lights on in your marijuana grow room. If you're using a 24 hr cycle, turn it down to 20 hrs. Those on 18 - 6 marijuana growth cycle can turn their lights down two or three hours. Too much light can have many adverse effects on marijuana plants. Concentrate on developing/maintaining an efficient and robust root system.
Over Watering
For marijuana growers using soil, this practice only serves to weaken the root system by depriving the roots of proper gas exchange. The marijuana plants roots are not getting enough oxygen which creates an anerobic condition inducing root rot and root decline with the end result showing up as leaf stress, stunted growth, and in severe cases, death. Over watering creates a perfect environment for damp-off disease, at, or below the soil line. Many times marijuana growers believe their cannabis plant is not getting enough marijuana fertilizers (which it can't under such adverse conditions), so they add more marijuana fertilizers. Making the problem worst. Not better. Often problem 1 and 4 go together. Too much marijuana fertilizer combined with too much water. Creating plenty of marijuana plant problems.
Not Enough Water
Not only is the marijuana plant now stressed due to a low supply of adequate moisture, but carbohydrate production has been greatly compromised (screwed up). Step up the watering frequency, and if need be, organic marijuana growers may need to water from the bottom up until moisture levels reach a norm throughout the medium. One of the best methods in determining whether a marijuana plant requires watering is lifting the pots. The pots should be light to lift before a water session. After watering the marijuana plants lift the pots to get an understanding how heavy they've become fully watered. If the pot feels light to the lift - it’s time to water. Don’t wait until the soil pulls away from the side of the pot before watering. And of course, leach, once in a while to get rid of excess salts. These are the five most common problems marijuana growers encounter when growing cannabis. Correcting the problems early will save the marijuana plants, but may reduce overall yield. With practice and experience these problems are easily overcome which will then enable the marijuana grower to produce fantastic marijuana plants. With heavy yields.
Regards
Lucky
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
Thanks lucky!!! Things are really looking good after the flush I did and they are blowing up fast. Still fighting the pm but all in all they are 100% better, not 100% yet put 100% better lol. Really frosty and lots of buds!!!! Don't know if anybody is following but I will try and get some pics after lights out on Monday since I have to work tomorrow.
L
lucky14
- Posts
- 20
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2010
- Points
- 1
No worries bud, personally I love your setup and I'm sure a lot of people are following so definitely keep the updates coming.
On the subject of pm there are a few good methods of prevention and minimising pm issues(Google is your friend) including sulpher burners but I don't know if your too far gone into flower to consider using the sulpher option as you don't want to ruin the taste of your buds.
What do you reckon was the issue of you leaves curling in the end, did you narrow it down to anything specific?
Out of curiosity... Why do you run the air cooled reflectors but without pulling the hot air through them, I'm a big fan an believer in air cooled shades myself but the only downside is that tests show you can lose around 5%-10% through the glass, so my point is it seems strange that you have them set up but aren't using them to there full potential, I guess you don't have any heat issues so that's why you haven't hooked them up.
Would it not be a good idea to remove the glass part for the time being so you don't suffer any lumen loss and you can always reconnect them when you need to vent through them, Are they the blockbuster shades by sun system?
On the subject of pm there are a few good methods of prevention and minimising pm issues(Google is your friend) including sulpher burners but I don't know if your too far gone into flower to consider using the sulpher option as you don't want to ruin the taste of your buds.
What do you reckon was the issue of you leaves curling in the end, did you narrow it down to anything specific?
Out of curiosity... Why do you run the air cooled reflectors but without pulling the hot air through them, I'm a big fan an believer in air cooled shades myself but the only downside is that tests show you can lose around 5%-10% through the glass, so my point is it seems strange that you have them set up but aren't using them to there full potential, I guess you don't have any heat issues so that's why you haven't hooked them up.
Would it not be a good idea to remove the glass part for the time being so you don't suffer any lumen loss and you can always reconnect them when you need to vent through them, Are they the blockbuster shades by sun system?
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
Yes blockbuster. Unfortunately I can't run them air cooled because of neighbors and I leave the glass on incase of a build exploding... It might not help but safety first. I think the leaf curl was from the nutrients and ph plus humidity probs. I have three different strains and the skywalker was doing very well and could have used more ppm but the others couldn't handle it. I got a humidifier and a dehumidifier and getting a second one today. I'm getting ready to do a res change tomorrow and bump it up to 550 ppm, I hope they can take it. My hydro store can't get any sulfur!! Pm sucks and I raised the temp lowered the humidity but I heard pm is like herpes it just keeps giving. I also think the pm was in the skywalker
L
lucky14
- Posts
- 20
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2010
- Points
- 1
Ahh I see that makes sense why they aren't connected up.
Have a read of the following for your pm issues, I'm sure you can also spray a weak solution of milk which combats pm just make sure you get the dosage correct so you don't do any damage...
Contrary to popular belief, powdery mildew generally does not require free water to establish and grow. Infection can actually occur on dry leaves. Warm temperatures and shady conditions encourage the fungus to grow and spread. However, the spores and mycelium are sensitive to extreme heat and direct sunlight.
The optimum temperature for infection is between 68 to 77 degrees F and relative humidity between 40 to 100% is sufficient for the spores to germinate. Low, diffuse light also seems to favor powdery mildew development. The mildew can spread rapidly since the disease cycle can be completed in as little as 72 hours. However, it commonly takes 7-10 days from the time of infection to the development of symptoms and secondary spore production.
Quote:
Plant in full sunlight in a well-drained area.
Do not crowd plants. Air flow and ventilation will discourage mildew growth.
Powdery mildew thrives where high rates of nitrogen have been used. High nitrogen promotes tender leaf formation, causing dense stands that are more susceptible to infections. Adequately fertilize but avoid stimulating succulent growth. Organic fertilizers or slow-release formulations of lawn fertilizers are good choices.
Prune infected plants to get rid of infected parts and increase airflow. If the infestations are severe, remove and destroy the plants that are infected.
Disinfect your pruning tool in a bleach solution of one part household bleach to four parts water after each cut.
Watering plants in the morning gives the plants the rest of the day to dry off, discouraging establishment of diseases, including powdery mildew.
Quote:
Organic Sprays
Sulfur is highly effective against powdery mildew if used in a protectant program with a minimum of 7 to 14 days between applications. Garlic naturally contains high levels of sulfur and a few cloves crushed in water can be used to make a homemade spray. Apply a sulfur-based fungicide at first evidence of mildew and repeat applications as necessary. Proper timing of fungicide applications is critical to successful control so make sure to begin at the first sign of the disease.
Another option is to spray once a week with a solution of baking soda. Baking soda increases the surface pH of the leaf making it unsuitable for the growth of powdery mildew spores. Be sure to spray the undersides of leaves as well as the upper surfaces when using any of these sprays.
Here's a recipe to make your own spray:
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 quart water
A few drops of liquid soap
Before treating your plants, test the spray on a few leaves to make sure they are not too sensitive.
There is a product on the market called "Serenade" which is OMRI certified organic and is effective
against PM and Botrytis.
Quote:
If needed during the growing season, begin fungicide applications when the first white patches are noticed. Repeat as indicated on the product label during cool humid weather. Some products with a broad range of applications for outdoor ornamentals include products containing: Bacillus Subtilis, Jojoba or Neem oil, potassium bicarbonate, sulfur or lime sulfur. Some of these products may also be used to treat powdery mildew infections in the vegetable garden. Other products may also be available, so refer to the appropriate pest management guidelines or contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for more information.
Here is the article it came from, plenty of good advice for combating pm
Have a read of the following for your pm issues, I'm sure you can also spray a weak solution of milk which combats pm just make sure you get the dosage correct so you don't do any damage...
Contrary to popular belief, powdery mildew generally does not require free water to establish and grow. Infection can actually occur on dry leaves. Warm temperatures and shady conditions encourage the fungus to grow and spread. However, the spores and mycelium are sensitive to extreme heat and direct sunlight.
The optimum temperature for infection is between 68 to 77 degrees F and relative humidity between 40 to 100% is sufficient for the spores to germinate. Low, diffuse light also seems to favor powdery mildew development. The mildew can spread rapidly since the disease cycle can be completed in as little as 72 hours. However, it commonly takes 7-10 days from the time of infection to the development of symptoms and secondary spore production.
Quote:
Plant in full sunlight in a well-drained area.
Do not crowd plants. Air flow and ventilation will discourage mildew growth.
Powdery mildew thrives where high rates of nitrogen have been used. High nitrogen promotes tender leaf formation, causing dense stands that are more susceptible to infections. Adequately fertilize but avoid stimulating succulent growth. Organic fertilizers or slow-release formulations of lawn fertilizers are good choices.
Prune infected plants to get rid of infected parts and increase airflow. If the infestations are severe, remove and destroy the plants that are infected.
Disinfect your pruning tool in a bleach solution of one part household bleach to four parts water after each cut.
Watering plants in the morning gives the plants the rest of the day to dry off, discouraging establishment of diseases, including powdery mildew.
Quote:
Organic Sprays
Sulfur is highly effective against powdery mildew if used in a protectant program with a minimum of 7 to 14 days between applications. Garlic naturally contains high levels of sulfur and a few cloves crushed in water can be used to make a homemade spray. Apply a sulfur-based fungicide at first evidence of mildew and repeat applications as necessary. Proper timing of fungicide applications is critical to successful control so make sure to begin at the first sign of the disease.
Another option is to spray once a week with a solution of baking soda. Baking soda increases the surface pH of the leaf making it unsuitable for the growth of powdery mildew spores. Be sure to spray the undersides of leaves as well as the upper surfaces when using any of these sprays.
Here's a recipe to make your own spray:
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 quart water
A few drops of liquid soap
Before treating your plants, test the spray on a few leaves to make sure they are not too sensitive.
There is a product on the market called "Serenade" which is OMRI certified organic and is effective
against PM and Botrytis.
Quote:
If needed during the growing season, begin fungicide applications when the first white patches are noticed. Repeat as indicated on the product label during cool humid weather. Some products with a broad range of applications for outdoor ornamentals include products containing: Bacillus Subtilis, Jojoba or Neem oil, potassium bicarbonate, sulfur or lime sulfur. Some of these products may also be used to treat powdery mildew infections in the vegetable garden. Other products may also be available, so refer to the appropriate pest management guidelines or contact your local Cooperative Extension Office for more information.
Here is the article it came from, plenty of good advice for combating pm
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
Much thanks lucky. I added extra fans and am treating with mildew cure or something along that name. I will upload some pics late tonight after work.
L
lucky14
- Posts
- 20
- Joined
- Aug 17, 2010
- Points
- 1
Hey Bubba K, How you getting on with treating the Pm with your cure? any picture progress updates?
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
Bubba kush
- Posts
- 262
- Reactions
- 153
- Joined
- Jul 17, 2011
- Points
- 43
Page 3 of 5
·
Replies 41–60 of 85